Blades - Things I Wish I Knew Before??? | Must Know Info About Blades & Blade Sharpening

[@Northwooods]

As a fellow carpenter I am shocked by the lack of likes on this video. This is the kind of valuable information that most of us probably don’t think about, but yet has a huge impact on money and time saved. Much appreciated.

[@ChromeLuxx]

All sounds like work to anyone under 45 yrs old. Why work when they are all going to be a rich KZbin stars, or invent some POS and live like a Kardashian.

[@CraigularjJoeWoodworks]

⁠@bret9741maybe. I think pros know pro tools and blades though. Home owners would probably think diablo is upper tier, so I agree on that front

[@tedd1091]

Dude, that was off the charts for KZbin - Well done

[@jt-eb4sp]

This is one of the best videos I have seen. His presentation is flawless and his opinions are right on. Great job.

[@joeegas5718]

I am a newbie carpenter and all the info on blades will help me out. Outstanding video.

[@ravenheart1439]

Man you just answered a bunch of questions I had, it's about like finish, it's a deep worm hole we get into...thanks for your time man .

[@pavelnesterov5554]

At first I was gonna say, you are NUTS paying $180 . For a blade. But after listening for the reason and use of it. I will be buying these blades too . Thanks much

[@michael.schuler]

Excellent blade tutorial. Thank you. Many years ago I adopted a European strategy that has enabled me to maximize flexible use of my tooling: I specified 30 mm bore when purchasing all my high quality blades. At the time, I ran a German combination machine with 30 mm arbor; others in my shop have 5/8", 3/4", and 1" arbors. By use of the appropriate saw bushing (I buy from Amana), I am able to deploy any blade on almost any machine, at times maximizing the usefulness of certain specialty blades (e.g. triple chip.) I also had custom 30 mm O.D. collars machined, one with 5/8" I.D. and another with 1" I.D., that allow me to deploy my 8" stack dado on either table saw, RAS, or shaper. I run mostly Leitz and Forrest blades, purchased in pairs. Care and maintenance such as you present in this video have allowed most to remain in service for decades. Besides regular cleaning, another key to optimizing cut quality (and minimizing power requirement!) is the use of blade stabilizers, especially on lightweight table saws. With stabilizer diameter equal to as much as 50% of blade diameter, the improvement in the performance of a thin kerf blade is dramatic.

[@iamjackalope]

Keeping your blades clean is a must. I just cleaned about half a dozen blades that had been relegated to the dull blade pile by others that have access to my table saw that came back to life after a good cleaning. I have been using the Freud blades for a bunch of years professionally and I have had 0 problems with them. I have them sharpened all of the time and they come back good as new. But then again I try and stay away from thin kerf blades especially on my hand held circular saws and even more so on my beam saw with it's 16 5/16" blade. As a matter of fact I have a whole stack that are ready to go to the sharpener right now. That's partly why I clicked on this video. Some of them where being tossed out on job sites and I grabbed them from the trash bin. They have never been sharpened before and I'll send them in and have a nice sharp blade for a third of the price when I get them back.

[@pattihudson6962]

I have been sharpening my Dewalt blades with my Foley Sharpener for years. Always have excellent results.

[@nicholasnews5983]

Cool guy explaining cool details on cutting blades

[@paxtonquigley1725]

Your videos are really first class. A gentleman and very professional tradesman. You are an example of what we should strive to be. An example for others who is knowledgeable and willing to teach. Thank you. Be well.

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Thanks 👍

[@Stefan_Kawalec]

We've all been there - trying to outsmart ourselves and buying dirty cheap blades. Then you find a really good sharpening parlour and all of sudden end up with bunch of 200 Euro a piece blades. And it makes sense. Great video, as always. You've become a really good teacher.

[@edmundnyamupepema]

Thank you so much for such a saw blade masterclass. I wish I could thumps up it 1000 times.

