Hangkai 3.6 hp outboard - Second Season 1st start after storage

[@johngustafson2965]

Thank you Dan Great job I have one of these hot rods on order. Great info, Very interesting to me I just bought one for a birthday present for ME. 70 big ones. Fought cancer twice and won Going fishing now. I will be taking it apart shortly. Thanks again

[@BoilerDan1]

Yep, you only have one life, live it with someone fun! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment. Take a victory lap while you’re out on the water 😎👍👍👍

[@ah2347]

Hey I really love your videos on this motor because it is heavily informing my decision to purchase. Further, you have been educating me on how to maintain the motor, and that has been really informative. Thank you for sharing!

[@BoilerDan1]

One important note: Best to not break in with a bucket. Take out on water or keep hose running. I failed to mention that I kept adding snow to keep water cool!😂 It was winter and I’m an hour away from any lake. 🙄 Thanks for watching 👍👍

[@hootpelican1172]

Planning to buy one for my Bass Raider Pelican 10E. It's nice to have these videos to help me troubleshoot problems and to do appropriate maintenance and reoairs.

[@BoilerDan1]

I thought when I bought mine that I’d record my experiences. Glad to hear you find them helpful. Just keep in mind that I’m not a mechanic, I’m more of a tinkering kind of guy…😂 Thanks for watching 👍👍

[@domshiu157]

Thanks for the video! I don't know if anyone else have similar problem, but after first season, i couldn't get it started after next spring, i thought it's the carburetor, but it turns out it was the fuel filter in the tank, took it off and the motor started instantly.

[@BoilerDan1]

Glad you figured that simple and inexpensive fix. Maybe your comment will help someone else out too! Thanks for watching and sharing your experience.👍😂

[@Q-BinTom]

Thanks for sharing with all of us Dan

[@JustinShidell]

Hi Dan, thanks for making this series on your Intex Excursion 4 and HANGKAI 3.6 HP. I'm looking to make a project boat very similar to yours, and was hoping to use a HANGKAI 3.5 HP that was gifted to me. I was hopeful that the (relatively) low weight of the HANGKAI 3.5/3.6 engines would allow them to rest on the Intex transom comfortably, but in watching your series, you needed to make some significant modifications to support the outboard: You extended the transom mount bars to extend (approximately?) 5' out, attaching to the oar mounts, and you added a strap winch to your seat mount. I'm not sure I want to add seats to my own project, and watching your video series has me concerned that my 3.5 isn't going to sit nicely on the transom without dipping the back end down. Because of your findings, and noting that the 3.5 is roughly 49cc (and the 3.6 55), I'm considering a Minn Kota C2-50 Endura electric trolling motor instead. I was wondering if you've considered the same and what your thoughts are; given my 3.5 is roughly 49cc, I'm expecting approximately the same amount of power. Do you think it'd be wise for a person at this point of the project to go with an electric trolling motor? Would you stick with the HANGKAI regardless? Thanks for your thoughts.

[@BoilerDan1]

I decided on the gas powered because I didn't want to hassle with the battery. I can take fuel along, I can't recharge my battery. But there are risks.... It could quit running! But I would be concerned if you are not going to have some additional support. I think it would pull under without adding more support in some way. So your thought of the lighter electric might be the better choice? If you already have the Hangkai as a gift, hook it up and give it a try... Maybe not full speed? But as is..... I'm almost certain it is going to dip the back in down significantly. I will add that I should have used ridged bars out to the oar mounts. The conduit tubes are too flexible. I'm considering securing a plank to the motor support to try and raise it up just a bit more..... For me, I'm tinkering around with it... So far this year, too much rain and high water, so I haven't been able to get out as of yet...JULY! :0( Thanks for watching and writing!

[@JustinShidell]

@@BoilerDan1 Thanks for the response! I really dig your project, and thanks to your videos and feedback, I've decided upon a Mariner M4 instead of the Excursion 5. From what I can tell, the M4's extra rugged construction provides additional support in the transom, which should support lightweight outboards naturally. (Here's a link to a video depicting an M4 with a Suzuki 2.5 HP: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKXFhJ6eeZp9iqs). Between the extra transom support, additional ruggedness, and the OEM solid floor, I think it might be the right call for me-but I do wish it had the extra space of the Excursion 5. I completely agree with you regarding the electric trolling motor; it sure is nice to bring a full outboard and additional 1 Gallon tank in the boat-with these little engines that will run forever, whereas the trolling motor needs a heavy deep cycle battery and even then is 2 hours or less of full-speed runtime. I suppose everyone has to make trade-offs here and there, especially in this low-price-point inflatables bracket. Either way, I like the portability and I look forward to your future videos, and if I make any discovers with my 3.5, I'll be sure to pass them along.

[@JustinShidell]

Also, for you (or anyone else looking right now), Ebay has a 15% sale for the Fourth of July that includes sellers selling Intex gear, including the Excursion 5, Mariner 4, transoms and other parts-look up the July 4th sale on Ebay.com; the current promo code is "JULY4FUN". Saved me $35 off a Mariner 4!

[@BoilerDan1]

Hey @@JustinShidell- I guess I didn't realize you were choosing which raft to get.... YES get the better one. I only picked the excursion to put something cheap on my Christmas list for kids to get me. Then I started seeing what I could do with it. I'm glad I helped your decision making process. I think you are making the right choice all the way around. Watched the video and loved the raft and motor..... Looked up just the motor..... $800 Maybe someday!

[@BoilerDan1]

I'm going to do some serious consideration of updating to the Mariner 4! Let me know how yours works with a motor on it!

