BMW N52 engine rebuild part 4 the end

just a few final details nothing complicated or exiting just need it to finish the series , thanks for watching, I hope this is useful to some one thank again

[@johnpetersen8116]

Thank you for posting this series. My N52 lives again thanks in no small part to your videos!

[@matthewrushton14]

Hi, I really loved this three part videos Test question please? I have a 2008 528xi n52 video gave me a lot of knowledge. Can I ask how long it took you to do the complete rebuilt the time you built the whole engine , also how many hours it took to put into the vehicle? One last question are you a mechanic by trade or have you just learned this over the years of fixing your vehicles?

[@VendestM]

Hi, thank you for your videos, I'm going to start reassembling my B30 soon but I don't dare to use steel screws for the engine mount. When disassembling I used the aluminum screws of the gearbox but without the cylinder head it has already started to bend. I see that you used the steel screws, you didn't have any corrosion with the magnesium alloy of the engine?

[@bmwn5238]

sorry, do you mean the actual engine mount braket or you talking about the engine stand ?

[@VendestM]

Thank you for your reply. I'm talking about the engine support used for the rebuild. I wonder if I can use the steel screws when it is necessary to put only aluminum screws in this engine. Will the few weeks they will be in the engine cause corrosion between the steel and the magnesium alloy

[@bmwn5238]

@@VendestM for the " engine stand " is ok to used steel bolts , rust will no show or apera in short used of time ,, you will be ok using steel bolts for the "engine stand " if you worried used a couple of droops of engine oil

[@VendestM]

Thank you a lot !

[@BronzeMedHelm]

Excellent videos! Wish I had a garage. Found broken aluminum head bolts on the timing section of my engine during valve cover job. Need to leave this for the mechanic, unfortunately. Is there a reason why you didn't use the BMW loctite/sealant for the main seals?

[@bmwn5238]

the only reason i dint use the Loctite is because is very expensive and the sealant i used work as well they are basically to core same thing "Silicone " the only difference is that the Loctite is design to be able to be injected ,, call me cheap lol, and as far as you broken bolts try turning them with a pick or screw drive they are not under tension so some times is easy to take them out

[@dusanveselinovic7514]

Hello from Serbia. I have 525i n52 can you help me with sugest what can be problem. My mehanics change oil and when filter changing he drop oil cap plastic cage in filter. I didnt know that and i drove car about 6500km six month. Car start to sound like diesel car, and i found problem. Change vanos solenoid both, vanos camshaft variator both, valve rubbers, camshaft o ring with new teflon four rings,gasket valve cover. Start up the car and car first start normaly 15-20minutes. Then i turn off car to add oil and start up and car immediatly start to sound like diesel again. Timing chain looks good, not new but tight. I measured compression in cilinders and there are good. Dont know what to do else, oil pump replacment or timing chain with new hidraulic lifter or somethink i dont know, maybe you know better?

[@bmwn5238]

you question is allover the place first make a list of the parts that you change second just concentrate in the problem and the symptoms make a list

[@dusanveselinovic7514]

@@bmwn5238 I changed both vanos cam variators, both vanos solenoids, valve rubbers because there was bad,camshaft o rings, valve cover gasket. Car sound like diesel car knocking under the valve cover. Car doesnt have power and when i accelerate full throttle car start to limp mode and start to shaking. I start to thinking that car is not propertly toothed.

[@dusanveselinovic7514]

Problem is that car doesnt have power and knocking under engine. Before and after changing parts car sounds same and drive. Knocking under valve cover. Car have vanos code 2a82 ocassionally.

[@bmwn5238]

@@dusanveselinovic7514 going to have to open the oil pan to check for rod knocking

[@BronzeMedHelm]

1. Are you sure your vanos solenoids connectors weren't swapped? check this as it's a common mistake and can cause issues to what you're having. 2. If your vanos sprockets (cam variators) were replaced, sounds like someone incorrectly timed the engine.