Black Powder Lube: Traditional vs. Wads

In this video, I’ll compare two different methods for using lubricant in a cap and ball revolver; traditional lube and pre-lubricated felt wads. Be sure to subscribe to my channel for more videos. Thanks for watching!
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Lubricated felt wads are available here: gunsoftheweststore.com/produc...
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[@GunsOfTheWest]

Check out the Guns of the West store here: gunsoftheweststore.com

[@jefflang6271]

I went in a different direction. After watching a Long Hunter's video on cap & ball loading, I bought rigid cork vegetable wads (like you use when making black powder brass cartridges). The wad goes tightly over the powder charge, then you place about enough BP lube to equal about an airsoft BB over the cork wad. The ball then goes OVER the lube. The cork wad sweeps the fouling out of the barrel and because it is rigid & tight it helps seal the chamber. The lube ends up in the rifling and there is enough to leave a lube star on the outside of the muzzle. Even after 60 rounds my barrel is no dirtier than a modern smokeless gun barrel and the rifling is always clear. I never expected it to work like they said but it does.

[@billenh1]

Exactly. The purpose of the lube is to keep the fouling soft and not to keep the barrel clean. Using any wad or card is going to tend to scrape the bore a bit. I do use wads (Sagebrush Outfitters) in my 1858's but rely on the lube from Big Lube bullets in my 45 colt revolvers.

[@drewames9629]

I also use a dollop of lube over the wad and under the ball. It works well and isn't messy. I got that idea from this on-line reference: “Shooting the Black Powder Revolver” by John L. Fuhring www.geojohn.org/BlackPowder/bps1.html However, as Dustin's previous video on the topic shows, lube over the ball is a far sight better than no lube!

[@seantierney3]

great video. In Elmer Keith book Sixguns he mentions that he learned to punch disks from felt hats and soak them in lube for cap and ball revolvers. I would say the lube wad method is historical.

[@thepowderguy7192]

Dude badass idea haha spend tho if your using the real thing which is just pressed rabbit /beaver or any fine furr 😃

[@1stminnsharpshooters341]

@6 6 I'd done this - using and old felt hat as a source for making felt wads at kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqGXYYWJfbmmhac

[@TheStraycat74]

@@1stminnsharpshooters341 I only have one felt hat, My Fedora, and I'm not punching wads out of it... nope. I bought 1/4" thick felt from amazon (about $5 a sheet at the time) and used a 12mm punch and used my own homemade lube (50/50 beef tallow and beeswax)

[@1stminnsharpshooters341]

@@TheStraycat74 Fair enough on not ruining your only felt hat pard. Can you send me the amazon link on your felt purchase? does your 50/50 mixture run in hot summer months? --LT

[@TheStraycat74]

@@1stminnsharpshooters341 I would, but the last set I bought it no longer available or that seller doesn't carry them anymore... just do an amazon search for 1/8th to 1/4 inch felt sheets. I use a 12mm hole punch/gasket maker that I got for cheap (because the 44cal wad cutters I found were three times as much). bees wax 'pearls' and tallow can also be gotten off of amazon. IF I had an affiliates Link, I'd post them there, but I haven't heard back from Amazon about my information request to do just that... yet. also, posting links on other peoples videos is bad juju.

[@3toepete574]

I've found black powder loves compression. The tighter the better for accuracy. I think the wads aid that and accuracy improves. Great video Dustin.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

Thanks for watching!

[@fdhicks69]

Agreed. When loading BP in brass cartridges, it doesn’t like unfilled volume.

[@russellkeeling4387]

Why not omit the wad and use more powder. The pistol will handle it.

[@southerncountryboy8]

I prefer to use Bore Butter. I find that it keeps fouling soft and keeps things working smoothly.

[@Strengthandconditioning60]

No, no bore butter is no fun at all. You should make your own lube by ordering things off the internet and stuff you get at the hardware and grocery stores. Put it all in your wifes best pot and melt it all down. Now you'll probably burn a few batches along with the pot but it's all in the name of science at this point and you must press on. When you're finished, yes, the final product is something you could have bought in the local gun store in the first place, like bore butter, but you will be the talk of the range as your gun smokes and smells like burnt socks. Happy shooting my friend stick with what you're doing because it's working lol

[@joeykerwin4561]

I tried bore butter and it just got runny in the heat🤷

[@dalesearcy5734]

I was happy that I found this video. Haven't shot my old 1858 for many years but I'm itching to shoot it again now. I will try to get some of the Cabela's wads first though. They look like a great product for shooting black powder revolvers. Thanks' Duston for this video. It was very helpful.

