BMW 1-series125i 128i 135i Heater Not Working FIXED !!!

[@Fox1486]

Thank you for this! Just experienced freezing vent air, in 32 degree weather. Pulled it in the garage, flushed, backflushed, and used some compressed air. Flowed a lot more efficiently. Buttoned it up, fired the car up. Hot air again! Beats having to tear apart the dash. Worked on my 2012 e92 N55. Thank you!

[@andyroo3022]

ATTENTION:I easy fixed the interior heating on my E92 N54 engine coupe this afternoon. I removed the top firewall cowling and the factory strut brace to get easier access. I removed ONLY the top heater hose at the firewall and blew compressed air through the inlet on the firewall to the heater core. I then put a piece of clear tubing that fit snug in the heater core inlet hole (firewall) connected the garden hose and let it rip. A lot of old grey water came out. I also had previously disconnected the clip on the coolant refill tank small top hose and ran a lot of water back through this end of the small hose. I topped up my coolant tank with concentrated anti boil/ Antifreeze and ran the engine till hot. I took it for a drive and the heater now works. No more cold air and foggy windows. Ready for winter. Also go into your i drive go to settings - Climate control. I selected medium. This can sometimes also help. I am so happy now. The heater core often gets blocked on N54 and other BMW cars. Forums usually say its a stuck thermostat. You can rule this out if all your coolant hoses are hot to touch. I used a digital thermometer. Good luck.

[@thivesennayager6278]

Thank you,thank you thank you thank you 😁! If I could add one step to make this easier, you can disconnect the heater core pipes, 1 at the top of the radiator, and the 2 bellow (connected to a metal pipe with quick connectors) won't have to battle at the firewall or buy any pipes.

[@damiann4734]

do you need to remove the thermostats to do this? I assume it would be closed right? Would it also destroy the water pump?

[@devinsmith4151]

Its not just the chemicals certain peoples use. If the wrong coolant used (like the stuff your using now), you accelerate the corrosion. Essentially the pipe diameters will reduce causing heat issues, the outlet pipes that is connected right at the cylinder head are particularly small.

[@derekgilger6243]

Wow green antifreeze coolant, Not in BMW

[@TheNoobComment]

nice coolant color, must not used the blue bmw coolant, no wonder.

[@AdrianJayeOnline]

nice 1 been looking around for procedures to flush the heater core, TXS (128i e88)

[@I2obbie12]

My 2011 E90 w/ the N55 heater stopped blowing hot, shop flushed the heater core/exchanger and it was clogged w/ sand looking debris. So random but now my heater works like normal

[@divakim206]

Hi, can you remember the approximate cost for the flush?

[@PhillipSauer]

Will this work on 118d?

[@lattaj]

How did you remove lower push lock hose? Mine is stuck and won’t come out?

[@seanpaul3050]

I’m guessing that when oil an water start mixing in these engines (due to the oil filter housing gasket failing) that the resulting mayonnaise ends up in the heater core. Because that may be one of the highest points in the cooling system. Probably best to always flush the heater core after replacing a failed oil filter housing gasket and refill with new BMW coolant obviously.

[@efthimios]

would a valve cover gasket leak contribute to that mess getting in the heater core?

[@divakim206]

Hi, were you losing coolant also or just no heat?

[@valentineantonioduplessis7513]

My heater works on the one side nut not the other side. The one side worms up but not the drivers side. What can i do

[@karloldham4261]

I had same problem today. remove your heater hoses and use a garden hose to do a reverse flush and watch all the dirt come out. Re-anti-freeze and now my heaters all very hot on both sides.

[@PhillipSauer]

​@@karloldham4261 Hey man, i need some info on this thing. i've got the same problem on a 118d do you think you can help out?

[@joe39216]

Iv got exactly the same problem on my 118d I’m going to flush it over the weekend to see if it fixes it

[@PhillipSauer]

@@joe39216 hey man let me know how this works out for you.

[@spartan6266]

You don’t have to refill it with coolant the car will cycle it back in there long as you do the bleed process

[@smackeen]

I am having a no heat issue on my 2013 135is. I’m gonna have to have the shop check. Was the dash tear down necessary for this?

[@divakim206]

Hi did you figure out your question to the dash tear down?

[@socommaster]

Does a normal coolant flush at the dealer clean the heater core?

[@seanpaul3050]

No chance. The heater core is one of the highest points in the system which is probably why the mayonnaise produced when oil and water start mixing ends up in there. A simple coolant drain is never going to shift that sticky mess. Best to flush directly with water under mains pressure from a garden hose in both directions twice over. BMW dealer is never going to do that on a normal coolant drain and refill.

