How to install dual batteries on a boat | Blue Seas Systems Add-A-Battery

#HowTo #DualBatteries #BlueSeasSystems
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[@AJOutdoors1]

The tools and products I used are in the description above.

[@chrisa3358]

Sir, I was surfing and noticed your video. I am glad to see that you're willing to do a job like this. Suggestion: 1. Remake your board to act as your battery cover and hold down assembly. This makes it very easy and simple to do maintenance on these items every time that you pull a battery. 2. Use metal rod and wing nut type hold down, 4 minimum, - these are available at most auto parts stores. 3. Arrange your components on the board so that they are easily visible while you are on the boat. Pay particular attention to length of wiring in positioning the components. You want to minimize the wiring that you use for weight and visibility. Remember that you will be under stress if anything goes wrong. 4. Use an AYBC approved fuse panel for your house items. If ATO/ATC type fuses are used, ONLY use ATC. ATC are closed fuses. 5. Delete the ground bus bar. It is unnecessary, will reduce the usable battery capacity, and will just add clutter. Where a ground bus is required, they are part of approved fuse panels. Your batteries have more than enough ground space built in. Use a single cable to connect the 2 battery grounds. 6. Run the attaching cables so that they aren't likely to be damaged. 7. Use AYBC approved covers for the battery terminals. Use silicone grease for electric components under the caps for corrosion protection. 8. Attach the house grounds to the house battery and the start grounds to the start battery. 9. If you make any wiring, use Marine Heat Shrink to seal the ends. Ensure all connectors fit securely. 10. Where studs are used, ensure that the lug doesn't rattle without the hardware installed (anti-explosion, many manufacturers make improperly specified lugs). 11. Have it inspected. It is better to have rejection than an electrical fire. Best wishes, V/R Chris

[@AJOutdoors1]

@chrisa3358 thank you for the suggestions, however I no longer own this boat.

[@tylersaladino6162]

You rock dude! On behalf of everyone who will benefit from this video I’d say all our thumbs are up! 👍👍

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you very much Tyler, I really appreciate it!

[@robertsurprenant1205]

Damn good video. Love the fabrication and detail to what goes where and how the entire application needs to fit the compartment. Appreciate the tips on the rubber anti-rub fittings and liquid tape to avoid corrosion. Great stuff. You are a working-class hero sir. Simple to understand and right to the point. I'm getting ready to build the same setup into our Sea Ray. Again huge thanks to you.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Awe, man, thank you for the kind words, I appreciate it. I hope your system works out great for you.

[@StanleyOrchard]

Man that is such a valuable project to do, really helps you to sleep at night before a big fishing trip knowing that you have a back up battery in place if needed. Exceptional videos or keep up the great work!

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, I am really happy with this project!

[@schism420420]

Now that was just what the Dr. ordered !. Thank you for putting the links to Amazon for quick purchase. Very good video , very easy to understand.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, I hope it helped.

[@isaacgallardo8160]

Just gotta say is you damn good job with explaining every detail you went over and WHY you’re doing it👍🏼going to use this set up

[@AJOutdoors1]

Wow, thank you! I really appreciate the kind words.

[@waynecampbell4515]

Great video and I did learn something. You mentioned using liquid electrical tape, great idea. I am doing a total rebuild on my pontoon boat and ofcourse I am installing two batteries and one will be a deep cycle. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you for the kind words, and good luck with the pontoon.

[@semzak]

Good morning and very happy for the prompt reply. I wish you the best and we here in Greece say. Good seas

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you and good seas to you!

[@TheToddclark]

Awesome job - I’m gonna do the same project to my boat

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, good luck.

[@ShootingOutside]

Excellent Project with instructions, very helpful. I'm changing mine out ASAP. Thank you and thanks for the parts list. I'll subscribe and watch many more of your videos. Finally someone who isn't in a big Rush to talk fast and force me to replay over and over to get it. Keep it up man, I'm sold

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, I hope it helps.

[@rockinick]

Thanks for this! It’s a pretty simple setup but there are so many variations and a lot of videos make it seem complicated.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, I hope it helps.

[@johnc.wunscheljr2873]

Good job. I'm just starting my new blue sea system. Now that all the parts came. I took a photo of your board to go back too. Thankyou for sharing.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you and good luck with your project.

