BMW, VW, Porsche Clutch Bleeding

[@jamescox9206]

I must say I hardly ever leave comments but this is the clearest and easiest way I've seen. Definitely super clear instructions.

[@georgebeuselinck951s]

After seeing this several years ago, I have recommended this method to my friends with Porsche 944 cars. The clutch slave cylinder is positioned in the bell housing in a way the traps an air bubble away from the bleed screw. This method solves that problem. Thanks for making the video!

[@conradpaul489]

The recommended process is using a line from the front driver caliper and attaching it to the open bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder and GENTLY pump air out. Two to three pumps will do it. Got this from an Audi repair manual.

[@PapaSmurf337]

"using a line from the front driver caliper" This needs more explanation ... run tube from Bleeder screw @ fr driver caliper and running it to Bleeder screw @ clutch slave/bleeder block? Or detach the front driver brake line from the caliper side while leaving the master cylinder/distribution side of the line still connected? so it is then looped from brake master cylinder to clutch slave bleeder? Aren't most caliper side line ends a Banjo fitting?

[@davidgruen7423]

Can I flip the car over and bleed it that way?

[@aaronbane969]

Almost, ready to go?

[@davidgruen7423]

Guys over the years I have discovered another to do this, that is to pressurize the system with pressure bleeder to 2 bars and push the pedal back and forth for 20 times in quick succession.

[@biro24]

15 years since this gentleman posted this video and his teaching has helped me bleed my golf’s clutch master 😃

[@matijat3352]

Congratulations. Used a container with a pump for liquid soap and rinsed the entire system in 5 minutes. Simple and fast. Thanks for the advice. 👍🏻

[@RichDasix]

This is exactly how my VW VR6 manual says to bleed the slave, hook up a line to the driver front brake and pump it until you get clean brake fluid until the end of the hose, then connect to hose to the bleeder on the slave and force the air out to the reservoir. Reservoir cap needs to be off all the time and you might have to top off the reservoir as you are forcing fluid out of the brakes. Great demo, really helpful!

[@minzahhh1]

You use the pressure in the brake system to tap into the fitting on the clutch slave and reverse pressure bleed using the brake pedal ? Is that correct

[@darrenpowell7225]

Did it work I’ve installed a new clutch on my VR6 and bled it from a pressure bleeder and the clutch will not engage. You can’t drive. I’m hoping it helps.

[@DB-xu8fd]

The ONLY way of replacing the clutch fluid! Simple and easiest way of doing it. Thanks a lot for the vid!

[@jragan]

@sphinxx187 Didn't see it mentioned in the video, but in order for this to work, you'll have to have the cap off of the reservoire otherwise you're trying to force new fluid into a closed system and you'll encounter resistence which could push it out through the threads of the bleeder.

[@likits1999]

Woooooow! You're a genius for putting the whole show together and an instructor for explaining everything in so much detail. I learned the right way to bleed a hydraulic system tonight. Thanks so much and my hat off to you sir.

[@conormcshane4794]

Right I'm happy I found this video gunna try this method today

[@29brianjames]

Im surprised with how many different methods their are to doing something so simple. Thank You, yours seemed to work perfect for me.

[@masonosbourne6488]

Dude.. you totally saved my life.. was super frustrated doing the stomp method with friend after switching to a uuc stainless steel braided line and DCV delete.. wound up doing this on slave cylinder, then each section of pipe and line.. pumped the clutch a few times. .and viola.. car: e36 M3.. thanks !!! BTW if anyone is curious, the delay control valve delete was great.. gave me a new found respect for the car..

[@shnrbtlle18]

I used this method on my 86 Jeep Comanche this morning and it worked perfect. Thank you so much for the advice. I am I guess a back yard mechanic so to speak and love to learn new things that work. I did it one time and it worked perfectly, after having this problem for so long it's a relief to have a clutch that just works. Again thank you for the video. I have subscribed and will spread the word to other folks having the same troubles.

[@NEAWD]

I did this today. Got the idea from the video. Worked perfectly and took about 1/10th of the time it would take to bleed the clutch the normal way.

