Let it run a minute. Once it’s oiled u inside it doesn’t matter. Yes it runs better when it warms up but as long as the oil pressure is good it’s good to go.

In regards to thermal expansion. All the components heat up and expand at different rates. Thats why a lot of earlier air cooled engines would suffer from ovaling of the cylinders. The front facing side of the cylinder would tend to be cooler than the rear facing side. When you let a motorcycle engine warm up it allows all the components to reach the same temperature and minimizes differences in thermal expansion

Hmm, I live in Hawaii. The weather here is 75-80F or 24-27C. I almost never feel the need to warm up my engine. My bike always seems to run the same, as when 1st start my engine. My engine always seems to run hot because of the heat.

If the engine is cold, what you DON'T do is what motorcyclists feel overwhelmingly compelled to do for some reason: Sitting in the driveway and gunning the hell out of it. That comes from the days of carburetors when blipping the throttle a bit kept the engine from dying. Modern engines are fuel injected and the idle speed is probably regulated, under computer control. Start it and just let it idle on its own terms, no constant gunning needed.

Air cooled vs Water cooled and the outside air temperature is more important than a hard rule for warm up. Let air/oil cooled warm up longer than water cooled, and with both, baby them until normal operating temp has been reached (about 10 minutes). (Aircraft Tech & pilot here, plenty of air/oil cooled experience).

Why not consider riding with an airbag vest?

Basically, the same as you - My V-twin Suzuki Intruder, a little different than my old Harley require me to be tuned into the sound and the temp. I personally enjoy the warm-up process. I put on my gear while waiting for the moment, I swing my leg over and give a couple twists of the throttle, before idling the 4 blocks to the highway, and even then I don't give more than half throttle till everything feels and sounds good. I have seen and heard people rev the piss out of a cold bike and cringe. Safe riding ye all :)

I live in a developing country, so I just ride it away after 10 to 20 seconds of idle time. My CB750 is way too powerful for the congested traffic of Vietnam, so I ride high gear, and low rpm most of the time.

Screw you 🖕🏻 I follow my owners manual, so suck it ! 😉😊😆😂🤣🤪

It's always best to bring it up to: "Operating Temperature"! Look at it this way. If you want her to "put out", ya gotta warm her up! All internal combustion engines have "Operating Temperatures"...

My bikes always idle for 10 minutes as I get gear on, once on the bike I never give it some until up to temperature. Then gently lean into the tyres as they warm up. On a K5 1000 tyres have to be up to temp!

Wait so its cost effective reasoning for not using “ better” engine components ( metals)…that being the case, has anyone made (even as a “concept”) a nonproduction bike with these top of the line perfect metals used in building a bike ..? Curious if one was made in the 70’s or something and its still running perfectly with 4 million miles on it or some ridiculously high mileage…i have to wonder if the metals with low to no expansion/shrinking /anti rust etc were a real possibility and held up cause it would cost $30k for a basic bike built of these materials that at least 1 company (or all of em) wouldve made at least 1 concept bike to test …..id think yes …but it turned out it wasnt really that much more beneficial,or we’d have had at least the likes of ducati or bmw selling 1 bike for $75k or something just for the sake of being able to say its for millionaires who know what they want and will pass it on to the next 5 generations ,or something like that…not saying a high production model , but like a made to order bike you order a year in advance …..? I don’t know i get curious about these type of things when they dont add up in my confused head 😬👍🏼✌️

i have Truimph 1050R 2018. start engine from cold 🥶 in to gear no hard acceleration until fully warmed up engine still perfect with 5,000 on the clock. 🇬🇧

Suzuki Bandit 1200 here. Bike parked in a non heatered shed and parked outdoors at work most days in all weathers. Just need to use choke for less than 1 minute and its good to go. Next 4-5 minutes is always gently ridden at 30mph with stops at traffic lights until I reach the open road. No issues and for those who are going to say I'll reduce the longevity of the bike....I have the bike from new 22 years now and im only 2,000 miles shy of 100,000 miles on the clock. Bike might need (at the very most), one little top-up of oil during oil changes. If anything its the cosmetics I need to worry about and my own longevity! 😂