[@restorationranchofarkansas6229]

I might not be a goober, but I would have loved to watch you hook up, and explain wiring.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Yeah i probably could have done a better job of that. Thank you.

[@kidritalin1]

That board ..... was brilliant !

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, it made it much easier to install.

[@ASUSfreak]

Nice and simple vid. I recently bought more or less the same from blue sea to install it in my Yamaha RMAX2. Greetings from Belgium

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you and good luck!

[@timiva7621]

Thank you for the video!!! Exactly what I was looking for. You did nice job. It will help me now to install, and enjoy the music when the engine off.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, I appreciate it.

[@jimmyjames7770]

Thank you for the video I got a 1994 Searay one thirty five black max outboard One battery setup definitely want to upgrade. Thanks for the video I think Going to attempt it myself wish me luck I'm gonna do this.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Good luck, it's not that bad.

[@Sv_SeaDuctress]

Great video, want to attempt this, one question, does it matter if you have an AGM as your house battery and a regular lead acid for start battery? Very new at all this appreciate your help.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Folks will say you "should", but I used a regular lead acid for starting and a deep cycle battery for the house. I guess the only issue is if your starting battery died, because deep cycle batteries are not good for starting. But again, I never had an issue.

[@Sv_SeaDuctress]

@AJOutdoors1 really appreciate you back to me, you are a good man!! Will tell everybody I know about your channel. Great content and a good dude who has no problem sharing his knowledge. How has that wiring held up over the years?

[@AJOutdoors1]

@MrFormeypi thank you, I really appreciate it. I sold the Mako last year, I had no issues and so far the new owner hasn’t either. I have a 28’ Grady White now.

[@misterphoenix3684]

Nicely done! Thanks for sharing

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you for the comment and watching.

[@chasharper]

Very helpful tips and thanks so much for showing us how. Hope you and the family are staying safe and healthy my friend have a great week big like 11 here as always. 😀👍

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, hope you and your family are staying safe as well.

[@CProFishingWithWayne]

Great tutorial video John. Two batteries is a must

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thanks, you’re right, I’ll be much more confident when I’m out now.

[@Kaptajn1eye]

11:45 now thats a smile of relief 😊

[@AJOutdoors1]

Yes it was. 😊

[@Kaptajn1eye]

@@AJOutdoors1 I know that feeling 😁

[@vincentmarra1730]

Great video been researching this project and just like you said do it right the first time! Thumbs up for making this easy to follow.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you for the kind words.

[@victorgarza5292]

Nice work. Looking into adding a second battery. This helped immensely. Thank you!

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you Victor, I glad it helped you.

[@Grottolova]

That dirty boat though! Still, I'm glad you made this. Doing electric work isn't difficult. I hope more boaters take on jobs like this.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Hey don't dirty boat shame me! LOL yeah I'll be the first to admit I don't keep the boat very clean. Thanks for watching!

[@Grottolova]

@@AJOutdoors1 🤣🤣🤣 hey be proud! You da man! Thanks for contributing by making these vids. I really do appreciate them.

[@AJOutdoors1]

@@Grottolova Thanks man, I really appreciate it.

[@WellsLarry]

I am thinking you should test the charging system. When the engine is running, measure the terminal voltage on each battery. It should be near 14 Volts. That will indicate that current is flowing into the battery(s) from the engine alternator.

[@lakesidebc]

Great install and explanation! Thanks. Subscribed.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, I appreciate it!

[@PondamnsOutdoors]

My man showing those boat mechanic skills. I don't have the brains or patience to do what you did brother

[@AJOutdoors1]

LOL it ain't as hard as I made it look! :)

[@nathaniellarson8]

Excellent video, exactly what I was looking for. Will be looking to make this a winter project this year.

[@AJOutdoors1]

That's great Nate, I hope it helps you out.

[@1shatzi]

Love the descriptions along the way. Thanks

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, I hope it helps.

[@steveleston1848]

nice video thanks for sharing. I'm planning a new start battery my engine needs 1000cca what type should I get.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Hard question to answer, there are a lot of batteries out there. I like interstate, find one with 1000cca, and with the best warranty.

[@erocia8838]

You the man keep them coming

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you!

[@NYStrucking]

Thanks for this video. I’m gonna do same thing in my pontoon

[@AJOutdoors1]

Great, I'm glad it can help you!

