Forging a simple cabinet handle or drawer pull - basic blacksmithing

[@bc65925]

That second one was not a mistake, it just has some character that the first one does not have and possibly the customer will not find desirable. Or it's a small wall hook needing cut in half. That Swage Block is a dandy that's for sure. And on a final note, a handle on the counter may be handy to get your balance while pouring your Sunday morning coffee after a Saturday night bender.

[@BlackBearForge]

All very good points. I actually think I will cut the bad end off and mare it into a hook.

[@lenblacksmith8559]

Nice work John, I like those tong for holding that handle stock, any chance of one time maybe making a pair of those to show us. That would be awesome mate. Cheers Len.

[@davemoore6690]

John, God bless you for showing us that goober'd handle! EVERYONE gets distracted from time to time, and those things just happen!

[@BlackBearForge]

Thanks. While its frustrating to make some of these mistakes, I feel its important to share the fact that it happens to all of us.

[@ericgreensway362]

Enjoying your content.... Thank you for the time spent and effort. Also glad to see the hand doing better.

[@BlackBearForge]

You are welcome, and yeas the finger is doing much better.

[@trminer]

Going back for a little review. Made some pulls for the museum and the manager liked them a lot, so she asked for more. Nice tutorial, thanks!

[@kensmapleleafretirement]

New Years Eve and my wife and I are watching your videos while everyone is out celebrating. Oddly enough, I think we are the lucky ones. Thank you for the wonderful video, I can see uses for swages in my shop. Gonna give it a try.

[@stustudy2475]

That swedge is worth is weight in gold. Great videos sir

[@glennfelpel9785]

Good training and sure would like to see you cover the little forge it looks quite handy.Thank you for all you do!

[@BlackBearForge]

I have a couple of ideas for small forge videos.

[@williamhamm3013]

Your an amazing blacksmith ive learned so much from your video's and i thank you for being a good teacher.

[@billy19461]

Love your videos. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

[@TheLoneWolfForge]

Thanks for the instruction!

[@BlackBearForge]

You're welcome

[@petertricker792]

Great video John. Think the swage will have paid for itself by the time you've done this batch. 👍👍👌

[@d.gregorybrown7779]

Well done. You have taught me another technique for bending the handles, thank you. I use a hand crank blower which greatly limits the pieces I burn up, but when I use the electric blower it wants my undivided attention. The swage was a great success.

[@BlackBearForge]

Hand blowers do have a big advantage in the regard.

[@ddayinvader6487]

Love the content!! Keep them coming!!!!

[@Willdrummable]

Another great video ! Thanks.

[@richardcook555]

Ah....the tricks of the trade.

[@randallsummers6551]

Not to bad idea. Like you said good for doing a lot of them. Take care and God bless.

[@jamesmcmillen4828]

You just can't beat having a good swedge for a job. Great video. I make a similar cabinet handle by hand. I'll probably be making a swedge pretty soon after seeing yours work out as well as it did.

[@BlackBearForge]

The swedge was a very satisfying project.

[@011CJ]

Thanks again

[@PeopleAlreadyDidThis]

One of the first real-time lessons I learned was burning up a piece in the coal fire. It sure happens fast with small stock! In the few forging sessions since, I’ve only burned up two more....

[@BlackBearForge]

It is easy to do.

[@johnwest4788]

Fascinating. Well done--thank you.

[@ADmyrr]

Hey thanks for your videos I think you picked up where Mark Asprey and ABANA left off thank you again

[@BlackBearForge]

Thank you, that is quite a compliment. Mark is one of the best demonstrators out there.

[@ADmyrr]

Black Bear Forge your welcome

[@WildBoreWoodWind]

Another great vid

[@charlesmay8251]

thanks john another good one!

[@shadowcastre]

Well done! Thanks for the video...

[@alexmclennan3011]

well done

[@joedimech8375]

Hi mate new to your channel great content throughly enjoyed it keep up the videos

[@BlackBearForge]

Welcome to the gang.

[@5x535]

Extremely interesting/informative video John, thank you. I really appreciate you sharing the burned up handle at the end. How many times am I going to have to learn to never put something into a coal fire and then allow myself to get distracted? I wonder if you would share with us what happened the first two times that you attempted the jump weld for the swedge tool. Was there a lesson learned in the first two attempts that we could profit from?