[@cletustollery6914]

As a trim carpenter and cabinet maker for 30 years, kudos on this video. Years ago I bought a Forrest blade and have never bought another brand since. Their sharpening is amazing and they sharpen almost anything from saw blades, planer knives, router bits, lathe tools and jointer knives. As loyal, stubborn and old as I am, I might grab a FS blade.

[@stumpbumpers]

Same, but I dare say, my experience has shown a professional sharpening is the key component. I think the heavier blades are better because of momentum more carbide. I really don’t think 90% of woodworkers could tell a difference in a cheap blade vs a quality blade after a professional sharpening.

[@justinrehms4530]

I’ve never thrown a blade away. I’ve always taken my low quality blades whether chipped or dull to get retoothed with high quality carbide to be sharpened. I’ve even had my blades teeth redesigned for optimal use on my table saw or miter saw so they cut smoother and faster. I’ve been using the same saw blades now for 20+ years. Cleaning for sure helps them last longer than you’d ever think too.

[@aspees]

When looking at the initial investment of buying a $50 blade vs a $100 blade you need to look at longevity of sharpness first. The Forrest/FS quality will outlast the Freud/Amana quality 2:1. It’s basically a wash in cost. However, when you get to sharpening you pay the same amount of money to sharpen cheap blades vs expensive ones. Every time you spend your $25 to sharpen the $100 blade you get a $100 blade. Sharpen it 5 times means you have spent $100+$125 = $225 to get $600 worth of blade which outlast the good quality 2:1. That’s without even talking about cut quality. Point being buy good blades they will last years of decent use. We always buy them in pairs. One is on the saw the other is either at the sharpeners or is sharp on the shelf.

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Well said!

[@lumberjack7923]

LOVE HOW DETAILED YOU ARE WITH YOUR DESCRIPTION AND LEAVE NOTHING TO QUESTION ! just stumbled across your channel. Recently retired from 35 yrs of emergency services work but started out carpentry work as a teenager and young man and I am looking to dabble again in my own house but am so pleased to find EXPERTS on you tube that are willing to share . After all these years it is evident that I have a lot of brushing and catching up to do BUT eager to start the journey with renewed enthusiasm and vigor & NOW MORE IMPORTANTLY ARMED WITH VALUABLE KNOWLEDGE to proceed with !!! thank you I WATCHED YOUR SHIP LAP VIDEO and picked up some valuable tips !!!! because that is what I am using in my first project covering a beautiful natural stone fireplace and converting it to something more modern looking ( MAKES ME WANT TO VOMIT 🤮🤮🤢 ) having to paint the bottom stone white and cover the top with ship lap BUT as the saying goes HAPPY WIFE !!!!! LOL

[@theamishpotato]

learned a lot I probably should have known for years!

[@davidsherley2652]

Hi Spencer - as I’ve watched more of you videos, I want to comment again. I really like your take on means & methods - how you approach your work. Your balance of precision, efficiency and production repeatability is truly admirable. I recently came across your channel and have gladly subscribed. In my younger days, after college, I apprenticed with frame and later trim carpenters for roughly five years. I later went to work in commercial cabinet shops, first in production and later as a project manager. From there I went back to architecture (what I studied in college). My orientation toward working with the tools is similar to yours, but my experience is less evolved. As my architecture career developed, I moved around the country following commercial projects...and the tools went into storage. I’ve recently decided to settle in Eastern Indiana and gotten the tools out of storage. As I reconnect with my love for woodworking, I hope to synthesize my experience and develop a work style similar to yours. Keep up the workmanship and the videos!

[@mikea7126]

I bought 3 FS Tool saw blades from a place called industrial saw blades which was next door to where I was working. This was in 1990. I still have them today and use them regularly. The are excellent blades and I would recommend them to anyone looking for good quality Blades.

[@T.E.P.]

