BLOWN ENGINE! TEARDOWN & INSPECTION

This ride on mower has a blown up Briggs and Stratton engine. Let's tear it down and inspect the internal parts. I have a replacement engine to fit afterwards. Will it run?
Thank you to my Patrons
/ daggerwin

[@markharrisllb]

If you’d told me twelve months ago that I'd find lawn mowers fascinating I’d have laughed in your face. They are what all engines were before half of Cape Canaveral went into engines of bikes and cars.They are relatively simple and logical, but not simple or logical for me to attempt what you do even if I was still able bodied. Thank you for whetting my interest with your brilliant videos.

[@basedtonto]

I appreciate the engine autopsy, thanks for showing us!

[@alex5983]

Brilliant video Dagwin, thank you!

[@HI-sc4um]

Yes another good video

[@charleykeenan6171]

Thanks for this video. Unfortunately a lot of people see so many "resurrection" videos they going every single engine can/should be saved and end up wasting a lot of time and money. Cheers and have a great day!

[@wilfvoss]

Sitting at work (this now, of course, means the back bedroom), awaiting urgent PPE calls for the NHS, your videos are a delight. I feel I'm learning something (however, I don't think I will ever have your confidence with an engine!) my son is going to go onto an engineering course, partly due to videos and a shared interest thanks to people like yourself. So thank you... Keep safe...

[@jimclements3190]

Thank you for pulling the piston and two thirds of the rod out,looked like the rod had broke across the bolt holes,good vid mate👍

[@lifeasadairyfarmer101]

Daggerwin really knows his stuff great video!

[@toasty1690]

Is this really Daggerwin

[@M.TTT.]

The differences in general aesthetic design of US and Euro/English vehicles is interesting, how culture/environment/precedent changes how they look; the front end on this just looks English. Cheers

[@kevin9c1]

Yeah I think about that all the time. These Westwood machines seem pretty quality to me. Or is someone just going to come in and say it's made by MTD.....lawn tractor meme if there ever was one.

[@Farm_fab]

That block is definitely weldable, for not a lot of money. The crankshaft on the other hand might not be a good investment.

[@samuraidriver4x4]

As a welder I wouldnt weld it. To much contamination in the aluminum.

[@nikboeh1]

Just polish the crankshaft with emery paper and it'll be fine since we are not building a 1000hp slim tolerance engine.

[@Farm_fab]

@@samuraidriver4x4 I would soda blast it before welding it. I had a Honda 13 hp block welded, and it turned out well. There's no reason this wouldn't work on the Briggs.

[@samuraidriver4x4]

My experience is different, the oil just keeps on contaminating the weld seam. Tried to tig weld around 5 cases so far. And besides if you cant do it yourself its gonna cost you 100+ bucks, not worth it

[@Farm_fab]

@@samuraidriver4x4 the Honda block cost me $15 to weld, so that's not a bad price. They mig welded it. Tig can be more destructive for some reason. The weld shop said that they had done a number of these with good results.

[@DevonFerguson.]

Nice video!

[@mjpbase1]

You have a nice voice; confident and calming.

[@MachineryRestorer]

Thank you so much 🙂

[@freetolook3727]

I know people who make it an art to turn a simple chore into a project of drama. - Won't start because the battery is dead. - Gotta go find the battery charger. - Have to repair wires on battery charger because brother somehow destroyer the ends the last time he used it and didn't bother to tell anybody. - Now have to find gas can. - Gas run because mower is out of gas. - Two hours later. - Have to find air compressor because tires are flat. - Too dark to mow, do it tomorrow after work.

[@jimmybroom]

Great video. Thanks for sharing. I love watching these teardown videos.

[@hairlesscat6458]

As another person commented, I used to think of lawnmowers as things that exist but weren’t interesting. But this is quite interesting.

[@toddabbott781]

You could just JB Weld that hole in the crank case. There is no pressure or sitting oil there, so it should be just fine. If you had another engine to get the connecting rod and crank from (assuming it was no good) and maybe some new pistol rings, oil, and spark plug it would be as good as new. That new engine sounded loud (or the mic was just picking up too much).

[@lawnmowerdude]

I’ve done that before.

[@ciaranclenaghan4953]

Great video keep it up

[@henriknordeng]

That turned in to a speed demon with that extra 0.5 horse power ;)

[@simonvanabbema5294]

great video like always

[@freetolook3727]

Get some Taryl putty to fill that hole in the crankcase. It's not under pressure so it'll hold. Grind down the journal bearing and clean it up. A good machine shop can bring it back if it's gouged too much. For the cost of a rod, I think that engine could be brought back to life easily and inexpensively. It would make a good video!

[@Chris-uu3cp]

Good stuff! Thanks for sharing!

