THE Correct Way To Warm Up A Motorcycle? | How Should You Warm Up Your Motorcycle Before Riding?

[@BlueMarbleRider]

FAVOUR - do drop a like on the video and GET INVOLVED in the comments: let us know whether/how you warm your bike up, particularly from a cold start? What bike is it, how many kms...what oil etc. Cheers.

[@r.williamcomm7693]

What kind of steering damper is on your bike? I love it & want one!

[@b226tj]

I’m so glad that you mentioned the metallurgical issues. I have had a few arguments with people over this, and they can’t accept that oil issues just might not be the big issue. I have a 2001 Jeep 4.0l I-6, and a 2023 Triumph Speed Twin 900. On both, I wait for the revs to drop (and on the TJ, coolant temp at 110°F), and then gently set off, until I’m confident that the engine is completely warm. Often, after a few seconds(but not ready to ride) I will gently blip the throttle to get a little bit more heat into the engine.

[@Crosshatch1212]

What do you think of a bandit 600 that was ridden all year round for six tr ,no choke ever used .ever

[@chrissmith9151]

Warming up a motorcycle is like foreplay. You have to get things warmed up so they fit properly.

[@NoFrictionZone]

😂😂😂😂

[@AdamBrowne-eg1eb]

Straight in no kissing

[@stevedriver1376]

What's foreplay?

[@pb3662]

I tend to wheel my bike outside of the garage and start it and let it warm up while I put the rest of my gear on. When I hear the revs drop I know it's getting ready to ride. More importantly and especially when cold/wet you need to give it riding time to warm up the tyres and suspension. This can be 12-15 mins before everything flows smoothly and consistently.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Great point! Others have mentioned tires are vital and are resistant to change in temp, so take a while to warm especially on a cool day. Thanks for the comment. Cheers.

[@jeremiahnilsson7373]

Start my RT, doing some housekeeping; turn off light, mount panniers (1mjn), lock door, put on the nav, put on gloves. Which means the bike has 2-3min idling. Then driving, doing no “hard or forced stuff” before I am over 55 degrees. A boxer is always ridden in grunt, never on revs anyway. This have worked for me +30 years now. Live in Gothenburg, Sweden, temp from +25 to +2 in the mornings… Ride Nice!

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Sounds like your temps are similar to here right now - lots of torque on those big boxers. I guess liquid cooling is more efficient and perhaps quicker to warm than the R9T air cooled units?

[@lylemacdonald6672]

I've been running an 84 R100RT airhead for 37 years with basically the same start up protocol. Let it idle slowly reducing choke as it can handle it. Once off choke continue to idle it until it can rev without any hesitation then ride gently until normal operating temp is achieved (about 220°F as indicated on my dipstick thermometer). In any temperatures I think the engine is up to operating temp before the tires are.

[@notsorare]

As an apprentice years ago I learnt that 90% of bore wear occurs when cold

[@andrewparfrement8583]

As an engineer of 50 plus years I was educated the same way! Always allow time for the engine to warm up,as when cold this is when the wear takes place.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Nice to hear two engineers back that theory up (commenter below you is also an engineer and agrees). There are several long responses below that go into interesting detail about this too. Cheers.

[@NotAffiliated]

I have heard of "pre-circulation" of oil in dry sump race car engines as well as freshly built custom engines. If you could rig a way to heat and circulate oil thru the motorbike engine before you start it, could you therefore eliminate 90% of your engine wear? Could that be a way to get a half a million miles or more out of a motorbike engine?

[@andrewparfrement8583]

@ If you could warm the oil before hand,I am sure it would contribute to the longevity of the engine. Some times it’s just a case of common sense!, for example allowing the engine to warm for a few minutes changing the oil regularly and not constantly pushing the engine to its limits. There’s examples of BMW motorbike engines recording 200 plus miles and in some cases 300 plus. All car and bike manufacturers recommend you allow a few minutes before you drive your vehicle. I’ve been practicing this for years, my 12 year old two litre diesel with a 140 thousand miles on the clock still gives me 60 plus to gallon.

[@NotAffiliated]

@@andrewparfrement8583 You know, I hear that. Easier is definitely better. The harley sportster, I believe, is on a dry sump. It makes me just wonder if there would be any way I could rig that.

[@1331pugster]

I put both a hand on each cylinder(1971 Triumph) to make sure it’s warm and evenly warm then go down hill round the block instead of uphill

[@lylemacdonald6672]

I believe the consensus among engineers and mechanics is that if you are running the correct weight oil for the ambient temperature then once you have oil pressure the best warm up procedure is to drive/ride gently until you are up to normal engine operating temperature. My only caveat is with a carburetor equiped bike is idling it only long enough to come off choke and able to run without hesitation before pulling away for the gentle ride until operating temps are reached. Some engines come off choke quickly while others are quite cold blooded and take awhile.

[@Bow-to-the-absurd]

How long before optimum oil temperature? 15 minutes?

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Good piont, my only issue is if you can find consensus on this among engineers and mechanics you are a better man than me :-) I tried to find some definitive overarching statement by some body of knowledge and couldn't find a universal opinion.

[@squidlybytes]

​@@Bow-to-the-absurd this depends on far too many factors to answer with a single number. Water/air/oil cooling all affect it, the behavior of your thermostat if you have one, ambient temperature, combustion heat, block and coolant mass. I'm gifted with a temperature guage, so I simply. Use it. If you are not, you'll have to learn how yours feels.

[@ken2tou]

This is precisely what I do with my bikes, no matter what it is. I’ve owned many. I let mine run a minute or two. Check the oil pressure. As soon as it’s at peak, I ease on the throttle and gently ride out of our SD, for about two miles. After that, zoom, zoom. 😎

[@Crosshatch1212]

What .i have a bandit I bought sh I have to use choke every morning .The bandit I bought knew myself I never used the choke every morning from day one .All yr round rider .i do beilieve a bike fits to its owner from new .Sh you buy a bike that might have had three Dffrnt operators .clutch choke etc .

