Blown Head Gaskets on 2006 Kia Sedona 3.8L V6. Part 1: Diagnose Gaskets & Remove Front Timing Cover

[@ArielZili]

Great great Video bro gj

[@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873]

Hi. Thanks for watching and takin the time to comment. I have I think 6 videos on this Kia issue including an "alternative" stripped head bolt modification that just didn't work. Great idea. Just didn't work. In the end I junked it. It's just not worth fixing a 250,000 mile 2006 Kia with an obsolete engine. Kia/Hyundi makes an engine for just a few years and replaces it with a new design that's not backwards (or forwards) compatible. One of my videos in this series, might even be this one helped a beginner DIYer do their timing chains. Through the comment section we messaged back and forth and he managed to get the chains and tensioners replaced and the engine running again.

[@vernonbosshard9317]

For some reason the 3.8s had a problem with dumping oil on the alt and killing it, I replaced the VC gaskets on this Sedona prior to them overheating it, it now has oil all over it again, not sure what the problem is, I will find out. Any how, the motor is coming apart and will be rebuilt. Prob looking at 500 to 700 in parts for this beast. Interior is clean, seats are in good shape has dual AC/heat. 161K miles on the clock. No wrecks. Paid 500 for it, towed it home, They were driving up until the rad went out and it got hot. Sat for 3 yrs, now the motor is stiff. I will try to do a youtube vid since there are many on the 3.8 Sedona.

[@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873]

Hi. Just so you know and can prepare to spend $400 - $600 on a Steel Insert Head Bolt Thread Kit, you're going to have stripped head bolt threads which you won't find until you start to crank down with the new Torque To Yield Head Bolts. They're like a hot knife through butter. Here's my video of the threads stripping in real time doing the Torque To Yield 120 Degree pull. It did it on every bolts except one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJrKoHibopVlpM0 I didn't want to spend that much on a one use tool that even on eBay folks were selling their used ones for the same price as a new kit and so tried an experiment to thread the top of the head bolt hole and put inserts at the top. Great idea, but won't work given the ID of the hole and OD of existing inserts that are at least an inch long. I've got 8 videos on this KIA. This one is where I say "My experiment just won't work": kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWHClYh_fcplq8U I back burnered the project and did some research on other Kits besides Manufacturer Approved Time Sert Kit which is close to $600 after factoring in everything. I'm going to go with the Huhn Solutions Kit for just over $400. I like the method of that kit better than Time Sert. It doesn't matter what make/model engine you have. It happen with a Chevy LS engine. The manufacturers skimp on the build and don't install inserts. The bolts work themselves loose and the heads move around. The head gasket is the symptom, not the cause. In your case as far as you know, the radiator was the culprit, but I assure you when you attempt to torque down the heads, you're going to strip threads. Might only be one, but if it's just one it might as well be all of them. There's countless other videos I found after I experienced this on every engine you can imagine, the KIA/Hyundi 3.8 Lambda included. Just be prepared. I'm going to copy and paste my response to your other comments in the hopes you see it.

[@chebrets]

Hey, I guess the oil comes mostly from timing chain cover and causes the alternator failure

[@vernonbosshard9317]

@@chebrets Prob, since we did the VC gaskets and it still leaked, hard to tell where it was coming from, and the thought of a clogged PCV system came to mind, pressurized crankcase will push oil out. All I know we had a Sorento and a Sedona, both had the 3.8, both alts failed the same way multiple times. Advance told us we had no warranty after the first exchange, I didn't disagree.

[@chebrets]

@@vernonbosshard9317 yeah, bad pcv could be the reason

[@vernonbosshard9317]

@@chebrets I got this one torn apart, there is oil sludge all over the outside, multiple oil leaks. Internal engine looks bad. Rusty chain and cams from the water. Its seized up.

[@vernonbosshard9317]

Seems to be ample room to work, I intend to remove the cond, rad and front bumper anyway to gain room, AC leaked down sitting so no worries ozone huggers.. Basically doing an in-block overhaul it looks like.

[@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873]

Hi. Just so you know and can prepare to spend $400 - $600 on a Steel Insert Head Bolt Thread Kit, you're going to have stripped head bolt threads which you won't find until you start to crank down with the new Torque To Yield Head Bolts. They're like a hot knife through butter. Here's my video of the threads stripping in real time doing the Torque To Yield 120 Degree pull. It did it on every bolts except one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJrKoHibopVlpM0 I didn't want to spend that much on a one use tool that even on eBay folks were selling their used ones for the same price as a new kit and so tried an experiment to thread the top of the head bolt hole and put inserts at the top. Great idea, but won't work given the ID of the hole and OD of existing inserts that are at least an inch long. I've got 8 videos on this KIA. This one is where I say "My experiment just won't work": kzbin.info/www/bejne/pWHClYh_fcplq8U I back burnered the project and did some research on other Kits besides Manufacturer Approved Time Sert Kit which is close to $600 after factoring in everything. I'm going to go with the Huhn Solutions Kit for just over $400. I like the method of that kit better than Time Sert. It doesn't matter what make/model engine you have. It happen with a Chevy LS engine. The manufacturers skimp on the build and don't install inserts. The bolts work themselves loose and the heads move around. The head gasket is the symptom, not the cause. In your case as far as you know, the radiator was the culprit, but I assure you when you attempt to torque down the heads, you're going to strip threads. Might only be one, but if it's just one it might as well be all of them. There's countless other videos I found after I experienced this on every engine you can imagine, the KIA/Hyundi 3.8 Lambda included. Just be prepared. I'm going to copy and paste my response to your other comments in the hopes you see it.