[@dd-nv6sw]

Good information, thanks for posting!👍

[@ralphperez4862]

Excellent information. Thanks Dustin. Shoot on.

[@hazcat640]

Very interesting. Once again a great, informative vid, Dustin.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

Thanks!

[@SlickSixguns]

I have never used wads before but I’ll have to give it a try especially since it doesn’t look as goopy. Thanks for the info

[@Kaufeetimevideo]

You bet I'm buying some. Thanks for sharing this product. I kinda gave up black powder pistol because of the mess. Seems the wads make all clean up easier.

[@Chookvw]

felt wads were good enough for Elmer Keith, so they're good enough for me. Another great video Dustin!

[@martindalby3941]

Really enjoying the content. Specially as I'm just getting in to BP shooting.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

Thanks for watching!

[@madmechanic7976]

Even Black Powder everything is flying off the shelves.

[@robbenmitchell7949]

Cabals is selling them daily, and they are very low on supplies as well.

[@robbenmitchell7949]

@@addchannelname3160 probably like Toilet paper horders

[@taurushipointenthusiast1306]

Well I bought 6 yards of felt, make my own lube and Harbor Freight offers a hole punch kit for $9, I no longer wait for shelves. Well Primers/Caps yes I need those back on shelf, $20 for 100 caps and $20 on a "Hazmat Fee" to rich this poor old of no privledge

[@donaldkidderiii9876]

@@addchannelname3160 I bet it's people like me giving up on finding primers but still wanting to go shooting so black powder is a new hobby

[@rwbimbie5854]

Wads are handy for taking up cylinder space in moderate / plinker loads for Brass frame fun shoots

[@Yosemite-George-61]

Nice test... Thanks !

[@Cyotis]

Thanks for the info!

[@SmallCaliberArmsReview]

My favorite BP revolver! Well, the only one I own.......currently! I use the Cabelas wads, I like 'em. Great video!

[@teufeldritch]

The Rem NMA is my favorite as well. It's a beautiful gun.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

Thanks for watching!

[@tomgensel4134]

Good stuff right there. Thanks 👍

[@rebelrailroader]

I use both wads and lube. The gun stays very clean a lot longer.

[@heartoflions7138]

Great video!

[@TheStraycat74]

I use a 12mm gasket punch for my home made lubed wads. a hair bigger than .44, but close enough for plinking

[@williamnye478]

Remingtons just love grease! Lots of grease! Don't get me wrong, the wads work okay. But grease seems to ease off the cylinder jamming a bit. But then, so does a well placed dollop of spit!

[@georgeholt8929]

Dustin, There is another method of loading of the revolver's cylinder. This method is similar to the method that is used in cartridge loading. After dropping the powder you place a fiber wad over the powder and compress that with the loading lever, then to place a measured amount of soft lube over top of the fiber wad, and on top of the lube you seat the round ball or conical and use the loading lever to press the ball or bullet to touch the fiber wad. Of course this method can be modified again with the addition of soft lube being placed over top of the loaded cylinder if the ball isn't coated in lube, but if you use a bullet with grease grooves then this added lube would not be needed.

[@michaelbrooker1433]

I like the new format! I would like to point out though that black firearms do not film well on white backgrounds, the white overwhelms the camera, it shuts the aperture down resulting in the firearm appearing as a black silhouette, details of it are lost. A grey or tan background works better.

[@Matzah1982]

I totally agree with this. I've always found that wads work better. I even share about that in my video review of my uberti 1860 army revolver

[@timesthree5757]

Yea no thank you. Hate wads.

[@samwalker7821]

I been using pre-lubed wads for a long time but place them over the bullet. With Hodgen 777 almost no fouling and accuracy seems the same as a wad under the ball. Works for me!

[@michaelgillen1867]

Would wads have the same positive effect on conicals? And would it be overkill to use a lubricated wad and lube the groves on a Lee conical?

[@minigarandkid3006]

Seems pretty simple. Each wad after the first shot will also clean the barrel as well as lubricate it. Just bought my first Colt Navy. Going to go with wads and Slip 2000. Wish me luck.

[@chrisharmon5309]

The lubed wads are good if your shooting right away, but if you store your guns with a lubed wad, the oils from the lubed wads seeps into the gun powder and will prevent it from firing. Bore butter is great, but you also have to be shooting right away cause it will melt out quick, especially on a hot day.

