Boat Anchoring Made Simple [REALLY!] | BoatUS

Captain Eric Sorensen of Sorensen's Guide shows you how to make boat anchoring simple. You'll learn how to drop anchor for a nice afternoon on the water in calm conditions. Eric explains how much line to let out, how to tie off, how to back down to set the anchor, and boat anchoring tips and anchoring techniques. He then shows you how to weigh anchor (or retrieve anchor) by using the engines to break it free of the bottom and bring it the rest of the way in using the windlass. Learn more about anchors and anchoring at www.boatus.com/expert-advice/...
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[@Mr5150Sarge]

This is the most informative anchor set/recover video I've ever seen. Great job! Easy to follow. I never would have thought to actually use the engines to both set the anchor and recover it. So simple, but Grandpa obviously didn't know that one either. I remember many times recovering anchors by tearing the skin off my hands manhandling that stupid thing. Thank you.

[@boatus]

You are so welcome, Barry! We're glad we could give you a better alternative to tearing up your hands!

[@jkritselis]

Nicely done, audio, video clear and to the point, as a new boat owner very much appreciated.

[@boatus]

Glad it was helpful, James! Make sure to subscribe to our channel to receive notification of more upcoming boat-handling videos. We have several scheduled throughout the next couple months. And always feel free to let us know if there's a specific topic you'd like us to cover.

[@rebman5150]

Thanks for this video. I have a 21' Sea Ray and am in lakes only. I did not know about the 5:1 scope, and this is likely why I break loose when we anchor for lunch. Will do that this weekend!

[@boatus]

You are quite welcome! Thanks for watching, Rich. Remember that it's the angle of the chain/rode that helps dig in the anchor. It kind of has to drag along the bottom horizontally to work. Here's a video that explains what's going on under the surface that I think will be helpful: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iJvcmmupg7qrnJI Here's to a fun -- and more relaxing! -- lunch on the hook this weekend!

[@michaeldoblosky8204]

First video I watched that actually helped me. Thank you!

[@boatus]

Thanks for letting us know, Michael, and thanks for watching! Here's to a fun, safe boating season.

[@LoanwordEggcorn]

Nicely demonstrated. The drone footage for an overhead view was really helpful. One enhancement might be to put a small buoy in the water to better show the motion of the boat, but I suppose it would get out of the camera shot pretty early. Final turn of the cleat hitch when setting the anchor is flipped in the wrong direction. When freeing the anchor, the second cleat hitch is correct.

[@boatus]

Thanks for the feedback! Glad you liked the video, and we'll certainly give the buoy (or some other floating marker) some consideration for future on-water videos. Stay tuned for more handling videos that utilize the drone footage this summer!

[@gilesfisher5277]

Thank you for such a great and informative video. Splendid.

[@younggotribe]

Nice video. Good tip on using the windlass as you motor up on anchor to keep all the slack out of the line.

[@boatus]

Thanks for watching, younggotribe! Glad you found it helpful.

[@trxntroll843]

I have a 19ft boat and struggled in waters deeper than 10ft forever with the light stock danforth style anchor it came with. Switched to a three prong mushroom/river style one last year that weighs 30 lbs and never been better. I dont even need to let out all that extra rope. I literally just drop the anchor till it his ground then tie it off. Boat don't move an inch. We on lakes only.

[@boatus]

Glad you found something that works well for you and your boat, TRX. Sometimes it's a bit of trial and error. Stay tuned: We have a cool video coming up in the next few months on the mechanics of how an anchor works. It's REALLY interesting.

[@johnny12895]

thanks, i needed a little reminder on better procedures!

[@boatus]

Thanks for watching, John, and glad you found it helpful!

[@jimmayors2315]

a video on anchoring when solo would be great too! (from a cubby cabin)

[@boatus]

Thanks for the suggestion, Jim. We will put it on our list for consideration. Hoping to be able to get out and do more on-water videos in the spring.

[@anthonystephens5183]

Totally awesome information!!! I am about to buy my first boat, and I have been studying as much as I can!!! I truly appreciate this video. So much so that I subscribed!!!

[@boatus]

Thanks for watching, Anthony, and we're thrilled you found it helpful! All the best with the new boat! What are you getting? You can find a whole bunch more videos in our "Boating Quick Start Guide" playlist:kzbin.info/aero/PLSrVa8gUFaPwoBcTU1ojy9t7nV2JSQw27 If you haven't done so already, be sure to check out the area of our website dedicated to info on how to buy and sell boats, with lots of really helpful tips for before, during, and after the purchase. www.boatus.com/expert-advice/boats-and-tow-vehicles/buying-and-selling-advice (Of course we'd like to recommend a BoatUS Membership and/or Towing Membership for savings and peace of mind when you're out on the water. And you'll get our award-winning BoatUS Magazine 5 times a year as well!)

