Blackening Steel With Motor Oil - Dean's How-To

[@MrWoofie62]

This is exactly how I watched my dad & grandpa do it on the farm when I was a kid in the 60s & then how I was shown in a metal shop at school in the 70s. I remember my teacher showing surprise that I already knew what I was doing.

[@pharaon6718]

How the hell you old now

[@kalebhowatt6380]

this is just a estimate but I'm gonna say he was born around 1958 and if you add 64 that equals out two 2022 which is what it currently is so the estimate is hes about 64 years old, hope im close

[@claudiodominguez.]

@@pharaon6718 said the mortal

[@PendeltonWhiskey]

@@claudiodominguez. the semi-illiterate mortal

[@dsimbolon1630]

Ok boomer

[@gangleweed]

Been doing this method since the mid 70's and I can guarantee the finish is long lasting.....the trick is to not overheat the repeated dipping coatings or the oil finish will burn off.....about 300deg C is good......the finish is almost like hard baked enamel that resists rusting. It works well with new oil too as the oil "cooks" and turns black like your cooking pots do when they get aged and have a baked on black finish that is almost impossible to scrub off.

[@jonniejam-shovel6405]

Thanks Ian.👍

[@PaKePo]

Good to know. Do you know if this method can be used for stainless steel? I want to dye my Swiss army knife.

[@gangleweed]

@@PaKePo Yes, any metal will work as it's the oil that goes like a "toasted" varnish coat and you can get it almost to a black but usually a dark brown.

[@ZacharyFolwick]

Would you say a kitchen oven on high is good enough?

[@gangleweed]

I don't think so.......the temperature is probably more in the 300 deg C mark. but as you do get your cooking pots a brown colour from the baked on oils in the food It's worth a try but it might be very dodgy handling hot metal and dipping in oil.that smokes a lot. @@ZacharyFolwick

[@jidissafi7413]

Thanks for the video! Looking forward to trying this on the next thing I need done. I used the other "surface rust" technique to blacken some thumb screws for my mill a while back and it didn't work worth a crap. They looked good at first, but the black soon started to flake off into a messy powder. Hopefully this will hold up better.

[@tedlarson2078]

I’m friends with a black oxide shop owner. I take anything I want over there and do it myself after he closes up before everything cools down. This technique is great to know

[@joelcecil4900]

Nice video. I’ve done this to antiq-ify some new steel hardware for an old piece of furniture. Only I heated the part in a small vice and poured oil over it to cool it. Turned completely black.

[@TheSuburban15]

Don't do this until after you are finished cutting your part. This process can case harden some carbon steel alloys.

[@deandrake]

Thanks for adding your comment. I suspected this was true, but I never tested the hardness before vs. after.

[@MrBostjanVidmar]

Hardening requires a temperature of 800 to 900 ° C (1,500 to 1,650 ° F) depend on material, at this temperature steel glows with cherry red color. Here is nowhere near that temperature.

[@ripsumrall8018]

@@MrBostjanVidmar He's talking about case hardening, not the same as heat treating. But a hardness test could be easily done.

[@marcomartinez171]

Dear Dean: Thank you very much for your technical advice, it serves me in great way. I also want to correspond

[@kalebhowatt6380]

Haven't done it yet but he'll this is alot easier then I'd thought it be

[@harnesswinergy9785]

Thanks sir, was eagerly searching net to find the best and cheap way to blacken steel. Thanks once again. And yes i have subscribed and liked as well

[@mariefoley9780]

Linseed oil works good too. The boiled linseed oil can leave a yellow tint to it so i believe the unboiled linseed oil is better. Best of luck to you.

[@jrdeckard3317]

1:40 Take care not to scratch it. So he picks it up with a pair of Channel locks and scratches it.

[@alvarogabrielaguirregarin3933]

This is a side by side comparison between non scratched & scratched steel.

[@djangokill65]

LOL! I was thinking the same thing.

[@nilsjohnsen7336]

Nice vid man 👍 Does it work with stainless steel also?

[@chadrudolph1596]

Does it scratch off easy? Does it work on stainless steel?

[@simondoutre6225]

I tried this on my white iphone, wanted it 2 be black... Worked perfectly

[@godblessamerica99]

Doesn't work on Samsung. Only Apple products, anything over $800.

[@dustinchambers4172]

If you do this with a blade that's all ready been forged and tempered you're probably gonna remove any temper from it and you'll have to re-temper it.