[@williammccaslin8527]

I've always used .454 wonder wads pre lubricated an have always gotten outstanding accuracy an the benefit of having my bore seasoned an cleaned by the wad an bore butter over the chamber after its loaded, an I wonder if cabelas brand isn't made by wonder wad, as wonder wads are surprisingmy thick to.

[@ArizonaGhostriders]

Look at the recoil on that puppy! Glorious.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

Gotta love it! Thanks, Santee!

[@garyruxton5226]

Yup, like my Ruger Old Army when I top it off.

[@ShaddySoldier]

I wouldnt have thought the wads would do so well and cleaning, because its it's disk I'd except it to tumble over when goings through the barrel and not making full contact

[@dennisdanich7190]

No lube is necessary but if you want a good seal top off with a 12mm card was made from wine case bottle seperators, I add a lube at times by scraping the was on a 50/50 beeswax coconut oil mix by weight. If you want to keep loaded for months add the poly tubing rings made from .160 I'd poly tubing available at most home hardware stores, cut them about 1/8 " long push on the cap, I use a stick from a spring clothes pin, an then seat the cap with the stick, do not use your finger, the tubing will during around the joint of the cap and nipple. This makes a good seal. Le

[@KathrynLiz1]

I always used wool-felt wads with RBs wit great success. If you plan to have the gun loaded for a long time before shooting it (days or more) them a paper or thin card disc over the powder can help with possible charge contamination, especially in hot weather...

[@rsoleighton5608]

That's why I run a dry wad on top of powder with a mix of lamb tallow and bees wax on top of the ball.

[@BogeyTheBear]

I saw some video on KZbin where the side blast removed lube from the adjacent chambers when the gun fired. It made me consider lubricated wads as the more reliable option if the charge happens to seat the round close to the mouth or if the lube in question is especially soft (as with someone using Crisco instead of a stiffer tallow/beeswax mix). The sixth round would have it the worst, being exposed to the side blast twice (from the first chamber as well as the fifth). Then again, it would be kind of hard for the last round in the gun to set off a chain fire...

[@timesthree5757]

You put alot of gun greese in the chamber. I hate wads. I had a couple chain fires with wads. Never any with greese in the chambers.

[@blackpowdershooter44]

I've found wads to be just more convenient than over bullet lube, and after seeing your video I'm glad to know they actually do help with accuracy. Good stuff!

[@clinxeo5702]

BlackPowderShooter 44 well you can’t store it for a long time, due to lube from the patches contaminating the bp

[@bloodking73]

I just squirt a little bore butter into the chambers, works well for me, quicker and is less messy, plus i dont get stuff on my hands like i would with even the wads

[@aurteekay6339]

Man I can’t wait till my priming compound and my punch comes in the mail so I can start making percussion caps. I’ve always been a conversion cylinder guy because I could never find caps but I’ve had powder and round balls for a while now I’ll be able to get the caps together soon and I’ll be able to shoot the holy powder ! 👍

[@paultrimble9390]

Hello. Still learning. I’m going go get another bp pistol dad sold his years ago. Now me and son have them gonna put one back in pops hands. Just wondering should get buffalo that what he had. Anyway good video

[@dennisdanich7190]

Since my last comment I modified my wads, I put a was made from the liners seperators from wine cases, bottom was goes in dry, ball, then a was scraped on the lube put in lube down, this works well and no mess carrying a loaded gun

[@chrisharmon5309]

Man, what? Are you drinkin the wine too? I really want to knownwhat your tryin to say here cause incarry mine loaded everywhere and am completly open to new/better ideas.

[@Ballenxj]

Hard to argue with store bought wads? They do seem a bit cleaner. Thumb up.

[@jaysmith7769]

It might be superfluous & redundant, but I ALWAYS use both. I was doing that to prevent chain fires, as well as lube. I'm not sure it's necessary to prev ent chain fires, but I just got in the habit of doing it. I do use OxYoke Revolver Wonder Seals, over the ball, and wad. Thanks for sharing your research with us.

[@mannys9130]

If you grease the nipple threads, use tight fitting caps, and use tight fitting balls/bullets that shave a ring of lead off when seated, you will never have chainfires. You only need a wad or paste lube, not both.

[@BogeyTheBear]

Honestly, the only problem with doing both is cost.