[@monkeyslap]

Just don’t say your first boat is going to be an Intrepid 438. Imma cry lol

[@Litosminishop]

Thank you Extremely helpful information. 😎👍🏼

[@boatus]

We're so glad you found it helpful, Litos. Thanks for watching!

[@TheBigBBBBB]

Good vid

[@merterdir]

Great vid. Thanks!

[@boatus]

You're very welcome, Mert. Thanks for watching!

[@alecharper515]

Thanks!

[@boatus]

You're welcome Alec! Glad you found it useful.

[@kenwindsoron1399]

Ty captain

[@boatus]

Thanks for watching!

[@markmaugle4599]

Do you add the height of the anchor sheave off the water to the water depth when calculating the 5 to 1 ratio? I have a sail boat and the Sheave is about 3’ off the water. I typically add this to the depth at high tide when anchoring over night.

[@boatus]

Thank you for your great question about the height of the bow roller above the water. You are correct in stating that technically you should add the height of the anchor roller into any calculations when ascertaining the length of rope or chain that should be deployed. However, it’s worth bearing in mind that if anchoring in 20-feet of water and you are using a 7:1 ratio, you’ll be letting out 140 feet of chain, so a couple of feet is neither here nor there. If on the other hand, you are in much shallower water and using a scope of 5:1, that extra 2 or 3 feet from the bow roller to the water’s surface can make a big difference.

[@bigdog7658]

Tie a bit of coloured string just back from the anchor on the chain. Gives you a heads up that the anchor is right there so you don't put it through your bow.

[@boatus]

Great tip, Big Dog! Thanks for watching and sharing!

[@damonsimmons8198]

Great video mate - Boat U.S. also informative for us kiwis in New Zealand.

[@boatus]

Thanks so much for watching, Damon! Just remember that you have to do everything the opposite way Down Under 🙃🤣 (kidding, kidding ...) Here's to a lot of safe and fun boating ahead!

[@Redreefmedia]

You need to do a video about tying up to mooring balls in marine sanctuaries. Too many boaters tie the line on the mooring buoy directly to their boat.

[@boatus]

Thank you for taking the time to comment on the video, and your suggestion concerning tying to a buoy. We will be working on shooting some more videos soon, and we’ll certainly consider your suggestion as we plan out future shoots. As you are aware, this is a video about anchoring, something that is often not recommended or allowed in many marine sanctuaries due to damage that may be done to coral and sensitive eco systems.

[@beefcakes27]

Great stuff here...

[@boatus]

Thanks for watching, Sean!

[@rayharris2383]

When determining the length of rode based on a multiple of "depth", you need to include the height of the bow above the water!!

[@boatus]

Absolutely, Ray! Thanks for the reminder.

[@antoniosalvador9754]

thank you

[@boatus]

Thanks for watching, Antonio!

[@kennethpaquin8574]

It would have been helpful if you explained how to determine how much rode is deployed. Does the windlass indicate how much rode has been paid out? I have no windlass on my boat but I have marked the rode every ten feet so that I can count the marks as the line pays out to know how much rode is deployed.

[@socal0buck]

Take a black permanent marker and put a band on the line for every 20 feet. 5 bands = 100 feet. If you have 30 feet of chain, start with 2 bands at 40 feet. The marker will last many years on the line.

[@mrthomaslaux1]

Nice

[@boatus]

Thanks for watching, Thomas!

[@newkeds]

Very good. Can it be done alone? Are there rocky bottoms where the anchor won't hold or get snagged?

[@boatus]

Thanks for the question, Paula. Yes, you certainly can do it singlehanded. And yes, there are rocky bottoms where it can be difficult for an anchor to get a grip. In fact, there are a number of different types of anchors intended for different bottom types and boats. You may want to watch our "Understanding Different Types of Anchors" video for more information, though it doesn't really go into which anchors are best for what kind of bottoms, as there are many variables. kzbin.info/www/bejne/nH3Mi2eJoKqeqtE If you are a BoatUS Member, look for your June/July issue of BoatUS Magazine in a couple weeks--we have a huge anchoring guide. Inside, we have an article outlining the common types of anchors and what kind of conditions each can be used for. (It will also be posted at www.BoatUS.com/Anchoring around June 10.)