[@paulwilliams8303]

Fairplay nicely done thanks for taking the time

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you for the kind comment.

[@jamesramirez2405]

Nice install I did one on a boat a few months ago turned out nice and works perfect

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you and congrats on doing your own.

[@Jstars200]

Thank you for this video - very informative!

[@AJOutdoors1]

I’m glad you appreciated it, thank you.

[@Jstars200]

@@AJOutdoors1 Btw. I noticed the LED light on ACR was still blinking when I turned switch OFF. Is that because it still drains battery? ALSO - does it mean that you need to disconnect batteries to ACR before disconnecting their cables (need to clean poles).

[@AJOutdoors1]

@@Jstars200 It should not be flashing, I pulled this information for the installation instructions: • Because the m-ACR is dual sensing, the battery connection terminals are interchangeable. m-ACR function will not be affected by reversal of the starting and house batteries versus the diagram. • If the status indicator LED is triple-flashing, the m-ACR is in a lockout state, and will not combine batteries until the lockout condition is removed. Ensure neither battery is below 10V for a 12V system or 20V for a 24V system. • If the status indicator LED is double-flashing, check for positive voltage on the start isolation terminal. • It is recommended that the m-ACR be connected directly to your battery positive terminals through appropriately sized fuses. Connecting in a different location such as a battery switch may affect accuracy because of voltage drop along current carrying conductors.

[@Jstars200]

@@AJOutdoors1 sorted it out. Could be flashing because ACR was connected close to battery terminals which it should.

[@AJOutdoors1]

@@Jstars200 Glad you got it sorted.

[@iliaortho]

Awsome. Will try the same thing. Just so tight under center console

[@AJOutdoors1]

The good thing about this is that you do not have to mount everything close together like I did, that's just what worked best for my setup. Using different lengths of wire, you can put stuff where it fits for your application. Good luck!

[@iliaortho]

@@AJOutdoors1 thank you Sir.

[@deanm5325]

Great video John, I just bought this system for my pontoon and will install shortly. I have a question and sorry if it’s been asked & answered already, but how did you ground the negative buss bar? Is it grounded via the negative cable from the motor? Thanks

[@AJOutdoors1]

Yes all negative cables attach to the negative bus bar, from batteries, engine, and house.

[@deanm5325]

@@AJOutdoors1 cool thanks!

[@AJOutdoors1]

@deanm5325 no problem, happy to help.

[@IgorLjevak]

Awesome video! I will install this in summer. Didn’t get one thing, do you have to put the ignition on to start the lamps? I thought that was the whole thing when I turn the motor of that I can use the hose battery

[@AJOutdoors1]

No, you don't need the ignition on to run the lights.

[@fhernandez07]

CRC Marine Corrosion Inhibitor. Works great.

[@papapillgaming2847]

Hey thanks for the video and the links. I have been thinking of doing this for a while.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you for watching, I hope it helps you.

[@semzak]

Good morning from Greece, very nice video. I would like to ask about the outboard motor that you have, I have one YAMAHA 2 STROCKE 115 V4 and I don't know how many amperes it puts out and I want to compare it with yours, thank you

[@AJOutdoors1]

Hello, thank you for watching the video. My motor is a Mercury 115 2 stroke and max amp output is 65. But understand the motor uses about 20 of that.

[@Rubbernecker]

Now that is a quality installation.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you.

[@brunoplayfaircal]

Great video mate! Very informative. I will use rhe same setup myself on my boat, I just one question, where did you put the fuses on the system?

[@AJOutdoors1]

So the 2 60 amp mount right there on the board. The individual fuses (to house and engine) stay the same. The engine fuse is on the engine in its original location and the fuse for the “house” power line is a inline fuse that I didn’t have to replace.

[@shaskypa]

Hello friend l enjoyed watching your video l did the same to my boat thank you for sharing it with us. Question: Is it normal that after l turn off the battery switch the green solid light on the acr remains on all the time and doesn't go away? I would really appreciate your answer.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Good question, and my answer is I'm not sure. I no longer have the boat I installed this on, or I would check mine out. Your best bet is to contact Blue Seas.

[@scott5747]

I'm wondering if the liquid tape interferes with the electrical current when coating connections or do you coat parts after install?