[@BlackBearForge]

I am glad you liked the video. The first two attempts just didn't stick, I don't think I had the higher carbon piece quite hot enough.

[@Dominic.Minischetti]

Would it be worth the time to make a swedge that is the shape of the entire piece and form the piece on the power hammer? A lot of work up front, but you could bang them out in minutes and they would all be exactly the same. What do you think?

[@BlackBearForge]

You could certainly do these under the power hammer, but I don't think it would be just a matter of putting a piece of raw stock in a swedge and banging them out. You would still need to shape the finials and start the taper in the handle before going to a swedge. A series or tools under the power hammer would make the job faster if you needed to make enough to justify making the tooling.

[@ronthacker211]

BENDING JIG = Oh YES. do it.

[@sdcb27]

I would REALLY like to see you put refractory over that wool, if anything for safety reasons. That wool has particles that are a minute barb. Every time you turn it on it blows those particles around from gas. We already have a ABS mastersmith who has a ongoing lung issue which is believed to be from breathing in those particles from a non refractory forge which barb in the lungs and do not absorb. He has had a hell of a time the last few years near to life threatening.

[@BlackBearForge]

While i understand what you are saying and agree that ceramic wool should be treated with a coating or ridgidizer, I use ITC-100 and will be coating this forge lining before it goes into service in the shop. Your statement is essentially incorrect and may be confusing or misleading to people that don't know what you are referring to. The ceramic wool is the refractory for this forge. Putting refractory over it could just as easily mean a second layer of the ceramic wool. ITC-100 and Satanite are coatings used to seal and ridgidize the refractory and while they are a form of refractory they serve a specific purpose. The term refractory includes a wide range of products from ceramic wool, ceramic boards, castable, ramable, soft brick and hard brick. None of which would be the proper thing to coat the kaowool with. Perhaps I'm being picky, but proper terminology can be very important.

[@sdcb27]

If semantics are in question I would suggest its you that has it backward, the wool is just that, an insulation and ITC100 IS a refractory that actually refracts heat. Ie from ITC Coatings inc Manufacture website "Re-reflects Radiant Heat and Saves Energy,Achieve a higher cone with less energy" where as Kao Wool and like products are FROM THE MANUFACTURE "High Heat resistance to 2300 degrees". Where Satinite, though labeled a refractory is little more then alumina mortor. There are MDS ratings with specifics to refractablity for both direct heat and infrared if one wants to look. Regaurdless to any of it having a uncoated fire insulation blowing particles into your lungs is highly dangerous in long term health. I greatly enjoy and appreciate your videos thank you for taking that time

[@eddylonergan142]

hello John Eddy from Holland Europe.I like watching craftsman,Question- I saw a clip where you all met up at a smithies and made some engraving tools.Would i be wrong in saying if you made a swedge and engraved it.would that not save a lot of time in individually decorating them or would the metal not be hot enough to take the decoration.if you get what i mean.

[@BlackBearForge]

If you engrave the the inside it would leave raised lines on the final forging which would be fine if you wanted that. Having any detail of that sort does require that you keep your position in the die exact or the piece ends up with multiple partial impressions. For this swedge I felt it would be more versatile without the added decorations. I have seen old example with more detail, so it doers work.

[@towelltom]

Love your videos. what size is the table in front of your anvil is

[@BlackBearForge]

I am not sure what table you are asking about.

[@sleepingbear7182]

Thought I was the only one who burnt stock in the coal forge.

[@BlackBearForge]

Nope I’m very good at it.

[@lenblacksmith8559]

John what size stock are you using for the handle?

[@BlackBearForge]

This is 1/4 x 1/2 x 4”

[@lenblacksmith8559]

John you sure they're 4 inches long, look longer in there and I just cut some at 4 inches and boy it looks small.??

[@BlackBearForge]

Pretty sure. That is the measurement for the completed handle after the bend. They are longer prior to bending

[@lenblacksmith8559]

Ohh yeah that's what I meant mate, how long originally when you first cut the stock?

[@lenblacksmith8559]

John when u use that little gas forge, you better cover that kaowool first mate, to protect your lungs.