[@AllreadyBooi]

Same thing happened to me. The plastic T broke and dumped all the coolant. Luckily it only blew the cap off the radiator. Part was like $3 and took 15 mins to fix

[@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873]

Hi. Thanks for watching and takin the time to comment. Glad it was just the T fitting on yours. Don't know on mine whether it was the chicken or the egg. I did a whole series of videos on the engine and head bolts. I was trying a work around regarding the stripped head bolt threads and trying to put inserts up at the top. If you've seen the series I did, it was a great idea that just due to how much metal there is to work with just didn't work, but I had fun trying. Bottom line, if you do end up with blown head gaskets in an aluminum block engine, regardless of make/model. Just junk it. The insert tool and inserts will cost you $400-$600, and at least 40 hours to drill and tap and put in the inserts and reassemble the engine and hope there's no leaks. It's just not worth it. My final video in the series shows the Kia going down the road on a flatbed. Got $600 for it and put AC in my truck lol. Thanks again for watching.

[@vernonbosshard9317]

I think those same two cyls are blown on mine. Those two have rusty valves.

[@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873]

It actually lost 5 cylinders while driving at highway speeds.

[@tiburon2781]

Did you remove the wheel to get to that pully

[@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873]

Hi thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Yes Front Right wheel has to come off and some shields if I recall to get to the balancer and the other appliances for that matter. Honestly if you have blown head gaskets, just junk it. The Torque to Yield Head Bolts will strip out the threads in the aluminum block when putting it back together. The Insert Tool is about $600 and it will take 2 days to drill, tap, and install the 16 inserts and another few days to get it all back together. If you watch all my videos in the series on this, after trying a work around, I junked it for $500.

[@tiburon2781]

@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 My engine is still good. I bought it from a dealer and I noticed a rattle when starting it. After doing some research I found out that the timing chain tensioners go out. I plan on replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners. I just don't see much info on hyundai entourage vans but I found out that the KIA sedona is the same. I am not a mechanic but I don't want my money to do down the drain. I bout my van in a state where they can sell as is, and the dealer wants no responsibility. I just hope I can get the job done, or I will loose the only savings I've had for a vehicle.

[@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873]

Hi. Yes could be the tensioners, a rod bearing (Kia/Hyundai are notorious for this) or a lifter bucket. This job is not for the faint of heart. Intake, valve covers, all the pumps etc have to come off. The water pump is part of the cover. There's numerous seals. It's a big job. That balancer/pulley will come off by hand w/o a puller. If you feel you must dive into it, lock it at TDC (Ignition stroke - cams turn once to crank turning twice), lock the cams, note and photo and video the cam timing marks from every angle, put some extra nail polish or some kind of paint parks and just change the tensioners and rails. Leave the chains alone. The new tensioners will come with a hand grenade pin or something locking them. Don't pull that until after they're installed or you'll never get them in. Once they're unlocked it's like trying to get the Geni back in the bottle. You'll see removing the old ones are loaded with spring tension and when you undo the bolts: boing! There's no gasket for the outer perimeter of the Front Cover. You seal it with BLACK RTV. Too much is too much and too little is too little and it will leak either way, and too much also squeezes it into the inside where it gets loose and clogs the oil pump pickup. I've rebuilt way too many engines that someone else gave it a try, made mistakes, and had me fix them. If you're still compelled to dive into this replace the plastic T fitting in the heater hoses up against the firewall that live under the air intake plenum under the throttle valve. If it runs I'd sell it. There's no turning back once you tear into it, and no mechanic is going to risk coming behind you. May Force Be With You...

[@tiburon2781]

@@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873 Thanx for the advise, I already have one valve cover off, I am going to support the engine and remove the passenger wheel after I remove the second valve cover. I ordered new timing chains for the repair. So is replacing the chains a bad idea? Also to lock the engine at TDC I have to put it in neutral, move the crank to TDC, then put it back in park and this will lock it at TDC?I am worried about the timing cover sealant. Do you have a good example on how much sealant to use?

[@mkdhdinfiniteendlessconten3873]

Hi. The chains are expensive, stretch a small amount compared to wear on the guide rails. The tensioners with good rails will take up chain stretch. R/R the chains is high level task. As long as you don't rotate the crank with it apart it's in a "Virtual Lock". Only way you can physically lock the crank directly as I referred to is to actually physically lock it with clamps. I don't 100% recall, but that engine might also have an internal mark with the cover off that lines up with the key in the crank. My other videos of getting the cover off and showing the cam timing marks might show all that. It's been a while, so I don't recall. Once you have both valve covers off you'll find the tiny cam timing marks for all 4 cams which line up with the top edge of the heads when you're at TDC for compression/ignition with all 4 valves (2 int 2 exh) for number one cylinder closed which you can tell by the cam lobe position. You can VERY CAREFULLY lock the cams with vice grips and rags once you've got all the marks lined up. About 1/16th bead down the center and around the bolt holes on the RTV. Use the Cheese Wiz style can of Balck Permatex. Your hands will cramp trying to do it with tubes. The other trick is not messing it up getting the cover back in w/o touching anything before you get it in place.