BLACK+DECKER PUSH WIRE® Under Cabinet Lighting Kit

[@-byko-8423]

I love to read people's faces. After being married, I feel like a superhero. Guy looked very skeptical when he said that tape "would probably last a lifetime." I'm definitely doing this though...looks fairly straightforward. Thanks 👍

[@mohamedfawzy5453]

Thank you for the easy demonstration. I got this today and could not be happier with the result!

[@petercarey6883]

I must piggy-back if you will, off of other comments in that I've tried several different under cabinet lighting setups and NONE provided me with any degree of satisfaction. B & D has knocked this kit out of the park! Well done!👍👍

[@PureOpticsLED]

That's great to hear! We appreciate the feedback!

[@jeffdowns2307]

I have installed lots of different under cabinet light systems. This is a positive step in better lighting options

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hey we appreciate that, Jeff!

[@marsdahustler]

Wow finally created a REAL solution for my kitchen!!!

[@LewHarriman]

I love the 3-hr timer! Very nice.

[@PureOpticsLED]

That's great to hear!

[@carlindurfee7566]

The only thing is my kitchen is split so I am undecided on what to do? Should I use this for half and then use the battery powered ones for the opposite wall it’s only a few cabinets

[@chuckspencer2703]

This looks like the best system I have seen yet.

[@PureOpticsLED]

That's great to hear!

[@gmoney1961]

Can I keep them on longer than 3 hours?

[@Dianalynn62]

This is great...but what do you do if you have a window in between your cabinets? I have found NO ONE on KZbin that addressed this issue...😐

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi Diana, this is exactly the reason for this product. You cut the connecting wires (jumper wires) on-site from the 25’ jumper wire spool. Connecting wires can be cut 2” - 120”. You simply run the connecting jumper wire above or below the window, most likely hugging the window trim to the wire is hidden.

[@adamhapper6706]

Do they have push wire kits that are alexa compliant?

[@1voiceofstl]

best part is the small holes to drill for the push wire connection.

[@futbol1972]

Do this come I'm color and do they come with a control remote?

[@nycsnyper]

I love the lights only one problem they can't be used on a switched outlet you have to use the motion controls to turn them on every time. That box should be updated to have an additional feature to power on when power is applied to the outlet so they can be used in any configuration. That's the only issue I have with the product.

[@laurencekeller1158]

I need to release the wire from one of my lights. The instructions say to use the included tool (that was not included with lights, wire, or power supply that I purchased) to press, I assume, into the three small holes under the end cap. Where can I get the tool for this? I've tried stiff wire, but it's not releasing. Thanks.

[@Mrfocuszx3]

I have a large gap between cabinets with a sink and a window. How would I get the wire across that gap?

[@PureOpticsLED]

If you have crown molding to your ceiling, then you could run the wire up through the ceiling then back down. Or if you have curtains over the top of the window, you could hide the wire behind the curtains. Last recommendation is to follow the contour of your window trim and try and hide the wire as best as possible secured to your window trim. Use the wire clips to help with this. Remember that you can cut a wire any length so you have options! Good Luck!

[@bobbray9666]

Cheaper and better lighting with COB LED tape lights. The COB LED lights are cheaper, $27 for 5 meter tape light roll, the DC power driver is cheaper and if you need a jumper wire, thermostat wire works well. There are numerous tape light channels and I like the 45 degree ones with or without a cover. This would give you a continuous light source without little light spots reflecting off your shiny counter. This setup costs $270 before tax and shipping. The COB LED tape lights with driver and covers cost $73 at Amazon. I've used SMD 5050 and SMD 2835 but the newer COB lights are fantastic. Note, always find the CRI (Color rendering index) number. The higher (CRI 90+) are the most color accurate. I prefer 2700 to 3000k color for under cabinet lights. I couldn't find the CRI or lumens for these B&D lights but the lumens looked OK in this vid. I also prefer to solder jumper wires to LED strips as I've never had good luck with tape light connectors. I'm sure there is no issue with these B&D push connectors.

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi there, if you prefer tape light, that’s great. Nothing wrong with it. However, our patented system is easier to install, class II compliant for in-walls or under cabinets, gives you flexibility to install split or in-line, offers endless possibilities to connect lights for under cabinets, jumping stoves, sinks, windows from 2” - 120” long jumper wires, offers a hands-free sensor, permanent (screws) or fast (3M tape) install methods, and is preferred 50:1 over tape light installations by professional electricians.

