BMW RT/RTP Clutch Adjustment

How to adjust the clutch engagement point on BMW RT-P/RT/GS

[@stevenzhou925]

Thanks so much for this! Now I set the friction point on 1300GS to match my Honda, much better when switching back and forth. BTW, both screws on my 24’ 1300GS are 2mm hex.

[@PoliceMotorTraining]

@@stevenzhou925 thanks for the info- I’ll check on that when I get the 1300 RT-P👍

[@sqward]

Excellent. I was wondering whether such adjustment was possible. Not only to bring the biting point but also to make it more consistent between different BMW bikes.

[@greglipschitz]

Thank you for your video. This is just what I needed. I asked the dealership and they had no bloody idea.

[@alaindehaene3048]

thanks a million 2013 r1200rt worked great

[@BlackBirdieGolf]

Thank you for your service from a fellow officer. I just bought a used R1250RT and I'm still having trouble getting the bike moving. I have the friction zone but once I let on the throttle the bike stops running. I think 8 to 12times I try to roll on the throttle then the bike goes. So damn annoying.

[@danromagnoli1243]

Its the same for the k1600glt. Thanks for the tip.

[@ode4492]

I've found it hard to achieve a happy medium. If I adjust the friction zone and lever reach to where I like it (further in as you're showing), the clutch doesn't want to disengage all the way; i.e. neutral is hard to find, and shifting is more crunchy. When adjusted out, shifting is smooth with very little clash and neutral is very easy to find. Have you found a happy medium?

[@PoliceMotorTraining]

Not sure what year/model you have, I DID experience a similar issue on an older dry clutch model with aftermarket clutch, however on the newer wet-clutch versions this has not been my experience. I would recommend adjusting the lever so its fully disengaging the clutch, and look into getting a Vario-lever from Wunderlich. It has way more adjustable range at the lever and takes just a few minutes to install. It should solve your problem. www.wunderlichamerica.com/BMW_K1600_R1200_R1250_RT_Vario_Brake_Clutch_Levers

[@oxide8182]

I dont know why they set it so far out from the factory. I did the same for the front brake, still end up keeping the quick adjusters on 1.

[@wizardz7938]

thank you for this i will try again on my bike. last night i guess the screw was too far in when in first gear the clutch did not engange at all it was slippin. going out to see what i did wrong. I installed AVG levels r1250

[@PoliceMotorTraining]

Don’t tighten the set screw underneath yet, just keep working with the adjustment screw until it feels good 👍

[@michaelmarconi]

But which thread locker to use when you find the right spot; Loctite blue or red?

[@PoliceMotorTraining]

I don’t typically use thread Locker to secure the locking screw after I make my adjustment. But if you feel better about using thread Locker do not use red. Make sure you go with blue.

[@cubax599]

Gold. Cheers!

[@jamesfilice6072]

My little hands are blessing you. I also got brake lever where I like it.

[@PoliceMotorTraining]

Hey buddy, that’s great to hear. There’s nothing better than getting your controls where you feel like you actually have control!

[@SAB-iq1kp]

Thank you!!

[@poljeurgen3940]

Thanks you for sharing

[@MayorofDipshittery-lq7if]

Really helpful, thanks.

[@micce-dk3xs]

Nice, thank you

[@markneblett2777]

Info: the set screw is a Torx on my R1250.

[@PoliceMotorTraining]

Thanks Mark-It's possible they changed it from year-to-year, I have had multiple owners tell me Torx and others tell me Allen. For my bike, 2023, the allen is correct. I think either CAN work but because the initial crack of the set screw is under a little bit of thread locker, you need to be sure so it doesn't strip.

[@axeffektt]

I'm struggling with this. I have a 2019 R 1250 RT and what I'll call the horizontal adjustment is a 2mm allen. The "locking" hardware on the bottom of the lever is honestly not identifiable. It has the orange goop on it, and it honestly looks like a nut, but there's no way to get a wrench or a socket on it. I've been searching all over the interwebs. I bought this bike used with very low miles, and it has nearly no friction zone, even with the easy adjustment knob all the way in.

[@PoliceMotorTraining]

The lower lock screw is NOT a nut. Watch my video again- that bottom lock screw should be a 2 mm Allen key and the horizontal adjuster should be a torx T8.

[@axeffektt]

@@PoliceMotorTraining I watched it many times over trying to figure this out for sure. I'll take another look this evening. Maybe the locking hardware is obscured by the orange goop. Can't tell if that's locktight, or just sealant. I took pictures if you have an email I can send them to.

[@PoliceMotorTraining]

@@axeffektt that orange goo absolutely fills the little hole so when you put the hex wrench in there carefully move it back-and-forth, don’t spin it, or strip anything, but move it around back-and-forth and wipe off the tool, over few moments, you will notice the orange goo will start to fall out of the hole and then you can get the wrench inside so you can loosen it.

[@axeffektt]

@@PoliceMotorTraining Ok. Thanks. I'll try that.

[@PoliceMotorTraining]

take a needle and scrape out the orange stuff and it should reveal a 2 mm Allen adjuster.

[@micce-dk3xs]

Tank you for posting this. Was adding clutch and brake leaver from Touratech 01-045-5641-0 and missed out on this :)

[@UpstateDS]

I just did this on my 2016 r1200rt. It was a torx T8 for both upper and lower. Weird

[@PoliceMotorTraining]

I’ve had people tell me it is a torx T8 like you, and others corrected me that it was an Allen wrench. For my bike it is an Allen on the main locknut. Yeah that is odd.

[@AdinMesanovic-mb6kq]

Tnx💪

[@angelwink]

t9

[@Ryan-um5fq]

promo sm