[@burgerthief5333]

Yessir, you have to lose your temper and get angry at again. :)

[@barnabyvonrudal1]

​@@burgerthief5333took me a second to get it 😂

[@will5286]

It’s basically just “ bluing” with funky used oil so it turns deeper black instead-IMHO-use fresh oil fora really nice finish

[@detroitpyro2859]

Does this work on Stainless steel??

[@Frambhueee]

With polished stainless steel you can bluing with a permanent marker black pen,: take the steel piece, painted with the black marker, then heat it well, and if you done well the black wount come of if you scratch it with you'r nails

[@deandrake]

I should try that sometime.

[@WillEDC]

Has one tried if this works hehe. Sounds too simple but worth a try

[@lazycarper]

if this works your a god,

[@Swenthorian]

Won't that affect the temper though?

[@Pointlesshandle48]

I have some old cheap channel lock pliers I’m going to try this on.

[@lucioweht2161]

This has to be before or after termicall treatment ? I want to do a knife but i dont Know in what moment i supose to do this

[@TheOneAndOnlySame]

Put objects in oven max temp, once they're at temp they'll look straw color, quickly take one out with pliers and heat it up with torch to blue ands then quench in oil . Repeat for each objects. Especially most useful when you do several objects at the same time, and doing more complex objects (-with thin, and thick parts) that could heat up too unevenly by using a blowtorch from the start . That way you won't use up your torches and it's much faster when you do several items in a batch.

[@medievilassassin]

So is this a prevention to rust? Or is just a visual type of thing ? Sorry for my ignorance

[@deandrake]

It's mostly for aesthetics. I wouldn't consider it rust prevention.

[@ToyoteroMundial]

Do you think it will work with a knife clip? Or will it rub out into the jeans waist band and shirt?

[@dakota-joel7590]

How tough is the blackening? Enough for tooling or hatchets? Does it hold up somewhat?

[@deandrake]

I'm not sure, but I think that quenching the steel has a tendency to temper it somewhat. I think for tooling, you'd want to start with tool steel anyway. I'm not a metallurgist though, so I'm just throwing in my opinions. I haven't done any testing as for hardness. I just know how the finished product looks.

[@stayhumble1234]

How do I apply it on industrial pipes ? Does it work with a brush or I have to sink the pipes completely in oil ?

[@albaniannationalist8901]

a friend taught me this way 15 years ago

[@Manish-fm5iv]

do you think this would work with the galaxy active 2?

[@stevepaul6709]

FUCK AHAHA

[@SMARTTECHSOLUTIONS-Mumbai]

Hello sir ... Can I process this on silver jewellery

[@bkirkbir]

I did try to cold blue couple of nuts, after a while they got covered by a thin layer of rust, which goes with a wipe. Do you have any idea why this is happening?

[@chelgerson]

Because you either didn't : 1.Seal the piece afterwards AND - OR- 2. Use a base like baking soda water to neutralize the acidic blueing.

[@genin69]

only problematic part of this process is the heating. any hardened steel might loose its temper. so prob a 90% only use for mild steel? I cant see any other steels will be the same afterwards

[@tobization]

Lose, not loose.

[@blooobish]

you could try using an oil with a low smoke point, and heat the steel below tempering ranges (most commonly in the low 400's f for edged tools). i've heard you can also use beeswax, tho dont know the specifics on the recommended temp.

[@krismcleod272]

Trying to do 3 small brackets, thin steel. Coming out with a blotchy finish and various hues of black. Were cleaned and degreased before hand. Using dirty engine oil. Any ideas?

[@egger46]

Your parts may be too hot. If you over heat them you'll get a spotty bluing.

[@mikes6961]

Nice, is it durable?

[@lovera3878]

Hello Can this be used to blacken old tools such as he ones found in antique stores. I have many I would like to restore without having to paint them.

[@tommykirrane2409]

The heat will compromise the tool.

[@chrishayes5755]

tools are tempered. when you heat them like in this video you'll lose the hardness, turning it back to mild steel.

[@theonlybuzz1969]

Anyone else done this to used horse shoes reworked into other goods for a good rust proof/ blackened finish? Just thought I'd ask before I try it...have a good weekend all.

[@djratino]

My riding mower hitch pin has gotten rusted. I'll try this method to get it black again. I don't have any gun blue.

[@markshi7052]

Do you dip steel in oil before you heat it up?

[@claritoresdiano1021]

That's to prevent oxidation right? or just change the color?

