Black Diamond Presents: RetroModern-Part 1: Kintsugi

[@BlackDiamondEquipmentLtd]

We understand and acknowledge the sensitive topic of safety while bolting and climbing. This is not instructional content, and we respect the decisions made by experts in their field, like Sam Elias, who have dedicated their entire lives to climbing. This was made to entertain and inspire. Thank you.

[@rockiesbouldering]

@blackdiamond - yeah you can say that but the reality is that climbing is an ever-growing sport and there is a better than even chance newbs will copy the methods they see in a sponsored video. That's why companies like Petzl have even their pro athletes like Megos wear buckets sport climbing in the Roctrip vids. Ultimately - if you are going to show a builder vid - you gotta cater to the lowest common denominator to promote safe practice.

[@nathanpage9726]

Thanks for the note, BD. But to be fair experts in the field of bolt replacement work come from the ASCA, Boulder Climbing Community, Washington Anchor Replacement Alliance, Salt Lake Climbers Coalition, etc. all of these orgs endorse use of the bowline, mechanical bolts where appropriate, Freekin helmets when developing, hands on the brake strand, etc. These dudes (Sam and Elias) having an opinion and thrusting this up on your huge platform are two very different things.

[@il24ir]

Saw these dudes filming an episode of this at the crag I was climbing at. Glad to see they're starting to post em!

[@dennislrobertson]

Great video! 😄

[@jdleblanc5041]

I was hoping for more actual bolting work. Awesome cave. But the episode seemed like a White hard hat, showed up and all the actual work was done. Maybe the other episodes show the work involved in bolting routes. The hours of cleaning and sitting in a harness, chair or not. And picking the line. I have good respect for Sam Elias, just more of the gnarly work would let all repeat ascensionist's know that it's actually hard to do

[@Biamondos982]

No helmets while developing and no hands on the brake strand at 6:48, what are we doing here?

[@lukeaurand5722]

They have back up knots

[@TheBroncopeters]

What we want.

[@danieltrujillo593]

Nothing like setting routes without a helmet ;)

[@rockiesbouldering]

lol - right after saying how loose it is. And - testing if the glue properly set by climbing on it??? Looks like a cool route though.

[@Biamondos982]

And no hands on the brake line at 6:47

[@rundown132]

Literal carelessness, I don't care how good of a climber you are lol

[@naberekmek]

It is called bolting routes... setting is for indoors❤

[@roosnuts]

Awesome video, I love the Black Diamond produced stuff. On to the technical critique, if you're going to tie a tree, you can use padding around the tree to protect the bark, or use a tensionless hitch. The struggle between a bowline or a figure eight is like he's never tied a tree anchor before. I'd probably do the same thing with the camera in my face. But I would have edited this out. It's a good reminder to tie a bowline with a backup knot. If you are a climbing equipment manufacturer, then your videos should be A+ on technical rope and equipment.

[@jumpingjackflash00]

👍

[@nathanpage9726]

Quite a few gaffs here - especially considering it is produced by a technical climbing company... First - "Mechanical bolts last 10 - 20 years" - This is simply not accurate. A good ASCA-endorsed 2.75 inch 1/2 stainless powers bolt (5-peice) has a working lifespan closer to 50 years and many stainless half inch wedge bolts can be expected to be the same. There is just a lot more nuance here than blanket statement made above (metals, environment, rock type, length, bolt type, etc). I do like the intent of saying that glue-in (adhesive) anchors are a lot longer lasting - but let's not make that point by disparaging perfectly good mechanical hardware. Second - bowlines are one of the preferred knots for rigging and anchor building precisely because they are so easy to tie and untie after being weighted. That said, there is always a finishing knot to ensure the bowline does not come untied. A barrel knot, yosemite finish, et. are all perfectly valid. Several million climbers around the world tie in to the rope with some variant of a bowline - so please, again do not spread inaccurate information. Third - are you all seriously advocating folks rebolt routes without helmets? Sure, the wall is steep, but just looking at all of the debris on top of the route while they were drilling had me cringing. Eye pro is also a standard that should be demonstrated. Fourth - The climber wants to climb the route to ensure the adhesive set properly? Yeah - that's not the way to check that... And lastly - I recognize this is a bit more "best practice y" and isn't always possible on steep sport routes, but please try to go hole for hole when upgrading hardware! Unless there is a legitimate reason to move the bolt. Inspiring video, beautiful rock, nice story, but wooof did y'all miss the mark on the technical standards!

[@artyparty_av]

Developing, maintaining, etc with no helmets is a bit bold imo

[@andrejvbo]

especially at a chossy looking crag like that.

[@teagrotto6760]

Nice video and good looking line! A few more hours of conception and preparation and you actually could have put those bolts in the perfect places 😂

[@EpifanoEntertainment]

There's already an important boulder with that name 😂

[@keigank6440]

God what was that, a bolt every 5 feet? I realize this might have been the original character of the route, but definitely some overbolting either way. Aside from the safety information others have brought up, I’m really glad BD stressed the importance of contacting previous setters and local climbing coalitions. I know it’s not the most entertaining but thoughtless/excessive bolting is why we’ve got a storm brewing with NPS and USFS. Let’s keep each other accountable and try to set good examples.

[@brandonadams3195]

This guy does not know what he's talking about...

[@nathanhoette328]

Looks like a whole lot of fun times to me! Call me simple but nothing more satisfying than making something useful 🫶