Blue Sea Systems Add-A-Battery Kit

[@daveengstrom9250]

Actually what your ACR does is it makes a "battery switch" automatic so you don't have to keep changing the switch. MOST people do not use their battery switch correctly in the first place. Some have blown their alternators by changing the switch with the engine running (a big no no). The ACR is best described as "wire it in and forget about it".

[@jeremyjones5386]

I’m planning on adding this kit to my boat soon. Looks like you used 6AWG for everything? Have you seen any issues with this at all? I only ask because the instructions in the kit call for 4/0 AWG (120mm) cable on the switch posts and 6AWG (16mm) cable for everything else. The instructions also call for 90-100AMP fuses for the ACR to battery post connections. Have you seen any issues running the smaller fuses?

[@BrianGaberFishing]

I've used 6AWG wire for everything and 50 amp fuses with no issues. I've got the same system set up on my 5th new boat and running great.

[@jeremyjones5386]

Appreciate the reply! That makes sense. I’m seeing in the instructions there’s also a fuse/breaker on switch post 2 going to the fuse panel. Are you using one? If so, what size?

[@DaveK690]

Very helpful video, thank you. I know this post is getting old, but I am putting together a shopping list. The diagram is hard to read on wire gauges. You are using 2AWG from the batteries to the switch and also from batteries to the bus bar. You use 6AWG from battery Positive to 65 amp inline fuse and then to the ACR (not on diagram, but in video). Finally you use 16 AWG from bus bar to ACR with a 10 AMP fuse. Assuming I read that correctly (16 AWG), the link you gave us for the 10 AMP fuse is for 14 AWG wire. Is that correct, or did the link change? Thanks, Dave

[@BrianGaberFishing]

Thanks Dave. Let me check my list from last year and see what I did. I just pulled my new boat into the shop and I am going to set this up again. I'll get back to you in a bit.

[@rossevans1774]

You said you only require the smaller 65A ACR so why did you install the 120A ACR in your boat?

[@BrianGaberFishing]

I had one...that's it

[@jonathanwalton2746]

@@BrianGaberFishing curious why did you install 2 65A in line fuses instead of larger ones ahead of the ACR if it’s a 120A capacity ACR?

[@Jason.F.]

I'm curious also

[@BluefinToona]

Hi. Thank you for this informative video. Now when I get home and have switched the ACR to Off. The green light flashes every 15 seconds standby mode. Will this drain either battery if the boat is not run for a few weeks?? How can I overcome this parasitic draw??

[@BrianGaberFishing]

Thanks for that great question. I believe that over time that led will drain your battery slowly. Disconnecting like you've described is likely the way of your are spring your boat for longer periods. If there is lead power to the unit, I believe that light is in some status of on (steady, slow blinking, fast blinking). I have my charger on or small period of storage when I'm "in season", otherwise the batteries are out and stored.

[@BluefinToona]

​@@BrianGaberFishing Thanks for replying. I plan on running the boat at least once every 2 weeks.. so not sure if that's long enough for the batteries to be drained..Trying to figure out how to add a killswitch to the ACR to avoid this parasitic draw..

[@BrianGaberFishing]

Maybe adding a fuse to the inbound (to the ACR) power that you could just pull the fuse? Might save the switch cost?

[@BluefinToona]

@@BrianGaberFishing I already have a fuse going from the ACR to the ground as shown in the diagrams.. do I just add a on off switch to this wire?

[@BrianGaberFishing]

The ACR led is sensing power from the positive lead to the ACR. Thinking you have to switch that if you want to cut all power while storing. Ill check around some more

[@gatgolf]

I have a 1750 superhawk and would like to do the same project. How much more difficult would it be if I mounted the new house battery on the opposite side of the boat? RIght now the single battery is under the the starboard jump seat, I would like to add the new house battery under the port side jump seat for weight distribution. Would alot of extra cabling or complexity be involved?

[@BrianGaberFishing]

I don't think it would be any more difficult as long as you have access. The wiring would be longer, but everything would hook up just the same as my short run in the same compartment. Using a 6 gauge flexible marine grade wire will assure no issues in runs across the back of your boat.

[@gatgolf]

@@BrianGaberFishing Thanks Brian, 2 more questions if I may; 1. with the extra weight on the battery side did you cause any balance/listing issues when it's just you in the boat? 2. Where did you connect the 12V wire for the starting isolation from the ignition?