[@lukeshoot]

can i use this to coat the exterior of a smoker ? smoker as in bbq smoker

[@omg_wtf]

Does this work with other metals ? I want to turn my guitar frets black

[@jelljell7871]

Wow , this method is patent to you . Do you think it will work for silver ?

[@robert-dv1un]

I was just thinking the other day about how boiling silver in vinegar would turn out. I saw a video of a guy using that technique to add patina to a knife.

[@neilconfesor9845]

Does it mean the darker the oil,the black it gets??

[@JonathanHilierChannel]

Is this an effective against rust? I have quite a few old metal tools that have developed surface rust, which I would like to remove with a bit of acid then blacken.

[@TheGamersRace]

Using acid will make the metal more susceptible to rust in the future, but the blackening is definitely going to help prevent rust. I would recommend, for steel tools, to use a brass or steel brush to remove as much rust as possible.

[@carlogesualdi8972]

yes sir

[@smokingcrab2290]

Any way to do this with a big batch of small parts?

[@kristofnagy1574]

Hi, i got an old russian "multitool" (an axe and and a showel in one) that has rust on it, i think it was oil burned in the factory. Does anyone know how i can treat it with this method when i need it to be rust and wearproof?

[@tjahajasuryadinata4432]

Burnishing like this doesn't make it rustproof and wearproof, it'll offer some protection but you still need to remove any moisture.

[@ClintsHobbiesDIY]

Very good to the point vid.

[@dokkasou]

Can I blacken Knife Scales using this method? Would it affect the SS in any way?

[@jbone9900]

Stainless doesn't work nor does aluminum.

[@edialbert8035]

Thanks for sharing! You have a new subscriber 😁

[@muhammadahmad1851]

Does it works well with iron?

[@PhysicsViolator]

Is the motor oil used ?

[@anotherOneMore7]

Are you sure it is the oil that makes it 'black?' I think it is the heat that does that. The oil is just giving a way to uniformly cool the item, making the temp even throughout, and doesn't play a part in the resulting color. If I am wrong, help me understand how the process you describe is any different than what is called bluing?

[@deandrake]

I need to look into this (as in actually trying clean motor oil). If I remember right, I tried it with clean oil and didn't get the same effect, but that was many years ago so maybe I should redo the experiment.

[@Miguel-ki5qg]

tbh I figured it was oil polymerizing like when you season a cast iron pan

[@thrashsuxballs]

How durable is the finish? Is this as long lasting as “powder coated” finishes? Also does this need like a clear coat over it? It’s not something I could just scratch off with my nail is it?

[@shawnmatthews5118]

How deep does the oil penetrate?

[@asiongsalonga9682]

Work on mildsteel?

[@charlescarr3909]

I'm about to attempt this with a revolver cylinder. Mainly just to prevent rust because it's polished. We'll see if a temp below 300 degrees in the oven will give it any color change.

[@deandrake]

Yeah, I was about to say don't heat this up to cherry red. If the heat isn't high enough, you might not get the desired effect though. I recently used this method and didn't heat the metal high enough and it wasn't dark enough, so I redid it at a higher temperature, which worked better.

[@charlescarr3909]

@@deandrake well the cylinder is from a rough rider 22 revolver. I only went to 270 for about 20 mins. Cleaned it with CLP left a light coat on baked it then dropped it straight into a cup of used oil. No color change but I'm sure that's because I can't exceed certain heat limits. Definitely even after a complete wipe down that oil penetrated the pored of the metal and left a slightly slick coating that won't come off. Hopefully it will never rust ever now.

[@charlescarr3909]

@@deandrake I put the polished cylinder in the oven for about 15-20 mins at 270 degrees. Took it straight out and submerged it into a coffee cup of black used oil. Gave it absolutely no color change. I'm thinking the higher temps are required for the metal to do that. Have you ever heard if this process only needs to be done once for rust protection or like on a maybe annual basis? The cylinder Chambers did not change at all no timing issues or warping. Definitely not worst case scenario.

[@frigglebiscuit7484]

@@charlescarr3909 you having rust issues as well on your rough rider? mine looks HORRIBLE.

[@charlescarr3909]

@@frigglebiscuit7484 I kinda did it to myself. The finish was so light on the cylinder I wire wheeled it and polished it. I keep it nice and wet with CLP during storage but it still dries up and rusts. My next step will be a light coat of high temp grease.

