Cold Bluing Solutions Test: Super Blue, Oxpho-Blue, Formula 44/40, Oxpho-Blue Crème, Aluminum Black

[@MasterChef12109]

Thank you for the useful comparison. I wish the internet all looked like this. Useful straight to the point content.

[@ElectronicsComputers]

I'm happy to help and thank you fer the comment.

[@ElectronicsComputers]

There are lots of tips and tricks on how to achieve the best results with cold bluing solutions. What I did is I just simply applied three coats of each solution to see the color, consistency, and speed of the chemical reaction. I used steel wool not only for buffing but also to determine which bluing solution had the strongest finish. Based on my tests, the Brownells Oxpho-Blue cream and Birchwood Casey Super Blue gave me the best results. For touch-ups, I would definitely recommend using Super Blue, and for bluing large areas, I would choose Oxpho-Blue Cream.

[@Frank-Thoresen]

Thank you for doing this comparison. In many videos on YT it seems like Super Blue is the preferred brand for cold bluing

[@ElectronicsComputers]

Thanks for watching! Super Blue gives nice matte black color. Super Blue works perfectly for touch ups and small parts bluing. Oxpho-Blue Creme provides more uniform finish but looks dark glossy green.

[@CJRoberts8812]

I have tried all these "bluing" products over the years, and they all suck. None of them last any time at all if you handle the part. What does work well is Van's Instant Gun Blue. I reblued an old revolver barrel and cylinder with it some years ago and it still looks good today. The secret is to heat the part up some. I left the parts in the Arizona sun for a couple hours and it worked great.

[@Ntmoffi]

Just bought some. Hopefully it doesn't suck. 😄

[@1983mojo1]

@@Ntmoffi does it?

[@LTLoudpack7100]

I used 44/40 when I P&Wed my 14.5 barrel. I used a torch to heat it up, and the finish is holding well after a year and a couple thousand rounds.

[@oloffornehed5585]

Oxpho-Blue and Dicropan last much longer than Super Blue, and they don't smell as bad either. Cold blue will eventually wear off or turn brown, and Super Blue doesn't last very long at all in my experience. The result will also vary a lot with the steel quality, so I use Dicropan on harder parts and Oxpho-Blue on the rest. If you apply several coats, you may see that cold bluing solution can actually wash off the previous coat and make it look uneven. To prevent this, you apply the subsequent coats with an applicator that's just slightly dampened, rather than soaked in solution. And 44/40 does act quickly, but "after rusts" like crazy. If you don't wash the parts thoroughly, they will turn brown overnight. I actually use 44/40 to "antique" new parts to blend in on older guns, a little bit of that rust makes them look just right. But that's about all 44/40 is good for IMO.

[@ElectronicsComputers]

Thank you for the comment!

[@KTPGNS1]

Couldn't agree more. B.C. Super Blue doesn't last nearly as long as Brownells Oxpho-blue. The cream gives a gun a more blued finish while the liquid gives a blacker finish. The only product I can recommend from Birchwood Casey is their Barricade rust preventer. For cold blueing Oxpho-blue is the clear choice by guys who know what they are doing

[@Jack8_2011s]

​@@KTPGNS1 will Oxpho-blue work on aluminum?

[@___meph___4547]

@@Jack8_2011s No.

[@Jack8_2011s]

Thank you ​@@___meph___4547

[@coolspring8749]

Excellent! My same results too that I found. Including AlumaBlack by Birchwood Casey. Thank you for your vid to topic.

[@ElectronicsComputers]

Glad it was helpful!

[@captnhowdy01able]

You are supposed to rinse with water and buffer with steel wool in between coats with the Brownells and the 44/40

[@joe-nf7cf]

I tried Oxpho-blue many years ago, following the directions to a T, and despite the glorious description in the Brownell's catalog on how well it worked, it really didn't work very well. It "blues" to a kind of dark but still grayish color. No depth at all.

