BMW Z4 E85 ABS DSC pump 5DF0 5DF1codes fault repair.

Consider to support my channel and all the hard work put into it at / lmautorepairs
Thank you
Hi
In this video I take you through the repair of the ABS and DSC pump of a 2007 BMW Z4.
In this case the was a motor failure, watch the video to see what the problem was.
Hope you enjoy the video.
Thank you for watching!

[@luyanoH]

Althou you dont say to hit the pump a couple of times, after watching your video, that is the conclusion i came out with. I went out with a hammer and fix the ABS pump on my car (2007 335i coupe). Thank you !!!!!!

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Good! Thank you for watching and for your comment!

[@brandonbennett3808]

just tap on my abs motor and lights went out as well

[@jamwatn]

So I believe I have finally solved the problem with thanks to this video! It turned out to be a lazy motor. I took the motor off, bench tested it, however despite cleaning it and tweaking it as best I could, it was useless. - it bench tested OK and spun fine, but when attached to the car and activated in INPA, it didn't have the power to do continuous work (I can only guess the ECU is clever and measures resistance or something in the motor to detect load). In the end, I purchased an ABS unit for £24/$31 from a 2016 Ford Focus Diesel!! The key was the part number of the MOTOR making it dead cheap which was 10.0212 which I searched on eBay. I hacked off the metal stubs using a mini hacksaw and removed the good motor from the metal pump on the unit. I was lucky that someone had already 'refurbished' the ABS unit from my car and they had fashioned a bracket of sorts and drilled threads. I reattached it to the car and was able to perform full bleeding operations without the motor grinding to a halt. I cant thank the maker of this video enough, thankyou!

[@LMAutoRepairs]

That's great! Thanks for the feedback! 👍👍👍

[@toomaslillsaar7723]

In my car the motor has five extra numbers in the end 10.0212-0081.4. If I buy another motor should the five last digits be the same?

[@adeliocelli281]

This motor comes apart easily. Look carefully at the video. You will see that the casing indents only prevent radial motion, not axial. Grab the shaft in the chuck of a portable drill, put your feet on the casing and pull straight up. Do not turn on the drill. I did and broke of the plastic catches, which do not appear to do much anyway. You can see one is broken in the video. The little resistance you feel is from the permanent magnets being attracted to the steel rotor. If you want to get a feel of it first, remove the rubber ring and pry with a screwdriver. You will feel the springiness of the magnetic pull. I reassembled by wrapping a hose clamp around the whole thing. This can put a good deal of inward force on the motor casing but really only a small amount is required because the axial thrust is minimal. One of the brushes was stuck, I freed it but it never really made good contact with the commutator. I took the system apart twice but was unable to fix the problem. If I do it again I will have to take some drastic measure like try and pull the brush out somehow. Finally, thank you very much for this excellent video.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Thank you for watching and for your comment! 👍👍👍

[@mohuckmedshishkeblob1712]

Good clear no BS Video, keep up the good work mate. Cars are so complex now, years ago you could fix most problems with a Shifter and a Screwdriver, not anymore.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Not anymore indeed...😊 Thank you for watching and for your comment!

[@wojciechdraczynski1221]

Finally great solution! What kind of lubricant did you use?

[@boucaflou]

Bonjour, Merci pour ce que vous avez fait, cela a contribué à la réussite de la réparation de l'ABS de ma GSA de 2007 (charbon bloqué également)

[@GroHouse]

Thanks for posting this video - I recently got the dreaded 5DFO & 5DF1 codes and couldn't believe the cost to replace the pump. After reading that the brushes could be the cause (i.e. frequently get stuck) I decided to gently tap the pump housing with a small hammer. To my surprise the errors went away after days being on, time will tell if it comes back. If the codes do come back I have your helpful video to try and diagnose it further. Question: What process did you use to bleed the brakes? Was there anything special you needed to do considering the ABS module was removed?

[@shayne1289]

Great video - very clear and easy to follow. Thanks very much, most helpful.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Shayne Hi Thank you for watching and for your comment!

[@WaltL]

Unfortunately, ou skipped the 3 most important parts: 1) Removing the motor housing, 2) putting the housing back on and 3) securing the motor to the pump. Otherwise, great video...

[@Br0k3nLiNk]

If you cant work out how to get the housing off after seeing the tabs, or putting it back on, then its not for you.

[@WaltL]

Given that I'm not the only one, I guess it's not for a lot of us...