[@megatrends]

I'm also a proponent of the Cabela's wads because they bare thicker and loaded with lubricant to the point that after seating them in the chambers there is a hefty amount of residue squeegeed off them around the perimeter of the chamber opening. I've tried wonder wads and a couple of other popular wads and did not like them that thin.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

I agree. Those thin wads are almost the same as using nothing. Thanks for watching!

[@nojustno1216]

Right on. I use the same and with a 42 gr charge (best accuracy for my gun) I stack two and place the ball with a bb sized measure of lube under the ball. My Uberti Walker shoots 1.5 in groups at 25 yards using this method.

[@kowalski363]

Great video

[@Chronoholix]

Excellent videos my friend. Thank you. Question: what can i lube my dry wads with? Some WD40? Motoroil?

[@GunsOfTheWest]

I would use this same stuff or just some bore butter. Nothing petroleum-based.

[@jeffcombs1297]

Do you do and with modern muzzle loaders like CVA or Traditions rifles just for an comparison

[@frankbaker9117]

Lube works well on my original mod. 1849 pocket colt. Gun works better with the lube, than without lube, I also use it on my Navy colt, and my Army colt .never had any problem.🤠👍

[@Waterdog5779]

Thank you.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!

[@WORRO]

Good video buddy, thumbs up ~John

[@jakewayrewa5201]

Hey Dustin! I see a coach gun in your intro...have you done a video on it yet? I got a coach gun about three weeks ago and have been squirrel hunting with it for the past three Saturdays. I need to shoot a few more before I can afford to eat them...right now they're about $100 each! I've been using factory ammo, but have a few loaded up with Pyrodex and fiber wads. Will pattern them next time I get a chance. I'm interested in if the fiber wads give less dense patterns than modern plastic cup wads.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

It’s actually a modern version of the side-by-side shotgun, but I’ll do a video on it in the future. Thanks for watching!

[@dennisdanich7190]

12 mm arch punches are available at McMaster Carr for $30.00

[@larrywilson1783]

My uncle had a 1858 Army revolver that I think was a ruger reproduction. He shot it so much that he could shoot it as accurate as I shot my 6in. 586 Smith and had shot it a lot too. At 25 yards it was really good.

[@rickthompson1422]

Probably a Ruger Old Army model. I've owned one for 35+ years....44 caliber. .457 diameter ball. Beautiful pistol. Long discontinued.

[@6Sally5]

Thanks Dustin! I am just now getting into making .36 cal paper cartridges for my home-made Manley Cartridge Former (as you know, Cliff Manley passed so they aren’t available). I don’t see anybody incorporating them into the cartridges....have you?

[@drewnelson2376]

I’ve read that some people seat a thin cork wad above the powder, then some lube, then the bullet. Sounds like it’s worked pretty well

[@Ambaryerno]

Now what about a Johnston and Dow conical with the grooves lubed?

[@cheddarchip1013]

Could you do a video on the brass “Colt Style bullet molds” like you know, the 2 cavity ones from Pedersoli . Since there aren’t any videos of people casting bullets with them on KZbin, and since they’ve historically came in cased colt sets?

[@GunsOfTheWest]

I’ll take a look at how easy they are to find and how much they are. Thanks for watching!

[@garyfoltzer6618]

Those brass molds are mostly for show! None that I ever had cast a perfect ball or bullet and not the correct diameter for sure. Save your money and purchase Lyman or Lee or RCBS set.

[@bunkstagner298]

could it be that the heat of combustion vaporizes the lube in the wad keeping the fouling softer? I use home made wads in both .44 and .36 guns and have for a long time. Sometimes I will also put lube over the first chamber to grease the clean on the first shot of the day.bore. My lube is beef tallow and paraffin wax 50:50. I live in beef country no stinkin' sheep herders allowed! Thanks for the work Dustin I enjoy your videos.

[@Rusted_Link]

I'm planning on using the pre lubricated wads. Can they soak or make wet the black powder causing it to not fire or become less effective if stored in this manner for long (a month or so) durrations?

[@chrisharmon5309]

You are exactly right!!

[@adamdavis1737]

I always use wads. I shoot .44 and there's always enough room for a wad. Only in say a standard Colt cylinder does it get a bit tight but you can still get 30 grains. Remington or the Walker there's no issue at all. Bore butter and the like is just too messy for my liking and it's a myth that it'll prevent a chainfire

[@GunsOfTheWest]

I agree about the Bore Butter. The only time I’ll use it as a bullet lube is in the cold of winter when it’s not runny. This lube I’m using is very firm. Thanks for watching!

