BoatZincs.com Corrosion Reference Electrode

[@bobolsen6804]

After you turned on you battery charger your hull potential quickly shifted down and then slowly rose while your batteries were charging. Your charger's ground cables are introducing a voltage drop (V=IR) that's being detected outside the boat by the Corrosion Reference Electrode. During the transit time of recharging your battery(s) your zinc anodes are experiencing accelerated corrosion (a.k.a "Electrolytic Corrosion", "Stray Current Corrosion"). However, your situation does not appear to be severe as the maximum voltage drop was only 50mV or so. Regardless, make sure your battery charger ground wires are oversized and have good electrical connections to each of the batteries being charged and that you have excellent ground connections to (and between) each engine block. Think about it -- if every underwater metal is connected together with perfect grounds (i.e., 0.00 ohms) they can only ever be at the same potential. Your hull potential would be unchanged whenever any electrical device was turned on or off. Also, don't forget to include in the testing your engine alternators at max RPM.

[@AdventuresofHappyOurs]

Thanks for the info. You are not the first one to suggest checking the ground connection for the batt charger. Will do that soon!

[@brian1919]

Excellent video Tommy. I was victim to stray current many years ago on a prior boat. The underwater metals turned to Swiss cheese and I had not ideas. Great PM topic.

[@Prototheria]

No input beyond gratitude for making these videos. Most channels gloss over the mundane tasks you give us a peek at and your stuff really helps give us an idea of the daily battles fought by boat owners. Also, I'm super stoked to follow along the mini loop!

[@AdventuresofHappyOurs]

Thank you!

[@bobvickers4469]

Really useful! Thank you.

[@brianjohnson8967]

Thanks. This was helpful. Looking forward to hearing about the root cause and solution to the battery charger grounding (maybe ?) issue ...

[@claire-d1e]

Capt Tom, I am glad you got your zincs from boats inc. I used to get my zincs there also, good prices and fast shipping! West marine is way too expensive for zincs, I used Lead, i think you use auminum, great!

[@AdventuresofHappyOurs]

I’m switching back to zinc. Better in salt water. I haven’t seen lead. How do those work and where you find them?

[@Joe.Blow1]

Hello sir, Thank you very much for your video. I have to tell you that all tour grounds have to be changed because they are rotten by verdigris. So the test you did should be done again on the engine propulsion engine itself as described in the instructions. Make sure that there is no verdigris on the parts tested between them (CRE and the alligator clamp hooked to your multimeter). Cheers,

[@AlbertKalinin-p2i]

as usual Capt. Tom good info thanks I use magnesium in fresh water anodes pretty used up each season I have bought my anodes from this company before. I have my battery charger on quite a bit so the shore power is usually plugged in alk in michigan

[@AdventuresofHappyOurs]

I’m hoping the zinc anodes fair better than my aluminum.

[@MrOpaulo]

Pretty good system, pretty good teacher lol

[@r7boatguy]

If I followed along correctly, it seems like you tested out ok. Maybe just switching from zinc to aluminum is all you need. That's what I use on my outdrive, however it isn't permanently in the water like your boat. I also have the Volvo Penta Active Corrosion Protection system - maybe that's something to look into?

[@AdventuresofHappyOurs]

I’ve had the active protection on older stern drive boats and it worked well. Not sure why they don’t make them for inboards boats.

[@frisky51]

Have you thought about changing the type of zinc? Aluminum, magnesium, etc.?

[@AdventuresofHappyOurs]

I’m changing my anodes to full zincs. My thrusters anodes are only available in aluminum however.

[@OceanWildlifePhoto-com]

​@@AdventuresofHappyOurs From my understanding, you are not supposed to use anodes of different metals underwater as they have different electrochemical potentials. Only when going from external (ie. hull) to internal (ie. heat exchanger) can you use different metals.

[@InternationalInSeaDent]

Very interesting test. I've seen divers at our marina use these before they dive on boats. Never thought about picking one up until your video. I was also wondering what you had done about your anodes after moving down from NY to FL. What anodes do others use in Cape Coral? Hope all is well. Thanks for the video and making me spend more money. :) C & G.

[@AdventuresofHappyOurs]

I had used aluminum anodes but are switching to zinc where available here in sw florida. They seem to hold up better.

[@jimpaddock7745]

Check and see if the ground wire on the battery charger AC was accidentally put on the DC ground buss bar. And see if the DC ground was accidentally put on the AC bus bar.

[@AdventuresofHappyOurs]

I’ll check that. Thank you!

[@notj5712]

2:32. Already not following directions.....