Black Oxide Coating Parts For Your Own Projects

Did you ever want to restore your own hardware or parts but hate using paint and want a more professional look? See how I do it with this simple DIY kit from Caswell Plating. The oil based sealant is supplied with the Caswell kit.
Link for kits: caswellplating.com/black-oxid...
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disclaimer:
The content of this video is available for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to be a substitute for the professional advice of a mechanic who has personally inspected your vehicle, nor does it create a relationship of any kind between GearBoxVideo (Paul Cangialosi) and you. Every situation may be different, and GearBoxVideo does not make any warranties, whether express or implied, as to the accuracy, fitness, or applicability of the information or automotive parts portrayed in this video to any project and makes no guarantee of results. GearBoxVideo and any sponsors or manufacturers of parts that may appear in this video or any of the channel's content will not be liable for any damages related to personal injury, property damage or loss of any kind that may result from the use or reliance on this video and/or any automotive parts represented in this video. You are using the information and automotive parts portrayed in this video solely at your own risk.

[@GearBoxVideo]

Some people think this is a paid promotion. THIS IS NOT A PAID PROMOTION. This is a product I found on the internet and decided to give it a try. So what you are seeing is my first time using it. I've reordered it several times and trust me have paid each time. My video is unbiased. Discussion about the product and your results using different techniques are welcome. We are all here to learn from one another. Any rudeness will get your comments removed and blocked. THE OIL BASED SEALANT IS PROVIDED BY CASWELL. THIS IS A COLD APPLICATION. THIS IS DIFFERENT THAN A HOT APPLICATION. SinCe this video has become popular and comments and questions are constantly repeated... PLEASE READ BELOW MASK USE WAS DURING MASK MANDATES A OVER A YEAR AGO --- LOOK AT THE PUBLISH DATE. There are two general types of blackening for iron and steel: hot blackening and room temperature blackening (or cold blackening).1 Hot blackening can be done from generic mixtures of caustic soda, sodium nitrite / nitrate, wetting agents and stabilizers or from proprietary mixtures.The result of the process is a dark black iron oxide finish with both good durability and corrosion resistance.The hot blackening process however, uses toxic chemicals and operates at about 140°C (284°F) for 45 min. Working at temperatures well above the boiling point of water leads to major problems, particularly when replacement water is introduced. Hot blackening is a polluting, energy consuming and time consuming process.In order to reduce the hazards of hot blackening, and to save energy, proprietary cold blackening solutions have been developed.2 They are operated at room temperature, and are based on different chemistries, so they are substantially less hazardous. Further, room temperature blackening processes are simple and safe to operate. They are becoming more and more attractive. On the other hand, room temperature blackening is not a true black oxide process.Rather it involves the application of a copper-selenium compound. This compound is not always an acceptable substitute for black oxide, as it does not look as durable as the one obtained with a hot blackening process. However it works fairly well for low budget and certain applications. Parts that I make in quanities over 100 items get hot blackened by professional companies set up do to these processes and deal with the harsh chemicals.

[@alejonin]

Caswell is very well known for plating.

[@chrisgarside7974]

Appreciate you sharing your experience. Very useful technique which I’d heard of but not seen demonstrated.

[@xxsilverxxfox5153]

How about a follow up video with a scratch test? Is the finished product easy to scratch?

[@rifqy9966]

Terimakasih atas ilmu nya 👍

[@aerialrescuesolutions3277]

Well said.

[@eagle3351]

I worked in a research and development fabrication shop back in the seventies and we used to blacken our parts. We always heated our parts before we put them in the solution. They always darkened evenly and quickly we took them out and neutralized them dried them in immediately sprayed them with oil. We never had any complaints from anybody. I mostly work with copper and zinc now so I love playing with the chemicals.

[@Spruce-Bug]

How hot did you heat them up to?

