BMW E39 `02 w M62TU pt.6 oil pan, lower and upper timing cover, tensioner plunger install

[@rjright7373]

Great vid guys, lots of extra detail. Personally I would sand those grooves in the timing cover to prevent a potential crack from any stress & I will put a flat magnet In bottom of oil pan too! Since I’m doing this in the vehicle (‘03 Range Rover HSE) it may not be so easy to do oil pan removal without the kit for the 2 piece replacement pick up tube to make the installation process possible and future EZ removal. Not Looking forward to doing this job but wanna do it right the first time! Took a lot of searching to find this vid and should be on top for the extra details! XD

[@AutoDrdiy]

I wouldnt recommend removing any excess material from t-cover. It really isnt a high stress area at any specific points, to crack. Thanks for watching.

[@ahernandez1981]

Great video btw. Quick questions: when removing the tensioner plunger should I try and fish a wire to hold the tensioner in place? I'm not planning to fuss with the timing, just want to change out the gasket. Also @11:45 you pulled the crank pin when putting the oil pan on. Can you explain the importance of doing so? Was this something you added before the video started for the "top dead center"? I'm planning to DIY this project but I'm not sure how the crank pin ties into the work. Thanks in advance.

[@AutoDrdiy]

If not using the special tools and setting the engine to TDC first, then maintaining the chain tension would be advised. The cams could at any time be able to jump time a tooth if the chain became loose. Unless the special cam holding tools are installed. Be sure to secure tensioner arm with a method capable of holding up to 10 lbs.

[@AutoDrdiy]

This is a series of 8 video`s involving replacement of the timing chains and guides.. So cam holding tools were also used. And since I had already installed and set the timing chains, while I was installing the oil pan and was under there, I went ahead and pulled the crank pin so I didnt have to go back under there again just to pull pin. Mose over video and hit (i) to see the link to video 1, or continue to video 7.

[@FabianCharrua]

Hi. Do you know if the P/S pump chain has an adjustment if it seems to loose? Of course you'd have to remove the pan gasket to access it. How did you clean the pick up screen did you take it out?

[@andig28]

I noticed between the last video and this video, the upper oil pan gasket is removed. Mine is still in tact and seems to be fine. Would you recommend I cut it out and create a new one with RTV silicone? Or would it be okay to just reinstall the lower timing cover as is? Thank again for these videos and all your help.

[@AutoDrdiy]

I just usually put a layer of silicone on top of old gasket, and a bead against the block corners. Just to freshen & seal up the paper surface. Thanks for watching.

[@andig28]

@@AutoDrdiy Perfect, thank you once again!

[@stuartcowen9354]

@@AutoDrdiy would you recommend trying to swab some RTV underneath the gasket to the upper pan also? You mention "hock and puckey" at one point - is that RTV or something else? Thanks for the vids - taking it step by step.

[@AutoDrdiy]

@@stuartcowen9354 Yes that is RTV, and it wouldnt hurt to have some in there. Thanks for watching

[@andig28]

While tightening the lower timing cover bolts, one of the longer 10mm bolts stretched and nearly broke off in the block (my heart rate immediately spiked). I was slowing working all the bolts to 10Nm in a star pattern of sorts, being really careful. I've since removed all the bolts (except the 13mm ones, they torqued to 15Nm), and noticed a number of the 10mm bolts are stretched. Should all the bolts be replaced before putting the timing covers back on? I've priced all the bolts for the lower and upper covers and they're super expensive, about $200 shipped. I spent the day yesterday reading about bolts and am wondering if I can just buy aftermarket steel bolts with the proper grade since the M62TU block and heads are aluminum, at least for those bolts that are unreasonable expensive. It seems the BMW bolts are coated, and the best I can tell from the dull silver finish, the coating may be cadmium, but it's hard to find this information. Also, if the bolts are cadmium-plated, I read that the maximum tightening should be 30% less (so around 7Nm for M6 bolts), so it got me wondering if that was part of my problem (seems unlikely). I'm just trying to figure out why the bolts are weak. My X5 is nearly 19 years old so maybe the bolts need to be replaced. My apologies for the long-winded comment.

[@AutoDrdiy]

10 Nm isnt going to stretch or break anything, I would say that the torque wrench has a calibration problem. And typical afer-market bolts will work fine, as lo g as the length is in the ball-park. Thanks for watching

[@andig28]

@@AutoDrdiy That's good to know about the aftermarket bolts, thanks. I guess the torque wrench could be an issue, though I have a general ideal of what 10 Nm feels like and the resistance didn't feel way off base. Is it possible the bolts are weak after 18+ years of use? I'm definitely going to buy BMW replacement bolts for the ones I wrecked, but maybe not the whole lot (some are $10 a pop, which just seems outrageous to me). As always, thank you for your amazing videos, and your helpful and timely responses.

[@andig28]

@@AutoDrdiy You were exactly right. I went and bought another torque wrench (that measures in inch pounds to give me greater accuracy at that low of a level) and the bolts were indeed being overtightened. Thank you again.

[@AutoDrdiy]

@@andig28 Yes sir, those bolts would take take 15 Nm without a problem, but not recommended. Lucky didnt strip threads out of engine. Thanks for watching.

[@vosedon]

great video man. how many miles did you have when you did this?

[@AutoDrdiy]

120k