[@howder1951]

The lubrication system is designed to cover a wide range of temperatures with the optimum service at normal operating temperature.I do not believe in excessive idling, but rather an easy starting load to allow everything to get toward operating temperature. Key is having a regimen and sticking to it faithfully. Synthetic oils are an ideal choice as well. My Harley has 160,000 km's and the oil has been changed every 8000km.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Having a process for warming up a bike and being consistent is a common thread for lots of riders. 160000km is a testament that your warmup process is spot on. Thanks for the feedback.

[@lylemacdonald6672]

Now that you have talked about warming up the engine lets discuss the need to warm up the tires before going balls to the wall on a two wheeled machine. 😊

[@mbeecher9921]

I saw a kid wash out last week leaving his driveway. When my girlfriend and I took a ride later I reminder her that the tires are cold.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Good point - it's important to get those tires up to temp too - I can see the discussion now: Michelin or Metzler or... :-)

[@VishalinVandiar]

Why do i feel like the sole purpose of this video is for me to fall asleep listening to this guy's voice!?

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Cheers...I think :-)

[@andrewbecker3700]

Right. Very little actual usefull insight on any experiences in real life he may have had. Just sounds like someone reading an owners manual. Then throw in a bunch of digs that trivialize what some others may already know as gospel. The whole object it seems. Is to pretend that it's all a waste of time to worry or talk about. The kind of content that makes me immediately remember the last time I watched the channel. And why I haven't since.

[@bumse67]

I always leave the bike on idle while i put om my helmet and gloves, ride smootly för about 10 k till my fun roads start anyway. But when the engine is warm I dont hesitate to use it, where its possible I rev it out to about 1000 rpm before redline just to let the bike rev at sometime at least. This has worked for me, and it s fun too!

[@BlueMarbleRider]

You raise a good point about revving the engine once warm. It's easy to get into a routine of shifing at the same point in the rev range and riding the whole day like that, but winding the bike up a few times is, I always think, something we should do, although I have no evidenced for that, just my own thoughts. Cheers.

[@herbertpedron5817]

In the service log of my ducati it reads: Do not warm up in standby to avoid asymmetrical heating (and therefore tensions due asymmetrical expansion) of the motor bloc.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Interesting. My Kawasaki manual says not to ride until the initial rpm has come down to 1150-1250 rpm. This takes 2-3 minutes or so. Is your Ducati liquid cooled or air cooled?

[@herbertpedron5817]

@@BlueMarbleRider Im my case it's a new Monster 937 liquid cooled, (same as the Kawasaki I guess?). So what I do is to get in motion without waiting, staying at low revs in 2nd or 3rd gear until warmed up.

[@hodaka1000]

​@@BlueMarbleRider An old mate told me years ago the instructions that came with his BMW said not to sit around warming it up but to get it moving through the air or words to that affect, he explained it was an air cooled engine and so you get them moving through the air So I gave up on warming my air cooled bikes by sitting around warming them up and began riding them straight up after a cold start I've done this for years now on the two stroke 125cc Hodaka in my profile photo and on my SR500 Yamaha I pulled the Yamaha apart after 80,000 kilometres and was pleasantly surprised at how little wear it had You don't just get on them and flog them but wait until they're warm while riding

[@Bow-to-the-absurd]

First bike was an APRILIA RS125 2 stroke Had no choice but to warm it up.

[@wimtimmerman6730]

I ride a 1983 Yamaha XV 500, an aircooled, carburetted v-twin with 49 horses, in the mountainous inner regions of Portugal. In spring and summer, she usually starts easily without any choke. In winter, I most definitely need the choke. On colder days, I put her on full choke, and she will start easily, and rev a bit above 2000 rpm, which I immediately take down to about 1200-1500. I start riding after about half a minute, while keeping the revs relatively low (beneath 3000), with very little throttle for about the first ten minutes. I can always take her off the choke very quickly, whatever the temperature outside, as soon as she is rolling, which I do. After about ten minutes I rev her a bit more, and I can tell she feels really happy. I only rev her high (redline is 8500) when I'm sure that the oil is nice and warm. She's never let me down, and I expect her to stay with me for a long time. She's a wonderful little motorcycle, nimble and agile, and lots of fun to ride. I will never get rid of her, as we pledged to each other for life!

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Great comment, thanks. And I'm envious - would love to ride there. Cheers.

[@M5F1R3]

In my professional opinion it's about oil pressure. Oil is thick when cold, and the lubrication circuit has a pressure relief valve more times than not. When the oil is cold, and the engine is revved, oil pressure increases to beyond the pressure relief threshold and the oil is redirected to the oil pan or tank. If the oil is cold enough, and the engine is revved, the pressure relief valve opens and insufficient oil makes it to the top end. Warming the engine till the oil is up to a temperature that prevents the pressure relief valve from opening, saves excess wear on the top end, mainly the camshaft journals and lobes on overhead cam engines, which is where I mainly see engine failure. Don't get me wrong, it is pretty boring and sometimes annoying to stand there and wait. Really it is to each their own, and how long they want their engine and components to last. I for one prefer my engines to last as long as possible without any type of failure big or small, so I warm my bike till the oil reaches a minimum of 45 C, preferably 55 C before taking off. I will never force anyone to do it different, but a slight smirk may cross my face when I'm rebuilding their engine. There's also many more things to consider about how long an engine lasts, warming up is a very small percent of the total things people should be aware of, but it is still an important one. Also a side note, it depends on the weight of oil the engine uses, my particular bike runs 10w50, so it definitely should be warmed up. There's a number of other issues not warming up can cause, but I will stop now before I write a twelve book series as I've already done the first two. XD

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Great response - thanks for the taking the time. That's something I didn't know - and makes complete sense. I have two bikes which run heavy oil: 10-50 and another 10-60, and they are the ones that don't like being worked until thoroughly warm - they let you know. I'm looking forward to the next chapter :-) Thanks for the comment. Cheers.

[@RyanMinney]

I would have to agree i drive large commercial trucks(big diesel engines). I’m no Mechanic. that being said with all the gauges you can see the water temps top out, rpm’s drop, and the fans kick on before the oil pressure finishes dropping. If you push them too hard it finds away out typically blowing a pan seal. Oil pressure even though not a temp gauge shows any operator when an engine is ready.