[@sohailawan3572]

With heat & dipping is professional method 👍

[@JKWilson61]

Glad to see you back. Always enjoy your videos! 👍

[@stuartbuckley8720]

So glad you are back on. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@Bigskyguy56]

Paul, Great to see all is well. Glad to see you are back on KZbin. Stay Real.

[@jonnyonwheels]

I love Caswell’s products. They’re about an hour from me and are a wealth of knowledge when it comes to polishing, plating, etc. They’ve been in business for a long time and it’s easy to actually get a person on the phone for help. A real company, with real people, selling & shipping real products from Lyons, NY.

[@GearBoxVideo]

Their customer service and questions have always been answered

[@sharkskinboy]

I love this channel, it's so refreshing to see authentic people like Paul on KZbin who know their stuff and love what they do.

[@brankelly1921]

My thoughts exactly!

[@94jimmy5]

I didn't know this process could be done at home. Thank you for posting it. it will come in handy.

[@MAYCOCustomRestorations]

I just tried this for the first time today and will be using this all the time. I even inserted the bolt into the threads, removed and checked. Its very durable.

[@jamesbruno5896]

Great video Paul, I use the exact same chemicals when I'm restoring old carburetors with steel bases it's held up well. If you want a slightly glossier finish seal with WD-40.

[@stephenmitchell3569]

Reminds me of a Hurst Shifter of the late 60s to mid 70s. I was expecting gun parts but shifter remind me of good times...lol! I will be trying the products and thank you for sharing.

[@douglasroseveare7295]

Another great video. I just ordered one of your how to manuals this morning from Amazon. I can't wait to read it cover to cover and tear my mustang transmission apart this summer and rebuild it. Thanks for all the information and tips.

[@Mike-xt2ot]

Absolute talent yields Absolutely amazing results. Thank you for sharing your experience and talent.

[@alankesper4480]

Great vids! I appreciate the time and effort spent in making these for the benefit of many viewers you are handing on your honed skills to many DIYS and younger people. I wish these tutorials were around when I was young it would have saved me years learning the hard way. You have a rare natural talent for teaching and getting the message across clearly with sincere thanks Alan Australia

[@LewHarriman]

Terrific teacher! Engaging, complete and very useful. Thanks, man.

[@gasgiant7122]

Hey Paul great tutorial, OMG this is soooo easy to do. I never knew it was this easy, thank you.

[@wakefieldyorkshire]

Quality, quality work Paul that stuff puts a real professional finish to the completed job.

[@user-pj2mn1qp3x]

I bake my parts before sandblasting to burn off oils so they don't get in my sand. I use a weed burner propane torch and turn it down until there is no blue flame hitting the parts. I put the parts on top of a piece of steel box tube to keep them off the concrete and keep them heated until they start to smoke. Keep them at about that temp until there is no more smoke. Sand blast and continue with your coating of choice.

[@michaeldonohue9760]

That is just terrific! I am definitely going to give this a try! Thanks so much for posting this video.

[@moparnut6286]

Man good too see you back! Great video I've used caswell for years.

[@tomferguson4996]

Great video! Well articulated, smoothly flowing, and concise. This is my first time here, and I'm sure I'll be back. Thanks!

[@RustyEast]

The cross contamination was driving me crazy ,but you pulled it off in the end. Subscribed

[@DM-rp7ps]

Dr Paul strikes again - great vid! Nice to see you branching out to other topics. Your genuine, true to life vids are refreshing compared to overproduced and edited ones which would have removed the imperfection and explanation thereof which most of us could encounter in real life. Luv this guy; with his book, parts and vids; I was able to rebuild my first 4 speed and get my 2nd gen Z back on the road which was a bright spot in a blah year. My 17 year old daughter was disappointed when she heard I was ready to put an auto in it due to several crashbox failures. She runs it like a champ now, and is proud of driving a stick car!

[@dtc1117]

I just wanted to to say THANK YOU for taking the time and the grief, in order to provide us with FREE process' that one normally would be looking to pay for. As I am sure you already know........there are a LOT of people out there with fast fingers and slow thinkers!