I let my little runabout (a Kawasaki Z125) idle maybe for a minute or two. That’s enough to grab my tank bag and put on gloves. If I just try to start and go, you can feel she doesn’t like it. And I am certainly not going to force her. She idles at around 3000 rpm when you start her. But as soon as you put her in gear and start letting the clutch out, she stalls immediately. She needs her minute or two, especially when it is cold. And I am riding even in sub zero temps (not in snow or ice though because I am not trying to off myself), so warmup is even more crucial. After her warmup minute, stalling is not an issue anymore and I can go gently. And by the time I get to the first traffic light 600m from my door, the rpms have settled down to about 1500-2000. I have her from new, got her in August 2023. Since then I put just shy of 15000 km on her. She runs Motul 10W40.

“Running in an engine”?

The owners manual states avoid excessively idling, start and ride off immediately, above 50°F (10°C) I am in the saddle I start the bike drop my visor and pull away. Under that temp, I start the bike, put on my gloves and helmet, as long as the bike has dropped off of the initial fast idle and smoothed out, light throttle riding until it is warmed up. The initial fast idle drop usually occurs in under a minute even when 15° F (-10°C). I have notice my Moto Guzzi is a little reluctant to shift into second when cold. It is first gear at neighborhood speeds. By the time I get out of the neighborhood it will shift into second. Don’t have that issue with either BMW

Start it, get on it and ride.

When you have a machine that has the potential to hit 10K+ RPM it needs two things: - Lubrication & - Clearance Not allowing for thremal expansion shortens the engine life and performance

I am a aircraft mechanic. Air cooled and water cooled aircraft piston engines are warmed up to get the oil up to operating temperature. There should be oil temp gages of motorcycles too. .

I drive a Honda and I keep my revs high. After seeing the temp gauge says its warm I send it.

I ride a Harley so even on a 30 degree Fahrenheit day the moment I start my bike it’s already overheating

as well important is the riders warm up any time of the year😊 I always take it easy on the first 50 km before having a blast

The original exhausts on my 1978 Kawasaki are in mint condition because I always get them hot enough to burn off condensate water.

Engine warming is a myth, but what is really important is to get it up to temperature to boil the water out of the engine oil and exhaust.

what crap!!

if its efi you don't need to ..only need to warm up carb bikes ..because you have to

What a lovely vid, love the "Swiss Tony" delivery "Warming a bike is like making love to a beautiful woman..." I have a 1978 GS750 it can't be ridden till it's warm

I have a Ducati Scrambler 800 and will follow your guide for your Griso (one of my favourite bikes ever, by the way). Great upload! Subscribed!

From what I've learned, air-cooled motors need the warm-up time most. The air cooling is too efficient while moving to get up to temperature since there is direct heat transfer between the motor and the air, so you must wait till the temperature rises then it will be maintained once you start riding, also since air cooling is inherently uneven, if you start riding too soon the temperature disparity between one side and the other can cause thermal warping, the parts closest to the air flow will be kept below operating temperature while the opposite side will heat up more quickly. Water cooled bikes have the intermediate latent heat from the liquid coolant that heats up and shares heat throughout the motor allowing it to more uniformly warm up the motor, and it also holds onto heat far more than an air cooled motor, furthermore, the radiator fans don't turn on till the motor is much hotter so that reserves the optimal cooling capabilities for only higher temperature applications like when you're caught in stop-start traffic with minimal airflow. My previous 3 bikes were alternating liquid and air cooled and I got a good comparison across them: > VFR800 (liquid cooled), i'd start up, put my gloves on then immediately go (60-90s), keeping revs down (3000-5000/ 11000 rpm) for the first few streets then opening it up once I was on the local main roads going to work. (10W40 Oil) > Griso 1200SE (air/oil cooled), needed more time so I wheeled it out my garage, started up, then would go put on my buff, helmet, sunglasses, pick the next song on my iPod then put my gloves on and go (3-5 min) , still keeping to the rule of maintaining low revs (2500-3500/ 8000 rpm) for the first few streets, and still accelerating mildly for a few more minutes. (10W40 Oil) > VFR1200 (liquid cooled), although it doesn't need as much time to warm up I've kept to a similar routine as the Griso, because it's got a higher capacity but more compact motor than the 800, but because it warms up for almost as long as the Griso (2.5-4 mins), but doesn't need it as much, i'm not as strict with keeping revs down, but I still only exceed 5000/10000rpm once I get on the highway to work. (10W30 Oil)