[@M5F1R3]

@@RyanMinney I agree, my bike will be at full coolant temp long before the oil temp is high enough. Oil temp/pressure is a very important thing with diesel engines, as you stated, they can blow seals if not warmed up.

[@Gobbles2021]

I have a 131 crate engine. The master tech at my local HD told me with these big engines you have to warm them up. You do more damage by starting it and taking off then giving it a few minutes to warm up.

[@digger8180]

It is also very important to relax/ cool your motorcycle down before putting it back in the garage. As you warm up you should gradually cool down ; the last couple of miles or so slow down before you get home. It is good for your bike's oil and more importantly it's internal parts. Eric Buell put an extended fan cycle on his 1125R bikes when you stop them to help this.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

I know for turbos on cars they do this, and my husaberg fan will continue if its hot after cool down. I'm not sure of the reasoning, perhaps to allow for the fact that the temp could spike and damage the oil after shutdown as there is no cooling once turned off? Interesting point. Cheers.

[@digger8180]

@@BlueMarbleRider Exactly the point, as well as reducing radiant heat from the internals it also helps the oil to cool a little faster, less wear and tear on both machine and it's life blood. Caterpillar do the same cool-down shut-down program on their diesel engines.

[@hyedefinition1080]

​@@BlueMarbleRidermakes sense to cool down a turbo engine to vaporize the unburnt fuel from caking up the valves with carbon build up. Don't really see a benefit of cooing down port injection vehicles or bikes, unburnt fuel is the gasoline, which is inherently a detergent and less of a cause for valve buildup. All other components are controlled the same otherwise, coolant and ambient temps. Let me know otherwise.

[@CGB65]

I've only owned four motorcycles. 1983 Suzuki katana 650. Carbureted with manual choke. 2003 Suzuki 800cc Volusia carbureted with manual choke. 2006 Harley-Davidson Road glide stage 395 cubic inch screaming eagle kit fuel injected. My final bike is a 2017 Suzuki v-strom 650 fuel injected. With all of the motorcycles that I've owned, I start the motorcycle. Let it idle while I put my helmet and my riding gear on. That usually takes about 2 to 3 minutes and then I start off gently. Never ride hard until I feel as though it is running smooth and warmed up.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

That's plenty of motorcycles to know what you're doing. Cheers.

[@ronmoropito2200]

Once I moved into Fuel Injected bikes, the start-up procedure changed somewhat. BUT, I always waited while I put my Riding gear on and had a quick look-over of the machines, testing the brake lights, etc. Much better than carbs.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

I'm a big fan of fuel injection - it certainly has made things a lot easier.

[@jefftuckercfii]

You might want to check your description of the enrichener. What you described was actually a choke, saying that the butterfly restricts the flow of air, with less air making the air/fuel mix richer. That is what a choke does. When you pull the knob, an enrichener simply adds fuel to the air/fuel mix until you push the knob back in, cutting off the enrichener and restoring the normal air/fuel ratio the carburetor provides. Remember, not all carburetors have butterflies. Some have slides, some have butterflies, some have both. Sometimes the slide is directly connected to the throttle cables, but in CV carbs the slide is moved by the effect of vacuum on a diaphragm.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

You are right. It's a difficult subject - so many different carbs. In essence though, my point was (and I used enrichener and choke interchangably in the video as they do the same thing - both biasing the mixture to the petrol side of the equation) the excess fuel is the biproduct of both systems and results in bore washing. Thanks for the feedback. Cheers.

[@Junowalker1]

I also have a 2016 Griso 1200 8V SE that I ride every day-except when it’s snowing or raining hard, or the air temperature drops below 20°F here in New Jersey. (I use that temp as my cutoff because I have ridden it below that before, and I found that it overwhelms my heated gloves even on their highest setting, making my fingers excruciatingly painful after about 15 minutes of riding.) I rode it yesterday when the air temp was 22°F outside, and my routine at that temp is to let the engine idle until it comes down to about 1,150 rpm (from about 1,500 rpm at start), which takes about 3 to 4 minutes. But my question for you is: what do you listen for when you say you listen to the engine at idle before you ride?

[@stephenbaron5681]

Hi, I have a Guzzi Norge 8V and live in Northern NJ , we should ride together?

[@beepbop6697]

Same. Once it comes down from fast idle, I'm good to go. Maybe 1-2 minutes at most. Dunno about your 22 degree day ride, my bikes aren't getting started on those days 🤣

[@BlueMarbleRider]

I find when cold, the valve, cam sound is noticeable (my valves are in spec), but that as it warms, the sound goes to gummy cammy sound - deader and lower pitch.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Agree, that's cold. I have grips and heated vest, but I'm not sure I'd be that comfortable at anything over 40mph. Cheers.

[@Junowalker1]

@@BlueMarbleRider Gotcha. I did my first valve adjustment (ever) on my Griso a couple of months before it started getting cold here-using my manual recommendation of 0.15mm intake and 0.20mm outlet-though, since this was my first time adjusting valves, I can’t decide if what I think I hear as the engine warms up is due to the engine being cold, or that I don’t have the feel for the valve clearance yet, and I’m hearing loose valves!

[@anthonyintrieri3329]

Great video. It's funny how a lot of people don't realize the transmission needs to warm up also. I have people laughing at me because I won't drive my car until the temp gauge reads 100 degrees fahrenheit. 200,000 trouble free miles, let them laugh 😅. My bikes, warm to the touch and the sound has to be right 👍

[@johnkessler9878]

Exactly. What wears an engine isn’t the warm up, it’s putting a load on it when cold. Always let ANY engine warm up before driving off, just like you are doing. I also get high milage on my vehicles following this practice.

[@firbolg]

I have a Ducati Scrambler 800 and will follow your guide for your Griso (one of my favourite bikes ever, by the way). Great upload! Subscribed!

[@bdagnolo]

What a great video. Having had many different bikes over the years, I too have used slightly different methods. My current Kawasaki Vulcan 900 Classic does seem to have its particular way to warm up and I listen to how the mechanicals all sound then ride gently for a bit until I can hear and feel that everything is happy.