[@GearBoxVideo]

HOW TRUE!

[@captainjohnh9405]

In the past I used Caswell's nickle plating kits for small parts, and it worked well. Just like you experienced, cleanliness and oddities in the base metal can affect the results. Thanks for the video. I've been considering the black oxide kits, but was hoping to see someone else's results first. Those parts looked great!

[@GearBoxVideo]

Thanks for watching

[@mnhoss2100]

Great video! Thanks. One could use a metal minnow bucket for the sealer too. It also has a strainer. About the same price as yours though.. but I happen to have one that I don't use so free for me. 😁

[@Mr.BigweldNBTX]

Another great video man! Love the old school shifters and all the info you've had on 4 speeds!

[@jameslezak8179]

Great video! This product is exactly what I've been looking for! Excellent explanation of coloring process and tips about cross contamination of the process liquids! Thanks for your time and sharing your knowledge! 👍

[@dlpannebakker]

Always pre-clean before blasting clean again prior to using a scuff pad or sandpaper then clean again. Reason for the multiple cleaning is when you blast without cleaning & or sanding/scuffing you are putting oils into the pits or scratches of the metal. Wipe dry if need to after using parts brake cleaner. Try using a oil silicone remover that’s used in auto painting.

[@jeremyanderson9967]

Great video. If I may add. I do restoration on old guns. You can get a bluing paste that works fantastic and you can just use a few paper towels to wipe it down. Good job on this video. Very educational. Keeper going!

[@ericlipps7152]

I tried the blueing stuff on some chisels I've been restoring like the look alot.

[@91customs19]

Been working on cars and bikes forever now (47yr old) and this was something I’ve heard of but never seen applied thank you I’m gonna try this

[@GearBoxVideo]

Thanks for watching

[@haraldharms9588]

Great video, will have to try that out.Thanks for taking the time to do these videos for us.

[@jim34morrison]

Looks good. Going forward, after degreasing you may try heating the parts in an oven to ‘gas out’ any remaining oils. If oil surfaces, degrease and repeat heating. I think at a temp of 315 - 350 F?

[@cfcasazza]

Caswell plating is a great company. They also make the best gas tank sealer.

[@jackhanson8467]

Nice work. Your end product looks good & professional. A small insignificant point is that while cast iron has pores, steel does not.

[@blackops84321]

I learned a lot from you with this video. You explained it all very thoroughly thank you for making it. I'm going to give it a try now.

[@GearBoxVideo]

Thank for watching the video. I welcome constructive comments about how other people do this process. No links, no emails or phone numbers please. We can all learn from one another. Rude comments, rude replies are deleted and you get blocked.

[@ataarjomand]

Thanks a lot. It was really helpful.

[@scubbarookie]

This video was very impressive and helpful. The options for anyone willing to do the job themselves is really great and convenient, but with an initial investment. Thank you for putting this out and demonstrating how this works! 👍

[@mojunk19]

Thanks for the information. I do a lot of little restoration jobs and this may save me some time.

[@TheDude1764]

Great video! I use cold blue-type processes for gun parts. I’ve been reading about these kits and want to try one out. You might be interested in a company called EPI. They have similar products for black oxide finishes (room temp, mid temp, and high temp). They have a few other product options you may find useful for some of those hardened parts. Thanks again for the great demo.

[@midnightsailor1]

I was getting ready to comment on your questionable technique, but glad I waited to end and saw that you caught it yourself and made mention of your bad practice of not lining up your tanks in the order they are used , minimizing dripping sealer into oxidizing solution and visa versa .also cross contamination via dipping gloves hands in solution. Very interesting and useful video. Glad I caught it.

[@GearBoxVideo]

Thank you for watching the video completely. The biggest problem with comments is people not watching videos to the end and jumping to conclusions. Also people not reading the initial pinned comment. This video got a great deal of views but according to stats few people watch it to the end

[@brianb-p6586]

@@GearBoxVideo There's no initial pinned comment on this video.