I'm perfectly fine being clinicaly insane. And there's no 'age' for stopping to ride, in any form. Either you ride, or you don't. For me riding is life. Beautiful Husa bike you've got. Lovely swedish colors ;)

10:13 .. and there's a KTM. Lovely scenery. Where about is this?

I have a KTM 350 excf, and I do about the same adventures as you. It's so much fun out in nature, such recreation.

I've only owned four motorcycles. 1983 Suzuki katana 650. Carbureted with manual choke. 2003 Suzuki 800cc Volusia carbureted with manual choke. 2006 Harley-Davidson Road glide stage 395 cubic inch screaming eagle kit fuel injected. My final bike is a 2017 Suzuki v-strom 650 fuel injected. With all of the motorcycles that I've owned, I start the motorcycle. Let it idle while I put my helmet and my riding gear on. That usually takes about 2 to 3 minutes and then I start off gently. Never ride hard until I feel as though it is running smooth and warmed up.

for all of my carburated bikes , 1 minute miniumum in winter , ride gently for 5 mins and then see if it revs smoothly to 90% of max rpm

In my carburetted machine I like to turnit on the starter until the oil pressure light goes out. Then she's ready for fuel. Otherwise I run it until it idles without choke.

Depending on ambient temp I let my DR650 warm up around 1-2 minutes and even in 90f weather she still runs rough in minnesota.

Can't believe with all the mod's you've done that you haven't put on a tail tidy that's the first thing the RS needs stock one just ugly

Based on my own experiences I always heated-up my motorbike in idle for about 3-5 minutes by fully activate the choke first then decrease it as time goes by until the bike has reach its stable idle engine. I do not play throttle snatching at all. My conclusion is: if a bike has not yet reach its ideal work temperature then it won't performs as good as it should. One day I don't have enough time to warm up because I'm in a hurry and my bike feels so so uncomfortable, acceleration is being heavier, the engine felt rough not smooth and everything doesn't seem right at its place.

I always used to let it sit running for a couple of minutes until it needed the choke taking off, to save me faffing with it on the ride. 1st bike was a 2-stroke with the choke lever in an awkward place. Current one doesn't have a manual choke but an ECM & fuel injection so I guess it probably doesn't need it.

My current bike has auto choke. Starting when cold, i let the revs settle down to normal idling pattern, then first km of riding take it easy. When bike is hot, hit the starter, wait 10-15 seconds, then ride as normal.

My 05 Kawasaki zrx1200r is remarkably easy to start and ride off on. It does require full choke to come to life. Full choke will over rev the engine if not immediately moved to almost off but enough to keep the engine running at 1,500 rpm. It's never been finicky about ambient temperatures. After about 30 seconds I shut off the choke completely and keep the revs between 1,200 and 1,500 rpms using the throttle only. 20-30 seconds later you can ride off and she doesn't hesitate or stumble. I don't push the bike hard at any time but wouldn't rev it above 4,000 rpms until I had ridden it for several miles. 99% of my riding, on this bike, occurs between 1,500 and 4,000 rpms. The 1,200 CD engine works much like a large v-twin. There's so much torque down low that riding above 4,000 rpms is unnecessary. For a carburetor bike it fuels about as well as anything I've ever ridden. It does require non-ethanol fuel to perform this well.