[@DavidHernandez-oz4me]

Mine is carburated, so I use the chocker in winter. 5-7 mins 10.c. But yeah it feels more stable when properly warmed up

[@patrickokeeffe4787]

Suzuki Bandit 1200 here. Bike parked in a non heatered shed and parked outdoors at work most days in all weathers. Just need to use choke for less than 1 minute and its good to go. Next 4-5 minutes is always gently ridden at 30mph with stops at traffic lights until I reach the open road. No issues and for those who are going to say I'll reduce the longevity of the bike....I have the bike from new 22 years now and im only 2,000 miles shy of 100,000 miles on the clock. Bike might need (at the very most), one little top-up of oil during oil changes. If anything its the cosmetics I need to worry about and my own longevity! 😂

[@jodlen49]

Basically, the same as you - My V-twin Suzuki Intruder, a little different than my old Harley require me to be tuned into the sound and the temp. I personally enjoy the warm-up process. I put on my gear while waiting for the moment, I swing my leg over and give a couple twists of the throttle, before idling the 4 blocks to the highway, and even then I don't give more than half throttle till everything feels and sounds good. I have seen and heard people rev the piss out of a cold bike and cringe. Safe riding ye all :)

[@GregMacDougall-m3n]

Another great episode, thank you. Your channel is one of my favorites, I tell people about your channel.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

I really appreciate that, Greg. Cheers.

[@philliphinkle2812]

I usually roll my bike down my steepish driveway and start it up. I go back into the garage and put my gear on, shut the garage and take off. I live in a subdivision so I can hit too hard for a mile or so. By the time I get to the highway I feel it’s warm enough to get after it.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

I’ve heard of riders doing that before. I try to be gentler for the first couple of miles, but I can see how your system would work for you.

[@noonsight2010]

My Royal Enfield has a factory specified start-up and warm -up procedure. I follow that.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Care to share? My Z900RS has one too, which talks about allowing the rpm to drop to normal operating tick over before riding.

[@noonsight2010]

@BlueMarbleRider Turn on ignition. It takes a few seconds for the fuel pump to prime and engine diagnostic to run. Engine warning light goes out. Start and allow to idle for thirty seconds to allow oil to reach the top end.

[@drakeb6168]

My bike has a rack of 4 carbs. I will start with full choke. However the spring is worn just enough that as it warms, the vibrations of the engine rattle the choke lever back in to open the mechanism. She does take 10-20 minutes to be ready to go tho. Especially when it’s below freezing. 1982 Honda CB900F Supersport for those curious

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Great bike!

[@stephenbaron5681]

I have a heated garage so don’t experience a cold start but I never push my Norge until it is fully warm. I don’t have a cat and run a reflashed cpu and power commander with wide band O2sensors. Engine runs much cooler.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

It sounds like your setup works for your Norge. Given the Norge's heritage is being designed for cold climates...it sounds like yours very cosseted - and so it should be. Wide band O2 sensors are new to me - is that a common mod for the Norge?

[@Skiamakhos]

I always used to let it sit running for a couple of minutes until it needed the choke taking off, to save me faffing with it on the ride. 1st bike was a 2-stroke with the choke lever in an awkward place. Current one doesn't have a manual choke but an ECM & fuel injection so I guess it probably doesn't need it.

[@ConcoursOne]

Start water cooled bike while donning gear. Idle time 3-4 min that allows engine to warm up until thermostat is opened. Then drively with light throttle /low load for another min of 5 min.

[@DeputatKaktus]

I let my little runabout (a Kawasaki Z125) idle maybe for a minute or two. That’s enough to grab my tank bag and put on gloves. If I just try to start and go, you can feel she doesn’t like it. And I am certainly not going to force her. She idles at around 3000 rpm when you start her. But as soon as you put her in gear and start letting the clutch out, she stalls immediately. She needs her minute or two, especially when it is cold. And I am riding even in sub zero temps (not in snow or ice though because I am not trying to off myself), so warmup is even more crucial. After her warmup minute, stalling is not an issue anymore and I can go gently. And by the time I get to the first traffic light 600m from my door, the rpms have settled down to about 1500-2000. I have her from new, got her in August 2023. Since then I put just shy of 15000 km on her. She runs Motul 10W40.

[@timhicks2154]

I would always keep the warm-up revs above idle. Oil pressure could be rather low at idle

[@ktkace]

for all of my carburated bikes , 1 minute miniumum in winter , ride gently for 5 mins and then see if it revs smoothly to 90% of max rpm

[@danielkeel9265]

In my carburetted machine I like to turnit on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out. Then she's ready for fuel. Otherwise I run it until it idles without choke.

[@davidboydarnott417]

Most Bikers love their bike and want to extend it's life and good looks as long as possible and don't mind a slow ride through the Residential Area while the bike warms up. "Use Not Abuse" is most people's rule of thumb and I think the Abusers have just got more money than sense and only bought their bike to be a Flash Harry/Harriett. I don't want to crash my bike so I don't ride fast on cold tyres and the engine will warm up before the tyres. 6:38 Your first bike is different, my 125 needed a new Piston and Ring every 3 months. It was a Stan Stephen's tuned Stage 1 Dynojet Honda NSF capable of 90mph. 7:26 The Rider in the vid didn't do much weaving to try get heat in his tyres. 15:01 In general, I start my bikes and leave them ticking over on the sidestand until I get my gear on. Then I will sit on my bike with it level, until it reaches 50°C and I'll give it a couple of Throttle Blips. If it sounds fine , I will drive through the Residential Area at 20mph , by the time I exit the temp will be up near 65-70°C and ok to ride within Speed Limits. I have Aluminium Pistons. Optimal operating temp is 83°C. But this all happens before tyres are warm, so I have to ride sedately for at least 10miles.