[@brianbaumgartner7223]

NICE! I stumbled across this video. By chance, I am presently already in the process of ordering a comprehensive Caswell setup for unrelated projects.

[@gtchalie5038]

Very informative and thorough! Thanks. It just popped into my feed and a worthwhile watch.

[@tomconner5067]

Use a commercial degreaser scrub with a soft metal brush, rinse and scrub with distilled water, then steam clean (use distilled water in steamer) and dry in a convection oven at 225°F (toaster oven for smaller parts) for 20-30 minutes depending on part size and mass, up to 60 minutes or 275° at 20-40 minutes and let them cool in the oven, any impregnated oils or contaminants will form a dry scale,rinse with steam or distilled water, scrub them off with a clean non scratching scouring pad and distilled water (green scotch-brite pad for steel) and dry with a fresh paper towel.

[@narmale]

free knowledge... craftsmen giving up their time and knowledge to help those that will listen thank you Paul!!!! will be doing this on my truck for sure now that i know how to, btw your website has an order :)

[@GearBoxVideo]

Thank you

[@lazylizard6532]

Nice vid. I’m glad you said something about the cross contamination. Sometimes a video set up isn’t for best results, but ya got to get the shot!

[@Ademann]

You're back!! Greetings from Germany!!!

[@GearBoxVideo]

Yes I am!

[@steventimme5268]

For best results DO NOT use brake cleaner to clean your parts. Use a water based degreaser such as Caswell SP Degreaser. Follow directions. Spotting and shading will be greatly reduced/eliminated. Glass bead blast parts whenever possible. Generally, the softer the steel, the better the results. Caswell now has a primer for hardened parts that I am currently testing. Best regards!

[@GearBoxVideo]

Good advice. Read the pinned comment. I have zero issues with my later jobs. Brake cleaner IS NOT the primary degreaser. I've since been heating the solution to 120F and the hardened parts seem to take fine.

[@davidlandry9113]

Great video, Paul. I actually ordered a kit from them. The pricing is really good especially given the amount they give you. Fantastic video as always, appreciate your practical, no-nonsense approach!

[@williebulletman5217]

Thank you for showing all of us

[@awizardalso]

I use a charcoal grill to heat treat metal parts red hot then quench them in used motor oil. It turns them black with an oily coating making them rust proof.

[@tribulation138]

Same here

[@nathanhale7444]

I've done that too. Discovered it by accident when I wanted to cool down a part I wanted to cool down faster. I did t have any water handy but I had a bucket of old motor oil. I was amazed with the result.

[@Lykoloo]

Probably not a good idea to do this with hardened steel, though.

[@shelbyavant5081]

@@Lykoloo Yeah there's a lot of people in here that don't understand temper.

[@duramaxmak]

I owned a black oxide processing company for over 15 years I used hot black oxide process. One thing I like to correct you is your doing a controlled rusting process. If your not keep oil on your parts they will rust (iron oxide red rust).out in the industry there are a couple of things that can be used to stop this red oxide one being oil and the other is a wax type sealant. I used water soulable oil in my five tank process. My chemicals I used were from Heatbath corporation My process was as follows Uniclean 1008 degreaser at 195 degrees then ambient water rinse then Pentrate ultra (black oxide ) chemical at 285 degrees then another ambient water rinse and finally water soluble oil ant 100 degrees.

[@GearBoxVideo]

I've been using Penatrol as a sealant and now do it in a crock pot! Seems to work really well.

[@JWB671]

Mak Tool, how long in each process were the parts kept?