[@HeckerAirsoft]

ive tried but my steel either goes orange after bluing or starts sweating blue liquid any ideas why

[@sdjnwhyNZ]

I did this to my pin punch and no mushroom shown within two years until I used it too hard one day and chipped off the hardened part.

[@chefmike4414]

Could I blacken a motorcycle chain? Can I use an oven set to 500°, would that be hot enough? Thanks

[@deandrake]

I wouldn't try this because it could damage or change the metal, causing failure. You have to get it much hotter than 500 degrees.

[@chefmike4414]

Thanks got it.

[@heisnamelizaa8231]

motor oil means, engine oil or ???

[@gtaseed]

By discoloration (the one that appears when it's ready to br quenched) you mean the yellowish tint or the blue one? Also, would this be food safe? I'm afraid the chemicals bound to the steel finish would leech out if in contact with food or liquids. I would like to apply this finish to some steel dinner plates and some vape caps. Thanks!

[@deandrake]

Heat it until it turns from yellowish to blue hue. Some people heat it until it's cherry red (hot), but that's unnecessary unless you want a heat treatment quench (temper). You risk a flare-up though. You could use this for tools, decorative fixtures or firearms hardware, but I would never use it for items that come into contact with food because of the toxins in used motor oil. The way I've had it explained to me is that when you heat the steel, it expands and opens up microscopic "pores" on the surface and when you quench it, it traps the carbon molecules when it cools. So, you might experiment with food grade vegetable oil blended with finely divided charcoal for the same effect. That wouldn't be toxic.

[@Wailwulf]

To make it safe (or at least safer) is use cooking oils, like Olive Oil. It is the way Cast Iron is blackened for cooking. My cast iron has a great blackened sheen from the Olive Oil I use to blacken it with (and cook with).

[@gpweaver]

You can blacken food-grade items in your oven--coat them liberally in vegetable oil (you can add powdered carbon, such as graphite, if desired); set your oven to 300 degrees, and put the item in for an hour. Remove, repeat. You'll get a nice seasoned coat on item that will darken with applied layers. However, scrubbing with soapy water and abrasive will gradually remove the coating.

[@darkshadow756]

Just use it with cooking oil there is a youtuber that already tried it and it works

[@MIHMediaInc]

@@deandrake thank for the cooking worthy tip 🙏👏

[@JamesEast-iy3ov]

How would it work for AK mags?

[@srw_cricket2976]

Is this method good to blacken steel lug nuts?

[@20alphabet]

So you can't spray clear coat on it afterwards? Or can you?

[@deandrake]

I don't see why you can't - as long as you clean the excess motor oil off first.

[@20alphabet]

@@deandrake Thank you

[@paulkorakas8778]

how about the green copper rust, on steel. can teach us? any way evey efford, is wellcomed. pavlos the greek

[@sarachitamang6840]

Sir litter mor can't sining? please

[@davebalaam]

Would this work with stainless steel, or only mild steel?

[@jbone9900]

Mild steel thats raw meaning no coating currently on it.

[@matthewmcdonald4222]

So it won't work with stainless steel? And if it's coated with something, I can just sandblast it and then do this treatment even if it's stainless steel or not...or what?

[@dlpannebakker]

What is the longevity of the coating?

[@broemen4515]

How long does it take to burn it before putting it in the oil container?

[@jbone9900]

Till the clour of the metal changes 300 celcuis is recommended.

[@suzysuzuki8865]

Can I do this to coat a rifle?

[@bighammer587]

“First, heat the steel” “How hot?” “Not too hot” Okay...

[@deandrake]

In metalwork, there is a point where if you heat your steel too hot, it removes its temper. You can generally see this by the way your metal looks when heating it. One indicator is the color of the metal. It's good to start with a shiny surface and when the metal starts to turn colors (yellow, red, purple, blue), it still should be safe. Once it becomes black or if it is glowing red, it has gotten too hot.

[@michaelsorrell9922]

300°

[@throngcleaver]

@@deandrake Actually, tempering is the removal of some of the hardness. Hardening an item by heating it red hot and quenching it, gives you full hard, which is normally too hard, making the steel brittle. Tempering is heating the hardened piece back up to a very specific temperature, then quenching it again, to hold it at that tempered, (reduced) hardness. Once you see blue or purple, nearly all the hardness is gone, and you have to go through the entire heat-treating process again.

[@musamor75]

@@michaelsorrell9922 300° WHAT? Celcius (I live in Europe) or Fahrenheit ? How do you measure the temperature?