You share sooo much through your experience and always improving and thinking about improvements ... and your channel has been a huge joy here on KZbin. Cheers Spencer. Your excellence is inspiring

[@InsiderCarpentry]

My pleasure 😊

[@3345arjd]

f s blades are the best hands down. 27 years cabinet shop all i use. love your channel. you taughtme quite a few things

[@ericbaldridge4211]

Much appreciated. You hit every question I’ve had. No more box store bargain blades.

[@Hvn1957]

I think Freud and CMT get sold a little short. In our shop, we use mostly Forrest blades. However, there are several Freud blades in use, on miter saws and lighter duty tables saws. They perform quite well if used judiciously. Our philosophy is they get one sharpening, then out to pasture. Where the really good blades shine is in the mill. We have two big old Dewalt 14” radial arm saws, one for rough and one for fine. We also have an old Clement table saw with power feed for rough rips, and a big Tannewitz also with power feed, for all the fine rips. These four saws are in use eight hours a day, all year round. They have the highest quality blades we can get. Thanks for your excellent content! You really spend the time to explain thoroughly. Your care and thoughtfulness is appreciated. PS You mentioned Southern Yellow (Short Leaf) Pine. Years ago we ran a ton of that stuff for structural components. It’s the worst wood on tools I’ve ever had the displeasure to mill. But man is it robust!

[@woodturnermark8529]

Great video, I also agree that you get what you pay for, I clean my blades with a table spoon of Spic and Span (one box will last a life time) with warm water, soak for about 15 minutes and clean with a brass brush, like new !

[@1qikz210]

During my woodworking / carpentry career I chose to help (as an apprentice) an up and coming sharpening operation who had decades of experience, but was struggling to get his operation off the ground. It was one of the best choices I've made. We worked hard, in rough shop conditions, and ordered a lot of late night take out pizza. 20 + years later he passed his operation down to his son and they have expanded into a very successful operation. His gained knowledge was key to providing top quality services, and intelligent advice, to his customers which simply didn't understand anything beyond "dull and sharp". Having someone who knows the mechanics of cutting tools is huge. Hamronale Carpentry

[@kevinparmelee5609]

Quinn and FS Tools just got 99,000 new customers when this video posted

[@InsiderCarpentry]

I'm happy to send business to good companies that help us do our job better.

[@rauladame2105]

Clean blades are a must. I also use the blade cleaning solvent. I wax my blades after I clean them. I have not had any more problems with pitch/glue build up with the added step of waxing. I wax the cutting platforms as we, like my table of the table saw. This content is extremely helpful and also accurate in explaining saw blade best practices. Great info.

[@corcoransullivan1562]

Another great vid. Always learn something watching you.

[@s312a22s]

Excellent Equipment, a must needed at Home or Even for Working

[@BradKaboord]

Most of the best answers are loaded with question. Thanks for your take on this topic.

[@BryanPCC]

Well, I finally dulled the stock blade that came with my new DW716XPS. I bought an FS Tools blade to go with it based on your recommendations when I bought it a couple months back. Threw it in last night so I could finish the walnut miters on my builtins and make the cuts for my mantle. Without a doubt, the smoothest, easiest, cleanest cuts I've ever made. It can't even be compared to the blades at the box stores, it's leaps and bounds ahead of them. It's going to be a joy to work with, should increase my efficiency, and my clients will get better results in shorter amounts of time. Thanks again for an awesome video and recommendation Spencer!

[@InsiderCarpentry]

You bet. That blade spins so good on a 716. Probably my favorite cutting combo.

[@dougprentice1363]

I am very happy with ridge carbide blades that stumpy nubs recommends. I put a note on my blade storage box to remind me to send them to quinn when they need to be reshaped. Nice video

[@1982nsu]

Excellent video. Another good reason for keeping blades clean is to prevent blade warpage 05:51 due to resin/pitch causing excessive heat build-up along the periphery of the blade.

[@charlesenfield2192]

When it comes to Freud, you have to distinguish between the red/Diablo blades, and the Freud Industrial blades. The Industrial line is definitely worth sharpening.