[@AutoOtwieracz]

U R GREAT GUY, I LIKE YOUR CHANNEL, a lot of knowladge which you give us THANK YOU

[@LMAutoRepairs]

De Ce Thank you!

[@brandonbennett3808]

thanks so much just went and tapped on my abs motor and lights went out ml430 wow

[@Tridentfire100]

Brilliant going to give it a go tomorrow on a z4 with the exact same codes

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Good luck.. any questions do not hesitate...

[@wheelerdealer8267]

One of the best videos!

[@LMAutoRepairs]

😊 Thank you!

[@joaquinruiz-qk3nh]

Excellent !!!!!! Question: my 2008 Z M has 75;000 miles, but was flooded 6 years ago. When I bought it it had these warning lights, I hit The motor a few times and so far is working (one day ago) will this continue? And what is the average mileage for this to start happening in this cars? Thanks again for the video

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Not sure about the lasting of these before they give issues... I have seen them failing at different stages... 👍👍👍

[@mrgrumpy5116]

fantastic, .. I'm not saying ABS is no good but there are still many problems with a lot of systems, you would think that by now they would outlast the vehicle. It shouldn't be difficult to re-stake the motor, or use a simple sprag clip to hold it in place. They intend that you don't fix the motor.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Absolutely... They make stuff to not be repaired indeed.... Thank you for watching and for your comment! 👍👍👍

[@deemdoubleu]

Based on what you found it doesn't seem such a bad idea to give the pump a whack to free the bushes although they would probably still need lubricating for a more longer term fix.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

deemdoubleu Agree... Thank you for watching and for your comment...

[@pikinpau31]

@@LMAutoRepairs What would I use as a lubricant? i may try that myself. the mechanic told me that it was the hydraulic pump.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

@@pikinpau31 Hi I have used a silicone based grease, but there is other options available... Thank you for watching and for your comment!

[@petef7323]

Many thanks, keep up the good work! Your videos are excellent.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Pete F Thank you!

[@Daves_Life_]

great video think i have this problem, only had the car 3 days. think i might have a go at doing it myself

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Good luck... any questions do not hesitate...

[@zakariaassadini9230]

Good video professional as always

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Thanks...

[@hagrdan]

Fantastic fix! I also liked the Autel diagnostic unit--impressive. Will that unit also cycle the ABS pump to help bleed?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

dangdude Not the DS708... the one I have now, the MaxiSys, I haven't tried it yet... sorry got being more helpful...

[@hazlo99]

I have the MK808 and it has the bleed function.

[@legeantdavid1937]

Thanks for the video I suspected my GS BMW having the same problem

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Legeant David Thank you for watching!

[@hendrylopez5355]

same happened to me on my GS bikes and the same repairs applies as I did it

[@ryanw.f.faught6293]

Simple question, how do you remove the black metal covering? I see four tabs, however cannot compress them

[@gmail5764]

Great Job, thank you very much from France.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

😊 Thanks! 👍👍👍

[@gmail5764]

@@LMAutoRepairs There is a burn on my pump motor, have you seen this before ?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

I have... All depends how they fail... You can buy a replacement motor... If everything else is good with the unit...

[@gmail5764]

@@LMAutoRepairs I will do like you and take the motor apart to test it and change it to a second-hand motor. Thanks to you

[@LMAutoRepairs]

👍👍👍

[@olutayooyawale9724]

Lovely video, wish i saw this before buying another pump. Do you know what error code 5E38 mean and how to fix it?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

olutayo oyawale Hi Thank points to be a faulty/dirty sensor...

[@mrgrumpy5116]

rotation rate sensor, wheel sensor .. or reluctor ring, bad connection, cable, www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1792569-Code-5E38-Rotation-Rate-Sensor

[@bosssam1975]

Thank you for this video. You contribute for many people for them success. But one question i've opened e93 dsc pump i lubricate it but motor can't turn very well like yours, what lubricate product have you used and can i change pump motor with any other dsc module, please?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Hi You can replace the motor... no problem. Just make sure that the brushes are good. Thank you for watching!

