Bleeding fuel line Yanmar 2GM20F J/105

As they say, feed your diesel engine clean fuel and clean air and it'll treat you right. I've had to bleed my fuel line twice in the last year on my J/105

[@littlecay7003]

Currently our favorite answer to anyone asking a "why" question for which there is no logical answer.

[@svkoleseredavesara3544]

Hey.. thanks so much for this video it is just what I needed. I got the motor running within 15 minutes of watching this video.

[@smoothbore4377]

I'm eternally flabbergasted by guys making "how to" videos, without actually knowing the first thing about the subject.

[@katherinesharkey2602]

Hello - we just used this video to get our yanmar running - thank you! You are awesome!

[@farnorth7314]

Why is it every time I see an instructional video about bleeding a Yanmar they always miss the MOST IMPORTANT point...the lever on the pump has a stroke of about an inch, all but the last 1/4" of that is useless freeplay. The bottom bit of the stroke is what drives the fuel along and feels considerably heavier. HOWEVER if the pump is sitting on a high lobe of the camshaft that last 1/4 will not exist. If this is the case you must open the depression levers and roll the engine using the drive belts until that last 1/4 of the pump stroke exists. To try to bleed by simply flapping the lever through the free play part of the stroke achieves absolutely nothing. And proper size clamps on fuel will help avoid air leaks. To people who want to properly learn how to bleed an engine...DO NOT WATCH THIS VIDEO.

[@hadlock]

Great advice thank you

[@vsp441]

You made this way over complicated. I have the 3GMF and it's basically the same engine with one more cylinder. When you replace the Primary, make sure you install new O rings and fill it to the top with clean diesel. You shouldn't have to bleed anything. If you are doing your secondary, then you will need to bleed the filter and then the high-pressure pump bleed. The priming lever on the mechanical pump only pumps fuel at the very bottom 10% of movement where you start to encounter resistance. If you don't get resistance then you need to roate the flywheel to the next cylinder to move the camshaft lobe off the mechanical pumps diaphram. You should be able to prime then. Open the Secondary filter bleed and pump the priming lever, fuel should come through and do it iuntil there are no more bubbles. It shouldn't take much. Then open the high pressure bleed and prime again until you get fuel. You should be good to go.

[@flyinbrian87]

The cursing had me laughing SO HARD!!! HAHHA.

[@THEGG_99]

Same HAHAHH.

[@aaronwalker8847]

Well.. You have the mechanics lingo down pat🤣 The older 80- 83 model 2gm 13 horse is the exact same set up pretty much. Just higher output on the 2gm20, so there is some different parts, but the set up is the same pretty much. As far as I can tell.

[@codycraddock4975]

Man you just saved my ass

[@mickeyfactory]

HAHA! Thanks. This will definitely help me.

[@adam56usa]

That thing is another filter

[@farnorth7314]

This guy is dangerous.

[@flynbryan41]

@@farnorth7314 Dangerous?! Come on....He isn't going through space shuttle systems.

[@sailinghalcyondaze6848]

How long have you had the engine? And not changed that thing (primary fuel filter) lol

[@darrellstreet90]

You don’t need to bleed the injector pipes on this engine (unless run it dry) and you are pointing to the wrong bolts for that. The high pressure lines come into the side of the injectors and the low pressure leak-off lines are at the top. You also give confused advice on the Racor 500FG filter as it must be kept filled close to the top of the cast chamber, way above the clear bowl. I Hope you have some means of filling that and viewing the level. You just minimize the trapped air on these instead of bleeding. That seems the wrong filter for this installation unless you have good top access for servicing as this engine only needs the smallest of Racors. Also the high location suggests that a filter with integral primer pump might be best like the 200 series. Yes, the bleed screw at the injection pump inlet is difficult but you can used a long Philips driver plus the box wrench for breaking it open then final tightening. I made a custom 90deg bent extra long box wrench to suit this task. A 1 /4” drive socket with extra long extension is also good.

[@hadlock]

I'm not positive, but pretty sure this is the factory setup from j boats factory.

[@dp5475]

It's the 10mm on the fuel filter that's the bleed, not the 12

[@superformOG]

"i dont know what this thing does" hahaha - I have a question for you, where is your fuel tank in relation to your racor filter, above same level or below?

[@bullish_intentions]

Jesus loves you.

[@farnorth7314]

What??

[@WESTOFEDEN71]

Sir- I pardon muself and retratct.my previous fun poking. MY 1973 yamar 2GM20F F as in FUCK will not prime past the air arrester. And that is what happens to a girl who sits unrun for 2 long. I'm a diesel mech and this has me cursing. Ima hoist a sail

[@josephvalle9178]

Ya hard to watch

[@mbiriviri]

If you don’t even know the bleed screw is on a fuel filter don’t make a how-to video!!! Guess you never change that filter… saying fuck doesn’t cover ignorance.

[@johngagne33]

Bad language . .