[@trailerparknut]

Mate, you are the man! I have a BMW M635csi, that i have had pressure bled at a shop. I am now in Switzerland where they charge minimum 150 Swiss francs per hour, and just completed a slave cylinder replacment myself. I couldn't even get a fraction of a peddle, after hours. Your trick worked in under five minutes. Remarkably, the brakes feel better too! (maybe on account of new fluid). Thank you so very much for taking the time with this video. Kind regards Kiwi In Switzerland

[@528im52]

Yes, This video and the method used can be used with almost any type of vehicle.

[@manuelvieru1363]

I bled my clutch using your method after changing master and slave cylinder and it was super easy and fast. Great video!

[@mrstamped1316]

Did changing these two parts with the bleeding of the system as well, solve your shifting problems?? Having said issue with an e46 bmw..just wondering, because i have changed the slave cylinder but still waiting for master cylinder in mail. Will be using this method to bleed the system..

[@manuelvieru1363]

@@mrstamped1316 Yes, it did. But, in my case, the clutch disc and pressure plate were new (replaced few month before). If you replace master and slave cylinder and still have shifting problems, it might be the pressure plate.

[@mrstamped1316]

@@manuelvieru1363 my clutch is fine, maybe 5k miles on it. I'm sure it's a hydraulic system failure. But thanks for getting back to me, I appreciate it !

[@charlesc786]

It worked like a charm on my 2003 R53. I tried a couple of different ways to bleed the system and none of them worked very well. I tried this method and it worked. I'm finally back on the road. I hated the thought of taking it in to a shop!

[@zitroct]

Awesome information! You save me a lot of time, money and frustration. It worked like a charm on my 2004 VW Jetta. Thank you so much!!!

[@catron89]

On your R53 did you have to compress the piston on the slave cylinder?

[@barny2882]

Big thumbs up - a video that clearly keeps giving. Saved me with a VW clutch when all other approaches failed. Thanks!

[@CoryC54]

I just wanna say, after using this method a half dozen times, it's by FAR the best way to bleed brakes if you're doing a master or a line or something where there's lots of air in the system. I still use a pressure bleeder from the top if I'm doing a caliper or slave, but for doing anything else, this works great! Huge thanks!

[@organika875]

ends the video with, "and your almost ready to go" that makes me feel confident

[@thisflynn]

Huge help, Thank you! Just bubbled out the clutch for my 2004 MINI Cooper S Things I learned: MINI uses a 10mm wrench - - Get a pump without paint (the brake fluid dissolves it and you get flakes in the fluid)

[@dansherrill6095]

no air went into your brakes, or ABS?

[@josebentodecarvalho5362]

This worked in my bmw e36 !! I get my clutch pedal hard as a rock again. I filled the reservoir with new oil, open the slave bleed valve hoping the new oil to get down and some fluid came out but the reservoir level was the same. At this point i had no clutch pedal pressure. I put oil in a seringe and pressed the oil from the slave cilinder to the reservoir like shown in this video and it worked!

[@toomanymachines]

I just used this method for my 2011 golf. worked great. Tried applying pressure from the top, no luck. tried to suck it through with vacuum, no luck. This worked within minutes. good thing I had a bran new Swiss Reilang oil can in the cupboard.

[@billthompson9200]

Thank you so much for posting this ! Porsche 928 S4 - I was struggling mightily trying to get the mushy out of the clutch for the first 10 minutes of drive while pressure built up. Power bleeder didn’t work at all - 10 minutes with this process - it’s super tight !!

[@danteswagg8796]

Thank you !!! This actually worked! I was going have my transmission dropped and inspected because I thought the slave was failed located inside heat housing

[@seanw8336]

doing this for years with a big syringe. never fails ...you can even do with clutch pedal in downt position and pedal will pop up just before fully bled and you can do by urself dn with no helper

[@dr.growmore4683]

After doing that you could push the slave cylinder in and out and use it like a pump and push any air out of the system, this way shown is a great way to expel most air and quickly fill the system. The reason I say most air,is with those pumps they usually create small bubbles during the squeezing action.

[@makwaphy]

This is brilliant! Much better than pulling the master plunger or using a messy vacuum system! Rocket science!