[@adamdavis1737]

@6 6 sure didn't prevent my chainfire The only bloody time I decided to use lube over the chamber mouth rather than wads was the only time I've ever experienced a chainfire Sounds like whatever gun you're describing someone isn't putting the proper size bullet in it The proper size projectile is all it needs to seal the front of the chamber. Colt's original instruction manual for these guns never said grease up the front of the cylinder, it just said put powder and a bullet in it. I submit the majority of people's chain fires are actually coming from the rear with loose or generally ill fitting caps

[@blackpowderfirearmenthusia3194]

I use both. And I shoot a 1860 Army, 1851 Navy and a 1858 Remington all Piettas. And I can shoot 60 rounds and barrle still looks good

[@brianpartlow5530]

I'm new, I bought an 1851 navy, I bought a little bit of everything, wads, lube, I haven't even fired yet. Just watching videos and waiting for nicer weather. I'm gonna try both. The lube softens the fouling and the wad helps push it through the barrel right?

[@stevensheldon9271]

Could be that the wad is keeping the ball closer to the front of the chamber, so less jump to the rifling.

[@rodcoulter997]

Excellent……A+

[@paulbarela6548]

My question is can I put a felt wad on top of the ball like the traditional method of lube on top. I have to go out and try just had not used wads so I am waiting for my order.

[@lisar3006]

I have found I have had better accuracy out of my Uberti and pietta 1860 Army revolvers with old style lube over the wads.

[@mechredd]

I'm willing to bet that with the traditional method, much of the grease gets blown out of the cylinder gap, reducing its effectiveness. Some of the grease will also stick to the ball, throwing off its balance and aerodynamics. The wad will stay together when crossing the cylinder gap. It will also help pickup some lead and powder residue left behind from the previous shot while also lubricating the bore. As for accuracy, the wad will probably separate from the ball upon leaving the barrel, and if it doesn't, it may have a drag stabilization effect on the ball, similarly to how many shotgun slugs work.

[@BogeyTheBear]

The bore is rifled. Any lube on the ball will be thrown sideways into the groove once it starts spinning (and it doesn't start spinning until it crosses past the forcing cone). Aerodynamic forces will strip away a wad from the bullet immediately upon exit. Unless you mistakenly soaked the wads in horse glue.

[@josefrobbins8781]

Howdy Dustin, I had a couple questions. 1. I noticed you did an accuracy test, but what I’d like to know if the wadding compromises or improves projectile speed? 2. Can a wad be used in tangent with lube? If so, will this keep the bore even cleaner than just using 1 lubrication method? 3. Since Black Powder Revolver loads can still be fired if stored for months, and hypothetically years if stored in proper conditions and sealed tight with a traditional lube load...would a Wad load compromise a stored load? The reason being that the lube is compressed inside the cylinder with the black powder, as opposed to the traditional external Lubricated load. Questions like these always buzz in my mind. Can’t be helped when watching black powder content. Sorry for the long read, love the vids, keep em comin, and I’ll keep watchin!

[@brianalbee4153]

I have heard of instances of the oils and beeswax leaching from wads and ruining the powder in the chamber long term. For anything other than immediate use I'd seat the ball right over the powder. Back in the day caps could be sealed on the nipple before travelling in wet weather. This would be a good long term (loaded) storage option

[@josephhaack5711]

Have you tried making a paper cartridge with an unlined corker felt wad? Also, what is the fowling difference between a powder, lined wad, ball session vs. a paper cartridge dipped/lubed ball session?

[@johnshandloading7907]

So what about the wads that go on top of the bullets? I wonder who uses them. I see them in 'starter kits' and then never see anyone use them in videos. My friend just ordered a new BP revolver and starter kit. I am trying to learn all of this so I can help him. Thanks for the good videos.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

John's Hand Loading Those wads that come in the starter kits are the same as these in the video. They go between the powder and the ball.

[@johnshandloading7907]

@@GunsOfTheWest thanks for the reply. I see they call the second kind "seals" so I assume they use the wad under the bullet and then seal the cylinders with the seals. rmcoxyoke.com/product/ox-yoke-originals-revolver-reload-kit/ Thanks again for the videos and the quick reply.

[@Masteradamant]

I’m here because without quality lubricant, the revolvers only shoot at 450 fps(at least for me). I read that the revolver should shoot at 400-700 fps. I want to see at least 600fps. Lube improved my airgun from 550 to 800fps so I expect it to make the difference.

