BMW X1 Battery Replacement in the BOOT (TRUNK)

[@FixItWithJon]

Step by step guide on how to replace the battery in your BMW X1 - this was done on an E84 which covers X1 vehicles made 2009 - 2015 which have the battery in the BOOT (TRUNK). Tools you will need 1/4" socket set: geni.us/GSRN0q7 (optional) DeWalt Impact Driver: geni.us/1dMRxm (optional) Impact driver adapter kit: geni.us/B1cL Silicone body panel removal kit: geni.us/h4Cdl K+DCan cable (be sure to get one with a switch): geni.us/AZPX ISTA: www.bimmerdiagnostics.com/ Disclaimer: If buy from the links above I receive a small commission which helps fund the channel. If this helps you, please consider liking and subscribing. Any questions or feedback - please leave below!

[@SRK-01]

Excellent demonstration and explanation . I wonder could you please add how to know the battery needs replacement? I have the same model X20D Sports and noticed the keyless entry is not working and the Door Lock Unlock with the remote control also not working, does that mean I need to replace the main battery ? I suppose the remote control of the X20d Sports has a rechargeable battery. Thanks

[@FixItWithJon]

Hiya, sounds like the battery in your key needs changing .. Generally if a battery is going the symptoms will be car struggling to turn over & only just making it. If you have a multimeter - check the battery voltage with the engine OFF - if the voltage is below 12.4V then chances are the battery is on its way out.. Hope that helps?

[@gloversunited8175]

Did the old replaced battery have vent holes in both the positive and negative side of it? What about the non-BMW replacement, vent holes on both sides?

[@FixItWithJon]

@gloversunited8175 Thanks for your comment, that's a really good point - I meant to include in the video and totally forgot in the end.. The old battery definitely did have a vent hole on one side, I'm not sure if it had one on the other side. The new battery did have a plastic bung on each side - I removed the bung on the side the I wanted. It was tough - I had to use.a large pair of wire cutters balanced carefully to prise it out, but it did work. Tbh modern batteries are sealed anyhow - I'm not sure the vent hole is really needed, but better safe than sorry.. Hope that helps?

[@ultiti5661]

Hello, is it possible that by disconnecting the positive first some control unit goes haywire?

[@samhicks97]

Intresting, usually an Auto-start/stop equipped car would have 1 main battery and another auxiliary battery. Seems like this simplifies things if it's just the single AGM battery.

[@FixItWithJon]

Yep - my Octavia is the same -just 1 AGM battery. Neither car is ‘mild hybrid’ though - think that might be what you’re thinking of?

[@samhicks97]

@FixItWithJon from my knowledge, There are some certain Auto-start/stop cars that have an auxiliary battery, Mild hybrid or not. I'm just guessing the cars that have an auxiliary battery are equipped with high AMP draw accessories. Regardless of the battery count, thank God I have only a single battery!

[@SNE2828]

Do you have to let the computer know if you charge the battery ? Like if you just take the battery off and charge it over night if its flat and put it back on ? Cheers 🙌🏻

[@FixItWithJon]

Hiya, no if you are replacing the exact same battery which will have the same age characteristics as before it was removed then you do not have to attach the computer to tell the car. It’s only if you put a new battery on of the same or different type you need to tell the car. Hope that makes sense?

[@SNE2828]

@@FixItWithJon hey there jon, thanks alot that does make more sense 🙌🏻 one more question if I have a misfire on cylinder 2 and my vehicle was dead for a while during the time I was changing the sparkplug would the reason to the misfire still happening and the check engine light still on be because my battery was dead dead and I only used a jump starter machine to start my engine And not enough voltage for the computers or no ? I hope that makes sense 🤦🏻 cheers Jon thank you

[@FixItWithJon]

@@SNE2828 Cool :-) No - changing the battery will not affect the misfire in any way. There's only 4 things that can affect the misfire: compression, timing, spark, fuel (assuming you're not on a diesel engine). I would suggest: do a compression test 1st, you can get the tester kits quite cheaply on Amazon. if you get good compression, then that tells you that the compression and timing are ok - that's the most important bit. Then you can investigate injector or spark issue. Most likely is a duff spark plug, but could quite easily be a valve issue - so well worth checking the compression :-) Hope that makes sense? sense?.

[@SNE2828]

@@FixItWithJon hey Jon thanks for the reply, I'll get that tester kit first and see what happens from there thanks heaps Jon 🙌🏻

[@ozy_man_dias9409]

@fixitwithjon do I need ISTA-D or ISTA-P when telling the car about the new battery install? Do you have a source for the software?

[@FixItWithJon]

Hi @ozy_man_dias9409 yep - you need Ista D (the D stands for Diagnostic ). You don't need Ista P (the P stands for programming - it's for changing options in the modules like adding heated seats etc). There are always downloads for sale on eBay or you can go to Bimmertools (google them it comes straight up). There used to be free downloads, but the all seem to have dried up now because of the bandwidth needed. Hope that helps? Good luck with your job! Let me know how you get on :-)

[@lingling-iy6cj]

Do you need reset computer after install new battery?

[@FixItWithJon]

@lingling-iy6cj yes - good spot. I'll upload a video this week on how to do that 🙂

[@SRK-01]

Thanks but I found the issue with the remote control batteries and have fixed by replacing in both.

[@FixItWithJon]

@SRK-01 Glad you got sorted :-)

[@xMeta4x]

You installed a 115ah battery (@5.05) in exchange for an 80ah battery. You didn't code the replacement correctly. It's also AGM, which is isn't clear the original battery was.

[@FixItWithJon]

Yes - you're absolutely right - I was wondering if anyone would notice lol. I did actually go back and correctly register it - but that was after the video was published on KZbin. I appreciate your commenting - I'll update the description. N.b. the original was an AGM

[@xMeta4x]

@@FixItWithJonit's a bit silly IMOH. Surely a car could detect things like this these days. Simply lithium ion chargers can, for example. Another trick to get you down to the dealer...

[@gwynsea8162]

A system that determines how much charge to deliver to the battery dependent on *age* sounds anything but an intelligent battery system! One would presume that it would determine how much charge it requires based on current state of charge / discharge. Seems an odd idea that you use age in some way as surely there isn't going to be a linear change in the battery characteristics. A car that is driven every day in stop-start traffic versus a car driven a couple of times a week on short journeys etc or a car that lives in the tropics versus one in the Hebrides.

[@FixItWithJon]

@gwynsea8162 I agree with you - that age should not be a factor. A good charging circuit should be able to characterise a battery based on the charging current for a given charging voltage. The internal resistance of the battery is ultimately a sign of it's health. However, the car needs to know what *type* of battery is fitted. Without that information, it's totally in the dark about what characteristics to expect. E.g. a Li-ion battery will respond totally differently to a lead acid and to an AGM. If the same type and capacity of battery is fitted, then yes, the car should be able to re-calibrate it's charge rate - triggered by the fact that the battery power has been removed.

[@cameronswainson8280]

[@Alycanj]

car so smart it can't tell a new battery is in it, sounds like a rip-off

[@FixItWithJon]

@Alycanj To be fair it's down to physics and chemistry - there's no way of the car knowing what type of battery has been fitted. The only way this would be possible would be if the battery manufacturers had to fit an 'identifier' module which could communicate with all cars.. Standardisation is the only way that would happen and there's just not the drive in the industry to make that happen unfortunately. Hope that makes sense? Thanks for the comment :-)