[@TheRealMrBimmer]

I replaced my E60 545i Primary cylinder, Secondary cylinder and Upgraded to ECS stainless Steel Clutch Line all at once... ( BAD idea as far as "air in the system" goes...)...I Spent hours that day...Went to Autozone to grab an oil can such as this, it was rock solid about 30 minutes later... This was the key, for immediate action and solution. My comment should remove all doubt, if you are in...Thank You for the Video

[@soheilzamani17]

I tried this method on my E90 after removing the Clutch Delay Valve. All I had to do was bleed the clutch. I connected a line from a can to the slave nipple and loosened the bleeder screw. I kept trying to pump brake fluid into the slave and I just couldn’t get any fluid into that slave. Like the slave’s nipple has a check valve behind it or something. The line kept coming of the nipple from the pressure of the pumping from the can. How did you manage to get fluid into that slave?

[@mr.lowery5319]

@@soheilzamani17plz let me know if you figure it out going through the same thing on my VW

[@soheilzamani17]

@@mr.lowery5319 nope never did manage to bleed it with the oil can method. I just pumped the clutch pedal by foot huntil it got firm. It took about 2-3 min of pumping.

[@7777independent7777]

I used this method to bleed my clutch and brakes. Took 20 min. Amazing.

[@thebigworm411]

Thanks for posting this. Was having a real hell of a time getting the clutch on my 2014 tdi to bleed. This bled it in about 30 seconds.

[@bmw-e30]

Had to change the clutch master cylinder in my e30 and tried this method of putting clutch fluid into the system. This method works brillaintly and the only hassle is having to check if the fluid has yet reached the reservoir when on your own. Very helpful video.

[@marcolopez2111]

Did you put some fluid into the reservoir before hand like he did? This didn’t work for me on my e30. It built enough pressure for my clutch pedal to return on it’s own, but not enough pressure to shift gears

[@bmw-e30]

@@marcolopez2111 No, I didnt but worked great and my system was completely drained----sorry, only seeing this now--you may have an issue with your master cylinder.

[@E30Update]

@@marcolopez2111 as @John McShera alluded to, the cylinder twins are typically replaced together. Learned that the hard way on my last E30. Now that I'm having to do it on my current E30, I'm just taking care of them both at once & saving myself the inevitable headache in three months.

[@brknnecks_e3992]

Thank you. Great video. Love the filling the line with fluid rather than bleeding it. Just what I was looking for.

[@blakel3552]

This ended up being the only thing that worked to bleed my e28 535 clutch slave. Thanks a bunch

[@Engineerboy100]

OMG, flipping brilliant!!! I feel like an idiot right now, I have been doing it the wrong way for years. Never again. Man that is an excellent sweet demonstration. Good job man!!! Wow just Wow :o Thank you!!!

[@aDIYCarGuy]

I just rebuilt the slave cylinder from my Porsche....this will be helpful. I bled the clutch system the traditional way in the past and it took forever.

[@stephmac8011]

Thanks for your comments. Both systems are independent and would require separate bleeding in this manner both forcing the air to the shared reservoir, providing the cap is off to allow the hand pump to move the air without building up pressure. The air which always rises up would not flow into the opposing system. it would be expelled through the open reservoir or be trapped inside if the cap was not removed. The bleeder valve screw allows the system to be bled without removing the cap.

[@ericriggins5854]

Thank you so much I have a 944 just replace clutch cylinder. And I can see from the comments this will work plus it make since..

[@jemmace2586]

wow! thank you, i've been having nightmares trying to figure out how to fix my clutch system and this video had given me so many other options, thanks again! :)

[@RicardoMartinez-xo3lk]

Good morning my boss, I have to thank you, after eight days looking for the video that will really help me fix my car (honda civic 2001) you appear and in two hours I am, thank you very much

[@rongray4118]

1973 Unimog 406...going to try this technique for brakes and then the master cylinder. I hope that I have the same success. Thank you for posting!

[@Randomchemist]

You teach this like a Good father will teach a kid that's really ready to learn, I must say I have never been so impressed.. thanks a lot sir

[@Bill-z]

That's the best thing I've ever seen as far as bleeding thank you for the videos very well spoken

[@simonhare7369]

Genius... It also ensures totally fresh (dry) fluid is in the line and not bleeding the 'used' fluid from the reservoir through. Wonder if this same method would work for the braking system (with ABS) too.

[@Passionate747]

Excellent video very well explained . I'm going to change my brake lines on BMW 750LI (2008) I have purchased all required material and tools Thanks for posting the video.