[@alebron14]

What about the back of the boat????? How do you stop it from moving in the wind or current?? How do you set it?

[@boatus]

Thanks for the question, Ripper. When anchored, the stern should be expected to swing in the current and wind. It is possible to set out a stern anchor (or stern tie) as well to reduce the motion, though in some sea conditions there can be an element of danger when restricting the stern's ability to move with the seas. Most of the time, the best move is to simply anchor in a spot where there's sufficient room for the boat to turn 360-degrees around the anchoring point without encountering any other boats or solid objects.

[@JB_Hobbies]

Is driving forward still the way to go if my boat's anchor doesn't drop directly from the front of the bow? As in, it's off to either port or starboard. Do I want to turn a little or not? Asking because I have struggled getting my anchor out after it gets a good hold.

[@boatus]

If I understand you correctly, the issue that you seem to be having is breaking your anchor out. It sounds as though you do not have any sort of bowsprit on centerline anchor of the type shown in the video. Even if your boat is different to the one shown and does not have a windlass, the technique is still the same: Motor the boat forward while a helper in the bow pulls the anchor rode aboard. When the line is near vertical, cleat it off and drive the boat slowly forward to break the anchor free. When you feel the anchor break free, put the boat into neutral and get the crewmember in the bow to pull the rest of the ground tackle aboard. As mentioned in the video, it can be hard to see exactly the direction of the anchor rode, so get the crew to guide you by pointing in the direction of the anchor as you slowly steer the boat in that direction.

[@JB_Hobbies]

BoatUS Thanks for the reply!

[@johnny12895]

do you need an anchor buoy also with this style or is the windlass sufficient, i suppose the windless acts as a buoy puller?

[@boatus]

Hi Jun. The buoy just marks the position of the anchor. It has no bearing on actually pulling up the anchor. The windlass automates the process of dropping and weighing anchor, so the windlass motor does the work instead of you.

[@internetjunkie1000]

Two questions: 1) How do you anchor in a bay with lots of other boats? If you let out a sufficient length of rope you might hit other boats or headlands if the current changes. 2) I've never seen a demonstration video like yours where the driver reverses so aggressively to make sure the anchor is secured properly. Why do you suggest reversing aggressively--can't you just reverse gently like other video tutorials suggest?

[@boatus]

Thanks for the great question, Eddie. Anchoring in a crowded area is always a concern, especially for those who haven't done it much. In a bay with lots of other boats, you need to find the happy medium where you have out enough scope, but don't risk swinging into another boat or land. This can be a difficult judgment call at times, and in crowded waterways, it's not unheard of to have to leave one anchorage for another due to overcrowding. This article from our magazine may provide some additional helpful info: www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2021/june/where-to-anchor As for backing down: the word "aggressive" is certainly open to interpretation, and in most scenarios, you don't need to use a lot of throttle. Just how much will vary with the boat, gear, and bottom composition, but if the anchor line gets tight enough to pull the bow down a perceptible amount, you've probably applied plenty of pressure to be confident the anchor has set. Here's another BoatUS Magazine article you may find useful: www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2021/june/how-to-anchor Hope this helps!

[@internetjunkie1000]

@@boatus Thank you for your great answers. This clears things up for me. Re backing down, I like your tip (which I think you also mentioned in the video) about looking for the bow to dip to confirm the anchor is set.

[@boatus]

@@internetjunkie1000 You are quite welcome!

[@MonicaHolly143]

Im a new boater i only have a 13 ft whaler when im at beach im using the main anchor in bow facing the water and using only a sand bag as an achor for the stern is that okay ?? Or i need to buy a second anchor or the pole anchor

[@boatus]

Congrats on the new boat, and thanks for the question, Monica! In most cases that will be perfectly fine, but of course the current conditions have to be taken into account. Just remember that a big wave or a strong breeze can pull that sandbag out of position easily. On the flip side, in some case the technique you're using could even be preferred; if you pin down a boat that small with fore and aft anchors and a large wake hits, it increases the chances of the boat getting swamped. So, as long as conditions are appropriate, what you're doing sounds good to us. If you want more info on how to beach your boat so you can leave again, check out kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5nVZYOXfLmpm9U

[@thedevilinthecircuit1414]

The assistant flipped the final loop of the anchor's cleat hitch the wrong direction; it can easily work loose because there's no opposing friction within the hitch. Always flip the loop away from the standing line--not towards it.

[@boatus]

Thanks for the input, Devil.