[@bunkstagner298]

It is possible the heat of the powder burning vaporizes the lube in the wad and that mixes with the fouling. Lube over the ball is like putting your socks on over your shoes. Thanks for the test your hard work is appreciated..

[@BogeyTheBear]

Lube over the ball smears the walls of the bore with a layer of hot oil _before_ the smoke and fouling comes along and coats the metal. Like greasing a griddle before the pancakes go on.

[@bbarton84]

Do you have to keep your homemade lube refrigerated? How long does it last before it goes bad? Thank you.

[@robertstallard7836]

I use the same 50/50 lamb tallow and beeswax formula as Dustin. The trick is the lamb's tallow compared to other tallows; it doesn't really go bad at all. I have tins of the stuff I've had for years and it's the same now as it was when made.

[@chuckaddison5134]

Just getting into BP, so I'm watching a lot of videos and soaking up information. why is lamb tallow preferred? what advantage, if any, does it have over say lard or beef tallow, especially considering the price difference?

[@drewnelson2376]

Lamb tallow doesn’t go bad over time. You can also use a crisco+beeswax mixture as lube.

[@chrisharmon5309]

You can use just about anything for lube so long as its not petroleum based

[@someguy5444]

The wads seem like a pain in the ass, I use crisco oil and it stays solid in even 110f heat of Texas and lube the ball well in my 1851 navy in 44cal.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

Thanks for watching!

[@fdhicks69]

I use Crisco shortening as well.

[@rickthompson1422]

...I'm going to try Crisco...thanks...

[@bluescatreimer]

Dustin, what is your opinion on loading and capping spare cylinders before you go to the range?

[@chrisharmon5309]

I leave mine loaded and capped but with the hammer resting on the open space and not on a cap itself. Mine has been loaded for sometimes 6 months before i finally shoot it. Everytime, i have never had a problem. It shoots everytime. Just keep it away from high moisture areas. My black powder 1858 new army pietta 44 cal is my every day carry. It goes where i go. I have never had an accidental discharge or otherwise. At most, sometimes a persussion cap will not fire, whether thats a factory defect, or moisture seeping in at some point idk, its not a common occurence tho. I use #10 percussion caps, cci remingtons.

[@terrencedaniels7534]

@@chrisharmon5309 conceal carry that big boi👀?

[@elcidcampeador9629]

I am a little confused. When you load these rounds, is the order powder, patch, ball? If so, is there greater risk of chain fire with the patches since you do not have the grease over top?

[@GunsOfTheWest]

That’s the order, but it does not increase the risk of a chain fire. There’s a lot of misinformation floating around about chain fires. The truth is, they are prevented by using correctly-sized balls and caps.

[@elcidcampeador9629]

@@GunsOfTheWest What size ball would you recommend with a .50 cal traditions flintlock? is a .490 with a 0.010 patch sufficent, or should I step up to an oversized ball?

[@michaelcosta879]

Have you ever tried under the ball grease cookies? Smoken Gun was active on a lot of BP forums before his passing. This was his I want to go hooting lube pill mix. One stick paraffin wax, 1/4 wax toilet ring and for hot climates like ours three tablespoons olive oil. Melt it all together and pour it in a dollar store baking pan an 1/8 inch thick. let cool and punch out disks using HF hollow punches. You just put them over the powder add a ball and you are good to go.

[@drewnelson2376]

I’ve heard of this method too. I think as long as your mixture raises the melting point to a sufficient temperature, this won’t negatively impact your powder since it won’t melt and mix with the powder charge.

[@edwardsouza6985]

Hi any estimate on the johnson & dow 44 cal. mold from Lee been to your website your not letting me order one (put in shopping cart)

[@GunsOfTheWest]

I don’t sell those and they’re not on my website. You’ll need to contact Eras Gone Bullet Molds.

[@CK-dt6nx]

I use the wads. Easier, quicker and does the same job of preventing chain firing. Haven't had it happen yet using wads anyway not that it should ever happen using the right ball

[@paulbarela6548]

Wouldn't the lube in the felt between the ball kind of deteriorate(wet it with lube) the powder or make it lease effective.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

Over time, it can. I actually prefer the other lube method for that very reason. If you’re just loading and shooting for fun at the range though, the wads are fine.