[@fixitluis]

this helped me big time i was stuck for hours with a isuzu amigo and the bleeder points downward i even tried unhooking it and pointing it upwards no pedal pressure, i tried this and problem solved in 5 minutes

[@528im52]

Just verifying, you should have the fluid reservoir cap off in the engine bay, and the clutch pedal should be all the way out. It sounds like the piston in the slave is in the way or there is something keeping pressure on the line.

[@conormcshane4794]

This is the one thing I haven't tried. I hope this works jetta has been sitting for over a month already pulled trans to find nothing wrong

[@aandrum]

Been trying to use this method on my 82 BMW 320i all day. so far no bubbles or extra fluid in the reservoir. New clutch master and slave.. when I try to pump the fluid into the slave the fluid just forces it's way out through the threads of the bleeder and makes a big mess. It seems like what fluid I'm trying to pump in just comes right back out and doesn't even begin to make its way through the system. I made sure I was doing it exactly as described, opening the bleeder with the hose on, pumping the oil squirted, and just making a mess. I would just manually bleed it with the slave out, but then the rod becomes so firm that it won't depress at all to mate back up to the bellhousing. Any help would be awesome! This seems like it works wonders for some people, it's just not for me.

[@oriamzepol]

Andrew Carelock I’m in the same position as you. Did you figure out what was going on?

[@WeAreAllPureLove]

Did you open the cap of the breakfluid reservoir?

[@bmwbryan1]

Clogged hose? Only thing you havent replaced yet.

[@clark5242]

The master was likely closed. Depress the pedal and it is open.

[@Divocwax]

Nice clear video with good sound. Thanks. Sorry if others already asked, but how do you know if a small air pocket continues in the slave cylinder? Also, if the bleed nipple thread is worn, then can there be air sucked into the system as you pump on the oil can? I noted you only have the bleed nipple open a small amount which might offset this "problem".

[@DerGolf2000]

On my Golf 2005 i use a bleed hose hos from the left fwd brake caliper bleed screw to the bleed screw on the clutch slave cylinder. Open both srews, pumpe 10 times the brake pedal, close both bleed screws, voila ...you have a working clutch.

[@ioanvapi]

+DerGolf2000 I like your idea. Does brake and clutch share the same reservoir? Do you fill with brake fluid the bleed hose before mounting?

[@DerGolf2000]

+ioanvapi Yes, the brake and clutch share the same reservoir. I do not fill the bleed hose with brake fluid. During bleeding the clutch, the hose gets filled with brake fluid. When i are finished with bleeding i quick check the clear bleed hose for air bobbles. Usually the a no bobbles. Then i close both bleed screws. And check the brake pedal for firm feeling and the chlutch for proper function, before disconnecting the hose.

[@tendrilz1026]

which caliper is left? this changes depending which way you're facing the car. Passenger or Driver side? Is your reservoir open ? Is your clutch to the floor or in normal position?

[@PGUNNA201]

Good stuff I want to try it but I have a question, being the reservoir is shared by both the clutch and brakes would doing this push air into the brake lines as well? Or will the air go straight up and out?

[@devinwalton408]

if you arent actuating the brakes at the same time it is unlikely the air would find any way into the brake system.

[@davidessien5465]

This is exactly what I was searching for. Thank you so much for the video

[@528im52]

@vr6wings I would go by the manual's instructions, but general rule of thumb is to start bleeding at the furthest point away from the reservoir and work your way closer.

[@theryan96]

Thanks for the video, a great demonstration on how the system works.

[@zoslond]

Awesome video, thank you. I like how informative your explanations about the whole system are.

[@draytonPW]

Would it be equally as effective to pull a vacuum at the reservoir and feed brake fluid into the slave bleeder screw?

[@egonzaavltube]

Does it make a difference if the slave cylinder is compressed on your setup it seems relaxed. Thanks for the video.

[@BJ0BHAX]

awsome video. this saved me so much hassle. Thank you for posting. worked 100% and took 5 mins well done

[@irishRocker1]

If you cant find the leak, could you close the brake fluid cap and see if you pumping in the bottom pushes brake fluid out somewhere? I think my fluid is leaking. The pedal stopped returning to normal position. It was bled and it seemed to be better. But now it seems to be starting again. first time it stuck occasionaly and got worse and it has only stuck a couple times but I expect it to get worse.