[@michaelsorrell9922]

@@musamor75 cherry red

[@teamibex7502]

Can it work in iron blades

[@deandrake]

It will, but you don't want to overheat it.

[@pallav2223]

sir how many days the colour will stay

[@Wailwulf]

Depends on how well the metal is protected. If it is scratched/rubbed off, rust can start to form. If kept in wet conditions it can slowly dissolve/"erode" away leaving the metal unprotected. There is plate armor from the Medieval age that is still blackened www.historymuseum.ca/cmc/exhibitions/milhist/austria/images/ausa02b.gif

[@kidcudi908]

can you replace a battery on ipod nano 5th gen? ill pay you

[@union310]

You actually bought one lol

[@fisherbeach2611]

Would this be good for a knife?

[@stevensteven2290]

I don't know but I'm about to find out

[@ivanemilov522]

im scared it might ruin the temper

[@matejmoc7797]

No, a knife is hardened steel and it would lose its properties if heated up. Use a chemical (bluing liguid) for blackening a knife.

[@themadfarmer5207]

Who wants a black knife??????. Maybe those Isis crowd

[@jomarphiliprambano5501]

I wanna try it with my knife. When I use it with foods, do the food won't get contaminated?

[@deandrake]

I wouldn't use it with anything that's going to be used for food. Motor oil has toxins in it that could leech into the food.

[@jomarphiliprambano5501]

@@deandrake Oh! Okay. Thank you.

[@triariicat8448]

You would fuck up the hardness of the blade quenching it in oil

[@suprlite]

Use linseed oil

[@TheDanielp25]

Does this work with aluminum?

[@deandrake]

I have not tried it with aluminum, but I don't think this will work.

[@michaelsorrell9922]

No

[@MrMorro4567]

it is safe to do it on a blade for a kitchen knive? if what what can i do? (for safe i mean safe for healt)

[@deandrake]

I wouldn't do this for items that come in contact with food because of the toxins in used motor oil.

[@MrMorro4567]

@@deandrake do you have any advice on what a i can do to don't risk?

[@deandrake]

@@MrMorro4567 I don't know of any chemical or process that will work. Chemical gun-bluing is even more toxic. There may be something, but I have not researched it.

[@MrMorro4567]

@@deandrake thanks dude🤙🏻

[@1mehrad]

Will it become anti-rust by this process?

[@deandrake]

No. Not necessarily. It does slow the rusting process a bit, but anti-rust? No.

[@Wailwulf]

It makes the item "Rust-resistant"

[@muaz173667]

will it prevent corrosion ?

[@deandrake]

No, unfortunately this does not prevent corrosion... it only colors the surface. I left some of this blackened steel outside and it rusted.

[@mmmumuw]

@@deandrake how long ? Same time as not blackened steel?

[@munchiemax1249]

@@deandrake will this last a long time because I'm gonna do this for the handle on my knife

[@carlogesualdi8972]

yes, yes

[@Mr.muchacho07]

Will it work for blackening a gun or It will damage it?

[@arasazizi1482]

It's what I want to try to

[@Mr.muchacho07]

@@arasazizi1482 you can do that but the question is will it weaken the gun? I think it will weaken/damage the gun

[@ZXAdventZX]

Can i heat the oil instead of the metal?

[@blooobish]

not in a vat, it'll catch fire. might be able to brush the oil on the tool, then heat with a torch and repeat, but i'm guessing you'll get a worse finish because a torch burns much, much hotter than the steel's temp in this vid, and with a thin coat of oil is likely to burn it off before any real coating forms. might be able to brush it on and then use a throwaway oven (the little ones) so that you're not blasting it at 3000f. beware that it will still burn the oil, and the smoke will leave residue in the oven (and in your house, def do it outside), so make sure it's not one you cook in.

[@whileistaysecluded]

Will this work on titanium? Im guessing it will

[@deandrake]

I'm doubtful, but it wouldn't hurt to try.

[@whileistaysecluded]

Dean Drake ok, thanks for the reply 👊

[@jimdobbs1861]

Pierced From Within it works with wd40. You have to heat the titanium piece up and dip in the wd40 multiple times. To get the desired shade of black you want.

[@whileistaysecluded]

Tim Terry thanks a lot for the info!

[@raphlvlogs271]

what would happen if you soaked it for too long?

[@deandrake]

The reaction only occurs when the steel is hot. Since the oil cools the metal down, the reaction is halted, so nothing further will happen with soaking it longer.