[@mr.shannon6137]

In regards to thermal expansion. All the components heat up and expand at different rates. Thats why a lot of earlier air cooled engines would suffer from ovaling of the cylinders. The front facing side of the cylinder would tend to be cooler than the rear facing side. When you let a motorcycle engine warm up it allows all the components to reach the same temperature and minimizes differences in thermal expansion

[@karlbishop7481]

I have air cooled and water cooled Guzzis. I let them idle a few minutes while I put on my gear. I generally let the water cooled V100 idle a bit longer because it takes a little longer to warm up. It also holds a lot more oil than the V7. I do ride gently after I shove off. They both get a little more idle time as I have to open and close the gate.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Interesting - how much oil does the V100 hold? V7? I erroneously always assumed that air cooled bikes had larger capacities (like the Griso 3.5L vs Vstrom 3.1L). Cheers.

[@karlbishop7481]

@BlueMarbleRider 4.9 liters

[@karlbishop7481]

Didn't add that at $17 a quart an oil change isn't cheap.

[@dr.hugog.hackenbush9443]

With my 500s, I let them idle untill the cylinder is hot to the touch. With the air-cooled YZ490, its untill the fins are plenty warm.

[@whocanmakeyourwholeweek7272]

My current bike has auto choke. Starting when cold, i let the revs settle down to normal idling pattern, then first km of riding take it easy. When bike is hot, hit the starter, wait 10-15 seconds, then ride as normal.

[@kevindowell6003]

The owners manual states avoid excessively idling, start and ride off immediately, above 50°F (10°C) I am in the saddle I start the bike drop my visor and pull away. Under that temp, I start the bike, put on my gloves and helmet, as long as the bike has dropped off of the initial fast idle and smoothed out, light throttle riding until it is warmed up. The initial fast idle drop usually occurs in under a minute even when 15° F (-10°C). I have notice my Moto Guzzi is a little reluctant to shift into second when cold. It is first gear at neighborhood speeds. By the time I get out of the neighborhood it will shift into second. Don’t have that issue with either BMW

[@dieterk9568]

as well important is the riders warm up any time of the year😊 I always take it easy on the first 50 km before having a blast

[@billreynolds2221]

My 05 Kawasaki zrx1200r is remarkably easy to start and ride off on. It does require full choke to come to life. Full choke will over rev the engine if not immediately moved to almost off but enough to keep the engine running at 1,500 rpm. It's never been finicky about ambient temperatures. After about 30 seconds I shut off the choke completely and keep the revs between 1,200 and 1,500 rpms using the throttle only. 20-30 seconds later you can ride off and she doesn't hesitate or stumble. I don't push the bike hard at any time but wouldn't rev it above 4,000 rpms until I had ridden it for several miles. 99% of my riding, on this bike, occurs between 1,500 and 4,000 rpms. The 1,200 CD engine works much like a large v-twin. There's so much torque down low that riding above 4,000 rpms is unnecessary. For a carburetor bike it fuels about as well as anything I've ever ridden. It does require non-ethanol fuel to perform this well.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Great description...and lovely bike. Always been attracted to those, and had the Z900RS not come out, then that was my go to. Cheers.

[@allanfoster5418]

i have Truimph 1050R 2018. start engine from cold 🥶 in to gear no hard acceleration until fully warmed up engine still perfect with 5,000 on the clock. 🇬🇧

[@richard2951960]

start the bike idle for 2/3 maybe 4 minutes than ride the bike and don't go above 3500/ 4000 rpm the first 10/15 minutes than you can slowly go up in revs .

[@naps3386]

Air cooled vs Water cooled and the outside air temperature is more important than a hard rule for warm up. Let air/oil cooled warm up longer than water cooled, and with both, baby them until normal operating temp has been reached (about 10 minutes). (Aircraft Tech & pilot here, plenty of air/oil cooled experience).

[@Pork-Chopper]

It's always best to bring it up to: "Operating Temperature"! Look at it this way. If you want her to "put out", ya gotta warm her up! All internal combustion engines have "Operating Temperatures"...

[@MisterOcclusion]

My r1200gs says to start it and ride - don't let it sit for minutes on end. On a cold day I'll give it a few minutes. In t-shirt weather i start and go My friends, who have always had cold blooded, air cooled harleys, let them idle for at least 5 minutes

[@oldbag3043]

I ride a bandit 1200 so i use the choke and let it run for 5 mins, so it runs smoothly on tick over

[@akasickform]

When you have a machine that has the potential to hit 10K+ RPM it needs two things: - Lubrication & - Clearance Not allowing for thremal expansion shortens the engine life and performance

[@ohwell2790]

I am a aircraft mechanic. Air cooled and water cooled aircraft piston engines are warmed up to get the oil up to operating temperature. There should be oil temp gages of motorcycles too. .

[@donhammer186]

I let the bike teach me how it wants to be warmed up. I listen, I feel, I cycle the clutch. I finish my smoke, a last sip of coffee and ride away. Why the clutch? As the clutch warms it expands and the cable gains free play. Without that free play the clutch is not completely engaging, causing undue and premature wear. For me, it's just another good indicator. My 1982 Honda VT 500 Ascot is a very cold blooded bike due to the water cooling so, (the temp gauge is currently nonfunctional) I reach under the right side of the fuel tank and touch the radiator return line. When it feels warm, it's good to go. Every bike is different, do what your bike want's and it will be fine. Don't and you will end up afoot.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

I like the clutch idea - I also listen to the first gear I select - too noisy and lumpy, straining to go despite the clutch being pulled in, then I get back to neutral and let it warm a little more. Cheers.

[@HenrikGahmberg]

My BMW K1600 GT '22 is very jerky if I start riding before the initial revs goes down. It usually takes just 30 or 40 seconds depending on the temperature, so it is not really a problem. I just let it idle when I'm putting on helmet and glovs.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

A couple of my bikes are the same, and I don't ride them until they are ready - getting gear on is a great way to allow that to happen. Cheers.

[@MarlinRando]

1. roll bike out 2. start on choke 2 3. begin putting on gear 4. switch to choke 1 as idle settles 5. finish with gear 6. choke off and if it idles well, it's go time. 7. go easy on the way out of town

[@BlueMarbleRider]

What are you riding? Cheers.