[@duramaxmak]

@@JWB671 the degreasing process generally only 5 minutes mostly just removing tapping oil and any oil left on material rinse not very long maybe a minute then the black oxide was if chemicals were up to concentration and a nice rolling boil you could be in tank for 5 minutes sometimes longer depending on the material then rinse for about 2 to 4 minutes and just dip in oil and pull out and drain

[@g040700]

Water soluble oil? What oil would that be :) trying to learn thanks

[@duramaxmak]

@@g040700 there are oils available that when mixed with water they turn milky white when metal is dipped in the fluid and pulled out the water evaporates and leaves a oil film I ran my dip tank at 125 degrees so when parts came out the water would evaporate quicker I hope I have helped

[@CrawdaddyCustoms]

Nice, Paul!! I really appreciate the knowledge you share! Thank you 😊

[@stealhty1]

This is way better than the process of Parkerizing

[@recyclebills]

I've done it with straight Muratic Acid using water only for rinsing.

[@ScottKendall1969]

I watch youtube almost exclusively - lots of DIY. You, sir, are brilliant at these videos. Almost every word that comes out of your mouth is useful while making it look casual. I hope you make more and push out these of DIY yakkidy-yaks who are clueless half the time. I believe I know exactly how to black-oxide parts the best way possible for a DIYer after watching.

[@GearBoxVideo]

Thank you

[@ketansaart1546]

This is the type of uncle I would expect staying near the next block, where I can visit and assist everyday 😊🍀

[@backnine]

Hi Paul Built a few Transmissions with your expertise and parts. I restore Carburetors. I do the plating and Dichromate conversion. I use the black oxide for screws cast iron bases. I use to manganese phosphate but the black oxide is no heat so it makes it quicker. You can buy the chemical from EPI. That is were Caswell buys it from. I use Insta black 333 and E tech 501 oil. They have a new product insta black 335 which I am going to try. I buy gallon qty. It is cheaper than buying from caswell.

[@GearBoxVideo]

Thanks for the tip

[@stevej7139]

Interesting , I watched this to compare with the black oxide I used to do back in 1976 when I worked at a metal plating company . I was in charge of Black oxide and a few semi exotic plating's . When I ran parts we used titanium hooks , racks or baskets to hold parts for most plating and we did several different plating types . The actual corrosive salt and water for black oxide was kept at 280F degrees but with the salt it raises the boiling temperature such that 280 isn't actually boiling , close but not quite . then it goes straight into the penetrating oil while it's still hot . The prep work is a bit different but anything that removes rust and any contaminates is good , as a plating shop we had things like electro cleaners , ultrasonic cleaners , bead blasters (aka vapor hones) , 5% Muriatic acid bath (great for removing rust) and others acids and cleaners depending on the material being plated . I wonder how well the plating you demonstrated in this video compares to the results with the hot salt method .

[@GearBoxVideo]

What I now do is use a crock pot. And let it boil in the crock pot, dry and then into the oil. Works much better. Parts come out great.

[@stevej7139]

@@GearBoxVideo What is the chemical makeup of that solution if I can ask ? I have a product that converts rust using Chlorobenzotrifloride as it's active ingredient and it is similar in that it locks oxygen away from the raw metal . Just curious after I left metal plating I went into aerospace manufacturing which gave me a somewhat unique position as a machinist knowing how plating of all sorts works . Fun stuff but glad I left that industry as it can shorten your lifespan a bit if you do it for a living .

[@GearBoxVideo]

Please read my pinned comment. I have no idea since it was purchased from Caswell. Despite the endless banter here about what is better or not it works quite well with no rust issues. We use it on shifters which are exposed to the elements

[@stevej7139]

@@GearBoxVideo Ok I just read the chemicals involved , it's an interesting solution and I can see how they are able to call it black oxide even though it's a very different process than what I know as such . Seems pretty legit though and better than other solutions people could try , the only better way to go is use a material that doesn't corrode . The old way of Black Oxide probably has better wear properties although it's really hard to say for sure but otherwise I see nothing wrong with it , good thing to keep in the back of my mind that I can do at my own house (outside preferably) without dealing with a plater that wants to charge a minimum fee of at least a hundred or more depending on the shop . I'm retired these days so I don't have access to plating shops like I used to , a few years ago I could get almost anything done for me personally for free but I had close ties to the owner of a plating shop back then , now I live almost two thousand miles from there .