[@bobbray9666]

@@PureOpticsLED "...preferred 50:1 over tape light installations by professional electricians." Yes, the B&D lights are easier to install and pros only want fast installs because they make more money. I'd rather save $200 (73% savings) and spend an extra ~15 minutes. Others may just want the easy install. I've installed around 2000' of tape lights with few issues and I like the continuous lighting with options of RGB for certain applications. I'm sure your product is nice but I wanted to point out alternatives, which I prefer. If you use a good Meanwell driver, you might have fewer power issues than using the cheapest driver you can find. I plan on installing LED tape lights in a couple of tray ceilings and will use these also for under cabinet lights. Your lights look good but you charge too much for your driver. What CRI are these and what voltage are the drivers?

[@ddyeo503]

Oh by the way, what are Wago connectors?

[@ralph95]

Will these stay on over three hours? Or do you have to go back every three hours and turn them back on? Your information is not very clear

[@video4newt]

How would you go across a large gap? My range does not have cabinets above. Great job.

[@PureOpticsLED]

You can cut the Class II compliant 20ga jumper wire any length! We recommend finding the best places to drill small holes to run the wire, then simply cut to length.

[@bp4170]

Looks awesome. What about colors?

[@PureOpticsLED]

We do have a tool-free line that is color-changing. You can find it here: pureopticsled.com/3-bar-color-changing-led-lighting-kit-6.html

[@lisawalters5482]

Wow. I need these.

[@leithashowers4420]

Awesome I’m going to check into the system

[@PureOpticsLED]

Great! Let us know what you think.

[@ryanferguson1579]

Where did the long wire that went up and over the microwave terminate? On my viewing left side I know it took power to the other side of the oven. But, on the side with the hands free dimmer where did you terminate that wire?

[@PureOpticsLED]

In the hands-free dimmer / control box. The control box has two inputs for wires so you can have the freedom to place that control box and power adapter anywhere in the kitchen layout.

[@nickmccollum1196]

i connected one light to power and turned it on to test i did the connection right. it started smoking and now won't turn on. was that too much power to one light? or did i have a faulty light?

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi Nick, you can connect only one light, or up to 6 lights (24w adapter) or 12 lights (48w adapter). The connecting jumper wires have three separate solid core wires inside them. If the copper wires touch each-other while powered it might blow the safety fuse. You can certainly check after each light to ensure they are working properly, however do not cut and connect the wires while powered on!

[@SpynCycle57]

How close to the motion sensor does your hand need to be? Will the lights be turning on/off every time I move something on the counter?

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi Darrell, about 2” is the distance. It will not go ON/OFF unless you get within 2” of it.

[@ogatkinson6274]

Very cool, I think I could do this. Thanks

[@PureOpticsLED]

Awesome, let us know if you try it out!

[@ogatkinson6274]

@@PureOpticsLED Might be some time, renewing my kitchen

[@richoneill5619]

Do these have to be plugged in to an outlet?

[@richoneill5619]

Never mind

[@wandakowalski7063]

Potentially helpful video but you didn’t mention what kind of wire used. And really, the frantic background music is totally unnecessry!

[@timknight6258]

The wire is part of the Black and Decker equipment: Item LEDUC-25JUMP. All available at Lowes.

[@PureOpticsLED]

It uses 20 gauge, class II compliant solid core wiring. Class II compliant means it can be wired inside walls, if necessary. You can find the jumper wire spools here: pureopticsled.com/push-wire-25-jumper-wire-spool.html

[@harryl7946]

@@timknight6258 going to lowes now!!

[@harryl7946]

True the music distracts from the content. Maybe 🤔 a little. Or I could turn off my aides 🤣

[@edmilam]

Would you recommend the cool or warm lighting for under the cabinets in a kitchen?

[@alex_rodriguez777]

depends on your existing lighting I’d say go with what you already have in your kitchen to match

[@warthogA10]

Hold a paper cup under where you're drilling, saves time on clean up. Also, would be cool to see another version of these with a wireless remote control, so you can do all these settings and even select just a few lights to be on at a time... I want a cut if that idea is used 😉 I could use the $$$

[@PureOpticsLED]

We'll pass the idea on to our Product team!

[@doughill5487]

Just plug them them into a smart plug. Though I guess that doesn't get you anything other than on/off.....

[@farrelladams623]

My on/off switch on the lamps does not work, nor does the dimmer settings. What did I do wrong??? The on/off feature on the hands free sensor works.

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi Farrell, you most likely have one of the jumper wires either not pushed in properly, or crossed / touching another wire. Please re-check each connection on each light bar, and on the hands-free sensor. Take each end-cap off each light bar end to ensure each of the three wires is pushed into their holes properly.