[@BrianGaberFishing]

@@gatgolf Thanks Chris. No It didn't throw me out of balance with my batteries on one side. My livewell is on the other and that usually has water in it. I used a multi-meter to find out with wire had 12 volts on start on my ignition switch and used a wire connector to attach the starting isolation. There's a lead for the "run" position that gets 12V when you turn the key to the first position. You want the second position or the "start" position.

[@TheGeguzis]

Does ACR from this kit protects Home battery from voltage spikes/drops when cranking engine if Start isolation wire is not connected to outboard ? My engine is not remote controlled and starting button is integrated into engine, so there is not a lot possibilities to attach wire to ACR port "Start Isolation".

[@BrianGaberFishing]

Thanks for the question. This kit has a terminal on the front of the ACR to run a lead to the ignition. It won't provide protection without that lead. It is an optional connection. Even though the action of starting the engine will always cause the battery voltage to drop, I have not had a classic problem of chartplotters and other electronics resetting and restarting upon cranking. I haven't needed to connect the lead. Most chartplotters and other sensitive electronics have fuses in their power line to protect them in case of a surge. If it becomes a problem, I will connect mine. If your sensitive electronics are fused protected , you could test and see if any issues present. I haven't had a single spike that I ever detected or low voltage that caused even a simple reset. I referenced the "optional" nature of this feature from a blog from a long time marine electrical expert. shop.pkys.com/What-is-the-Start-Isolation-feature-of-an-ACR-for_b_40.html

[@daveengstrom9250]

The ACR keeps both circuits seperate until you change it to "combine". Then both batteries act as one.

[@sergiotorres5851]

How did you connect the power pole pumps? Did you put the positive for the pumps on the house battery and ground on the ground buss bar?

[@BrianGaberFishing]

Originally I did do that, and I didn't have any troubles. I was always concerned about running the house down too fast with the poles. I've also had all of it connected to the starting battery. I did that so I could start the boat and then stow them. I run around enough that I have never had my starting battery not charged and I've never used my poles enough in a day to challenge the charging of the house battery (always starts...poles always work). The piece of mind comes from starting the boat and always knowing the poles will stow. Make sense?

[@BrianGaberFishing]

**I've never used my poles enough to challenge the charging of the starting battery

[@sergiotorres5851]

@@BrianGaberFishing that makes sense. My main concern was just making sure the pumps are not “on” ever when the boat is in the driveway. How did you end up wiring it?

[@BrianGaberFishing]

@@sergiotorres5851 When I am parking the boat and not using it for a bit (Say not on a maintenance charge), I jut pull the fuses on the pump. Kills the power. No worries about killing a battery. I've got the wiring wrapped so they are easy to get to.

[@wiscowalleye7954]

So I’m going to do this same thing. But my question is this. I just got a mega live. Should I wire it through the boats onboard fuse block or directly to the accessory battery. The boat is a 2020 Lund 1775 impact with a 115hp Mercury. I have all my graphs wired through the onboard fuse block and have had no interference issues.

[@BrianGaberFishing]

The Mega Live Imaging Installation guide recommends that you go to the onboard fuse panel, if you have one. The nice thing about going to the panel is you have a way to assure that power is off to your unit, when you need it off. Usually boats have an accessories toggle switch and that will provide insurance that you don't accidentally leave the unit on and go out in the morning to no power. On page 15 at this link: humminbird.johnsonoutdoors.com/sites/johnsonoutdoors-store/files/assets/misc/HU/H/HUM_productmanual_MEGA-Live-532769E/HUM_productmanual_MEGA-Live-532769E.pdf?_gl=1*lm53tm*_ga*NzAxMjk2MjQ0LjE1MjE0MzIwMzM.*_ga_JE4T2LF5XP*MTYyOTkzMTE2MC40MC4xLjE2Mjk5MzEyMjYuNjA.*_ga_LKQZ6YTSTM*MTYyOTkzMTE2MC4xMy4xLjE2Mjk5MzEyMjYuMA..&_ga=2.209356370.1121783153.1629931163-701296244.1521432033

[@IgorLjevak]

Is it enough with 60A fuses?

[@johnnycampos8233]

Why di you use the Blue Sea system 120 amp and not the mini 65 amp?

[@BrianGaberFishing]

In this video I used the 120 only because that was the one I ordered. I have the mini 65 on a 115hp ProXS this year. Working fine. It's really all about the output amperage of the alternator on the outboard. Your question is spot on.

[@davidcoleman3189]

What buss bar did you use here?

[@BrianGaberFishing]

David, thanks for the question. I used this one amzn.to/34BVRx4

[@sylwesterkwiatkowski4653]

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