[@diverdave4056]

a long time ago before track saws were invented ... I had to cut solid maple panels that were finished - face up with my Skil worm drive ... I asked the tool store manager IF they might have a saw blade that will give me the cleanest cut ? With out missing a beat , he showed me the TENRYU blades and he said , that YES they do cost more BUT they will give you the cleanest cut and they will last a long time before needing to be resharpened ! Well he didn't lie - every cut was perfect - no chips or splinters and no need to sand the cut smooth . Since that day I have only bought the blades that TENRYU makes . So unless your using a saw to do demo work - don;t waste your money on a cheap saw blade

[@FredD63]

Great tips to know I use 80t and 60t blades most of the time

[@Peter-Casey]

CMT blade cleaner & no mention of their blades, very informative video & thanks for your time

[@ercaner9614]

Just discovered your chanel mate. I am a metal worker that dabbles in carpentry and find your posts valuable. Look forward to more posts. Sydney Australia

[@violettownmicroenterprises1528]

excellent. I've learnt quite a lot of important information. Thank you.

[@Wooddust6]

good info. But one correction/disagreement. Freud blades are not the same as Diablo red blades (is they cheap big box store version). the Freud line blades are the higher quality industrial carbide blades which is what i use & they are great blades (years ago before they rebranded things they were synonymous, but now the Freud blades will usually say Freud Industrial and don't have the Red paint on them generally.). Not something you can buy at the big box stores.

[@williamcooper5009]

Just bought a Freud for my SawStop 3.0. Waaaaayyyyyyyyyy better than I expected. $60 at Rockler.

[@shelton0181]

I’ve just recently switched from Amana thin kerf blades to Ridge Carbide thick kerf blades. The cut quality is superior with the Ridge Carbide blades, hands down! I’ll never go back to anything less than a 0.125 kerf. Thanks for the video. Well done.

[@robertfrancis4876]

Ridge and Forrest great blades

[@gavinfeargrieve4874]

You pretty much summed up everything I've been thinking about blade selection/ cleaning and sharpening. It's just nice to hear another professional come to the same conclusions! And, yes- the sharpening service is really only worth it when it's done by robots.

[@user-ed5jh3ff6u]

Matsushita was always blade of choice, cut better dull then most blades sharp, haven’t had good luck with reshaping, still have large inventory of pristine used blades, definitely going to try out your guys on one, high dollar blades make you cry if you hit a nail. Thanks buddy

[@SupaDave63]

I like The Tenryu as well. Makita eased to put them on their miter saws. CMT has a high end blade that seems to work very well. Wisconsin Knife , forester of course.

[@dano6201]

Great video! I’m a self employed carpenter and it’s funny when I worked for people before I never knew to clean blades. When I went on my own I realized my blades weren’t cutting well even though they where new and thought to clean it and it cut like new so I do like you said clean it quite often! In a pinch I use windex and a toothbrush on site.

[@palettetools6461]

One of the best channels on KZbin.

[@BigRed-]

Love your content man. You really know what you’re talking about. I’ve learned so much from you, thank you!

[@InsiderCarpentry]

My pleasure!

[@jimbok2492]

No longer 180. I think there are better options. Great video. Thanks man

[@anthonygerali7220]

Just ordered both the 10"& 12" blades from your links...Happy to support this channel!...Keep the awesome content coming!

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Much appreciated

[@jamesurquhart1289]

Spencer, Really enjoy your channel, your videos are well thought out and really show your knowledge base. As an Engineer by trade I enjoy the way you make a process out of the job, the stop block video series really demonstrates how you recognize efficiency for your company while increase your speed an accuracy on the job. Look forward to more informational videos.

[@andyeckles4158]

Thanks Spencer. I was always sending my blades in to get sharpened to remove that *gunk* as I called it. It never occurred to me to research how to clean them myself. I used your link below to purchase the kit. Hope you got your commission. Andy

[@nascarhyde]

Thanks for the video! Very informative and I will be cleaning my blades now. I have been using Forrest Woodworker I and II blades, but I might try your recommendation to try FS Tool blades. Paul

[@A_Plus_Finish_Carpentry]

Great content in this video. Keep up the good work, sir.