[@ahilbilyredneksopinion]

So....can ya do this 2 a knife without Killin it?

[@oldwarmonger8750]

Don’t do this on guns that have been hammer forged unless you want cracks on the frame

[@tommymadux3646]

use map gas it will work better to heat up the part

[@vrap96]

Is it okay to do it on zinc/galvanized metal?

[@luamayav]

Wire brush/wheel or scotch pan the coating off first. You want raw steel

[@luamayav]

I would not try galvanized.

[@ckmoore101]

The heating up part will literally kill you, if you inhale too much of vaporized galvanization..... so no. Put galvanized parts in hydrochloric acid first, for safest way to remove it. Then you can heat treat with oil.

[@SUPPORTYOURSELF]

giving away trade secrets 😉

[@xushenxin]

what is the benefit of blackening steel?

[@deandrake]

Aesthetic purposes, mainly.

[@JosheyG34]

Is it durable?

[@TacticalBuffoonary]

Its not that durable’ he scratched it picking it up with the channel locks🙄

[@eddieetheridge3601]

I'm Gonna Try This With My Putters

[@ashhans1756]

Would it work the same if you did this with Stainless 304 steel?

[@balavannan20]

No

[@MKpixelfan]

any other ways to blacken steal without needing to heat it up?

[@deandrake]

Gun bluing is a chemical blackener that will work for your purposes.

[@MKpixelfan]

@@deandrake Thank you so much! Btw there's a coating on the steel legs, what do I use to remove it? Here's a link to the legs we had to install for now as we have family arriving tomorrow but I'm thinking to strip that black sprayed on coat and dip these legs into what you suggested. Since there's some kind of a coating on them, what would you suggest we use to strip that? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071X9MFYL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@deandrake]

@@MKpixelfan It's probably a powder coated paint that is baked in an oven. I'm not sure why you would want to remove that. Gun bluing is typically for gun barrels or industrial type coating. I wouldn't recommend it for furniture. It is highly toxic and has an unpleasant odor.

[@MKpixelfan]

Dean Drake the reason I don’t like that coating is because it feels / looks coated / fake vs a masculine raw steel that’s handsome when naturally aged. So I had brackets made for shelves by a welder similar to these, these on amazon are raw, so are mine just for half the price :). I got the legs for a live edge coffee table we built but the legs should match the brackets which are above it. Color wise it’s fine, to touch the legs feel cheap/fake on a cool coffee table that is worth around 1k :-/. I want raw, darken by age or whatever patina raw steel, thin poly or whatever coating is ok but the coating on ours is a solid color. www.amazon.com/DIY-CARTEL-Industrial-Floating-Bracket/dp/B07L52DFKP/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?keywords=raw+steel+shelf+brackets&qid=1579772480&sprefix=raw+sreel+shelf+&sr=8-12

[@steveleonard9348]

Will gun bluing rust?

[@michaelsorrell9922]

Bluing is a type of rust.

[@Human_Evolution-]

The how to voice and everything.

[@StarCoreSE]

Btw the color has nothing to do with the oil being motor oil. It just comes with the quenching process.

[@superkas]

can it be done in motorcycle rod suspension ?

[@anders2258]

bad idea as the heating might weaken the part.

[@frigglebiscuit7484]

@@anders2258 you have to heat that steel way hotter than this would ever get to destroy the temper.

[@uiopuiop3472]

I always get high off the motor oil after doing this No need to waste good oil

[@carlogesualdi8972]

be happy most pay top mula to get high

[@edwardlance2379]

Just don't do this with any tool or piece that has been heat treated or you'll soften it up and ruin the temper.

[@edwardlance2379]

@@joeyeva5237 every time it is heated to faint yellow or beyond there will be further temper changes in the steel. Martensite is not a stable structure and is, for lack of better terms, jumping at the chance to spit out carbon atoms from its FCC structure (notice it's not even included on equilibrium phase diagrams). Also, retained austenite wants to convert to bainite during tempering, further changing the structure. I probably wouldn't have a problem with this procedure on some of my tools like maybe pliers, or the like, but on anything that is subject to shock, impact, or high pressure stresses, not a chance.

[@allopez8563]

@@joeyeva5237 Thanks I wanted to blacken a forged axr that tends to rust.

[@wh0tube]

Never do this to your wedding ring.

[@donovanwilliams5424]

ok, but be careful, because you are surface hardening the part by heating and quenching it.