[@bosssam1975]

Thank you

[@bassmaniak1]

Thank you for watching

[@andyking1171]

interesting video and informative, but i had an issue with my brakes which wouldnt bleed so changed the dsc pump, and still i have an issue with no fluid coming through the front brakes, i noticed you said there were pressure sensors in the pump, would these pressure sensors be preventing fluid coming through after i changed my hoses, ive heard allot about a proportional valve but i cannot find one and presuming these switches are in the actual dsc, i would be grateful for any advice and help as iv'e been without a car now for over a week with non bleeding issue, great video.👍👍

[@LMAutoRepairs]

If you replaced the pump and still same issue, you must have a blockage somewhere... The unit does not restrict the fluid in any way, unless is under activation... 👍👍👍

[@andyking1171]

@@LMAutoRepairs no blockage i just changed the master cylinder and hey presto job done, hope this helps someone out there who cannot bleed either the front or rear brakes what so ever and has a very spongy pedal don't forget to bench bleed the master cylinder, this can be done on the vehicle i went without a car for over a week so you dont have too 🤦just read this!!🍻

[@DG-od4si]

nice video, thanks

[@LMAutoRepairs]

😊 Thanks! 👍👍👍

[@chrissalmon7153]

You are a hero. Im gonna try this tomorrow! What country are you in?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Chris Yeah Lol Hope it works for you... UK Thank you for watching!

[@chrissalmon7153]

LM Auto Repairs where in the UK? Im from Warwick. Will bring it to you when i break it hahahahaha

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Chris Yeah Lol... I am just about hour and half away from you... Peterborough.

[@chrissalmon7153]

Your video is perfect. Only thing i would add is... there are only two clips holding the motor in. I got a real big drill bit and drilled one side and it came out easy. You can feel where the clips are by gently prizing it with a screwdriver. Mine was exactly like yours. I am strugling to find a way to resecure the motor on the block though... thats my job for today

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Yes, this was the first time I have done it... today I would have done slightly different... Thank you!

[@alphabetty9352]

Hi i have a vectra c and the abs activates for five minutes when driving off then abs light stays on and pump goes quiet. I have replaced all wheel speed sensors and the only code coming back is c0274......do i need to replace the abs unit or have you had this before. Cheers

[@stevemartin7321]

NZ Steve likes your work

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Steve Martin Thank you!

[@ArnoldJonker]

Brilliant video. My E91 has the same fault code 5DF0 and 5DF1. Allthough i'm not a mecanic this seems not to hard. I'll give it a try with some help of a friend

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Arnold Jonker No worries... feel free to ask whatever...

[@ArnoldJonker]

I have seen another video with a guy just hitting the electric motor with the back of a screwdriver. I tried, it worked :). Quick fix but temporary

[@MrMajinHawk]

Arnold Jonker did the codes come back on?

[@ArnoldJonker]

DrJiji Hi, two weeks ago I applied your fix. The errorcode is gone! Thanks for saving me a lot of money

[@ArnoldJonker]

Unfortunally the error occuried again. 5DF0. Hitting the pump with a screwdriver works but for only one week or so. Maybe I should open the electric motor again and give it a proper clean. Or maybe some new brushes if possible.

[@isrealperez9069]

I got two things to ask you number one did you have to reprogram your device when you place it back in the car you know your pump and my other question is I have a code that came up for my abs and it was 77 pressure sensor would that be just a pressure sensor screw in adapter or would that be the pump on the driver side or the pump on the passenger side

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Hi No reprogramming if the unit is the same... On this ones, I can't remember now if the pressure sensor is external or internal on the unit... If is external, you can obviously replace it... internal sensors, are a bit more tricky... 👍👍👍

[@isrealperez9069]

@@LMAutoRepairs on my car I have something called a stabilizing controlled DSC pump and that's located on the driver side and on my and on my passenger side it's the one with the modulator just like the one that you took apart I guess it's called a ABS pump break ECU controller DSC Hydro block unit when I pressed on the brake it felt it kind of hard instead of the way it's normally is then my code came up as 77 BMW for pressure sensor so I don't know which side is that on and something else called and A5

[@firasalwakeel5365]

did you have to bleed the brake fluids? or just installed back on? Thanks

[@LMAutoRepairs]

You need to bleed if you disconnect the hydraulics... Thank you for watching!

[@firasalwakeel5365]

LM Auto Repairs thank you ur replay, how is it holding up? What kind of epoxy u used to stick it together? Brilliant job by the way.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

@@firasalwakeel5365 The car was not mine... but never came back... so, I guess worked just fine...