[@GearBoxVideo]

I use it for a few items at a time. I make a great deal of parts. Some in the 5000 to 15000 quantity. Those larger quantities I send out to get done.

[@rudytorres6559]

Great video. Thanks for the information. We have a project that may require black metal parts. Coming from a true beginner on Black oxide processes this may be the path we take. Thank you again.

[@francfurian8215]

Excellent explanation & showing of the product. Thanks for sharing it. Cheers😊

[@davidryle]

"Cold Black" is different from hot dipped "Blacken" process. I've been blackening parts for nearly 50 years in a hot dip process and it is much more durable. This process will do for a quick finish but will rub off if handled. For a hot dip process on ferrous steel you must reach 290 degrees fahrenheit and seal in oil. The key ingredient is sodium hydroxide (lye). The vendor I use is Maxim Oil in Dallas and the manufacturer is Heatbath (Superblack 290). I don't blame anyone doing this technique and it is good enough for some uses but for a full-on professional finish there is nothing like a hot dipped process. Also, there is no way stainless will blacken fully. Why would it be necessary? Stainless will not rust or oxidize so why bother?

[@dntlss]

Hey David,what kind of process they use on guns? hot dip also? when you buy a gun, mainly a revolver thats black it has that really thick nice shinny coating that never comes off,i was wondering what that was? thank you for your input.

[@GearBoxVideo]

Did you take the time to read my pinned comment?

[@GearBoxVideo]

Exactly my point in my pinned comment. I'm getting all these comments about hot methods being better, not true blackening etc. I do agree with everyone about the differences and am well aware of them. People just don't read the comments so the same questions get asked and I have limited time and cannot keep answering the same questions over and over because someone is to lazy to read. Usually parts that we have 500 to 5000 pieces made we have done by companies that handle those volumes. However on 1 off or small rebuild projects that is not possible. The video has got an amazing amount of views in 1 Year. Fact is I've done quite a few shifters in that year and have worked out a better system using a small crock pot for a warmer solution and rinsing and drying then 4 hours in sealant. Great long lasting results.

[@ScottAuch]

@@Rattletrap-xs8il the Caswell product uses Selenium in their formula.

[@Rattletrap-xs8il]

@@ScottAuch I don't use Caswell's bluing. But I do Use some of their plating. As I said, the Selenium process is not a resilient bluing method.

[@peterweller8583]

The black oxide concentrate looks like a copper sulfate solution. On an aside we used to blacken metal with a torch and some old drain oil.

[@darrensaltiel440]

that is oil bluing or hot bluing this is more of a cold blue

[@donaldmatthies6026]

Great video explaining the process you used, nice results. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video. And yes I read the description and the pinned comment, also liked and subscribed.

[@miked9606]

Paul you are the best. Thank you.

[@dennisbarnett5635]

I have tried Caswell Black oxide product It does produce a nice finish quickly BUT It does not produce a lasting finish unless the Protective sealant dip is repeatedly reapplied forever if you don't parts start flash rusting. Also that little bottle doesn't do very many parts before its spent and you need more. My advice AVOID Caswell Cold Black Oxide coatings! I am curious to who you used that was doing a True HOT Black Oxide coatings. I have looked into doing in myself but It takes some specialized equipment and the Temps are 350 or so. I have had good luck with Baking parts to 400-450 and then dipping them in used Motor oil. I have mainly been doing Cadmium plating, Copper and Nickle for most all my stuff any more I enjoy your Transmission videos and have purchased one of your books.

[@nickonick9372]

Hey mate I’m a new subscriber thanks for a fantastic basic not to complicated video really liked watching it several times . What sort of sealant did you use was it from Caswell ? . Do you think you can use aluminium with this black oxide process ?