[@AJOutdoors1]

Coat it after connecting. But it is optional. While it will help protect from corrosion, it is a pain to remove if you have to change anything.

[@theoldshooter9011]

I noticed you did not use the isolator battery mount that isolates the battery cable from each of the batteries to the ACR. When I installed mine I called BS and they were really adamant about using the battery cable isolator. Basically it protected the ACR with a fuse yet did not disrupt the other positive cable as each battery has two positive cables. One item I learned was mixing battery types, e.g. one a gel the other lead acid or some other combination. Doing that can really mess up the ACR as the charging characteristics are different for each battery type and can cause battery damage. Really liked your mounting board. I had to build a "bulkhead" as I had nothing on my pontoon boat to mount all the items.

[@blueback21]

Awesome system what gauge wire is that 1/0

[@AJOutdoors1]

Which wires?

[@blueback21]

@@AJOutdoors1all the red cables

[@AJOutdoors1]

​@blueback21 I believe it is 6awg. The blueseas kit list wire size is needed based on charging amp and fuse needed.

[@biosteamcarpetcarellc8245]

Hey great video, where did you get the plastic plate?

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you. It's called king starboard, I got it on Amazon.

[@ExploringAussie]

Good job nice and clean

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you!

[@fishingfool2644]

Yes you need short protection of the battery post. Blue sea sells rubber battery post covers. You need them on positive and negative. Your throttle cables are directly over the negative terminal and vibration as they rub against the battery can cause chaffing and shorting so protect is a good idea. A dielectric grease is an insulator and is not conductive. When it finds its way between terminals it creates electrical resistance and resistance under load can create fires. Your concern is corrosion protection so use a product like corrosionx. Thank you for sharing.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you for your input.

[@christophermadden6375]

Thank you for posting this. I have been racking my brain why with my two batt set up both of my batt are draining when just running acc. And then ho to start and both Batts are low charge. Now I know thanks again.

[@AJOutdoors1]

I’m glad this helped you.

[@oz2147]

Great video, I’m curious, did you ever install the Start Isolation wire from your ignition to ACR? I know it’s optional just wondering.

[@AJOutdoors1]

No, never did.

[@oz2147]

@@AJOutdoors1 I’m struggling to figure out what the point of it is. From my understanding it momentarily cuts power to the house upon motor start up. Do you experience this?

[@AJOutdoors1]

@oz2147 no. I think some times it can affect electronics at startup, but I had no issues.

[@jvkew]

Great explanations. Thanks a lot.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you.

[@GameDayNation]

I have a smaller boat, will putting a battery on each side be beneficial to even out the weight or will it not be noticeable enough to make it worth the added battery cable lengths?

[@AJOutdoors1]

I guess it really depends on how small the boat is, what size/weight of the batteries. Best to have them together, but if it causes the boat to lean, then you might have to separate them.

[@brettu45]

I have another question: Do I have to run the engine wires to the negative bus bar and the switch, can they go direct to the battery?

[@AJOutdoors1]

Positive from motor goes to the switch. Negative goes can go to bus bar or the battery.

[@goutvols103]

Great video. Perhaps utilize some plastic caps from bottles to cover your battery terminals.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, that may work.

[@BillnUSA]

What does the black common wire hook to on the outboard motor? Pic of that would help me tremendously

[@AJOutdoors1]

The positive attaches to the back of the switch, the ground attaches to the negative buss bar. Unfortunately I cannot get a picture as I have sold this boat.

[@robertevans4193]

Thanks for the video … I’m looking to install one of these mini add a battery systems fro Blue Sea also. Question is though I have a 90hp Etec motor the alternator out put is 81 amps total with 25amps dedicated (I think that means 25 amps dedicated to charging the battery) is the mini system suitable for my boat? Thanks in advance 👍

[@AJOutdoors1]

Yeah if it's 25 Amp, the mini is good.

[@theoldshooter9011]

Just found this and have a question for you if you're still monitoring. I notice you did not use the ACR isolator fuse system that Blue Seas believes is critical in protecting the ACR. To be fair, most people dont, but what was your reason for not using them?

[@AJOutdoors1]

Not sure what you are referring to. If it’s the fused safety, that is at 3:07 in the video. The only thing I didn’t use was a start isolater which was optional according to Blue Seas.

