Boat Doctor episode 4 Replacing the Keel Bolts on our sailboat

[@mishpatim123]

The video does not show much of the process of replacing the keel bolts. When and how were the new bolts attached to the keel ? All I see are threaded rods and removal of the sealant between hull and keel. These threaded rods are screwed into - I take it- large stainless steel bolts attached under steel plates in the keel thereby not forgetting galvanic corrosion. How about showing the bolts in the bilde ? How much torque is applied to the threaded rods and bolts ?

[@DonMason-cv6og]

@@mishpatim123 unless specified during construction most SSt threaded rod is 304 variety better choices are 316 to Aquamet 322 the less iron and more chrome nickel content the better

[@JohnRyan-gr8bs]

How eas it fetermined the bolts beed teplacement ?

[@James-cr5qx]

What's the rough price for a job like that?

[@blairniven5433]

I’m planning to cut the keel off about 16” from the hull to keep the stability as she won’t sail again … but never thought about the seals between keel and hull !!!! Thank you

[@MrYngram]

Hi! I was thinking of doing the same thing to my boat. Have you cut it yet? Do you have any pictures?

[@mboyer68]

What kind of boat is that? There are many boats where the keel bolts aren't exposed, how do you check those for oxidation? Thank you:)

[@TroyaE117]

I am a big fan of the long encapsulated keel. No need for keel bolts there. I guess I must sacrifice some performance for strength.

[@steampunk888]

Why do people trust a few bolts to prevent what is sure to be an instantaneous capsize?

[@rotttrottt390]

stupid question. Bolts are everywhere, cars, planes, ferris wheel, everywhere and it is normal to trust your life on them.

[@reallyhappenings5597]

Because they're strong proven graded and trusted

[@norml.hugh-mann]

But what CANNOT be trusted Is the word of a boat seller as to Thame status of the bolts. Best buy a full keel...many of us certainly will never trust keel bolts as it's simply a poor design that can contribute to major damage being undetected and leading to fatal consequences for many. Even new boats could have sustained damage to their structure during transport that can and has remained concealed

[@atakd]

Personally I'd prefer an iron/steel keel secured with strong steel bolts to a GRP shell full of lead which can fracture and spill its ballast after impact with no internal indication of what's going on. And full keels are sloooooow and don't point so there's a much higher risk of being caught in weather or being fatally embayed on a lee shore, as happened to Dream Catcher, a long keeled Golden Globe entrant driven ashore in a gale whilst a fleet of fin keelers managed to beat to safety.

[@p.d.smithjr.3277]

@@rotttrottt390Bridges

[@TS-ig2es]

Where is the middle part left?

[@danthemansmail]

That is the kind of job I couldn't do myself and would have serious trouble trusting to someone else.

[@virgilgrillone7220]

What sealant did you use?

[@reallyhappenings5597]

he mentioned sika plex

[@atakd]

Sikaflex 291

[@ronagoodwell2709]

Dropping the keel can be a nightmare project. This video doesn't show much of the process. Best bet is to get a boat where the keel is integral to the hull. No bolts to worry about. Older style boats with slack-bilges, full keels and cutaway forefoot designs are tougher and you never have to deal with all this.

[@autonomousindividual7780]

Im surpised they haven't jumped all over you to tell you how terrible full keel boats sail. This, on the other hand, looks pretty terrible to me. It can get a lot worse than what we saw here it seems. I guess boats are no picnic no matter what.

[@ronagoodwell2709]

@@autonomousindividual7780You don't have to go full keel. You can have a cutaway forefoot and, maybe, a so-called Brewer bite towards the stern. Still fully encapsulated ballast in the keel is a good way to avoid the headaches. It should be pointed out that later design/build boats with fin keels don't necessarily have this problem. I've known more than a few sailors with fin- or modified fin -keel boats who have taken some hard grounding and never had an issue with keel separation. It's a favorite subject of conversation around the ol' watering hole.

[@TroyaE117]

​@@autonomousindividual7780 The full keel sails pretty well downwind in a big sea. Try a North Atlantic gale with a full keel. I suspect your opinion would change and you may drop the word " terrible " from your description.

[@stanleybest8833]

I'd like to see keels that are built with soda can aluminum all the way to the bottom, where it would meet with a lead weight shaped to deform in bottom strikes and groundings. Entirely iron keels have too much extra weight high up.

[@steveburke7675]

You won't see that. Aluminum is not strong enough in this application.

[@DonMason-cv6og]

Due to galvanic action you would lose it all. Very shortly. Unless you are in fresh water

[@stanleybest8833]

@@DonMason-cv6og Wrong. Everything on a boat wears out. Zincs would slow down corrosion. Soda can aluminum is high quality and can be allowed toward a boat builder's formula 5052, which is slower to corrode. You didn't read between the lines. A significant hull weight reduction, while keeping the boat stable.

[@DonMason-cv6og]

@@stanleybest8833 good observation I forgot about the 5052 series AL And it's corrosion resistance thanks for the reminder. M ye choice of keel bolts will always be silicone bronze Virtually no reaction between cast iron or lead ballast keels have had occasion to replace many of them over the years Some more than 70yrs of service