[@teedee4553]

I ride a 2018 DL1000 that I only ride (in season 10C+) from April through Sept. and on a cold startup I wait for the first bar on the digital water temp to appear. This is usually 1-2 minutes depending on ambient temperature. I like to have the visual cue for consistency. I then ride below 40km/hr until it has fully warmed up. I run Lucas 10W40 full synthetic oil.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Do you find it is a little reluctant at one bar? Mine is never really happy until 2, but I have will ride on 1 if running behind the clock, but likey you, I'm gentle 'till warm. Cheers.

[@monokheros5373]

every bike is different... some are Female some are Male ... finding out their personality and how they like to be treated ... they can be your best friend or try and kill you every chance they get ... looks like your approach works very well and many will want to emulate it cheers mate

[@choppergirl]

Probably the best way is to never let your motorcycle get cold in the first place, and keep it in a semi heated garage. I don't have that luxury, so I have to heat up my bike, because I drive it year round.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

You know I didn't mention that, but it's a great point, and one that I take for granted as mine are garage kept bikes. Cheers.

[@timhicks2154]

I run the engine at 2,000 rpm for around a minute. Then I take it very steady (below 3,000rpm for about a mile.

[@conservativesniperhunter7439]

I used to warm up my big Kawasaki GTR 1400 engine for about 4 or so minutes before riding it gently for about 10 to 15 minutes before opening it up.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Nice bike!

[@mrsilbo6499]

Grisos definitely like a several minutes warm up - mine's very woolly & fluffy when you blip the throttle initially. I wait for the 'candyfloss' exhaust vapour to diminish before riding, by which time the throttle response is crisp.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Like that "candyfloss" exhaust vapour - I know exactly what you mean. Cheers.

[@xXxDeamonlordxXx]

My philosophy is to have an engine big enough to give the needed power without breaking into sweat, still driving very gently at the start. So yes, in my car, i start, belt up and drive. But slowly, no throttle more then 10%, no more then 1500RPM for two minutes. Then 20% and 2000RPM. Slowly increasing. And first real poweruse after at least 20km. On my Bike however... Starting, Putting on helmet and gloves, close the garage and start, again, very gentle riding. My 1000cc CBF doesn´t require more then 2000rpm to flow with the traffic. Three to four minutes worth of way i have city anyway. After that i slowly increase to 3000rpm and a little more throttle. To get in interesting motocycle terrain it takes me 30km in any direction, so when i finally get there the game is on^^

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Sounds like you've got it figured out. Cheers.

[@calvinlondt3037]

From what I've learned, air-cooled motors need the warm-up time most. The air cooling is too efficient while moving to get up to temperature since there is direct heat transfer between the motor and the air, so you must wait till the temperature rises then it will be maintained once you start riding, also since air cooling is inherently uneven, if you start riding too soon the temperature disparity between one side and the other can cause thermal warping, the parts closest to the air flow will be kept below operating temperature while the opposite side will heat up more quickly. Water cooled bikes have the intermediate latent heat from the liquid coolant that heats up and shares heat throughout the motor allowing it to more uniformly warm up the motor, and it also holds onto heat far more than an air cooled motor, furthermore, the radiator fans don't turn on till the motor is much hotter so that reserves the optimal cooling capabilities for only higher temperature applications like when you're caught in stop-start traffic with minimal airflow. My previous 3 bikes were alternating liquid and air cooled and I got a good comparison across them: > VFR800 (liquid cooled), i'd start up, put my gloves on then immediately go (60-90s), keeping revs down (3000-5000/ 11000 rpm) for the first few streets then opening it up once I was on the local main roads going to work. (10W40 Oil) > Griso 1200SE (air/oil cooled), needed more time so I wheeled it out my garage, started up, then would go put on my buff, helmet, sunglasses, pick the next song on my iPod then put my gloves on and go (3-5 min) , still keeping to the rule of maintaining low revs (2500-3500/ 8000 rpm) for the first few streets, and still accelerating mildly for a few more minutes. (10W40 Oil) > VFR1200 (liquid cooled), although it doesn't need as much time to warm up I've kept to a similar routine as the Griso, because it's got a higher capacity but more compact motor than the 800, but because it warms up for almost as long as the Griso (2.5-4 mins), but doesn't need it as much, i'm not as strict with keeping revs down, but I still only exceed 5000/10000rpm once I get on the highway to work. (10W30 Oil)

[@FastSundayflyer]

Hi, I ride a 2011 Vstrom 650. I found that the bike doesn't really like to go into gear untill the temperature has 1 bar showing. This takes about 2-3 minutes. I just let it idle untill then. Then I ride slowly for about 5 blocks which takes me to the main roads. By now the gauge shows 3 bars and I'm good to go. Cheers! 🙂

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Sounds like you have found a good process that works well for you and the vstrom. Cheers.

[@Montragon29]

I have a Varadero XLV1000 mk2, it has a manual choke, and i always warm her up. Usually turn the choke to 2K rpm for the first 3mins then droppong to 1.4K rpm for another 3-4 mins. Enough time to put the cover away, and prepare myself. But in general i let the big v-twin warm up to 3/6 temp in the temp gauge before heading out and then i'm gentle for the first ten minutes, as coolant temp and oil temp vary usually. But yeah, never ride on a cold motorcycle and stress it immediately, thats a one way ticket to a lot of mechanical problems down the road...Even the manufacturer says to warm up the engine before riding, who are we to know better?

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Nicely put. A lot of riders have also reminded me that its good idea to go gently until the tires are warm too, so win win. Cheers.

[@LordMcKrakenVonLittleBits]

Flashed my Z as well because of that wild cold start. I usually take off after two bars show up on the dash meter. My Honda Fury on the other hand has no gauges, except a speedo, so temp is up for interpretation. I usually give that bike 5 minutes and it's good to go.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Love the handle!