[@ElectronicsComputers]

In my experience, consumer-grade bluing solutions, like those from Birchwood Casey or Brownells, are generally the same-they don't last long, and the finish they provide is quite fragile. I’ve always viewed them as a quick, easy fix when I needed to improve the appearance of something I was selling, such as tools, firearms, or equipment. Applying the solution on screws or other small parts can make them look new or untouched, which helps add value to the item. But of course, that finish wears off quickly with contact, whether it's from handling or exposure to the elements.

[@joe-nf7cf]

@@ElectronicsComputers Right, but to read Brownell's description, it is the miracle blue we all needed. They actually state that since abrasion is part of the application process, "normal contact from gun cases, brush and clothing won't wear your bluing." BS. It is not worth the money.

[@herrcobblermachen]

Ive only ever used the birchwood casey line. The superblue has instructions that aren't quite so intuitive. Alcohol, buff, apply for no longer than 30 seconds, douse in cold water, alcohol, buff, reapply. Does it make a difference? I dunno, but thats what the instructions say. Its hard to get an entire barrel done in that short window. I dont know that it affords any superlative protection as its not like a coating per se. Once youre done with the bluing, oil the hell out of it until it quits soaking it up, and then re-oil frequently.

[@ElectronicsComputers]

Well, the key thing for perfect bluing is to thoroughly degrease the surface of the metal. It should be clean of any debris and grease. There are lots of solutions that can be used for this. Also, after bluing, some people wash the surface to remove the extra bluing solution. I don’t do that, I just apply a lot of oil, and the result has always been great with Super Blue and Oxpho-Blue Creme.

[@EscapePlanSkateboarding]

Can you use these products on already coloured/anodized metals?

[@ElectronicsComputers]

Sure! Bluing solution can be used to touch up and fix worn-off finish, as well as to remove some scratches on painted, anodized or blued surfaces.

[@wesleypowers]

The aluminum black, sure.

[@Lvvcassss]

Why is it called bluing where it's actually blacking? ;P

[@ElectronicsComputers]

The term "bluing" comes from the bluish tint that can appear during the process, even though the final result often looks more black than blue.

[@jtrazz4038]

out of the 5 which me held up and looked the best? would u say the super blue or casey’s aluminum black

[@ElectronicsComputers]

Aluminum black is only for aluminum surfaces. For steel I'd choose Super Blue or Brownells Oxpho-Blue cream.

[@free_at_last8141]

I believe that the instructions for the liquid bluing solutions recommend rinsing the surface with water within 1 minute of application, after which it recommends drying and oiling the surface. I wonder if your leaving the solution on the surface resulted in the uneven reaction. Regardless, thank you for the demonstration.

[@ElectronicsComputers]

Yes, you're right. After applying several layers, you have to rinse the surface to wash those chemicals from the metal surface. I always do that, but in this demonstration video, I didn't because it wasn't necessary. It wouldn't make a big difference. I use Birchwood Casey Super Blue and Brownell's Oxpho Blue, and from my point of view and what folks say in comments, it's the best stuff on the market.

[@solo8827]

will this work on aluminum?

[@ElectronicsComputers]

I've tested it on Aluminum. Have you seen the video? There are some specific solutions for steel and aluminum.

[@yiihawting5815]

Where to order this product?

[@ElectronicsComputers]

I always buy that stuff on Amazon, the links in the video description. But looks like most of it temporary out of stock and you have to constantly check those links, because once it appears it gets sold very fast.

[@advil000]

I have to recolor parts, nicks, and modified bits constantly. The Oxpho-Blue cream is a godsend when you are trying to endlessly touch up places you file or mill. It stays right where you put it and doesn't run all the heck over onto places you don't want it, or drip onto other surfaces you REALLY don't want it on... etc. Is it a perfect finish compared to hot bluing? Heck no. But it works well enough to call it good on everything except show pieces. If it's a part that's in hard service, it's ideal because touching it up later is just as easy. Dab on a little more and rub with a Q-tip. You don't even need to waste time meticulously degreasing.

[@mrexpendable1232]

What I did is I actually saw the birchwood and casey touch up pen and decided to buy my own empty refillable marker from amazon which I filled with Oxpho blue. Now with this marker I can touch up any nicks with precision

[@advil000]

I... really like the idea of the refillable marker. Thanks!@@mrexpendable1232

[@RomiloPerejan]

How buy this super blue?