[@2010stoof]

I'm just starting. Going with CMT ITK 12" 80 tooth for my miter saw. Same price as Diablo with thicker blade and kerf and meant to be resharpened. Yes I'll get a nice Forrest or other brand blade eventually but those cost more than half the cost of my miter saw. They seem to be a good start as a hobbyist/homeowner. They are .111 kerf which isn't bad and .087 plate The FS tool has .007 thicker plate and .009 bigger kerf. We will see how it goes. For $58 for 80t 12" I figure I'm at least better off than the diablo throw away blades. I still use diablo for my 7 1/4 circ saws. I got them back when they were 2for1 at HD before pandemic. They don't do that anymore. I'd love to see pros trying these CMT ITK extreme blades I trust your guys's opinion Any thoughts?

[@whales302]

Love the Tenryu Gold Medal blade and I've run a lot of blades. Super quiet and deadly sharp. I agree on sharpeners....none of this matters if you don't have a high quality knowledgeable sharpener.

[@mwgrc]

I just go with the Diablo regular kerf 80t ($53), and made a jig for the table saw from the design John Heisz made on his channel which utilizes a 6" diamond blade, and on those winter days when its slow I sharpen them up and it works great for me. Still got a lot of carbide on the blades so Im thinking 5-10 year range but I will start cleaning them with what your suggesting. I'm a Trim carpenter but have taken more of a Superintendent role as well as doing the Millwork/Trim packages on my projects, so I probably only do 50% or less of what you do. I can see how your method of getting good blades and having them sharpened professionally would be advantageous to a guy whos hustling from one job to the next, great video and advise as usual.

[@kong_dong_usmc6651]

Great video, I'm glad I found it even if a few years too late. I learned a lot I wish I knew sooner as well.

[@1982nsu]

Another good reason for keeping blades clean is to prevent blade warpage 05:51 due to resin/pitch causing excessive heat build-up along the periphery of the blade.

[@WarrenDrakeVRN]

Excellent video! Best I"ve ever seen about saw blades on KZbin!

[@shanemcclaran3012]

I learned that car door edge moulding fits the carbide teeth of a good industrial blade cut to fit for your blade diameter and put a piece of painters tape on the two edges where they meet and your carbide teeth are very well protected during shipping or storing them for future use

[@stevesakotic8280]

Hello Mate. Great video. Excellent presentation. I found the content of your presentation very informative, helpful and useful. Well done Mate!! Automatically subscribed!

[@charlesvickers4804]

As a hobbiest the high end blade is a life time blade . I have purchaved som 50 plus yo saws the blades have been rusty but sharp enough i cut myself on one. The big thing ive noticed is the weight of the old blades much heavier. Think ill send them out for a spa date at quin saw.

[@davesatosky5840]

i also user those fs tool blades because my local sharpener sells them, your the first person i've ever heard recommend them. A&H sharpens them close to 20 times, which i have sharpened bi weekly just because i've become so spoiled with sharp blades that i cant stand when they show any signs of dulling. glad i found your channel, you got a new subscriber

[@Tool-Meister]