[@kyledupont7711]

he's definitely correct about trying to bleed it out the bottom, its just not happening I've tried numerous times on my Audi a6. I'm going to get that pump today so I can do it the right way

[@franciscosotelo3863]

curious, did it work for you?

[@blckmorning]

@528im52 Don't do this if you have ABS. ABS is made to go one way, not to go backwards. It doesn't mean you WILL break it, but there is a possibility it could malfunction.

[@ghaithghaith2985]

Hi... Can we use this way to bleed the brake? Thanks

[@gegervary]

Very professional and descriptive. But would this work with a brake vacuum bleeder kit? I was thinking about “force” bleeding it with a pump from down below at the slave. Thanks !

[@shotkider]

I decided to use this method of bleeding on my saab 93 but it just kept blowing the hose off the bleed nipple. I removed the bleed nipple and found there was a small rubber stopper on the bottom end which acted as a non return valve. I removed this and was then able to reverse bleed. When all the air was through i replaced it and then peddle bleeded to get the air from in the nipple.

[@wedepeixmen]

Im trying this method but the air bubbles still comming out from the oil can along the pipe…

[@serchmarc]

not yet im gonna do it tomorrow and im gonna take the slave cylinder out,and service it.some teflon around the threads of the bleeder HOPE that helps or fix the problem

[@pierrejoubert681]

If you try this, and it does not work, you will have to find out if there is a non-return valve in the system. I used to bleed brake systems like this, by pumping fluid 'backwards', but when I tried it on the cluch of my 1974 VW 412, it did not work! It took a bit of experimentation to figure out that there was a valve that allowed fluid to go to the slave cylinder, but not the other way.

[@r33gts2009]

Can i do this on the bleed nipple of the calipers if i want to replace my brake master cylinder.

[@jochenklabuhn483]

You've forgotten the flexible hose, which can bite by a marten ....after that you can drive for a while (1200 - 1700) km, you'll not have leaking break fluid on the hose, but it is air in the system! Those leaks ar like a Ventil. If you don't have a new hose you can seal it with Tesa Extreme Repair....do it double ...after them you can bleed the self bleeding system by master cylinder ....the air bubbles will lose over the reservoir ...ready after 15 min....no problem😂 I did it last week in a garage in poland, they sayd I' ve a big problem with the clutch, not with my hose. My own repair was ready after 3 hours and I was back on the road again.

[@simonhare7369]

Thanks for the video. This method didn't work for me. 1, the oil can leaked a little from a pressure side O ring when pumping the gun. I was definitely building pressure as the trigger handle of the oil can bent a little. 2, the pedal dropped to the floor during the process of attempting this method, no fluid was pumped up the hose/pipe into the reservoir. What did i do wrong? I did undo the bleed nipple a quarter turn. Had to revert back to pressure bleeding via the reservoir, old cloudy fluid sucked out 1st. 😢

[@ForPropertyInvestors]

Going to try this 2000 Toyota Coaster after putting new clutch in and pumping clutch trying to bled and still my clutch is soft and weak and stays nearly down tothe floor after changing gears, still drivable but doesn’t seem right. Clutch pops up after a short while.

[@SmerFarmor]

Gosh,,, All these things to bleed the clutch!! The correct way to do it is to press the slave cylinder piston all the way in.. Open the bleed screw. Wait for the liquid. Close the bleed screw. Release the piston slowly. Repeat if necessary.Always keep the bleed screw in the highest position and check the fluid level!

[@liamflynn6929]

Should the clutch pedal be pushing in or out? Planning to do this for my 944

[@carltonwizzle1420]

An excellent demonstration 👍

[@zaccstacc4568]

I tried this, but you really need a solid pump. Depending on your transmission and how loose you have the bleeder screw, you really need to push your pump so you're pumping with more PSI against the pressure of the fluid coming out of the valve. My pump's hoses kept popping out and my $10 pump imploded from how hard I tried pumping.

[@RSTDriver7]

@sphinxx187 you should try teflon/thread seal tape. i had the identical problem and solved it that way. best regards, Phil

[@serkanerkan9635]

perfect explanation and description of the system, Thank You

[@syms85]

Who you do this with the cylinder already installed onto the gearbox?