[@theoldshooter9011]

@AJOutdoors1 I was referring to the BS isolator fuse which goes on the pos term and the ACR cable is connected to it. It has a square MRBF fuse.

[@AJOutdoors1]

@@theoldshooter9011 Still not sure what you are talking about, looking at the wiring diagram right now and every thing that attaches to the ACR is attached except the starting isolator which is fused and connects to the ignition, but this is optional and not critical per the instructions. Maybe your looking at a different one, this is the mini. Here is a link to the instructions and diagrams. d2pyqm2yd3fw2i.cloudfront.net/files/resources/instructions/980014350.pdf

[@slange455]

Nice upgrade I need to install a batter switch and kind of do what you did with another circuit for the electronics and accessories

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, it’s really not that bad.

[@NeverEnoughPyro40]

Unless you have alot of sensitive electronics, lights, an amplified stero system, and all kinds of pumps. This is really overkill! I am only saying that because most people do not have the knowledge the tools and all the little extras like all the connectors, shrink tubing, crimper for the heavy gauge power wires, and do not forget you should always use tinned copper wire! The cost for all the correct supplies will add up really quick! I have been boating for over 30 years! I have a 23Ft cuddy W/A 4.3L I/O I dock it in salt water in NJ all summer every summer for the last 25 years and I have never been stuck with dead batteries!

[@CaptainMcFartin]

I really like the clear shrink tubing idea, what better way to see if corrosion is forming as the crimp. I think the clear liquid is a bit overkill seeing as those are SS studs but to each their own. 👍👍

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you.

[@christopherlacava5079]

did you connect the two neg posts of the batteries

[@AJOutdoors1]

Yes the connect to the negative buss bar.

[@timothymyers6506]

Thanks for the video! What brand is that negative bus bar?

[@AJOutdoors1]

That is a good question, nowhere on it or on the order is there a brand name... Does say made in USA. Amazon currently showing it out of stock, but it comes and goes. Description: (Black) 3/8" 4 stud Power Distribution Block - BusBar - With Cover.

[@985live]

Thanks for the info and I’m like you I wanna do it right the first time. I’m rewiring my boat under my helm and it’s been a challenge but I’m making it through

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thanks, I hope this helps you get it rewired.

[@tylerthompson3317]

Just confirming, the negatives from both the batteries go to the negative bus bar at the bottom, correct? All my negative from say a fish finder, switches, etc go to the bus bar also? The only negative wires coming from each battery should be going to the bus bar?

[@AJOutdoors1]

Yup, you got it. EDIT, you may have things that connect directly to the battery, such as an auto bilge, you don't want that switched off. Any other negative wires should be hooked to the negative bus bar.

[@tylerthompson3317]

@@AJOutdoors1 got it. All my positives from my fish finder, radio, lights, etc. will go straight to the positive terminal on the house battery? I’m new to all the wiring and want to make sure I get a good understanding

[@AJOutdoors1]

No, you should have a fuse panel at the helm that those items tie into. If you wire directly to the battery, when not in use, they could drain power. So ideally and most typically, you have a power cable coming from the Blue seas switch, (House Power) which goes to the fusebox at the helm. Really the only thing that should be connected directly to the battery is the auto bilge.

[@rockinick]

The smaller wires that were hooked to the positive and ground on the battery initially. Are those now hooked into the bus bar and power switch instead?

[@AJOutdoors1]

I had one small wire attached to positive for the bilge pump. That reattached directly to the battery so it can still work with the switch off. If you attach any wires to the battery positive post, you are by passing the switch and they could drain the battery. If I had multiple positive wires I might add a positive buss bar to the system. All negative wire get attached to the negative bus bar.

[@rockinick]

@@AJOutdoors1 oh okay thanks it looks like I have the alternator, hydraulic pump, and engine all hooked directly to the battery so I’ll have to figure out how that will hook into my system

[@Jstars200]

May I ask you why you installed circuit breakers and not fuses? Cant see circuit breaker in recommended manual.

[@AJOutdoors1]

These are also fuses, and are common in high amp applications for boats. The benefit is if it trips, you can resent it. Here is a link so you can check them out. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVGZ8G1/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07CVGZ8G1&linkCode=as2&tag=janderjeski-20&linkId=332d4c395b7283f979b60137b4cc6659&th=1

[@L-I-V-I-N]

Great video! What positive wire did you connect to the 12 o’clock position on the switch? Looks to be routed to the boat.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you for the complement! Yes on my the 12 o'clock does to the house (boat), what is important is that the connections are numbered, so if you put the engine battery on #2, then you put the engine on #2. I hope I cleared that up.