[@gracjanwatches8965]

This is yet again another good vid from you. Keep up with the great work!

[@HainjeDAF]

Good video, I like the voice over

[@latvianballmapper9364]

Found this from your main Channel and i see some really high quality content keep up the good work!!! Wish all the best for your channels

[@HamiltonvilleFarm]

Very well edited video. I enjoyed watching your work.

[@garyz2043]

Nice video,is that the right word?You got all the right tools and that is enjoyable to watch.I just make do with what I got and get by. : )

[@thetrader7613]

keep up the good work man. You are one of my all time FAV's on youtube

[@donlindacarroll2711]

Thanks for another great video!

[@18birko1]

Great video! Amazing to see more restoration videos!

[@MachineryRestorer]

Thanks, yes more restorations coming up. I have one in progress and then many more planned but each one takes around 4-6 months which is why I do the "Will it Run" videos in between.

[@viktorletirant3891]

beautiful video , merci.

[@kcraig51]

For future reference - You can usually save those crankshafts by mixing up some strong lye water and soaking the crank over night. De-grease it good first. The lye will eat the aluminum, but won't touch the cast iron. It will turn it black, but just polish it off with coarse Scotch-Brite. Good as new!

[@steadywatching2888]

Another great video as always!

[@WhataTry]

Great video as always

[@aitorror3659]

this engine is still very much repairable, hole in the crank case is not very large and there's not really any real pressure going on in the crank case of those engines either, if block is aluminum, its as easy as just grabbing either a TIG or MIG welder, some aluminum rod/wire and filling up the hole, especially since it doesn't seem to be in a place under a lot of stress. Crank shaft is the only real problem, if its trashed, I wouldn't think getting a replacement one would be to expensive and certainly it would be cheaper than a whole new engine, as those are quite pricey.

[@BradyBegeman]

On the other hand if you don’t have a TIG setup or don’t know how to weld aluminum and you have a motor you scrapped from another machine, this may be the lowest cost option.

[@lawrencecarroll2031]

@@BradyBegeman You think JB Weld would work?

[@evan_kumar]

The Jedi master’s engineering technique

[@tonybaggett1984]

The happiest birds in the world!

[@jimmypopp2695]

Another great video!

[@Herbybandit]

Not sure if you know but Westwood was bought out by Countax in the 90's, Countax made a few design changes and made it economical to basically share the exact same chassis, cutting decks and many, many parts except the body, so if your stuck for a Westwood part look to Countax and vice versa. And the chassis is made to accept Briggs, Koler or Kawasaki motors.

[@hotwheelsracer6380]

When you took off the head gasket, between the oil Valley where the pushrods are and the cylinder, there's streaks on the casting where the gasket sit, that's from the combustion firing back through into the crankcase, that engine had a blown head gasket and it cause the engine to suck oil passed the head gasket making it burn oil, causing the engine to run low, also explaining why there's so much carbon

[@davidfist7801]

Another nice little mower, and it took minimal effort compared to your normal videos.

[@freetolook3727]

I have a MTD mower that's 11 years old, still runs and does what it's supposed to. I know guys who bought the same lawn tractor and in three years it was a rusted broken down pile of junk.

[@Robert-mt9jw]

Did you put oil in it?

[@AJPsWorkshop]

Great video shame about the block but loads of good spare parts

[@ramslade]

very nice..

[@eddiepatterson5025]

The crankcase could be repaired with JB weld and the crankshaft could be polished with emery cloth maybe 🤔 find a good con-rod. It might last a while maybe 🤔. Ya never know till ya try. Have a Blessed One Sir.

[@Spudchucker92]

People really are stupid nowadays, they don't maintain or look after anything because there's this emphasis on disposability. Buy something, run it into the ground, buy another.

[@reedsmechanical3663]

indeed they are, i bought a honda 200sx quad. Thing has been abused to the moon and back. Got it running a few weeks ago and she purrs like a kitten. It's a shame how some engines get abused by their owners. Just because some preventative maintenance couldn't be done.

[@garyz2043]

Soon it will be all electric so there will be nothing we could do, Boo,I object!

[@bigDbigDbigD]

A fellow with your serious talents deserves a much better shop.

[@Shadowsoul2701]

Honestly, not surprising for an intek to have major issues.

