Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Blocks

Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Blocks are high quality marine fuse blocks. The tin-plated copper buses and fuse clips give 30A per circuit and has an insulating cover that also provides space to store spare fuses. For more info visit www.westmarine.com

[@gyreeene]

Wtf....great responses west marine.

[@BobCollins42]

Can you recommend what ring terminal lug you use to connect to those #10 (M5) studs? The fuse block is rated for up to 100A, where your would use a 4AWG or 6AWG cables. Most every KZbin video I've seen uses a 1/4" (M6) ring terminal lug, which is sloppy loose. Why the odd #10 (M5) size?

[@zman92630]

Kind of a nitpicky question, but this Fuse Block would be perfect for my 4Runner electrical project. Many of the labels are for boating. Do these come pre-attached or can I select from other ones (or use my own?)

[@WestMarineInc]

We have the link to the labels separate on the link below. They may come preattached, but you can certainly put labels over them. You can of course make your own, but here is the link to our labels: www.westmarine.com/distribution-panel-labels

[@tombackes9557]

I purchased your ST Blade Split Bus Fuse Block 5032 for my 1984 Chevy S-10 to run auxiliary devices such as air control and gauges. My factory fuse panel is maxed out. Do you have a wiring diagram for running an ACC wire from my factory fuse panel to a continuous duty 150 Amp. solenoid relay to the bottom or switched side of the ST Blade Split Bus Fuse Block 5032?

[@WestMarineInc]

We are unable to provide assistance with this application, and we recommend contacting a qualified automotive electrician.

[@fastgolf8778]

where are you grabbing the power from to supply the terminal and what size wire or amps?

[@ronanrogers4127]

Either direct from the (auxiliary) battery, or as they said from the positive of a particular circuit of the boat’s circuit board. Wire gauge is easily determined by adding up the total watts, converting to amps, and measuring the length of the cable. Then consult one of the many AWG Current tables on the Internet to determine wire gauge. It’s not difficult.

[@Wombats-1]

I'm about to buy a few of these to install LED lights. nobody around me sells them though

[@WestMarineInc]

Hi Wombats - We may be able to special order them if you'd like! Please contact us at 1-800-262-8464 or email [e-mail]

[@moondog573]

with this bus, I run a negative directly to the battery and then I can attach the box to something that isn't a good ground, like a plywood box. Correct?

[@gyreeene]

moondog573 yes. That sounds correct. You will need to also run a hot wire from the battery in addition to the negative

[@larrywasserman4076]

I have a 18 foot fishing boat and the wiring is a mess! Do you recommend I use buss bars or your st blade fuse blocks?

[@gyreeene]

Larry Wasserman I would go with the St fuse box all day long . you can run additional feeds from your breaker protected switch panel on your console and it cleans everything up someplace that's watertight.

[@TKO-wu2uw]

Seems like a bad design from what the guy is saying. You want the Fuse to break the 12V POWER source to the electronics you are wiring, not the GROUND.

[@ronanrogers4127]

It does. I think you misunderstood.

[@spelunkerd]

In a boat, in contrast with a car, you need to string both the ground wire and the power wire back to the source. If you look closely you can see there is one source B+ post, one source ground post, and several ground posts to accept the ground for each individual circuit. Interestingly when doing calculations for voltage drop you need to basically double your distance since it is thin ground wire all the way back to source. So even in a small boat, you often have to upsize wire simply because of voltage drop.