[@benbrown9053]

No u don't have to.. there's a small round Nutt that stops from bleeding out.. just becarful when you pull out or you'll Nutt

[@benbrown9053]

@@firasalwakeel5365 I used silicone gasket maker... it doesn't have to stick to the metals... once u bolt it back on and the gasket dries it's good enough to keep anything out. The original is silicone.

[@SmartHomeTechHub]

Great work. In my Peugeot 307 the Abs motor when tested on 12v battery it work but when connected to main Abs connector and start the engine the Abs motor don't work. Please I need advice

[@LMAutoRepairs]

What faults do you have? Thank you for watching!

[@AutoOtwieracz]

I repaird that foult without disasembling anythink from car, i just hit few times in motor to unlock brushes in motor, and after 3months still work. After that i run for few seconds abs motor with ds708

[@LMAutoRepairs]

De Ce Hi That can also work... but not always... Sometimes it lasts for months, sometimes for a few days... This one, which I did this way, was done nearly 2 years ago, and still good... Thank you for watching watching and for your comment!

[@mrpistonrecaro6483]

LM Auto Repairs did the same I just tapped on it. Hopefully stays good. If it comes back I’ll wack it a few more times lol. Same issue on Mitsubishi lancers. They use the same pump

[@WEIMYBIMMER]

very nice, so you didnt use any new parts?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Hi! No... no new parts...

[@tjdesai1915]

Quick question - Z4 gives intermittent similar light....dealer suggesting replacing DSC Hydraulic Unit. Is there a way to repair and fix instead of expensive replace?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Depends on the issue... I showed here how to get around it... if the issue is the motor... Thank you for watching!

[@Photonees]

Hi, not sure you are still active. Got it revised, installed the pump again an now I have a break fluid leak. Not at any line continue but somewhere else. Have not been able to remove the pump. Sunday I will remove it. But do you know perhaps what could cause a leak? I see at the magnets, there are rubbers? Could they leak?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

No fluid should pass to the motor side... The fluid is contained inside the modulator (aluminum block)... If you have fluid on the motor side, something has definitely failed... 👍👍👍

[@Photonees]

@@LMAutoRepairs I'll have a look at it on Sunday. It only started to leak I think, after the revision. I'll try to open it Sunday. Tux for the update. I hope a few days with oil can't hurt haha. The motor still spins

[@Photonees]

@@LMAutoRepairs Well, I'm thinking that is the case. I had the ABS problem for about 2 years, so the pump hasnt spun for all that time, might be that because of that a seal might have gone bad and now it leaks to the motor side. I think now that's 99% the case. Sunday ill take the gamble, but thinking to make a appointed to get it fixed already. Going to cost A LOT and dont want to deal with a 2nd hand pump, they are also hard to find now I seems...

[@LMAutoRepairs]

😊 Hope you get it fixed... 👍👍👍

[@fastdriveng1678]

Great video, but how did you identify the positive and negative terminal? Talking about the part when you tested to see if the motor worked.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Hi The motor will run either way... Thank you for watching!

[@fastdriveng1678]

Thank you for the quick response, much appreciated. Keep up the great content!

[@LMAutoRepairs]

No worries! Here to help!

[@fastdriveng1678]

LM Auto Repairs By the way, is it possible to check if the bottom electronic part is working? Like to check if it sends out voltage?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

FastDriveNG With the diagnostic tool you should be able to do that...

[@elvinnovruzov5775]

Do i need to bleed the brakes if i remove the pump itself and ECU part without opening that metal part off the car?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Elvin Novruzov Hi Of course not... if you don't open the hydraulics there is no need to bleed them... Thank you for watching!

[@elvinnovruzov5775]

i thought the part that pump make spin can leak fluid or let air in i'll remove pump to get the ECU part as those are screwed together and hopefully fix 5DF5 internal error great video btw

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Elvin Novruzov Once you remove it you will see how it is and why will not leak... 👍

[@dstar706]

Nice im on my way to try this😣 wish me luck

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Good luck! 🤞 That failing, just replace it with a known good one...😉 Thank you for watching and for your comment!

[@bmw0208]

how did you open the motor casing? just prying etc..

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Yes... Thank you for watching!

[@MrMajinHawk]

Hello, my dsc pump ist working fine when i test it but when i apply it to the car it doesn‘t work help?

[@toonames]

I have the same freaking problem outside perfect but in the car immediately the code "pump motor"

[@shakespear90]

Just one quick question. I was wondering if is possible that an ABS pump sends fluid to brakes without user pushing brakr pedal (assuming that ABS ECU actuates motor in apply direction) ?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Marcus Van Sciver Hi Not really... unless you have one of those brake assist systems... Thank you for watching!