I’ve used what I consider professional grade blades since 1985. I’ve tried several brands and a couple of pro sharpening services. I’ve used Tynrue, Ridge Carbide, Forrest, etc. I do own a couple of Freud and DiabIo blades but found their general purpose blades don’t really compare to the pro grade blades over time. I too keep a couple of “beater” blades on hand for really nasty stock including MDF sheet-goods. I still have my original 1986 Forrest Woodworker II. It’s been sharpened by Forrest many times . It’s been used on three different table saws including a 1-1/2 hp contractors saw and my 5hp cabinet saw. I concur. Invest in one or more pro-grade blades and you will save money overall and have superior results. My experiences with miter saws varies somewhat. The factory blade on my mid-80’s Porter Cable miter saw was awful. I replaced it with a Ridge Carbide 50 tooth, 10”, chop-saw blade. It was so terrific I’ve kept the PC for special setups, etc. On the other hand my pro blades purchased for my Festool Kapex saw have not proven to be an improvement over Festool’s blades. I’ve had my 60 & 80 tooth Festool blades sharpened by Forrest with excellent results. Your video is excellent advice for so many craftspersons wondering if it’s all worth it. I echo a resounding YES! Even hobbyists should buy pro-grade blades and have them sharpened by Ridge Carbide, Forrest, or equivalent sharpening services. It’s actually one of the highest return-on-investment upgrades they can buy!

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Thanks for the reply! I think the kapex is a unique saw in the way it spins the blade. It is underpowered compared to most miter saw. I always ran tenry silencers on my kapexes and they were soso blades. Festool may be the one exception in that they actually give you the tool with a high quality blade on it.

[@DrWes1962]

My dad was a master woodworker and I've tried to improve upon his work over the years. I've built a ton of stuff and NOBODY ever told me about cleaning my blades. I feel real dumb. But I'm going t go to work on that. Still considering the ROI on the good blade sharpening plan. But you're pitch was pretty damn good. Got me thinking.

[@DT11acs]

100K right around the corner. Well done fella and Hi from Scotland

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Thanks for supporting this channel by visiting these affiliate links!!!::: My favorite Blades: Favorite Miter Saw Blade - amzn.to/3wJkEbC (Sub-Micron Grade Extended Life Carbide and 6 degree hook) I USE THE SM6300 personally NOTE THE LM6300 is not as high quality carbide and has a more negative hook angle. I think a negative 5 degree is ideal for sliding compound miter saws. Favorite Table Saw Blade - amzn.to/3fy6gNn Blade Cleaning Solution - amzn.to/3vLCIkY Blade Cleaning Brushes - amzn.to/2S2WWsb Blade Cleaning Plastic Container - amzn.to/3p3CQKr Rockler Blade Cleaning Container - www.rockler.com/router-bit-an...

[@markgish6002]

On a sharp blade you should see shavings in the sawdust. As the blades become dull the sawdust become finer. Had a saw mill many years ago.

[@tommyknightly1659]

Great knowledge and high quality work, thanks Lewis

[@MistAtsiM]

Freud makes an industrial blade as well I have one and it's extremely well made. But not sure about long term yet. I've had it for about 6 months now... So far so good

[@anthonyr.3799]

In your opinion what's a good brand for diy, occasionally doing some cabinetry or other wood

[@monteglover4133]

👍👍 I’ll definitely agree with cleaning and a high quality full kerf blade, do how ever do use separate blades for plywood, ... A high quality rip blade will often leave a glue ready cut. I was a part time cabinet maker, unfortunately my shop has been setting mostly unused for a few years due to illnesses.

[@screaminpotato]

Really helpful information! It shows how intentional and serious you take your business. It’s hard for some to sit back and perform maintenance but this shows it is necessary.

[@devjaxvid]

How big is that tupperware container? Thank you for a very informative video.

[@philkirkham1000]

Thanks for the info, from UK and blade sharpening isn't big over here which is a shame so interesting to hear others perspective.

[@youstubers5722]

Thanks Spencer, I know a lot of work to make these videos. Really appreciate your thorough approach every time!

[@InsiderCarpentry]

My pleasure!

[@yt66228]

When I first started working in carpentry, I would buy mid-priced blades. After a while, I spent the money on a high-quality blade (Ridge Carbide) I have been converted ever since. The high-quality blade is a bigger bang for your buck. Never going back!

[@florissantrob]

great info. never knew you should clen your blades. Love your videos. HVAC worker now but 13 yrs as a carpenter. Still do it just not on the daily. You always put out amazingly informative videos, thank you.

[@YvonBolduc_Tip007]

Always great content. You are a reference in the field of finished carpentry.