[@Trident007]

any worries about getting the anchor line caught in the props when youre moving over it to detach it? thank you for the video

[@boatus]

Thanks for the question, Jose. As mentioned in the video, when raising the anchor use the engines to bring the boat toward the anchor. Avoid using the anchor windlass to pull the boat toward the anchor, as this places undue stress and wear on the windlass. To avoid fouling the anchor rode in the props, use the anchor windlass to retrieve the slack in the rode as you are motoring toward the anchor. If you have no windlass, then a crewmember would need to be at the bow to pull in the slack rode as you motor toward the anchor. Hope this helps!

[@Trident007]

@@boatus thank you it does. but what if youre alone with no windlass?

[@boatus]

@@Trident007 Ideally you’ll either have a windlass or someone to help retrieve the anchor. If you are alone and don't have a windlass, you will have to pull the anchor up by hand. Start the engines and keep them in neutral (so that they are ready to go once the anchor is free). Go up to the bow and pull the boat toward the anchor while retrieving the anchor rode by hand. Once the anchor breaks free, quickly retrieve it, stow it, hop back to the helm, place the engines in gear and go. This is typically easy enough to do in calm weather, but it can be trickier if it is windy or if there is a strong current or waves. (BoatUS STRONGLY recommends wearing a life jacket any time you are away from the dock, ESPECIALLY if you are by yourself.)

[@SOFLBOY]

If you're driving forward over the anchor, don't you run the risk of getting the line caught in the prop?

[@boatus]

No. As you drive forward, the rope is still under tension, so there's nothing floating around that can get tangled under the propeller.

[@tylercochran8178]

No

[@TheSteelArmadillo]

The video did not state this, so I had to watch again, I think they missed a step in editing. But I believe their procedure is to put the engines in gear> untie anchor line from cleat> motor forward slowly while pulling in anchor line until directly over the anchor> tie the line to the cleat> use the engines to break the anchor from the bottom> untie the anchor line and lift the anchor to the pulpit> tie it again.

[@merlinsdog4530]

Still can't tell how to unhook the anchor.

[@OU8Aspark]

If you wanted to sleep on your boat, would you use two anchors?

[@boatus]

Thanks for the question, Spark. Are you talking about deploying two bow anchors, one to port and one to starboard so the boat rides in the V of them? There can be a lot of "what-ifs" here (weather, anchorage, etc.) but in general, as long as the primary anchor and rode are in good condition and of sufficient size for the vessel and conditions, a single anchor is fine for overnighting once properly set. Hope this helps!

[@karencline2033]

Joining chain links

[@perwilly99]

The 5:1 scope seemed a bit big to me, at least in relation to the areas I cruise in, e.g., Puget Sound and the San Juan’s. There’s just too many boats in most anchorages here to allow for that much swing. So a 3:1 sounds better for my use.

[@boatus]

Thanks for your comment, Gregg. Although I you don't say what kind of boat you have or what ground tackle you're using, 3:1 is very short scope. There is a real danger that the anchor will break free without warning. An anchor's ability to dig into the bottom is directly proportional to it being pulled perpendicular to the seabed, something that is increasing unlikely with diminished scope. While 3:1 might be fine for a lunch stop when you can keep a close eye on whether you are dragging your anchor, I would find it hard to sleep knowing I had so little chain out. If the anchorage is that crowded, you can put out two anchors in a Bahamian moor to reduce swinging room or shore tie, which is a pretty common technique in your area.

[@AV8R_1]

How can you tell you have 100 feet of rode out? Is it marked? Didn’t look like it.

[@boatus]

Great question, AV8R! Some folks mark their chain/rode; others measure using their arm span (approx. equal to your height) as they pay out the rode. Here's a short article on marking anchor chain/rode that you might find helpful: www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2016/january/marking-anchor-chain Basically, you can mark in whatever lengths work for you, your boat, and where you typically anchor. We have an entire library of helpful anchoring articles at www.boatus.com/anchoring if you want to learn more. Thanks for watching!

[@AnthrozoologyTV]

How do you anchor on a closed bow boat?

[@boatus]

Thanks for the question, Anthrozoology. The principles of anchoring are the same for any boat irrespective of the type or manufacturer of the vessel. Some boats that anchor frequently, such as trawlers and many sailboats, will have the anchor mounted on a bow roller with the chain or nylon line in a locker. However, when you say a "closed bow boat" I can only assume that you mean a boat that has neither bow roller or chain locker - many go-fast boats are built like this. In this case, the anchor and line will need to be stored in some other part of the boat such as a cockpit locker and then carried forward to the bow, the anchor manually deployed over the bow, and then once sufficient line has been paid out secured to a bow cleat.