[@petef7323]

Hi, great video! If you can't repair your original pump I've been told it is not possible to put a 2nd hand/remanufactured pump on another z series or 6 cylinder bmw, as these have been programmed to the original car, is this correct? or can they be reprogrammed?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Pete F Hi They can be reprogrammed/coded. Similar procedure to the one below... kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z5XRZZZpnJuXqaM

[@GowLV]

Do you still fix them? Thanks.

[@sebastienguissard9532]

Hello Do you know dimensions of the carbon brush ?thanks 👌

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Can't remember know... sorry .. But you can easily measure them once the old ones are out... 👍👍👍👍

[@Itzpugs]

subscribed. thanks for the video

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Dj Tahp Hi Thank you for watching, for your comment and subscription. Much appreciated!

[@grahamclayclay360]

that's what I thought I cleared them to get 5df5. & 17fe so do u think its the DSC unit that's had it thanks

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Graham Clay Clay The code you are getting (5df5) is for an internal fault in the module... That can be many things... from a faulty component to a corrupted software... If you have the tools and know how to, try to update the module with winfkp... Otherwise try the dealer to do a full update to the car... Although I believe that ISTA-P will refuse to update with that type of fault present... Hope that helps...

[@soptea]

Well done !

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Thanks...

[@sheldonaberman3511]

my 2007 z4m bmw lights went off by tapping the pump but came back on when the traction was activated while driving

[@grahamclayclay360]

can pull the mk60 apart any help be good as the new used pump I cant calibrate the steering with inpa have very little software so in hope I could solder the old pump up if I had an idea how it came apart would be most helpful thanks u

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Graham Clay Clay Hi From my understanding it seems that you could swap the whole mechanical side of the ABS module and leave the electronics...

[@malcolmmathers2690]

how did you get motor apart back together be nice to know

[@LMAutoRepairs]

I thought I explained that in the video... 🤔

[@cobail1]

Excellent work. I have the same codes on my E93. It's a 2007 so it is the model year of the faulty motor brushes. I have seen 2nd hand modules for around £90, could I just put the pump/motor assembly onto my module? I'm thinking if I damage mine! I can do the tapping of the motor body trick but it only lasts a couple of days or bizarrely until it rains???? so it must be my pump, right? Also, I see the motor cover has 4 small slots which I guess is where the motor clips into the body. Would it be possible to force those clips in and remove the motor? Thanks in advance. Sorry for all the questions.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Thank you for watching! You can indeed replace the motor assembly leaving the original electronic side of the module... Some modules the motor is bolted in place, and easy to replace... in this one is a bit more tricky, it might be possible the way you are saying...

[@cobail1]

I'm thinking that I could just hammer the crimped parts back into place and remove the motor unit. Then try and push the plastic retainers back in the slots to free the motor from the cap. Do you think that is possible or will i have to drill them out like you have. Thanks for the swift reply.

[@cobail1]

Oh and I would not need to re-program the module???

[@LMAutoRepairs]

lee Grieveson Not In that case... only if you change the electronic side... If you change only the aluminium block with the motor there is no programming required...

[@cobail1]

Thanks once again, you are a star!

[@grahamclayclay360]

OK so to do that is there somewhere u take it apart I can see 2 screw but can't get at them can u confirm I just pop the top off or is that wrong thanks

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Graham Clay Clay Minute 2 on this video....

[@iresurrectrepairs9967]

Does the polarity matter when supplying 12v dc?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Not really... 👍👍👍

[@iresurrectrepairs9967]

@@LMAutoRepairs I ordered two salvage motors which were used but both of them does not spin. It tries to spin but does not even when the polarities are reversed.. I checked if the brushes were stuck and they aren't. So confused..

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Not sure... the motor should run in both directions, when polarity is reversed...

[@geoffreyrawlings9736]

Brilliant more money saved.when you bled the brakes is just normal procedure ie no special tools.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Geoffrey Rawlings Hi Just normal bleeding... Thank you for watching!

[@dineshkarki8322]

Siri have a bmw 2012 x3 f25 x20 drive fault are D02C67 D02D44 inside Airbag system I don't have repair manual I couldn't solve please help me

[@spychu14]

Hammer should do the trick in this case :)

[@LMAutoRepairs]

😂😂😂😋 Indeed... Thank you for watching!