[@zephyr1408]

All kidding aside about the painted blades! I use a Forrest Wood Worker 2 on my Table Saw and the Chop Master on my Miter Saw. So far I don’t actually cut as much as you however doing custom work often cutting a lot of 8/4 oak lately , Cabinets & outdoor tables / benches I been getting 18 months? And I clean my blades often to make that it last!

[@damianvazquez-oi3qj]

thank you for your videos they are very helpful

[@mattschoular8844]

As always, you get what you pay for. Thanks Spencer..

[@allenguffey9370]

Great video as always lots of good information

[@timking7496]

I Have less expensive Blades that Ive had sharpened for many years it saves me about half the cost of a new Blade whether its a 24 tooth Diabalo or a 120 Old Ham ( Ive had over 22 years) and is still a great blade I do a wide variety of installs more with flooring and misc trims just had almost a dozen resharpened for around 130.00 some with large # of teeth and have used A-1 of Kearns Ut for over 30 years there reasonable and Local for me

[@lindamarsden8024]

Thank you, this is a fantastic video with invaluable information.

[@Robertdiamondking]

Couple things: I think Diablo has gotten really good. It also depends on your machine. I have a Forrest woodworker 2 and it’s awful on my table saw. My guess is it only works with a much more powerful machine. I’m not knocking it. Just that sometimes a thinner kerf is better.

[@frankkenny4873]

really enjoy your vids they are very helpful

[@katabrontes]

Very helpful Spencer. I didn't appreciate how important it was to keep blades clean. Thanks for the many tips and good advice I get from your channel. Mike (UK)

[@mattbowers5342]

Thank you for the awesome information! Bookmarked the sharpening service for the next time. My local guy in NW Ohio does a good job, but it takes 6 weeks normally and costs much more!

[@Cousin.Justin]

*Welcome Back* 🤜🏻💥🤛🏻

[@pooleo8]

Is it worth the high end blade for a guy that does run of the mill finish work, base, case, furniture molding, etc. And also using the same saw for rough framing, azek, vinyl, etc....? Should a guy have a dedicated blade for each task? One for interior finish, another for rough and a 3rd for pvc, vinyl?

[@DarkTouch]

the real cost savings is less material waste and less lost time redoing crappy cuts from crappy dull and dirty blades... so buy good blades, keep them clean, and get them professionally sharpened. as a fine furniture builder, i use four blades on my table saw: rip, box joint, cross cut/combo and fine finish atb blades. So use the right blade for the right job/material, and don't be lazy and not change them. This makes you get organized a little bit, like do as much ripping at once to minimize blade changes. I use the miter saw mainly for cutting stock to rough length, especially rough lumber before s4s milling, and do all my finish/final cuts on the table saw.

[@DadzorRules]

Outstanding video! You just acquired a new follower. Thanks for the great info.

[@Myfriendwaits]

I like a thin kerf blade because it's easier on the saw, making lots of cuts, pulling from a temporary pole, with other subs, I want my saw to spool up quickly and brake with ease. I've tried high quality blades. They are good on a table saw, but I like thin kerf on my miter saw.

[@ederorellana9919]

Thank you for this info. I’ve been looking to upgrade from these thin Diablo blades. I just ordered the fs tool blade and I’m looking forward to deflection free cuts.

[@willb914]

Spencer , You Rock brah !!! Thanks so much .Does the Dewalt DW 718 compound miter saw have the horse power to run a full kerf FS fm6300- xl 4000? Please advise. Thanks, Will

[@josephmccann4143]

Very informative, as always.

[@robhillstrom3283]

The blades that come with the saw are great for cutting aluminum

[@jimbtv]

Excellent video! Thank you.

[@toodlican]

Wow. That was interesting. The guy I worked for never have nice blades and we all just got used to cutting with them. The cleaning tip blew my mind as most of the time on my personal saws I changed blades because they had build up. Thanks for the tips