Seems like you reduced the idle rpms though on your Z900RS, right? Would love to hear at you did it and whether you recommend

Lovely insight 💪

Probably the best way is to never let your motorcycle get cold in the first place, and keep it in a semi heated garage. I don't have that luxury, so I have to heat up my bike, because I drive it year round.

Great video. It's funny how a lot of people don't realize the transmission needs to warm up also. I have people laughing at me because I won't drive my car until the temp gauge reads 100 degrees fahrenheit. 200,000 trouble free miles, let them laugh 😅. My bikes, warm to the touch and the sound has to be right 👍

My r1200gs says to start it and ride - don't let it sit for minutes on end. On a cold day I'll give it a few minutes. In t-shirt weather i start and go My friends, who have always had cold blooded, air cooled harleys, let them idle for at least 5 minutes

Is this Penske Road, Butte county, CA that this was video'd? Definitely Nor Cal and West side of any mountains. I run a 2023 BMW 1250 GS, Euro 5 spec exhaust requirements, and basically just run the engine very gently, riding off in 10 seconds, nothing above 2500 rpm. I short shift and keep the load minimal, almost at idle, and ride on level ground. Bike warms up pretty quickly, the tachometer has redlines based on engine coolant temperature. Cold, it's at 5000 rpm. Warmed up, it's at 9000, usually within 3 to 4 minutes. The EFI system handles the fuel mixture ratio. Water cooled. I like to see at least 120F for my oil temperature before I Honk on Bobo. 120 F was the oil temperature that Rotax Engineering required on their 1265cc 100 HP aviation engines, before doing run up under load at 4000 rpm to check the dual ignition systems for function. From there, a pilot ususally then had another minute or two before being cleared by the tower for full throttle application and take off at 5300 rpm under full load. I'd say oil temps by take off were at 140 to 150F. I never run my BMW's hard when the oil is cold. Oil too, needs to be at a proper operating temperature before running a motor hard.

I get my K25 (BMW Adventure GS 1200 - 2006) out of the stable manually by means of a push back, make sure the handlebar heating switch is off during winter, and also verify the off status of the extra fog lights. Then, I turn the ignition on and let it idle between 5 and 10 minutes, regardless of winter or summer. 5 minutes + is enough time to put on the middle pannier, fill it with the essentials, slide the GPS and the Phone in their respective cradles, put on boots, jacket, gloves, helmet and tune in the music to Jazz. The Jazz helps to keep calm in order to navigate our battered Belgian roads and slide swiftly past countless rows of oversized and overweight SUV's waiting at the traffic lights, all of them cocooning its only occupant in their driver seats; damsels that are oblivious to the world that is alive beyond the metal armor and glass of their armored carriage. Oblivious to everything, except their first or last minute mascara-jobs; a daily routine of self-reflection performed in readjusted rear-view mirrors and missing by more than a mere seconds the switch from red to green. By that time, the boxer's monotonous purr advises me it is ready for the leg swing and the traffic weave. The warming up OCD is a tradition instilled into me by my grandfather, who always warmed up his diesel cars. I kept this legacy going with every vehicle I owned.

You might want to check your description of the enrichener. What you described was actually a choke, saying that the butterfly restricts the flow of air, with less air making the air/fuel mix richer. That is what a choke does. When you pull the knob, an enrichener simply adds fuel to the air/fuel mix until you push the knob back in, cutting off the enrichener and restoring the normal air/fuel ratio the carburetor provides. Remember, not all carburetors have butterflies. Some have slides, some have butterflies, some have both. Sometimes the slide is directly connected to the throttle cables, but in CV carbs the slide is moved by the effect of vacuum on a diaphragm.