[@FilipVojtisek]

Can I ask you what you have used to seal the motor. Silver coating visible on 12:05... Mine is leaking after repair.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Hi What you mean leaking? Should be no oil on the motor side... if there is, you either have the pipes leaking above or something else is wrong... Thank you for watching!

[@a.galache8647]

i have this problem in a mitsubishi lancer... but not always... sometimes yes and sometimes no...

[@noahbone4054]

glad to know im not the only one :/ Did you try doing this and did it work?

[@MANOWAR1917]

Is there a way to remove the hydraulic solenoids and cleaning them? I change the rear brakes on my car and force dirty brake fluid back into the solenoid now I do not have back brakes.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Hi Have you tried to just purge the system?

[@MANOWAR1917]

I disconnected the rear brake lines to the brake module and to the rear calipers and blow out the lines (there was a lot of dirty in there) red oil and brake fluid came out. then I service the reservoir and tried to pump the brake pressure up manual but it is taking forever.

[@MANOWAR1917]

I will have to buy a pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes. Would I be able to open the module then remove and clean the rear brakes valves?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

@@MANOWAR1917 Not really... they are not serviceable...

[@ilogikmr2]

Fancy fixing mine for me :)

[@mrgrumpy5116]

Hi Louis, from the module to the pump I expected to see 12v but I see 7.4v when I turn on the ignition ? .. it works, what am I missing?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

I guess your are referring to the possible check the module does to the motor? If you actuate the motor, does it runs on those 7.5v?

[@mrgrumpy5116]

@@LMAutoRepairs thanks for your reply .. I don't hear the motor run when I switch on the ignition but the fuel pump is running, I assume it doesn't run on 7.5v, it runs fine on 12v I don't have a scanner /analyser so I can't activate it through the port, the ABS light isn't on and no codes, from what you have said I must think that the 7.4v I measured was the communication voltage from the module to the motor.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

@@mrgrumpy5116 That's what i was trying to get at... 👍👍👍

[@mrgrumpy5116]

@@LMAutoRepairs this is an occasional fault over the last two years, code 1380 Power, from when I was using PP2000, if it happens I check for power and ground, remove the module and power the motor, check the connector, find nothing put it back together drive 20 metres and the light is off, 2 things I don't know, is there an intermittent in the module or a coked contact in the relay, I think I look for the relay and test it next, check the contacts, interesting, difficult to find when it's not there .. have a nice day.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

@@mrgrumpy5116 Intermittent faults are always a PITA... But if the car is yours, you can always see if there is a pattern to it... 🤞🤞🤞

[@jamwatn]

Hey I've got the same problem but I stripped the unit down and the pump runs just fine on a power supply. Any ideas of what my fault might be? I thought the motor might be lazy but it is impossible to tell.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

It could be that you have disturbed something during the striping process, which made it to start to work... if you know what I mean... just clean everything, put it all back together and go from there... Hope that helps. Thank you for watching!

[@jamwatn]

LM Auto Repairs that's a good point. I might have released a brush from it's stuck position or a bit of dirt. Is the motor easy to open? You didn't cover that in the video.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

@@jamwatn No I did not... it was a bit tricky... I confess... I might show that next time I have a similar problem...

[@jamwatn]

@@LMAutoRepairs So I finally got the pump back on the car and used INPA to Activate the ABS pump. Seemed to work ok for a few activations, but eventually the pump stops activating and won't do it anymore until you give the pump a good tap and reset the ignition. Works again for 5 or 6 activations and then stops. Is my motor no good? I tried the bleeding functions with the bleed screw closed and it seems to be able to do some rather powerful strokes when eventually it runs out of puff (trying to compress a fluid I imagine).

[@LMAutoRepairs]

It can be that the motor is on its way out... How was the motor brushes? Were they good?

[@austinfostermusic]

Could you "bench test" the pump while on the car still? I can get at the electronic module and separate as you did at 2:09 while still on the car. With all the hydraulic lines still connected, can I test the pump as you showed?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

austinfostermusic I would guess you can... but is quite tight to work on it while in the car... But you can try...