[@devinwalton408]

depends on the vehicle.

[@sonnym9905]

Wow, what a fantastic video. Thank you so much!

[@chrissuich7423]

Excellent technique. So easy. Thanks for sharing!!!

[@karlossmith3714]

If the pedal is to the floor should you prop it up to do this..or doesn’t it matter?

[@gee3883]

Brilliant cheers dude greetings from London.

[@lathamdolden2211]

Love this video such an awesome demonstration

[@Bischlarbo69]

Fantastic video, thank you. I bought your oil pump can as well because of this. Works great

[@mpowerlife]

Any idea on how to bleed a SMG system? E60 M5 Sequential Manual Transmission. Thanks for the videos.

[@corradoQC]

Where did you get your small oil can ? I've been bleeding my clutch with a motive power bleeder forcing air out of the slave, I got no more air bubbles coming out but I believe there could be some air trap somewhere because my clutch engage when the pedal is almost at the top.

[@jeffhildreth9244]

Can you explain why the bleeder is below the intake line ?

[@fabio40]

The flex line? You mean a line specifically for brake/hydraulic fluid, or will just any pvc hose will do?

[@devinwalton408]

honestly, unless you plan on using it multiple times you can use any line that wont immediately disintegrate. Nylon line is fairly cheap and will do the trick.

[@Simonpepsi]

cool video .. but even easier when changing either cylinder is once install let the bleeder open on the slave a minute or two until the brake liquid doesnt drip but flow out then close the bleeded and unse a stick to hold the clutch pedal over night and take off the brake fluid cap off . let gravity work over night :)

[@sepposaari2447]

I have been thinking next.When the engine is idling what is the release bearing doing?Is it stopped or is it running?Is there clearance between the bearing and the clutch pressure plate? Best Regards seppo.

[@donmatthews2635]

I thought there was a little play in the clutch pedal of my m roadster. Now the pedal goes all the way to the floor and I can't drive my car at all until I get a pressure bleeder in the mail. I even tried a large syringe to force fluid through. I can see the reservoir fill up, but the clutch does not engage when I push the pedal. I would advise to only try this if you also have a pressure bleeder as a backup!

[@thrty8street]

Can anyone recommend a good hand bleeder? I’ve searched all over the internet and do not know which one will work.

[@FoueddyBroadcast]

Thank you for your VERRI GOOD METHOD. My old pic-up S15 1990 clutch works verry good now. The transmission shift verry good now. :)

[@billh5781]

Please, what are the symptoms of air in the system? Does the the clutch plate not engage fully, or is the clutch pedal just soft?

[@stefmazurek]

Does this method work on a 2006 VW Jetta TDI? My clutch pedal is sticky and sometimes it won't come back up all the way by itself. I have an oil can, fluid and all the gadgets, but just wondering, if this is going to work on my vehicle. Some people here claim that this method does not work for VW.

[@frankgrassi5364]

Thanks for the video, great information. Maybe you can help me? I started my E30 up after almost a year in covid storage. It’s three hours away. It started up no problem, but no clutch, it wouldn’t go into any gear. I replaced the slave cylinder; and still no clutch? Is it possible that I need to try bleeding it your method? I planned on replacing the clutch master cylinder next. Maybe It’s not necessary? I did see some fluid on the floor of the garage around the area of the master cylinder. Any thoughts? Thanks. Frank

[@kiwiingenuity1677]

Sounds like you lost all your brake fluid... it leaked out of the slave cylinder. You will of had to bleed it after the new parts were installed.

[@wingednomad8423]

an Axe pump Shampoo bottle and hose clamp also works if a guy doesnt have one of those oil cans.

[@pusijuzz7057]

I have a quick question. What position should a clutch pedal be when i do it. And what position should a clutch slave rod should be?

[@DerGolf2000]

+Pusi Juzz Clutch pedal i up position. When you put the pedal down, the fluid can not get through the system.

[@MarkSegree]

If you figured this out please share. I'm in desperate need. Been bleeding for hours and want to try this method but need more info

[@pusijuzz7057]

open brake reservoir, empty it, then go down and open bleed screw, bleed until reservoir fill again, then close bleeder, press clutch like 30-50 times, then close reservoir, go do mad skids) thats how i did it, works...