[@darrellh1840]

I have the wads in my BP kit but have never used them…maybe…🤷🏻‍♂️

[@douglastardiff1827]

where can i get percusion caps

[@GunDrone]

I have a question. Why are you using full powder charges? Shooting full loads makes the gun get dirty really fast. I also see you not centering the sprue on your cast bullets.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

I don’t want to lighten the loads just to keep the gun a tiny bit cleaner. It will get plenty dirty either way. At this distance, I’m not overly worried about the spruce being exactly centered because I haven’t seen a discernible difference in accuracy. Also, the loading port on this gun knocks the ball around a bit when it’s loaded anyway, so it’s pretty hard to keep it perfectly centered.

[@GunDrone]

@@GunsOfTheWest , yeah loading rods do that. I use swagged round balls as there is no need to fuss with them. Is your 1858 .451 or .454 or .457 diameter. My CVA is a .451 and the Navy Arms(uberty) is a .454.

[@GunsOfTheWest]

GunDrone I actually use .454 in all my .44 revolvers and they work well.

[@GunDrone]

@@GunsOfTheWest , right because most of the latter made BP revolvers all use .454. just for fun i tried to load .454s in the CVA that required .451. on the third loads (18 shots) it was so hard to load I was afraid i'd break the loading rod. As the gun gets dirty it just gets harder and harder to load without the right ammo. Long ago there was also differences in the 36 cal as well with .350 to .380. I have owned both and still have the steel molds.

[@taurushipointenthusiast1306]

What I have learned, weird as it sounds is that the wad acts as a gas seal keeping the pressure even. From your video, I can see where fact is demonstrated....

[@sulaco2122]

Why not do both? Wad over powder and gun butter over the ball at least in range sessions. Might be a good procedure for loaded storage of BP guns. Any concern that the lube from a was might "leak" into the powder and make ignition harder?

[@GunsOfTheWest]

Lube from the wax will definitely contaminate the powder over time. Also, using both methods at once is just unnecessary.

[@garyruxton5226]

Yes, when I'm loaded all day long for wildlife security reasons, I stick a thin card disc under the wad. If I didn't, there will be a blob of goopy unburned powder stuck to the bottom of the fired wads.

[@jasonjulian1]

So what about if using paper cartridges? Can I place a felt wad on top of the cartridge instead a dab of traditional lube?

[@gusr6]

I use filler on top of the powder then an undersized lube cookie, then bullet. Wads are too fiddly with paper cartridges.

[@williamcrawford7982]

And with both?

[@FiReInMyBoNeS9711]

Anyone else have problems with the lubricated wads ruining the powder if you don't shoot soon after loading

[@rickthompson1422]

....personally, I wouldn't leave it loaded...fire them out at the end of the day and clean it, but that's just me...

[@kylebarnard66]

Thought I ordered your lube the other day but haven't received it maybe something happened and didn't order idk but I just went to sight to order percussion cap tool and was gonna grab lube it said was out of stock when you expecting more ?

[@GunsOfTheWest]

I actually have more already and I just updated the website. Here’s the direct link: gunsoftheweststore.com/products/black-powder-bullet-lube-4-oz Thanks for your business!

[@kylebarnard66]

You said to store it loaded the lube was beat way correct to keep put moisture? Would it be good for few months?

[@brandenvorak3340]

Do u have to put the wad between the powder and the ball or can u put it in front of ball like ur homemade lube

[@chrisharmon5309]

Most people prefer it to be between the powder and the ball,,,i think because thats how they typically do it with rifles, u know the wad go over the ball and they stuff it down the barrel? But with our black powder revolvers, it really dont matter man. I have shot mine every which of way. With no grease or lubed wad, just powder and a ball. With the wad in front of the ball, behind the ball...it really dont matter...its gonna shoot. Now accuracy is another story...i think u will get better accuracy with the wad between the powder and ball. Also, my opinion...best way to every day carry is with a felt wad between the powder and ball. As lubed wads tend to seep oils into the powder over time and prevent the powder from igniting. Bore butter works great, except it will melt out on a hotter day. Its a tough decision man, but i guess now we can see the reasons they made them damn semi automatics with those "fixed cartridges "

[@brandenvorak3340]

@@chrisharmon5309 honestly I'm probably not gonna use lube just powder and ball for everyday carry if I can still get my gun rights back.....with Biden I don't no at this time if I will or not.....Got 1 year and 7 months (starting end of month) to wait before I can get my gun rights back if Biden don't screw me and change the law on me

[@ShellShock11C]

Is it bad that I dont use wads or lube?