[@rpavlik1]

Thanks for another good video! Ah yes, the old "crap, that didn't sound good. I better add some oil" trick. If this were a classic Tecumseh Snow King, it would have blown a hole the size of a grapefruit in the block when that con rod went. Everytime I see an exhaust gasket, I'm reminded that my leaf blower still has an asbestos-containing exhaust gasket (it's not even that old! Less than 30) that is intact but wearing out, and that I need to replace at some point with a custom non-asbestos one (because the replacement parts are still asbestos) This is the kind of thing that makes me wish my chosen starter welder could do aluminum. Guess I'll have to settle for not blowing out any crankcases 😁 Oh man, I nearly did an engine swap on my push mower for nothing because of that "same size engine, different marking" thing. Think mine was marked 4 or 5hp, got a bad mower with a good motor marked 6.5 - fortunately I did the nerdy thing and looked up the docs first, both series 12 Quantum iirc (so 12cu in displacement). Might have even been the same model number. On the flip side, my new lawn tractor seemed a lot beefier than my old one, beyond the 16 to 18hp change: looked it up, and yep, went from a series 30 to series 35 Vanguard v-twin, a whole extra 5cu in displacement. That will definitely sound different 😁

[@M.TTT.]

wow, didn't know those tecumseh were so destructive, had a powersports one on a go kart that did well for me - and what mfg is the leaf blower?

[@rpavlik1]

@@M.TTT. the Tecumseh also don't really tolerate being tilted very far for very long while running, which can combine with oil neglect in a snow blower to trigger the boom, especially if you try to move a snowbank The blower is a Homelite Backpacker: nothing amazing, but the right form factor for my yard size.

[@5.43v]

Good video

[@tcar]

Actually you could repair the crankcase there is no pressure or veins for water or oil behind there. Then take the crankshaft and resurface the journal. New rings, rod and should be back on work. Would also make a nice video.

[@TestECull]

That compression release might just be why my 18hp version of that engine is such a bitch to start. Have to roll the engine past compression by hand and let the flywheel get some inertia or the starter can't push it through. And if so...fuckit getting an 18hp boxer to replace.

[@mdutchy2582]

Ive done the same thing. I would write on the inside of the seat when I changed the oil and kept pretty routine about it. But I wasnt checking the stick. One day it just made a ruckus and quit. No oil. Now I check the oil when I put gas in it. Every time.

[@M.TTT.]

I like how as engines are newer, they like to add an extra half horse or 2, even if all the parts are the same. Granted, half horse could probably be attained thru carb/air filter and port/polishing a little.

[@jamesb1221222]

Yeah, I was thinking maybe slightly bigger carb jets or something like you said lol. I'd like to see the actual output on some of these engines. I'm betting the specs are a bit overrated. I think briggs or someone got burned on that in the past, didn't they?

[@M.TTT.]

@@jamesb1221222 hmm not sure about a company catching flak, but briggs probably would, they did go under afterall. Some of their later engines for Toro and stuff are junk.

[@hallabat5542]

tap the aluminum back in place clean the block and put a patch of jb weld on it then buy a used connecting rod see if itll live again i love those types of challenges and there fairly easy to do for fun

[@guyina4x499]

I threw about 30 of those engines in my scrap pile last year. All broken the same way. I'm pretty sure they're just so poorly made it doesn't matter if you've serviced it properly or not. They're going to blow. I don't even bother saving parts from them any more. The headgasket was blown, that's where all the oil went. #Briggs&Scrapiron

[@MacGyver-1]

I think the diagnosis of lack of oil being the cause is wrong, since you found one of the connecting rod bolts fully intact and not bent the failure was that the intact bolt you found worked it's way out and caused the connecting rod to break. I'm sure it wasn't fully topped off but you did remove quite a bit of used oil from the engine

[@lawrencecarroll2031]

I always enjoy a good "autopsy"!!

[@charlesarnold4963]

Great video. Is the v-belt round the steering column an essential part of the repair? lol!

[@joebrock9784]

When you read that Briggs and Stratton Mail is running high zinc oil so it’s better off if you wanna even missing 40 diesel oil because the soil still has the link in it and we use lineup with our nuts on top the little brown belt test sometimes locks motorcycle problem to library and so I was loose quite often and then you have to tighten them up but if you tighten them up and leave it in his favorite itself loose again please that’s in my experience with a double at single leasing on that everyone that I takeoff the frame to make sure I don’t have that problem or a come back in future for that loosen because people think that the loose engine is blown up a lot of times it

[@trekkersforever85]

Great video! I've learned so much from this channel. It was hard to tell on the sound of the engine turning at the beginning. What was the sound that signaled to you immediately it was a connecting rod failure? A metallic clicking? Just not sure and couldn't discern from the video. Thanks!

[@MRrwmac]

If the the steel portion of the crankshaft wasn’t scored, you’re good enough to weld the crankcase, since it doesn’t create pressure.

[@Titan604]

Operator "Oh, look, the engine has stopped making blue smoke, that's good isn't it? "

[@v-g-z3689]

Next moment: bing!!!!!!!

