Black & White Film Processing

[@jimwlouavl]

Thanks for this. You’re the first to explain why to develop sheet film with the emulsion side down. That makes so much sense.

[@tonysantophotography]

I appreciate you watching Jim! Thanks, Tony

[@eugenekutz7626]

Very nice and informative video! Thanks!

[@tonysantophotography]

Thank you Eugene! I appreciate the kind words. Tony

[@bruceharvey6428]

Nicely done, Tony. Always glad to hear about your B&W work.

[@tonysantophotography]

Thank you Bruce! If you look closely at the negatives in the video, you can see some of the images we talked about. I appreciate your support! Tony

[@derekkonigsberg2047]

One thing I love about the 3010 drum is how efficient on chemistry it is, and how the amount of chemistry you actually need is based almost entirely on how much film you've loaded into it. I've actually run mine with only 250ml of chemistry (only partially full, of course) when wanting to impatiently develop a few shots from a morning outing. Most other daylight 4x5 tanks seem to require an obscene amount of chemistry for the number of sheets they can hold.

[@tonysantophotography]

Derek, that is a very good point! You can't beat the efficiency of the Jobo drums when it comes to chemistry usage. I appreciate your support! Tony

[@bthemedia]

Another thorough and well done film photography video by Tony! 👍 Always enjoy seeing how others setup their own process and Tony’s always seems to be very well refined and efficient!

[@tonysantophotography]

Thank you my friend! I appreciate your very kind words! Tony

[@studiotintypes1818]

great démonstration thank you

[@tonysantophotography]

Thank you!

[@fotolookconde]

I use Rodinal that have a big shelf time as well. Good video, carry on shooting film and developing it!

[@tonysantophotography]

Thanks Luis! I appreciate you taking the time to stop by and watching! Tony

[@benjaminvandine6581]

This is a really quality video Tony, I learned a lot.

[@tonysantophotography]

Thank you Ben! I appreciate your kind words! Glad you found the video useful. Tony

[@Nat.ImagesLarge.F.Photographer]

Great,many thanks!

[@tonysantophotography]

Thanks Nat! I appreciate you taking the time to watch. Tony

[@flipflopsleica]

Thanks for sharing, and great overview. I too use only HC-110 yet still using stop. I'll try distilled water next time. Interesting comment on accumulation of Photo-Flo so will try it out of my tanks.

[@tonysantophotography]

I appreciate your support and for your comments! Thanks! Tony

[@randallstewart175]

Keep using that stop. Using water, as here, doesn't stop anything, and development continues at a reduced rate until the fixer is added. Historically, following development with a water bath, possibly repeating the process again, was an established technique to control contrast by building up the shadow density. Where development time is short, say 5 - 6 minutes, such extended development in a water bath will also amount to an over development, an informal "push" process.

[@jaytayag810]

Great video, as always, Tony! But I think that the reason that you can use water as a stop is because of the fixer, not the developer?

[@tonysantophotography]

Thanks Jay! I appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment! That is a good point! An acidic stop bath does two things: 1) immediately stops development. 2) neutralizes the alkaline developer from exhausting your fixer as quickly. So using water as a stop bath might not be the best if your goal is to reuse and conserve your fixer. :) Tony

[@olafwDE]

Thank you, Tony, for this quite comprehensive walkthrough. You mentioned some details which other tutorials one can find here ignore unfortunately. Only thing missing was the recycling, especially of fixer. Did you ever need to have your processing machine to be serviced? -I'm asking because these- -are no longer sold new (for a while now)- , -and I wonder how long spare parts will be- -available- . [EDIT: sorry, false info, Jobo is still in business!]

[@tonysantophotography]

Olaf, thank you for the kind words. As far as the Jobo is concerned, thankfully it has never needed service. CatLabs does service these machines and has new ones for sale: www.catlabs.info/product/jobo-cpp3. Thanks for watching! Tony

[@olafwDE]

@@tonysantophotography Thank you for the link. Oh wow, Jobo is actually selling these devices, I was pretty sure that there had been a time they didn't. Sorry for spreading outdated, if not "fake" news. :-D ... (will edit my first comment accordingly) www.jobo.com/analog/?ecms_lang=EN

[@tonysantophotography]

@@olafwDE No worries! I appreciate your comments! Tony

[@peterfarr9591]

Great video! I'm wondering what you think about Ilford specifically recommending against a pre wash for their films? They state that a pre wash can actually lead to uneven development.

[@tonysantophotography]

Peter, I've always pre-washed my black and white films, irrespective of manufacturer, and I've never had a problem. Tony

[@peterfarr9591]

@@tonysantophotography makes sense. Do you find you need to adjust development time because of the prewash step?

[@antoniosantophdrdnld126]

@@peterfarr9591 Peter, I don't make any adjustments. I use exactly what you see in this video and have been doing so for over a decade with consistently great results. Hope this helps, Tony

[@megasync5450]

Super

[@tonysantophotography]

Thank for your support! Tony