[@GearBoxVideo]

Sealant from Caswell. Will not work with aluminum

[@gergemall]

Thank you . I’m glad to find your channel.

[@imdeplorable2241]

This video was excellent. I actually learned something. Thank you.👍👍

[@caswellsubs]

This is a great video for our products. Very impressed! Thank you

[@GearBoxVideo]

Thank you. Glad you liked it. KZbin features it often.

[@Hobsonize4me]

wash parts in acid first to clean out the pores of the metal

[@WildDigger]

Looks great. I need this process for some projects too. Thanks.

[@jondavidmcnabb]

Thank you for this simple and helpful video.

[@steventimme5268]

Also, stick with the Caswell oil that comes with the kit. Cold blackening can be ruined by some strong petroleum distillates. I used oil from my hot black system and had to refinish all my cold blackened parts. Remember, cold black is not a true replacement for hot black.

[@DontCallMeGarage]

black oxide concentrate = selenium dioxide the active ingredient in dandruff shampoo

[@matthewzuber9823]

Tip Top video my friend! Thanks for the demonstration

[@michaelanderson3771]

Great episode - that Caswell product works well and their Zinc product work also. Passivation liquids Blue for Bright Zinc.

[@kevinmorris8727]

How abrasion resistant is the coating? Would have been nice to see on the parts you were going to re-sandblast. On the prep, wondering if soaking in acetone for 15 minutes, then sandblasting with clean and oil free media, then degassing the metal at 250 deg F. for 30 minutes to remove all oils from within the metal would have produced better results on the brackets.

[@tedecker3792]

Blast using new/clean media. Re-used media is fine most of the time

[@Hobsonize4me]

After sanding or sand blasting, acid wash parts to clean out pores of the metal of to free them of microscopic dust and oils. I use distilled water with 5-10% muriatic. Rinse well with just distilled water. Dry parts off first with air blast (only if your compressor blows clean dry air) then with heat gun or put in an oven. Getting it perfectly clean and keeping it perfectly clean will produce the best results. It's very important to not touch the metal with your fingers between steps or let the parts come in contact with anything that might contaminate the surface. While parts are dry and still warm proceed to putting parts in to the black oxide solution.

[@GearBoxVideo]

Before making comments about masks please look at the date this video was uploaded. YES ... 1 YEAR AGO. At that time no store would allow you in without a mask. I also live in the wonderful state of Florida and now a year later we have no mask mandates and can carry on living life normally. If you feel compelled to make stupid comments about me wearing a mask in this video a year ago your comment simply gets deleted and you blocked from my channel.

[@AllAroundTube50]

It's best to ignore the haters and the whiners!

[@GearBoxVideo]

Its sad to see the ignorance of people that jump to conclusions without looking at the video's date of upload. However I am impressed that people feel compelled to take time out of their day to rant about masks.

[@brendancurtin2632]

For a bunch of people refusing to wear masks because of their personal "rights" and "freedoms" and so on, they sure spend a lot of time telling other people to take their masks off. They're a bunch of hypocrites.

[@shannonjohnson3075]

Personally, I would prefer that you NOT delete and ban the loser/idiot/rude comments. I find them funny enough while reading them that they are no longer offensive to me. They are just entertainment... like watching really tiny train-wrecks... BTW, Thank you for taking the time to make the video. It's nice to see folks doing these things in sort of a real time format/fashion so that I can think through the process and the differences in how I would do it myself and how I will need to set up my workstation while doing it...

[@GearBoxVideo]

Basically I don't like the current state of social media where there is a great deal of discord on comments. I'd much prefer people learn from one another and share knowledge.

[@eribertoacedo9505]

I’m liking that quite a bit thank you I’m going to refinish a bunch of parts with that black oxide thank you!!

[@ChrisCraigie-oi1un]

Great job on an interesting subject. Thanks for teaching.