[@1Cast1Fish]

Nice upgrade for sure man

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you.

[@brianschwartz5405]

What guage wire did you use for your batteries and to the fuse blocks

[@AJOutdoors1]

6 gauge.

[@Cpennington57]

Will this system work with 1: starting battery and 2: two 12V batteries in series that provide 24V to the trolling motor and 12V applied to the accessories?

[@AJOutdoors1]

Good question, but I don't think it will work. You are relying on the motor's generator (alternator) to charge all the batteries, and I don't think it would be able to. But, if I were you I would contact Blues Seas and see what they say.

[@Cpennington57]

@@AJOutdoors1 thanks for the reply. I did more research and it won’t work for my application, so I had to return the system. I instead went with the Yandina Troll-Bridge24 and Combiner100. Ordered that, over night air, and had to call the manufacturer. It turns out I ordered Yandina’s previous solution and now they have a one piece set up called a Troll-Bridge12x24. Ugh. I am over it so I’m rolling with the one I overnighted. Just keep this in mind for the future ;)

[@AJOutdoors1]

Good info.

[@ahmetyasar1514]

Hi AJ, excellent video. Could you please post pictures how the ACR and Switch box is wired in this video and what kind of wires you have used? Chers Ahmet

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you for the complement! To post a picture I'd have to take it apart. :) Instead, the link below is to the instructions with a wiring diagram, it should work better than a picture for you. I used 5 gauge wire but 6 would have been enough. Instructions - d2pyqm2yd3fw2i.cloudfront.net/files/resources/instructions/980014350.pdf

[@bobvecchi7981]

@@AJOutdoors1 #5 wire? In don’t think so, I’ve never seen or heard of 5awg wire.

[@AJOutdoors1]

You're right it was 4 and 6.

[@jonathansanchez7313]

Where did you put the smaller cables on your battery’s before you did the new setup interested in doing this as well and it seems like your the only person on KZbin that knows what theyre doing

[@AJOutdoors1]

First off thank you for the kind words, I really appreciate that. The small ground wires went to the negative bus bar, the one positive wire is for my auto bilge pump so I attached it back to the positive post on the house battery. Once in a while I stay somewhere that I can leave my boat in the water over night (boat slip) and I feel it's a good idea to have that bilge pump on just incase.

[@jonathansanchez7313]

@@AJOutdoors1 okay and where did the positive wire from the engine get wired to ??? Sorry for the dumb questions.

[@AJOutdoors1]

@@jonathansanchez7313 Not dumb at all, the positive wire coming from the engine connects to the main switch as does the power wire coming from the console (house).

[@jonathansanchez7313]

@@AJOutdoors1 okay I got it now I was having a hard time because the cable was black just now realized it has a red end indicating positive I got it now will be attempting this setup pretty soon

[@AJOutdoors1]

@@jonathansanchez7313 Good deal! Mine was the same.

[@Jstars200]

What fuses do you have? Where did you buy them and name?

[@AJOutdoors1]

Hey Jermey, look in the description below the video, there is a link to the fuses I used.

[@renegadelifestyle]

Do you have a close up view of your negative buss bar with the cover off, showing the wires coming in?

[@AJOutdoors1]

Sorry, just what you see in the video. But, it is pretty simple, you can attached the negative wires to any of the studs on the buss bar.

[@immaculate0072]

Is there a wireing diagram available? I would love to do this on my boat

[@AJOutdoors1]

There is a basic wiring diagram that comes with the blue seas kit. You can see it on their website too.

[@shanewilliams247]

Hello, Great video!. I am wanting to do the same on my boat. I have a Victron maitenance charger that normally connects to the battery terminals that i plug in when i get home and i know the boat won't get used. In this setup do you think i should connect the charger's positive to the 'Engine In' on the relay and the negative to a negative on one of the battery termnals? Thanks

[@AJOutdoors1]

I sometimes use a mobile battery tender on the house battery when the boat is not in use for a while. I attach it directly to the battery post.