[@ElectronicsComputers]

I've provided the links in the description, but those items are sold out. You'll need to add them to your shopping list and continuously monitor their availability. Once they're back in stock, you can purchase them.

[@nicholasvaughn6904]

Do the bluing solutions work on the aluminum? I have the Brownells Oxpho Blue and it works great. I'm not trying to match a finish, just get a black coating on some aluminum parts. Awesome video!

[@ElectronicsComputers]

I have never tried steel solutions on aluminum. I always use dedicated solutions for aluminum surfaces. Just give it a try on some piece of aluminum that you don't need.

[@denizenofclownworld4853]

No. It's a chemical reaction that occurs and will only work on steel.

[@skipspik1571]

No, BUT bichwood made a solution for aluminum specifically I have been using birchwood alu black for airsoft at lot. Most airsoft metals are either aluminum or Zamak, which has like 4-5% aluminum and 95% Zinc. It works great on Zamak too (Zinc doesn't stop the reaction of birchwood alu black, if anything it's a bit slower due to the lower % of alu, and the end result is black with brown reflects and not blue ones). Just rub it with steel wool before appying it, alu makes a protective coat with air :)

[@TL50-r9f]

Try different barrel steel types the results depend on how much carbon steel/iron content.

[@sarahlukman2098]

Is the super blue liquid can be apply to stainless steel surface??

[@ElectronicsComputers]

It's not gonna work for stainless steel.

[@milboltnut]

warm with torch to touch before bluing to darkness preferred, other wise it's a waste of time.

[@ak2296]

Does the steel blue work on aluminum surfaces????

[@ElectronicsComputers]

The last one that I tested in the video is specifically made for aluminum surfaces.

[@ak2296]

@@ElectronicsComputers yes bro I know that the last one u tested is made for aluminum but in my place is very hard to find it so this is why I asked if the steel blue might be applicable for aluminum or not?? Waiting ur answer plse

[@ElectronicsComputers]

@@ak2296 It doesn't work at all on aluminum surfaces. It leaves some weird, discolored stains, but that's not what you want to see on aluminum. All these solutions are acids, and they react differently with various metals. Basically, they cause a chemical reaction and oxidize the metal surface, so it's important to use them on the specific metal they’re designed for. Otherwise, they won't work properly at all.

[@RicIbaEnc]

Hi, how are you? Thanks for your video, but i was wondering if you know a technique or a solution for inox steel. Regards

[@ElectronicsComputers]

It's possible by using some aggressive chemicals with hot bluing process.

[@wesleypowers]

No, you can not treat MOST S.S., because of the high chromium content, it is pretty inert. There are exceptions with certain S.S. alloys, but in general, no. There is a reason (especially 304 & 316 S.S. are frequently used in the chemical industry. 🥸

[@anthonyjose5644]

Hey all if anyone can answer this for me I’d appreciate it. I have a 2011 bull barrel that’s polished stainless will any of these products work well for a cold blue? I also heard using brass wool helps it take better. Also curious if I polish out barrel more to a mirror shine will it be a more glossy blue?

[@ElectronicsComputers]

Those solutions don't work with stainless steel.

[@zapa1pnt]

For a plain, carbon steel, barrel, polishing will help give a glossier shine. For your stainless barrel, your only option is Cerakote.

[@anthonyjose5644]

@ sent it off to dlc

[@groomlake51]

Elbow grease is the best for results

[@cartermorey8647]

i like 'vans" best

[@matthewmarek1467]

Super Blue's final result is much better if you work fast. Apply 30-60s, don't let it dry on the surface, and immediately rinse with water. Burnish with steel wool to even out between coats.

[@ElectronicsComputers]

Thank you for the advice!

[@DhamzkiypanegasMakalimpas]

Pwd vha sa m16 yan

[@timhofstetter5654]

Lots of different stainless steels are attracted to magnets.

[@wesleypowers]

And...?