[@richarddonovan5679]

How do you order this and where? Amazon was very confusing just kits

[@timknight6258]

Lowes has it

[@PureOpticsLED]

You can also order directly on our website: pureopticsled.com/products/under-cabinet-lighting/push-wire.html

[@2DFTraining]

I love this push wire....must be new haven't seen it in the store. Is it available now?

[@PureOpticsLED]

Push Wire is available now. You can find it on our website: pureopticsled.com/products/under-cabinet-lighting/push-wire.html

[@leshopkins45]

What if you have a light switch already?

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi Les, you can wire it to a rocker switch using the Black + Decker direct wire transformer found here: pureopticsled.com/push-wire-under-cabinet-light-48w-direct-wire-power-kit.html. Unfortunately, due to high demand, we are sold out.

[@jlmarr53]

@@PureOpticsLED Can the 48w plug-in power supply be plugged into a switched outlet to get the same effect without damaging the supply? I'm thinking of doing this with a HomeKit smart plug to get some level of automation.

[@warthogA10]

I didn't have my glasses on when I started watching this, and I was wondering why a chef was doing a lighting/electrical video,🤣

[@harryl7946]

🤣🤣🤣 Me too!!!

[@tolent1]

@@harryl7946 BAM!

[@timcox7503]

If I want to use a smart outlet for power, will I need to bypass the hands free sensor? If so, how would I do that?

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi Tim, you cannot bypass the sensor, that is also the control box. It controls the dimming and on/off. You can call our customer service team to get a hands-free sensor that turns AUTO ON when powered-up to solve this problem. You can call us at [phone].

[@Mattrh24]

Since the power is in the middle did you wire all the way to the right then come all the way back to left with 1 long piece of wire to connect the left side?

[@PureOpticsLED]

No need because the jumper wires connect to the control box (hands-free on/off box). You can run wires two ways off the control box - To the left and to the right.

[@nakantor]

Is there an option to connect it to smart home technology?

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi Nicholas, our Push Wire system does not have the ability to connect to smart home technology but we do have a smart home lighting system that's tool-free. You can find it here: pureopticsled.com/products/smart-home-lighting-systems.html

[@jimryan4959]

If I have 2 runs (left/right),aka split configuration, how is the light intensity controlled for both sides? Do I need to 'sync' the first light bar of each run or will one light bar control both? Thanks

[@harryl7946]

It looks like magic but it really isn’t. I’ve been searching for under cabinet lighting for almost 2 years. Have 2 coils of LED (RBG-W) strips but no power source. This appears to be one of the easiest a\with the most features I’ve seen to date. I wouldn’t worry about the control in both directions - from the video the lights seem to work well. I plan on reading more on the box and look forward to BDs answer to this query. Good luck!

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi Jim, the entire system runs from one control box (hands-free sensor) that can run lights both left and right (split configuration).

[@Ken-jk2vi]

Are you using a kit in your video or did you buy each item separately? The kits all seem to come with pre-cut lengths of wire and can you use the jumper wire spool with the kits instead of the pre-cut lengths of wire.

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi Ken, the patented system uses premium Black + Decker light bars and jumper wires. You cannot mix and match with other kits - it will not work. You can find our products here: pureopticsled.com/products/under-cabinet-lighting/push-wire.html

[@Mattrh24]

Where can I buy these? Difficult to find

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi Matt, you can find them here: pureopticsled.com/products/under-cabinet-lighting/push-wire.html. Unfortunately, due to high demand, we're currently sold out. We hope to have more in stock soon!

[@cherylmartin4050]

How about in drawers?

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi Cheryl, you can install the system anywhere you choose. We suggest thinking through how to run power from the adapter to the control box, then from the control box to the light(s). If you can make that work, go for it!

[@jamesbondero6170]

Be nice to have a plug connector for the cut cables that don't require stripping the wires. This would open it up to a bigger market of diy folks who don't feel comfortable stripping wires.

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi James, we do have a Tool-Free line of under cabinet lights that don't require cutting or stripping wires. You can find those here: pureopticsled.com/products/under-cabinet-lighting/tool-free.html

[@smarthome2660]

I have not added under cabinet lights yet. I do like these but not that I would have to walk through a dark kitchen to turn them on. I would replace the hands free sensor with a Sonoff Mini. Then add in a smart motion sensor and run a routine to turn these on when motion was detected entering the room. Voice control / motion can turn these on / off and the dimmer can be used as it is now with it's last state capabilities or manual control at each of the lights. This manual brightness capability is a con IMO. If I was forced to use these lights, I would replace the dimmer with one that is located in the toe kick, making it truly hands free. At present I use an LED smart dim-able bulb in the stove vent light. This B&D light is hands free but to adjust the brightness is difficult with both hands grimy from mixing meatloaf. When you think about having hands free devices for when your hands are a mess, a hands free soap dispenser is good but then you have to turn on the water. This is one reason they make a hands free kitchen faucet. If I need more light than the vent light produces, I can turn on the 4 overhead lights by voice. I was curious as to the price of these and clicked on your link. All kits are "Out Of Stock".