[@BRG13DEAN]

How do you know what amps your motor draws? Besides testing with a multimeter, of course. I have a 2003 90 horse Johnson, I'm guessing it will be the 65 amp kit as well? Just bought the boat and will have to rewire everything as it's not to my liking and peace of mind.

[@AJOutdoors1]

I would think the 65 amp. I referred to my motors manual. Maybe research it online if you don't have the manual.

[@IgorLjevak]

i installed this yester day and i get electricity to both house and engine but i dont get any led signal on the acr, i have the small ground to a fuse box that is on the house side is that not correct? should i pull the ground with fuse to the start battery instead?

[@AJOutdoors1]

The ground with fuse should connect to the negative bus bar that both batteries ground to.

[@ducky_mcscrubby7775]

How do you determine what amp fuse is needed for both sides of the ACR?

[@AJOutdoors1]

Equal to or above what the motor puts out.

[@ducky_mcscrubby7775]

@@AJOutdoors1 Thanks 👍🏻

[@zacharywatson3242]

This is awesome! I was thinking of ways to manually select batteries and thinking of a creative way to share a charge... The magical black box is the answer. Super cool and doesn't require much thought. My only problem is my trolling motor is a 24v and everthing else is 12. Maybe this can still work for me? I am honestly not sure. Obviously it wouldn't be quite as plug and play but who knows.

[@AJOutdoors1]

My 24v trolling motor has it's own two dedicated batteries.

[@bobby57530]

Thank you for the step by step

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you for watching and I hope it helps you.

[@Scristal2007]

Great video! I will try to duplicate what you did! Just one question, where did you attach the ground engine cable? To the negative bus? Thank you.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Yes, it is connected to the negative bus.

[@Johncody5]

Great Video I just starting the exact same process and this was a great video with great information. Well done.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you, I hope it helps you.

[@alexro2265]

Nice brother thanks for the info.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you for watching and the kind comment.

[@walkerlawfirm-Alabama]

how did you determine your wiring gauge between these items, is there a "best" standard?

[@AJOutdoors1]

It’s based on the length of the run mostly. The blue seas system has a chart you can use.

[@kencordero169]

So you did your accessories on 1 and Engine on 2?

[@AJOutdoors1]

I did engine on 1 and house on 2, but you can do it either way.

[@kencordero169]

I had someone install on my boat and its boogered. Watched this video multiple times to correct my issue. No power to the key unless both are on. Need to track that wire and put on the other post?

[@AJOutdoors1]

@@kencordero169 If they installed the add a battery system like in this video, there is no "both" it only has off and on.

[@kencordero169]

@@AJOutdoors1 Yes Sir. It's Wrong. I have a inboard. Spoke to blue Sea and it's more or less running thru the harness and not isolating the batteries.

[@AJOutdoors1]

@@kencordero169 Did they give you an idea of what to do to fix it?

[@renegadelifestyle]

also, did yo use a red bus bar for all the red wires ?

[@AJOutdoors1]

No need, there is a positive from the motor to the switch, and a positive from the console to the switch.

[@renegadelifestyle]

@@AJOutdoors1 but what about the positive wires from things like nab lights, radio, bilge, live well pump? Where do the positive wires from them terminate? Do they go to the + battery terminal?

[@AJOutdoors1]

@@renegadelifestyle so The positive wire goes to the console, at the console ( on my boat) is the fuse panel the positive wire goes to the fuse panel, then each of those items attach at the fuse panel with a proper size fuse. As to the bilge pump, if it is auto, then it does attach directly to the battery.

[@fnickc]

Do both battery negative terminals connect to the negative bus at the bottom?

[@AJOutdoors1]

Yes they do.

[@Milo022]

Good video 1.why on/off switch if you can use the fuse breakers to open or close power from batteries? 2.if you have start battery selected what happens with the house battery at that moment? can you use the stuff connected to the house bank or you have to change to "hose battery" to use them?

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thanks, 1. The switch is on/off/ combine, so in an emergency situation it can combine the batteries. 2 you don't "select" start or "house", you turn it on and they are both connected. The system is so that the acr will ensure the batteries get charged.

