BMW R850/R1100/R1150/R1200 Telelever Ball Joint Rubber Boot Replacement (Easy DIY Job)

A torn ball joint boot on the Telelever suspension on your BMW R850/R1100/R1150/R1200 should not cost you an arm and a leg to repair. If the ball joint is still good, all you need to do is replace the rubber boot. While this is not a 5min job like some sites will have you believe, it is definitely doable by anyone with a bit of mechanical interest and a few common hand tools.
In this video, I go over the important steps you need to take in order to replace your BMW Telelever ball joint boot yourself at home.
Some important info include:
- Ball joint nut torque: 130Nm (with blue Loctite)
- Ball joint nut size: 21mm
- Joint bolt securing hole: 7mm hex head
- Loctite meting point: 120C / 250F
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[@ntsh666]

Everything is great, you need to use red lock tite. BMW service manual states to replace the ball joint but as long as there is no up and down play you are good. I bought socket and cut it in the center to fit Allen key. I used zip ties to stretch the ring and slipped it on. Use red lock tite and monitor with a sharpie mark. The blue lock tite will start to loosen up minute you hit the gravel road.

[@jacktad1971]

This was most useful info to date. I have just ordered a replacement boot and thought I'd 'just google the job' and so glad I came across your video. As you say, so many KZbinrs give it the 'simply remove' guidance but they often cut out all the aggravation that goes with the end product. :-)

[@GreaseAndGravel]

Thanks for the feedback! I know the frustration. I tend to always struggle with something that no-one else finds difficult. Let me know if you have any questions or struggle with anything and I'll try to help. good luck!

[@jacktad1971]

@AdventureBikeTroop Will do. I'm also attempting the replacement of the wheel bearings in the final drive. Lot's of feedback from members on the GS group on FB, suggesting that I give it to a BMW specialist to do but I have know how and most of the tools, so I'm going to do it myself. Spares were £165 Inc P&P and when I consulted a recommended guy for estimation of whole job, he came back with £650....so that sealed it for me. I've never done it before but I might try a time-lapse recording of the job, and may even consider sharing the experience on my channel. 🤞 Keep up the interesting content and I follow you with interest.

[@GreaseAndGravel]

@@jacktad1971 I am the same. I always get quotes for the job and the parts, then rather buy the tools and try it myself. Please, if you can, make a video and post it on your channel. I've subscribed for it so long :) I've ordered the front and rear boots, my rear one is torn, and want to do the spline lube at both ends soon. I will make a video too. Cheers and thanks for the support.

[@jacktad1971]

@AdventureBikeTroop I've just done this one as the front was torn and there's some useful tips on different channels but the only 2 tips I'll give you on this task, is 1) mark up your torque nut on the swing arm bearing (left hand side) before removal, as the torque setting is minimal (9Nm off the top of my head) when replacing and 2) mount/seat the forward gaiter in the swing arm before sliding the swing arm back in place, over the already mounted drive shaft. The rubber gaiter is easily mounted on the engine drive shaft end to be secured in place with a cable tie. Good luck.

[@GreaseAndGravel]

@@jacktad1971 Thanks, I really appreciate it!! That is great advice. One question: Do you have the special socket with the cut-out for the allen key (to hold the bolt that holds the swingarm bearing down)?

[@afhostie]

Instead of a double wrench, you could try using a Crows Foot so that you can put it on a breaker bar. However, you don't want the normal crows foot. Look for a Flare Nut Crows Foot which will be 6 sided (one side is partially open like a flare nut wrench). That way you can get lots of torque without rounding it as easily.

[@GreaseAndGravel]

Thanks! I need to get a crowsfoot

[@1ferdovic]

Perfect...

[@GreaseAndGravel]

Thanks!

[@berentsenct4968]

Top thx

[@Brick_dont_hit_back]

How much was this part ?

[@terryboyle]

Just a quick note: It's the red loctite that needs to be heated

[@GreaseAndGravel]

Thanks, Terry! I checked now and it looks like the blue still has a temp range of up to 180C (red = 250C). To be honest, it is these things that always make me take twice as long :) Thanks for watching

[@MFDOOMgr]

what do you mean with heated? to get it off? or to harden it?

[@AndreyKaplin]

I think you should replace the ball joint...

[@GreaseAndGravel]

It still looked fine. But probably never a bad idea

[@AndreyKaplin]

@@GreaseAndGravel a working ball joint doesn't move like that...

[@dawienaude8110]

Hi waar het jy die boot gekoop

[@GreaseAndGravel]

Hi Dawie. Ek het by Flying Brick gekry vir R490 flyingbrick.co.za/product/tele-lever-ball-joint-boot-for-bmw/ Ek sou ook by BMW uitvind. Die swingarm boots was nie te duur nie.