[@LordMcKrakenVonLittleBits]

@BlueMarbleRider Thanks mate! 🏍️☁️

[@iFunktion]

What a lovely vid, love the "Swiss Tony" delivery "Warming a bike is like making love to a beautiful woman..." I have a 1978 GS750 it can't be ridden till it's warm

[@feloniousmonk3049]

Is this Penske Road, Butte county, CA that this was video'd? Definitely Nor Cal and West side of any mountains. I run a 2023 BMW 1250 GS, Euro 5 spec exhaust requirements, and basically just run the engine very gently, riding off in 10 seconds, nothing above 2500 rpm. I short shift and keep the load minimal, almost at idle, and ride on level ground. Bike warms up pretty quickly, the tachometer has redlines based on engine coolant temperature. Cold, it's at 5000 rpm. Warmed up, it's at 9000, usually within 3 to 4 minutes. The EFI system handles the fuel mixture ratio. Water cooled. I like to see at least 120F for my oil temperature before I Honk on Bobo. 120 F was the oil temperature that Rotax Engineering required on their 1265cc 100 HP aviation engines, before doing run up under load at 4000 rpm to check the dual ignition systems for function. From there, a pilot ususally then had another minute or two before being cleared by the tower for full throttle application and take off at 5300 rpm under full load. I'd say oil temps by take off were at 140 to 150F. I never run my BMW's hard when the oil is cold. Oil too, needs to be at a proper operating temperature before running a motor hard.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Not Nor Cal, but we're more like it every year: doug fir, redwoods, white/oregon/gary oaks, prickly pear cactus...Vancouver Island. Cheers.

[@topright760]

Based on my own experiences I always heated-up my motorbike in idle for about 3-5 minutes by fully activate the choke first then decrease it as time goes by until the bike has reach its stable idle engine. I do not play throttle snatching at all. My conclusion is: if a bike has not yet reach its ideal work temperature then it won't performs as good as it should. One day I don't have enough time to warm up because I'm in a hurry and my bike feels so so uncomfortable, acceleration is being heavier, the engine felt rough not smooth and everything doesn't seem right at its place.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

That all sounds very familiar to me, particularly the trying to coax the bike when cold...like trying to get the dog outside to pee on a frosty day...reluctant! Cheers.

[@topright760]

@BlueMarbleRider Haha😄 ow and I forgot this one when the engine's ideal working temperature had not reached yet and the bike must go: even the feel and sound of the engine is not smooth. At first I thought it's just my imagination but finally realize that it's always happened.

[@philippluklas]

Seems like you reduced the idle rpms though on your Z900RS, right? Would love to hear at you did it and whether you recommend

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Yes, I got an "Ivan" reflash. He's well known in the States. Contact him via the web -page form. He'll send you instructions. Basically, remove ECU (easy - under seat), send, he reflashes (many options for what you might like re lower cold idle, change power/smooth running etc), and he sends it back. Can't remember how much it was, but it was well worth it. Transformational through the whole rev range. Do recommend you balance throttle bodies, new plugs, clean air filter and have valves checked first - and if that clears up any high idle or lumpy running, then maybe no need to reflash. Cheers.

[@GreggsonWong]

Hmm, I live in Hawaii. The weather here is 75-80F or 24-27C. I almost never feel the need to warm up my engine. My bike always seems to run the same, as when 1st start my engine. My engine always seems to run hot because of the heat.

[@devilsoffspring5519]

If the engine is cold, what you DON'T do is what motorcyclists feel overwhelmingly compelled to do for some reason: Sitting in the driveway and gunning the hell out of it. That comes from the days of carburetors when blipping the throttle a bit kept the engine from dying. Modern engines are fuel injected and the idle speed is probably regulated, under computer control. Start it and just let it idle on its own terms, no constant gunning needed.

[@jefflambert8603]

When Bikes Had Manual Chokes it was a Faff in Cold weather the Kawasakis I had would go to 4,000 revs And I had to juggle with the Choke Lever. The Fuel Injection Bike I have now Revs a bit Higher from a Cold start Settling down after Two - Three Minutes then I ride of Steady for a mile or Two until Engine gets up to Temperature

[@scottmacleod6301]

Depending on ambient temp I let my DR650 warm up around 1-2 minutes and even in 90f weather she still runs rough in minnesota.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

I had one and never had a problem. I wonder if it is a carb issue?

[@AdamBrowne-eg1eb]

My bikes always idle for 10 minutes as I get gear on, once on the bike I never give it some until up to temperature. Then gently lean into the tyres as they warm up. On a K5 1000 tyres have to be up to temp!

[@MrDertien]

I get my K25 (BMW Adventure GS 1200 - 2006) out of the stable manually by means of a push back, make sure the handlebar heating switch is off during winter, and also verify the off status of the extra fog lights. Then, I turn the ignition on and let it idle between 5 and 10 minutes, regardless of winter or summer. 5 minutes + is enough time to put on the middle pannier, fill it with the essentials, slide the GPS and the Phone in their respective cradles, put on boots, jacket, gloves, helmet and tune in the music to Jazz. The Jazz helps to keep calm in order to navigate our battered Belgian roads and slide swiftly past countless rows of oversized and overweight SUV's waiting at the traffic lights, all of them cocooning its only occupant in their driver seats; damsels that are oblivious to the world that is alive beyond the metal armor and glass of their armored carriage. Oblivious to everything, except their first or last minute mascara-jobs; a daily routine of self-reflection performed in readjusted rear-view mirrors and missing by more than a mere seconds the switch from red to green. By that time, the boxer's monotonous purr advises me it is ready for the leg swing and the traffic weave. The warming up OCD is a tradition instilled into me by my grandfather, who always warmed up his diesel cars. I kept this legacy going with every vehicle I owned.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Your middle paragraph sounds oh so familiar... Many must have their first crash before they take the gravity of piloting a 2 ton weapon around in the public domain. Cheers.

[@MrDertien]

@@BlueMarbleRider Once you have ridden a few kilometers slowly getting the bike up to temperature, there is one thing that gets these SUV drama queens' (both male and female) attention even more than an oversized bike and a klaxon. Briefly revving beyond 2000 RPM a few times in their immediate vicinity is necessary to improve or acknowledge their situational awareness that finally results in a the reality check with positive eye contact. Ride safely.