[@DC_PRL]

I'll be digging into my B&S 19.5 hp pretty soon. Good video. My RPMs won't go any lower than 2000, do you think it is a governor? I also rebuilt the original carb, then swapped out for a cheap china knock off, no difference, just runs richer and back fires

[@eckythump6429]

Nice video. The Honda v-twin in my Countax has let go in a similar fashion when my lad ran over a sleeper with the mower running. Have you replaced any of the engines on these mowers with one from an alternative manufacture or one of the Chinese clones? Not having any luck finding a replacement Honda and not sure if the electronics on the tractor will work with an alternative.

[@ShainAndrews]

I'd clean up the crank. It is is serviceable I'd weld the case, new connecting rod. Hone the cylinder new rings and call it a day. If somebody were paying for the work it would be a used engine.

[@TS50ER]

Pretty big piston, what cc are those engines?

[@robertmailhos8159]

From the looks of the carbon that engine was knocking it little bit

[@dietznutz1]

JB weld the hole

[@rodneybrand8521]

I don't understand what part of check oil before operating they dont get...i see this more than i should..

[@M.TTT.]

I almost never check oil everytime unless there's an obvious reason too, ie oil on the floor or oil-dust on the engine etc, but it is better to check.

[@sandwichbar8226]

That looks super clean! What year is it?

[@465painkiller465]

Great video! Would it be a waste of time to try and weld the case back together? To me as a non professional it kinda looks doable

[@williamfromky8109]

Did you build that side lift?? I've been struggling with a floor jack for too long. I'm getting steel together so I can build one.

[@ernmeister54]

I wonder if you could fix the crankcase with one of those aluminum rods I see advertised all the time?

[@hunter7476]

Come on guys if y’all checked your oil this stuff wouldn’t happen but then again there wouldn’t be anything like this to learn about when an engine fails thanks dagger win

[@jayplays3062]

What do you do with the other mowers

[@Saskrancher4754]

I just rebuilt on of those engines

[@liamhoanzl2920]

Hey do you know the valve clarence on this engine?

[@themeparkkieran4573]

Hey dagger will you give us an update on that land you have or were looking after

[@johnraley5713]

I think what you called the oil slinger was actually the governor. Or is it both?

[@MachineryRestorer]

Yes it's both

[@7eis]

These like to poke holes in the blocks too

[@j81851]

A crack ACE welder with a good machine and correct wire/electrodes could weld that block. unless the damage was worse than it looked. Agree your decision and option is best just throw a known good engine on it and go!

[@reubenjackson7829]

Where do you find these to restore?

[@dylansrepairshop3345]

That is why you always check the oil before you run the machine

[@unsafeweevil2041]

That is the governor/oilpump

[@zacknrudi]

When you pulled the sump away my eyes went straight for that cast metal lump thingy apparently attached to the crankshaft, I've never seen this inside a small engine before. What trickery is this?

[@jacobjackson2974]

I've been in this same series of engine of my own. The thing you're referring to is called AVS, which stands for anti-vibration system. To my knowledge, it stays in place while the crankshaft rotates and helps mitigate the vibrations. These series of engine run pretty smooth so it must do its job

[@zacknrudi]

@@jacobjackson2974 Thanks man! Some more bearings to starve of oil when you neglect your oil level.

[@huntersmith585]

I dont understand why people dont check the oil on the mower most of the newer mowers have a sticker to tell you to

[@Denvermorgan2000]

I had the same thing with a snapper my block is actully ok but i figured it was better to buy a surplus engine.

[@TevisC]

Tig weld the hole shut?

[@alanjanderson9789]

Beening alloy That case could be TIG welded up new rod and crank repair and its a goer

[@thred6252]

what do you do with all the mowers

[@JoelDunstan]

probably sells them? worth good money

[@pospc2]

Not sure who you are... KZbin sent me. Will likely be back to your channel.

[@alexbick326]

Are all the engines mouse you have fixt

[@scottlutherjr830]

Just some jbm 😁😁

[@jacobmann8180]

Daggerwin

[@scottlutherjr830]

That was the governor

[@jasonmccallum5915]

Got a bearing out somewhere mind.

[@bikerdave1274]

Needs customising with a Massey Ferguson 135 sticker, wide tyres and a beacon.... 🤔Wait, wrong channel 🤣

[@stevenwright1461]

Whip the crank out polish with fine emery tig weld crank case new conrod gaskets job done

[@michaelbenoit248]

Even if it’s repairable, it’s not worth it. Those engines were garbage from factory. It’s much cheaper to just get a used one by the time you get a rod, gaskets, weld the block, only to find out the crank is trash, then you risk it blowing up again if you don’t do the rebuild right.