[@sanman187-]

Where's your video on making your own lubricated wads?

[@RR-zq3mk]

I’m a bit lost. I thought it was muzzleloading 101 it’s powder, patch, ball every time. But when you used lube you skipped the patch. What am I missing. Another video I saw elsewhere was powder lube the top then ram the ball in. So what is correct ?

[@GunsOfTheWest]

Cap & ball revolvers actually don’t load like muzzle loading rifles, so there’s no patch involved. You can use a lubed wad between the powder and ball or just apply lube over the ball after it’s loaded.

[@BogeyTheBear]

There is a major difference between a muzzleloading rifle and a muzzleloading revolver. The projectile in the rifle has to be rammed down the full length of the barrel, and you have to push it past the rifling grooves the whole way through. When you load a revolver, though, you ram the projectile into a chamber that's already behind the barrel and you bypass the rifling grooves entirely-- the first time the shot ever engages the rifling is during the act of firing. For this reason alone, muzzleloading rifles use an undersized projectile and the patch acts as a discarding sabot that closes the gap between lead and the rifling grooves. In a revolver, you use an oversized ball that gets shaved down to the perfect size for the barrel, so a patch isn't needed as there is no gap between the bullet size and the barrel bore diameter. Wads in a revolver were originally intended as a gap filler to make sure the powder gets compacted if the gun's built-in ramrod can't go down far enough. But now they're more likely to be used as a lube delivery component instead.

[@sahmadi1000]

What about if we use both at the same time?

[@BogeyTheBear]

Only problem there is you're using up your supply twice as fast. Better to use one method until you run out, then switch to the other.

[@blackpowderfirearmenthusia3194]

Wow, thank you, I'm going to use lubed wads. Can you do both?

[@GunsOfTheWest]

You can, but there’s really no need. Either method, by itself, is enough. Thanks for watching!

[@garyruxton5226]

I would assume that when you are referring to "traditional" lube you are referring to it being presently used and not forever ago. It is also sad that it is blindly assumed to be a good way to lube the bullets, when one shot blows it all out and it doesn't prevent chain fire anyway. Glad you showed the obvious difference between the 2 methods. In all fairness of the 2 methods, did you clean out the barrel for the next test to have an even starting place for each test.

[@garyruxton5226]

"Historic" method: I have not heard of long ago using a blob of goop on the end of the chambers. Colt never recommended using it. combustable cartridges were the norm and they were wax dipped. Elmer Keith, I believed referred to being told by the old timers when loading by flask, felt wads were used.

[@randallhemingway7284]

Guns of the west store

[@cheddarchip1013]

Here’s the link for that colt mold, it’s a .36 cal one. www.amazon.com/Pattern-Caliber-Bullet-conical-Revolvers/dp/B01LFV7JX8

[@bowiebowie2145]

Hey I have a question why don't you use to button patches one can go on top of the powder got the bullet at and put the other button patch on top of that bullet so you get twice the lubrication then you have with one lubrication wadding so that makes the gun shoot a little bit better knowing that you have to to wad in your gun that will make it better handling

[@mannys9130]

It's just not necessary when 1 lubed wad under the bullet works wonderfully to keep the bore clean.

[@karolmorys7970]

I wonder if one can make paper cartridges with prelubed wads.

[@gusr6]

I use filler on top of the powder then an undersized lube cookie, then bullet. Wads are too fiddly with paper cartridges.

[@carls.6746]

how long can it remain loaded with the wads?

[@chrisharmon5309]

Lubed wads- not long cause the oils from the lube will seep into the gun powder and prevent it from igniting. Felt wads- i think forever. There are stories of people finding over revolvers in their attic and it being loaded (guessing it had been there for years and years with no one knowing, obviously) then firing the loads that were in it and it fired every round no problem.

[@chrisharmon5309]

Also, no wad at all with some regular old criso over the cylinders end will suffice just fine. Back in the old days, some people had neither a wad or grease, they just fired...which is also completly do able...just make a hard mess to clean up and is a bit harder on the gun...but its still not gonna be the end of the guns life by any means. Just dont go firing 50 rounds with no lube.

[@chrisharmon5309]

Gotta keep in mind, these guns were not designed to be sporting guns where people fire round after round after round all day tryin to hit a bulleye. These guns were designed to be fired to save a life if needed on a battle, most times...it was needed and worked great.