Block signalling SS2A DC shuttle

[@combatbunny9820]

Excellent Thankyou for the further update

[@livewithtimshobbydesk522]

You welcome thanks for watching

[@tonyroe2299]

Thank you for the video. Really informative, and gives me some good plans!

[@livewithtimshobbydesk522]

Thanks for watching

[@AberystwythStation]

Hi Tim. Excellent video. You explained the module in an easy and understanding way 👍. Given me an idea too, but that won't be discussed for a very long time... Stay safe mate, kind regards GWR

[@livewithtimshobbydesk522]

Thanks CG. although this is not my typical type of video I think it done good lol lots more to come with more of Rosie taking the spot light see you soon

[@terrymosley3835]

Hi Tim can you do a simple wiring diagram for the connecting of the other line does it need another diode on the line Great easy explanation Terry

[@ModelTrainOutsider]

Very cool stuff, Tim. Very cool indeed!

[@livewithtimshobbydesk522]

Thank you Anthony we hope to go down the line with some extra gadgets on this layout.

[@normanrowe2831]

Hi Tim, Interesting. I need to see this in action on the layout. See ya.

[@livewithtimshobbydesk522]

Its working well on the layout so more videos with it in use on the way :)

[@normanrowe2831]

Cool

[@nigelwright7557]

You dont have to unplug it to change the time. As for a shock you have no chance with 12 volts. Also the timer is the time to get to the other end plus the delay at the other end.

[@richlawrence4160]

looks like the timer is just how long before the controller reverses the current, nothing to do with the position of the train. The diode controlled rail break stops the train, while the controller always sends power. Great idea using the insulated point to swap the trains.

[@moorlandmodelrailwayandy]

Only just got the notification so I'll watch after Ollie 👍cheers Andy

[@livewithtimshobbydesk522]

I dont like that notification thing lol hope you enjoy it.

[@andrewcummins-15thstreetya80]

Nice control unit, with reference to the locomotive briefly moving on the stored siding upon switching the point direction.You may be able to use a seep point motor (PM2) with the built in switch over contact strip. Which could be used to cut the power of either storage track when point is against it.

[@livewithtimshobbydesk522]

Thank you Andrew we may be looking into some of the other chips Block signalling do but for now this is ok but the (PM2) may help.

[@duncan1945]

Hi Tim, Great video, you really know your electrics. I as well thought the timer was for how long it stopped each end. I've been struggling all day with mine. It runs back and forth but stays for strange times each end, 4 seconds sometimes then 10 minutes at the other, sometimes stops in the middle waits a few seconds then carries on. Does not start off slowly then gets faster then slow again as it says it does. In the instruction on line it says you can set the memory to different values ????????? HOW i ask myself ha ha ha ha. Do you think I should reset it to factory settings ?? Then start again ? You've been a great help on this one already thanks. All the best Duncan. PS. My first shuttle the SS1A works fine , goes back and forth with no problems.

[@paulathomas4944]

HI Tim. Blocksignalling do a shuttle called the PTS1 which can also control 2 points allowing you run more than one train. Possibly more than you need for the Heritage Line but may be of interest to your dad? ATB Paula

[@livewithtimshobbydesk522]

Hi Paula thank you for you last lot of wisdom, We have change the heritage line and does not go under boards that we cant get to, Also station has changed a bit but thats in a coming video. I have been looking at a number of there chips and I may replace this in the future. Thanks for the support and help

[@melvinfackler8282]

Wello done, Tim

[@livewithtimshobbydesk522]

Thank you Melvin :)

[@les-halestation]

Hi. I want to do the same. If I'm running a 2 car emu, when it leaves one end going forward do I have to have the breakers it encompasses both cars ,and when it goes to the other end the breaker needs only to cover the motor bogie or 1st car? Hope this makes sense. Its the gap from end to where to put breaker

[@umathepug9788]

Good video are they expensive to buy

[@livewithtimshobbydesk522]

£25 I thought I put it in the video but I didnt lol Thanks for watching

[@whitewallwheels1hardcore.m_o_h]

you full of busy there tim relax a bit enjoy the sun with 0 gauge

[@livewithtimshobbydesk522]

We are out every day playing the O gauge :) its fun to sit back and watch them go, Also I have to be busy if im not I will go mad

[@whitewallwheels1hardcore.m_o_h]

yes thats true the brass kernal that pushed into the body shell i been on all afternoon getting the kernal off the screw made then to find the holder it fits in snapped off the body shell had to glue that back then push in the kernal and glue it - then to find the old fixing screw will not go all the way back in as its full of glue in the bodshell so i had to clip a bit off the screw to get it to go back in the hole but its all done now - now i can make a video of all three murdochs for a laugh but theres a gorden to test there is a maroon scots loco to test and play with the new gold plated flying scotsman and make a video - not happy with it there no light on the front in the big lamp they fitted and no flickering bulb in the cab as a firebox