[@Milo022]

@@AJOutdoors1 thanks for the info. I have a switch with 1-2-both-off battery, so Idk if when I select 1 (start bank) I can use all the electronics connected to 2 (house battery) so that is a bit confusing

[@AJOutdoors1]

@@Milo022 Yes that is a different system, for that system each battery can run everything. So if you are on battery one, and the battery dies, you switch to battery 2. But, if battery 2 is not charged, then you are dead in the water. That system does not charge both batteries like this system does.

[@obabob1]

Fuses (60 amp) are supposed to be located within 7” of the battery positive terminal to properly protect the cables. Bob

[@sinhly427]

Can you connect your trolly battery with the engine battery so it can charge both batteries while im fishing?

[@AJOutdoors1]

If you trolling motor is a 12 volt system, then yes you can use this system to allow the motor to charge both batteries. But you would need to have everything on the trolling motor battery (graphs, lights, etc.), the engine battery should only start the engine.

[@sinhly427]

@@AJOutdoors1 I wanna kno can I just run the cable wire only from the trolly battery to the engine battery so it charge the trolly battery ? Even both battery already have it own fuse ?

[@AJOutdoors1]

The power cable from your trolling motor would run to the switch, then a cable would run from switch to battery and a cable would run from battery, to the ACR through a fuse.

[@sinhly427]

@@AJOutdoors1 so why I can't just run the wire straight from the trolly battery to the engine battery?

[@AJOutdoors1]

It won't get charged and you risk running your engine battery dead and not being able to start your engine.

[@usafrancani]

Nice video. where did you buy the white board? thanks

[@AJOutdoors1]

Search for HDPE plastic sheets on amazon.

[@sammyestrada2765]

Have an update on how it’s working for you? Just purchased the bigger version of this and was wondering how to tell if it’s working. I guess I have to have to motor on to have heather voltage at 13+ for it to kick on.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Still working fine. I really didn't test anything, just saw that over time it was working fine. If you have a multimeter you can test it I guess.

[@willispautz]

So where do your accessory harness wires plug into this system? I just ordered the blue seas switch kit and need to get the 60amp fuses and wires, etc. how much was the wire roughly? And do you think two 60 amps is necessary instead of one?

[@AJOutdoors1]

So the accessory harness (call it house in the video) will attach to the switch. You will need two 60amp fuse because you need one between the ACR and each battery. This will make more sense one you get the kit and see their instructions. It has been a few years since I did this install, I don’t recall the cost of the wiring. Thank you for watching, and I hope it helps you.

[@jacobtaylor4258]

great video from the uk, are your running a leisure battery and a normal 12 volt car battery together, i am new to the boat world, and was told to buy a 110 amp battery, then find out i need a normal car battery for the engine, thank you.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Both batteries are marine (boat) batteries. The one for the engine is a cranking battery, the one for the house (rest of the boat) is a deep cycle.

[@jacobtaylor4258]

@@AJOutdoors1 i got ya, thank you.

[@RELEASEtheKRAKEN36]

Thanks for the video, I used it as a referance to add a battery to my boat with the same kit. As far as protecting the exposed battery terminals, I figured the liquid electrical tape might be a good start as a non conducting material if you arent planning on using battery boxes. Also keeping the battery compartment free of conducting materials that can bounce around and short out the terminals is a good idea. I recently saw a video where a gentlemen set his boat on fire because his spare jumper cables in his battery compartment bounced around and shorted the terminals in his trolling motor batteries, just food for thought.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Awesome, I'm glad you were able to use it. Good point on not keeping anything that could conduct a current in the battery compartment. The liquid tape my the the perfect solution for protecting the terminals.

[@joshuarobertdaniels]

What two batteries are you rolling with?

[@AJOutdoors1]

Both are Interstate batteries, engine batt is cranking, house batt is a deep cycle.

[@kenfourey-jones3121]

Great job mate. Seems that you use that storage hold for fenders and ropes, which inevitably get wet in use , so no wonder you had corrosion on the previous battery switch terminals. Despite all your attempts to isolate all exposed metal parts, if l were you l would not use that location for anything other than the batteries. Good luck! I have recently completely rewired my cabin cruiser and used adhesive heat shrink sleeving on all the terminals. Fortunately the batteries are located in dry storage areas so I don’t expect to see any corrosion on them.

[@AJOutdoors1]

Thank you! Yes I stopped storing anything in that hatch. I recently sold this boat and got a 28’ Grady White walk around. It’s an 03 and needs some work. Been tearing out old wiring to start.