[@pttthhh]

Thanks for the laugh

[@a914freak]

Yea not everyone has all of their cabinets mounted in a single continuous row...

[@leithashowers4420]

Awesome

[@scottyjr49]

The dimmer was skipped over as far as where it is mounted, it's size, mounting and what it looks like.

[@crawdad62]

It looks like the dimmer is part of the light bar itself. You can control the dimming on all the lights once they’re all connected.

[@PureOpticsLED]

That's correct!

[@durakis]

hard to believe they do not have an app for this product.

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi Turk, we don't have an app for our PushWire products but we do have a Smart Tool-Free Under Cabinet Lighting system that works with Alexa. You can find that here: pureopticsled.com/products/smart-home-lighting-systems.html

[@vrandomserious]

@@PureOpticsLED does it not work with Google Home?

[@PMPerformance]

It’s a shame this is not a kit and priced like the rest of your line. This pretty much doubles + the project just for the ability to push the wires in, instead of using the jumper cables.

[@PureOpticsLED]

Hi there, we understand your concern on the price, however the installation process is the best-in-class and will save professional electricians hundreds of dollars in time each installation. The patented system also uses WAGO® connectors which are premium and much higher priced but well worth the extra cost.

[@PMPerformance]

@@PureOpticsLED how is this saving hundreds of dollars by switching the connection type? Is this based on LARGE kitchens that need long spans? Not typical homes with typical kitchens?

[@maxquigley9524]

So you "hide it" (the sensor switch) to make it "easy to find". I'd rather have it in the open where anyone can find it.

[@daisy1441]

I like everything EXCEPT the taping of the lights instead of small screws. I would not put sticky tape anywhere on my nice cabinets. AND, what a mess if one burns out. Why not have the lights be magnetic and screw thin strips of metal to the under side of your cabinets where you want the lights. If they burn out they are easier to replace.

[@DPGReviews2012]

I was under the impression that the outlet used for hood microwaves was supposed to be a dedicated circuit for the microwave.

[@PureOpticsLED]

Always check local codes but the secondary plug should be usable with our system because it only draws a maximum of 48 watts.

[@harryl7946]

48w isn’t a whole lot of current (amps). LED’s run on so little. My whole kitchen is now LED lighting. Doing the cabinets has been a nightmare since I have to have an exit plan before I touch the first ting. I remodeled the kitchen year before last and installed 15a GFCI protected receptacles above the sink cabinet and the range cabinet in preparation for lights. These 2 receptacles are on a switch for convenience. Turns on all the lights at the same time. Definitely will purchase these lights on 2 separate 24w power supplies. Only have 6 total below and maybe 8 above if I decide to do uppers.

[@stevewilson7857]

You were under the wrong impression 😳

[@Supermaanie1]

No Black and Decker power tools available to use for this vid. hahaha. lights are cool though.

[@ddyeo503]

First off, I can't find these kits anywhere. All they have is plug in kits that use that stupid Alexa feature. I can find the push in lights separately, and the wire kit for push in lights, but then try to find the plug in power and remote control for push in lights, and they are just not available as far as I can tell. Why don't they have kits for push in wire lighting? I have been to 4 Lowe stores and 2 Home Depos and they never even heard of this type of lighting. Are the power adaptors all the same with under cabinet lighting? What about the remote control? You need to come back and answer these questions better. Showing us that cutting off the wires first is just plain stupid. We know how to cut wire off. But try to just buy these light at stores or online, and there just isn't a complete list of parts that you half to have to make them work,,,,,,,,,,,,

[@SMSCOOBY71]

What a load of sh*te, literally B&D went out and found the oldest biggest CFL light fittings they could to compare against the B&D trash, I can find about 50 other kits that simply wipe the floor with B&D stuff. Energizer for instance do an ultra thin colour changing remote kit for about £15 which is excellent. Black & Decker is considered a cheap & nasty brand in the UK, not much worse than either Stanley or Dewalt which are also garbage. Super cool..................not!

[@PureOpticsLED]

Our product is for professional installations of whole kitchens, linking up to 12 lights together on one system. The video shows what is representative of professional solutions installed by professional electrician in the US market.