[@mgsharnhorst]

What sealant are you using ?

[@billmoran3219]

Man this is dated two months old, never got notifications, you tube you suck! Thanks for the tutorial.

[@GearBoxVideo]

Make sure you use the notification bell and subscribe. Thank you

[@cb84capri]

Great video. This process looks a lot easier and less time consuming than I thought it would be.

[@GearBoxVideo]

It really is!

[@johnwilburn]

Fantastic video. I learned a lot and will use this in the future!

[@d.j.fowers456]

Probably a dumb question: Would this product work - in the sense of over the top of - a traditional "cold" gun bluing (Birchwood Casey Super Blue)? Or would you have to kill / acid strip the old bluing and repolish all the metal?

[@GearBoxVideo]

You would have to ask Caswell. They are pretty good with phone tech questions

[@karinchaney101]

What is the "sealer" being used?

[@VulcansCreator]

Love your videos! They're always informative and thanks for oxide kit info!

[@GearBoxVideo]

You are so welcome!

[@philpartin8618]

I remember you rebuilding a standard transmission for Eric the carguy. Awesome

[@davidwilson2581]

What are you using as a sealant

[@LeonardoStaAna-cf8ll]

What kind of sealant is that?

[@Bdady74]

Thank you for posting, very straight forward and clearly explained.

[@HOTHUDSON54]

Thanks for the video... very informative to this neophyte!

[@michaelgiddens4118]

What do you use for the sealant

[@johnact9134]

Paul, measure the chemical first then use the water to remove the chemical from the measuring cup as you measure out the water ! This is not like diluting H2SO4 where you MUST add acid to water never water to acid.

[@GearBoxVideo]

Makes sense. Thanks for the tip

[@MrPossumeyes]

Cheers for this. Good info in the vid, good info in the description, good info in your pinned comment. Appreciated.

[@Goldwing1500rider]

Kwel sharing!! Wouldn’t mind doing some myself.. thank you for sharing

[@N.Cognito]

Blast with aluminum oxide 180 grit. Don't touch the parts with bare hands (wear rubber gloves). A proper water break test consists of dipping the clean part in water and then looking for the water to break off of the dirty areas. I've been in the plating industry (including conversion coatings like black oxide) for almost 20 years. What I described is standard practice at coating facilities.

[@GearBoxVideo]

Thank you for sharing

[@rogermccaslin5963]

When you dip the part in water, doesn't it start to rust or do you have some treatment for that? Or does it not matter about a little surface rust when dipping in the black oxide solution? I have sanded parts before and a few hours later, you can see tiny dots of rust starting to form. I'm in South Florida and the humidity is all it takes. I've got a project I'm thinking of doing this to so I'm doing the research now so when I get to that stage, I don't screw things up.

[@N.Cognito]

@@rogermccaslin5963 it's not for a long period of time. You can literally dip them in and out and then check for water breaks. If it's still water wet after 30 seconds or so it's clean.

[@rogermccaslin5963]

@@N.Cognito I get the part about the water tension cleanliness check. I was just wondering about it possibly starting to rust. I guess if you water check and then dry (or at least shake off) and process through the chem bath in a short period of time, you won't have to worry about rust.

[@N.Cognito]

@@rogermccaslin5963 no need to dry. Perform the water break test, when your happy with the results simply put the part in the solution. Keep in mind you should only start the test when your ready to process the parts. As long as the parts stay wet they shouldn't rust in the short timeframe between starting the test and processing.

[@oldtimefarmboy617]

Personally, considering water is cheaper than the concentrate, I would have put eight cups of water then one cup of concentrate then one cup of water just to make certain I got every drop of concentrate out of the measuring cup. But then I am a little obsessively compulsively frugal.

[@GearBoxVideo]

To each his own. Just keep to the proportions.

[@oldtimefarmboy617]

@@GearBoxVideo Absolutely, but waste not want not.