[@ionizer24]

My 1985 cuddy cabin cruiser has no anchor locker and no easy way to anchor, other than to do what BoatUS suggests. I use a cut-down five gallon plastic pail to haul my anchor, line and chain to the bow.

[@boatus]

@@ionizer24 Thanks so much for sharing your solution! No doubt a lot of folks have this same issue.

[@johnny12895]

how do you keep the vessel from moving side to side deploy a stern anchor also?

[@WattsUpDev]

jun rolndo I’m no expert but don’t think any boat will sway back an forth unless your on rough waters, in that case buy a Sea-keeper. You’d usually only anchor front & back when beaching near shallow waters so you can play etc.

[@boatus]

Do you mean how to keep the boat from swinging on (i.e., turning around) the anchor line? Boats are meant to swing on an anchor so they will face the prevailing wind or current, whichever is strongest. If you constrain your boat with both a bow and stern anchor and you get a big wave, you risk flooding/capsizing the boat because it can't move with the current.

[@marialbertomensa]

everything great, but... look at 2:04, the tying of the line to the cleat is not correct

[@Dan-oj4iq]

Your explanation was not clear (at least to me) as to how you "break" the anchor free from the bottom. What do you do if it is hard stuck to the bottom?

[@boatus]

Great question, Dan! Normally you would motor forward while the crew takes up the slack in the anchor line or chain until it is directly vertical. The chain or rope is then cleated off and the boat motored forward. This usually has the desired effect to break the anchor free.

[@joelscookingandcrazyadvent6173]

But how you know there was 100 feet out

[@boatus]

Some mariners will mark their line/chain every 10, 25, or 50 feet, and some anchor lines are color-coded for length. If yours isn't, the best way to measure as you let line out is to use arm lengths. A full span with both arms is about equal to your height, so as long as you know how tall you are you can estimate the length you've let out pretty accurately. You can read more about marking anchor chain/line at www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2016/january/marking-anchor-chain

[@8180634]

Christmas list item 1 - push button anchor

[@boatus]

They're definitely easier on the back!

[@Dademold]

Great when you have two people and push button.

[@boatus]

You bring up a good point, David. We'll consider adding solo anchoring and anchoring without a windlass to our list of possible future videos. Anchoring without a windlass is pretty much the same process; it just requires more manual work.

[@jeffreylaman5693]

Somewhat minor point, but still important. The helper needs to properly tie a cleat hitch. He did not in the video.

[@karencline2033]

Joining chAin links

[@boatus]

Hi Karen. Are you looking for a video on how to connect the chain to the anchor line? If so, you can find one at kzbin.info/www/bejne/gGTVmWaYoLxobdk Thanks for watching!

[@TMcD3]

I cheat. I see how all the other boats are positioned at my bar and figure 50 captains can’t all be wrong. Being we have soft muddy bottoms near my bar the anchor bites first time.

[@ThePratt61]

Nah, it is just the FIRST captain that has to be wrong haha

[@hollyobrien4418]

New at this. What is "sternway"? Just because one knows the terms please don't assume everyone knows what you are talking about.

[@boatus]

Awesome question, Holly. "Sternway" is just another way of saying your boat is moving through the water stern-first. It's used because it's a bit more accurate than to just say "reversing the boat," since a boat can be put into reverse without actually moving backward (thanks to momentum, current, wind, etc.). So when you say "sternway," you know the boat is actually moving, stern first, through the water.

[@dneuman7455]

is there a problem

[@2403mettalica]

Backing down on anchor that much ruins your shackles… you don’t need to back down on it for 60 sec either. A simple 0.5-1kt astern is enough to set it.

[@A.Matt7]

See on my boat you gotta hand line the anchor, we dont got the 2000 dollar motor to let go and retrieve the anchor

[@boatus]

The process is the same. However, good point. I can add that to our list of future videos for consideration. I do suggest subscribing to out channel though, and clicking the bell to receive notifications, because we have a really useful anchoring video coming out later this year.

[@A.Matt7]

@@boatus other than that I figured out that you gotta drive foward tho. So good stuff

[@10bbremer]

Great if you have a powered windlass.

[@ionizer24]

Seldom Scene same process, crew has to “earn their keep” rather than just pushing a button.

[@A.Matt7]

@@ionizer24 even we dont catch anything I get my arm work out...

[@richf4673]

I don't think your assistant tied a good cleat hitch

[@boatus]

Hi Rich. I'm not sure I'm seeing the issue. How would you do it instead?

[@chuckcurtin]

@@boatus The last loop was backwards.

[@chuckcurtin]

Second time was correct.