[@austinfostermusic]

Thanks for the immediate reply :) I might not have access you're right. I'm trying to think of a way of testing before going down the route of draining the brake fluid and having to bleed after. At the moment I have the ABS, handbrake and DSC light orange. My fault code reader has given the same codes as you. I can''t hear the pump whirr when I put the ignition on, but I''ll test it on the road again. If it is just the module, I can take off and get repaired without removing any of the hydraulic lines. Is there anything else you could suggest? Also, how did you reattach the pump - did you engineer a new bracket?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

austinfostermusic Hi If you have access to a diagnostics machine you can actuate the pump, if doesn't run you probably found your problem. I know I haven't made it very clear, but towards to the end of the video I explain how I secured the motor back, using some bolts... Hope you manage to get yours done...

[@austinfostermusic]

Thank you. I have a code reader, and I'm going to try using INPA on it. Do you know which program or how to actuate the pump with a program? As for the motor, can you secure it by using a punch? I can't picture how you managed to secure it with bolts. Thanks for all your help!

[@LMAutoRepairs]

austinfostermusic Hi INPA should be able to actuate the pump... When you remove the motor try to free up the "pegs" on one of the sides only... so you can then just slide them back in... On one of the sides there is some extra thick aluminium, which you can drill, tap and use a bolt... but be careful, do not drill to deep... on the bolts I used a washer that I have filled to correct shape in order to sit down and secure the motor... I do not know if all this makes sense, I hope it does... Unfortunately at the time I probably did not gave enough importance to the part of securing the motor... Once you remove it and start to work on it, I am sure you will figure out what I mean... Hope that helps...

[@armpitdew]

When you lubed the brushes in their cages, what did you use?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

armpitdew Hi A silicone based grease, which I use to lubricate electric components...

[@Tontzaaah]

How did you secure the motor back to the pump assembly? Im gonna do this in the upcoming weekend and see if i can clear the codes too. The whack method works for sometime so i assume the coals are stuck in the motor

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Was not easy... some drilling, tapping and small bolts... Thank you for watching!

[@Tontzaaah]

Okay, thank you that will help alot, do you remember the bolt size? And what grease you used to lubricate coals?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

@@Tontzaaah The bolts forget about it... At this time I was not too much into details... lol The grease, I used a silicone based one... if I recall correctly...

[@gregoryguerrier1807]

How did you manage to open the motor

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Gregory Guerrier Hi There is really no correct way to open it... they are not designed to be opened once closed, so you need to force it in order to snap the inner tabs that secure it all together... Hope that makes sense...

[@gregoryguerrier1807]

Thanks

[@alanblack1333]

wot does the pump do i.e wot does it pump

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Hi Yes... builds pressure to actuate the brakes... when the abs or dsc is activated... Thank you for watching and for your comment!

[@iwillnoteatzebugs]

What did you use to clean brushes?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Isopropyl alcohol... 👍👍👍

[@iwillnoteatzebugs]

@@LMAutoRepairs and then you lubricate with silicon grease?

[@WEIMYBIMMER]

how much you charge for that one?

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Can't really remember.... but not a lot...

[@mattybt400]

Not showing us how to get the pump off and how to get it back on again means this video is not what it could have been.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Matty Bt Well that is basics... undo bolts and remove plugs... With that said, more and more I am trying to cover more basic stuff on my latest videos... Although I understand will never be able to cover every single detail... What I mean is, if someone is not capable of removing this pump, shouldn't not even try to do what I do in the videos... But will take your advise to future video... Thank you for watching and for your comment!

[@mattybt400]

lmsvvavr I meant removing the pump from the module unit, not removing the unit from the car. Then how you put it back together again, before you put it back on the car.

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Matty Bt OK... Sorry for the misunderstanding... but, I actually explain quite well how to remove the motor... To secure it back on, although I do not show it, e explain how I did it... I understand now that was not enough...

[@mrgrumpy5116]

I think you would like to see these, same problem and repair kit on ebay. abs info kit. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133019812807 kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6arnGlqr7ebh8U you can also use 2mm roll pins sideways over the motor flanges to hold them down tight. when putting power into the valve body how do you know which is +/-

[@soldiers-nf2ps]

You must be rich by now

[@LMAutoRepairs]

🤔 I wish! Thank you for watching!

[@WEIMYBIMMER]

look at my video so you see what happen to me!!

[@gabeescobar167]

Great video, does the pump need to bled also? I think it's called a "dealer bleed" and it's done with INPA software or a scanner tool like u have

[@LMAutoRepairs]

Gabe Escobar Hi On this one a normal bleeding works fine...