[@Doogleraia]

Been meaning to ask you if you have any experience with the trunk hatch wiper mechanism/sleeve on the E39 Touring being stuck inside the wondow switch that holds the micro switch. I was going to replace my wiper-assembly on the hatch of the car because it was completely seized, so I have to replace the whole thing (part nr. 61627067893), but the "sleeve" part of it is completely stuck inside the plastic section of the window/micro switch part. I'm hesitant to whale on it with a hammer or something (but doing it with a rubber mallet got the center rod that rotates inside the sleeve out of it, but the sleeve is still completely stuck). Any idea what I can do about it? Or will I just have to replace the whole switch-housing as well as the rear wiper pivot, and saw the rear wiper pivot off or something?

[@AdrianJayeOnline]

BTW, as the system is under preassure, before you pulled the pipes, what prep work did you do prior? txs

[@daredevil7442AUTOMOTIVE]

Cheers! Good to see it with heat. Do you know why stop leak was added to the system? Anyways, great videos and I'm learning a lot from your channel, I bought a E39 about 3 weeks ago, my first German car and I also have been doing my own maintenance and your channel help....alot.

[@NathansBMWWorkshop]

daredevil7442 it's had a lot of coolant leaks which is why the added coolant I'm sure, the e39 is a lot easier to work on for sure

[@sammyriverajr1014]

Nathan's DIY Garage my friend how do i reset the alarm on my 2003 bmw 525i also the red indicator light on the Mirror isn't blinking anymore and my key FOB has a dead battery so it doesn't work to reset the alarm how can I get the alarm to reset and the light to blink?

[@NathansBMWWorkshop]

There is a 7.5 amp fuse in the trunk fuse box above the battery that is probably blown

[@sammyriverajr1014]

Nathan's DIY Garage thanks nathan i will check it out

[@happycrickets1901]

sammy rivera jr I thought the battery charged automatically when you use it. I had the same issue. It wasnt the fuse like I suspected. I just had to reset the key by getting in the car and and turning the ignition like 3 times and then point the key to the right rear and press the button. Not exactly sure of the steps but it went something like that. There are a ton of forums and videos that guide you through it step by step.

[@adampye905]

Do the end of the pipes go to the heater valve

[@SicSemperBeats]

My heater core hoses are stuck on there. Took the clamp off now the hose won’t remove.

[@triggahappi2732]

I had the same issue. Did you ever get them off?

[@SicSemperBeats]

@@triggahappi2732 yes over the course of two days. I took a pick and got under the top one and worked around. That helped i think but it didnt get it off. I also poured boiling water over it. I ended up able to pull it off so you have to just mess with it alot. Not sure why it was stuck on after the clamp was removed. The bottom one is one of those slide clamp lock types. I took the clamp off and it was stuck too. Its plastic at the end so there’s no putting a pick in, so i just pulled as hard as possible for a about an hour and it came off. I used the gardening hose method to flush the core and my heat works now. There wasnt any yellow stop leak like the video in my 335i, it was more of a silty somewhat sandy translucent material and not a ton of it but a decent amount. Good luck, theyll come off eventually just mess with them.

[@martinnadeau9181]

Mine don't heat passenger right side 335xi 2007

[@plightn]

How many miles on this baby at the time of this fix?

[@Steve-bh3zg]

Would this be kinda the same for a e90

[@1v1qsns]

Same engines. So if you have an N52/54/55 I would ASSUME yes but don’t quote me on that

[@fastboatster]

Where did you get replacement orings?

[@seanpaul3050]

There’s a guy on eBay selling a kit with all o-rings for various bmw engines

[@AlxN52]

What about the bleeder screw does it needs to be open while the procedure is happening?

[@seanpaul3050]

Only open while filling the system. Closed when doing the automatic bleed procedure. The bleed procedure will not get all the air out at first attempt. Best to repeat 3 times before starting the engine. Also use a battery charger while doing so or in between each bleed process to bring the battery back up to good voltage. Running the water pump for 12 minutes will drain the battery, especially if the battery is getting old.

[@AlxN52]

@@seanpaul3050 thank you

[@erikandterri]

Good job!

[@Neopiece007]

Great Job Dude! 😎

[@AdrianJayeOnline]

great vid, liked and sub'd

[@quadsportsuzuki]

Bmw are so complicated cars

[@mhugo9]

Yup, I hate working on European junk 🙈

[@randyr.8536]

Dude just put the wrong coolant 💀💀

[@Pierofelizzola]

🤣🤣🤣i have a 2010 535i xdrive between 2 water pumps and every possible oil leak i have over 300 hrs ..... bmw is only for mechanic owner....or just LEASE it...