[@LEARTY528]

I always let my bikes idle for a few minutes before i take off and let it get warmed up an additional few minutes before i give it the beans. I live very close to the freeway 30 seconds to a minute so warm up is that much more important

[@colinhall8998]

The original exhausts on my 1978 Kawasaki are in mint condition because I always get them hot enough to burn off condensate water.

[@colinhall8998]

Engine warming is a myth, but what is really important is to get it up to temperature to boil the water out of the engine oil and exhaust.

[@3DLearningBlog]

I live in a developing country, so I just ride it away after 10 to 20 seconds of idle time. My CB750 is way too powerful for the congested traffic of Vietnam, so I ride high gear, and low rpm most of the time.

[@timhicks2154]

Griso - a fantastic machine. I have 4 x Moto Guzzis in my garage.

[@cool_breeze_actual9643]

I just do start and let idle for 5 mins on my R1 to my honda navi. Gentle riding on the navi to and from work. R1 5 min warm up, and gentle riding at 40km max for at least another 10 mins then hit the freeway or autopista. To each there own

[@rajivahir9199]

Lovely insight 💪

[@EntZeroEsc]

depends on the motorcycle

[@izakf5301]

I drive a Honda and I keep my revs high. After seeing the temp gauge says its warm I send it.

[@nrgrlsd9931]

I ride a Harley so even on a 30 degree Fahrenheit day the moment I start my bike it’s already overheating

[@daryldaryl913]

Many say the oils are so good that no need to warm up. I say the oil may be better but irs not a miracle. I will give my machinese a warm up before using. If i must ho quickly i will keep machine under 2,000 reev until i think it ready.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Agree. Thanks for the comment. Cheers.

[@achraf9946]

I turn the Bike on, than I wear my facemask helmet jacket gloves, put my phone into the holder and than I drive out the garage, getting off, closing the door. The first minutes I take it slow. Thats it.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Sounds like many riders do exactly that - start, don the gear, go gently for a while (get the tires warm too) and then start to play. Cheers.

[@gasdive]

I warm up both cars and motorcycles at idle. I've seen papers that say most of the wear occurs when the engine is cold, both cars and motorcycles. A warm engine has almost zero wear, which is why you see taxis with a million km. They get hot and stay hot. Also most of the wear comes when cylinder pressure is high. Just like bearing down on a sanding block. Getting on and riding, or driving increases the cylinder pressure. "Torque" is a direct result of the average gas pressure bearing on the piston. So for me, I can let the bike (or car) idle for 5 minutes. In that 5 minutes at 1000 rpm, the piston goes up the bore 5000 times and down the bore 5000 times. 2500 of them with a gentle pressure from the burning fuel pushing the rings out against the cylinder wall. You could think of this as 2500 strokes of sand paper sliding over a surface with just the weight of the paper. So not much wear. In contrast, riding or driving the engine heats more quickly. About twice as fast as idling. Since the wear happens when the engine is cold, most people say you should warm the engine as quickly as possible. On the face of it, that's good advice. But riding, even gently, you're at 3000 rpm or similar. So the piston goes up and down three times more often per minute, but for half the time. Obviously that's more strokes during the wear phase of startup. But worse, there's much more gas pressure pushing the rings into the cylinder wall. Now instead of being like sandpaper lightly brushing a surface, it's like leaning your weight on the sandpaper. Riding "gently" doesn't help, because that usually means low revs. Low revs just give each stroke more time to fill with fuel and air, making a higher pressure. A lower gear and smaller throttle helps more, but then other parts like bearings and cam faces get a harder time and though each stroke does less damage due to the lower cylinder pressures, there's even more of them.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

I like your train of thought. It is something that I have always believed - that riding as soon as oil pressure is good is not a good idea. I agree, gentle riding can mean using lower rpm and being tempted to lug rather than rev, both being bad ideas. Thanks for the thoughtful comment. Cheers.

[@SaltyOldBiker]

02:42 Am I seeing things or are you running a completely empty GoPro housing!? 🤔 What's taking your front view video? 😂 Cheers.

[@BlueMarbleRider]

You are not seeing things. I decided to try and experiment with only a 360 on various points around the bike, and couldn't be bothered to take the housing off - you get the gold star for detective skills :-) (So far, you're the only one so far to have noticed - I chuckled when editing wondering who would mention it.). Should really have taken it off, but it's easy to miss with a helmet on. Cheers.

[@chevchelios7342]

no need for warming up the engine if its fuel injected.. u only need 20s at idle.. but if its carbureted, than u have to warm up the engine cause it will stutter when riding... for me, more important is warming the tyres before i ride like crazy and i always check tyre pressure and the brakes and brake lines before riding

[@BlueMarbleRider]

Good point. I guess by riding gently you are warming the tires too.

[@chevchelios7342]

@BlueMarbleRider i rode yesterday at 8 9 degrees Celsius.. the Dunlop's i have on my bike were fantastic.. i was presently surprised.. never felt more grip at cold wearher with other tires

[@EricShingles-p6q]

Automatic choke means you must warm up first

[@EagerMartialArts-cl7vd]

Let it run a minute. Once it’s oiled u inside it doesn’t matter. Yes it runs better when it warms up but as long as the oil pressure is good it’s good to go.

[@CheLetton]

I warm my Z900RS the same way. It drives the wife mad!😅

[@BlueMarbleRider]

You could probably gauge how warm your Z9000RS is by the tone of your wife's voice? :-)

[@CheLetton]

@@BlueMarbleRider good point. Lol

[@akasickform]

A bike engine will always sound better than a nagging wife. Solution: Remind her why this is the case

[@user-gl2eq2ly4g]

I put a hot water bottle on it overnight with a nice blankie

[@BlueMarbleRider]

That should do it! :-)

[@fifthgearfoodie5272]

There is no best way to warm up a bike. Just start the bike and in the time it takes to put on your gloves and helmet that’s enough time.

[@cliveadams7629]

Always warm it up gently under load.

[@johnnunn8688]

Start motorcycle, ride motorcycle, turn of choke soonest.

[@chriscarbaugh3936]

Start it, get on it and ride.