[@PedroMartinez-jm9qn]

Update: I just finished 12 hours of break-in. The last hour was done with a 50:1 (gas/oil) ratio. The acceleration issue did not improve, so...I decided to mess with the carburetor setting. I turned the adjustment scree 1/4 of a turn counter clockwise. That did the trick! The motor now responds efficiently and with power. After this break-in period I also decided to do the gear oil maintenance- which I am glad I did, since the gear oil was pretty ugly. I also had to replace the recoil mechanism - as it failed on the last pull.... Next, I will be taking it to the lake. Thanks!

[@BoilerDan1]

I think everyone has to replace the recoil system at least once! I'm sure we covered this, but make sure the plastic guides are secure.... Maybe super glue them. There is one on the outside of the housing, but more important is the one on the actual recoil part itself. Bee wax the cord and make sure when you pull the starter cord, you don't just let it go and flop back into place.... try to hang on to it, and let it go back in under control. Happy to here that minor carb adjustment worked.... Oh, and order a back up recoil rope system. And take that little pack of tools along with you on the lake! Lol...

[@BoilerDan1]

My gear oil also never looks good after it runs.... I'm not sure if that is normal? So - it takes so little, I'm just going to keep an eye on it and change it regularly

[@electricbadgercollc8146]

Thank you for taking the time to share your experience.

[@BoilerDan1]

It’s called “Retirement!” 😂. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍

[@PedroMartinez-jm9qn]

Hi BoilerDan1. I am in the process of breaking my Seahorse 3.5 (which is a Hangkai). I was lucky to find one new in the box for $50. Long story short the gentleman I bought it from decided to go another route (Jet Ski). So I figure I take a chance on it. I did all of the preventive stuff you suggested NGK plug, new fuel lines, new gear lube, bees wax etc... I am on the 6th hour of break-in (using the 32:1 ratio best I can - not 100% exact) and see a lot of value with the break-in period. This has given me the opportunity to “tweak” a few things; IE: I had to repair a puncture on the gas tank (relatively simple fix - with a soldering iron). My question to you is: I noticed that once I pass half throttle the motor slows down - it does not shut off, but you can tell that it is not accelerating like it should. I am not sure if its the gas/oil ratio or if I will have to “mess” with the carburetor’s setting. Your thoughts? Looking forward to your videos. Thanks!

[@BoilerDan1]

It could be fuel mixture. I'd try getting to that speed spot and adjust the screw about 1/2 turn each wat to see if there is improvement? Also, that is about the point where the clutch drive starts to activate. That would put more drag on the motor too. Sounds like you got a great deal!

[@PedroMartinez-jm9qn]

Thanks for your reply. I guess I’ll finish the existing gas/oil mix I already made (about one gallon) and be more precise with my next gas/oil ratio and make the adjustment you suggested with the fresh batch. Thanks again.

[@novelynislostinthetropics3455]

@@PedroMartinez-jm9qn did u figure out what that issue was? im thinking of getting an external gas line.... thinking that it was an issue with the gas line.

[@BoilerDan1]

It will be interesting to hear his reply, hope he’s still watching! I’m guessing it could have been either problem, the 32/1 mixture is pretty oil rich. But I also have tweaked the carburetor adjustment screws slightly. The other possibility is that the clutch could be wearing off which also will reduce thrust. Hope to see a reply from the original posting, but it’s from a year ago. Thanks for watching and following along!👍👍

[@Kitchfox]

Kind of a neat collection of videos on the HangKai. I have a 6.0 HP and the thing just runs and runs without a problem. But looking at your videos the little 3.5 is a very different motor from the 6.0

[@BoilerDan1]

Joe Baker : Thanks for the information on the larger 6hp. I’m thinking that the 4hp 4 cycle might be a better choice than the two cycle with the 4 or 6 being air cooled. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! 😁

[@ScrtAznMn]

Thanks for the great series of videos on this outboard. I picked one up last year and did the break-in out on the river using my friend's skiff. As the tide was going out after about 4 to 5 hours, we decided to head back to the dock. That's when we smelled something like electrical wires burning, or maybe brake pads? The engine also started to bog down. Even though we knew not to run it full throttle, we panicked and tried to limp back to the dock gunning the engine full-throttle but it barely ran. It finally died and we paddled the last 50 yards back. After the motor cooled won a bit, I started it up and it seemed OK and started, but I did not run for more than a minute. It's been in my garage in storage since last summer. I figure I'll crack open the case and see if anything is burned. Got any idea where I might have to look? Is this a sign of the clutch wearing out?

[@BoilerDan1]

I’m going to guess it’ll be the clutch. The spring is too heavy duty, so when you reduce speed even a little it pulls allowing the clutch to slip…. That’ll create heat! And wear it out. Clutch material is also very thin. I heard someone suggest to just remove the clutch spring! Then the propeller and water pump will always turn. Just shut it down when you want to stop! That actually sounds like a good idea to me! Order yourself a new clutch 👍👍

[@BoilerDan1]

The motor will also sputter if it gets too hot…. Generally the thought is that the fuel boils and pushes backwards? Not sure on that one?

[@roycornell2001]

hi dan been awhile ,i finally got my hangkai torn apart to look at clutch,and as expected spring did break.And after pulling clutch out to replace because i rdered a new one which was a double spring instead of single spring ,lucky i work in a steel plant ,took it to mill rite and he machined it for me to fit ,i think it was for a yamaha.But anyway this new clutch has much more pad and uses both springs for both pads it works great.I must tell you after only one season the clutch that was in there was down to bare metal,would have started to slipping soon glad spring broke.This is something you may look into my motor has roughly 40 to 50 hours on it shouldnt have been bare metal already

[@BoilerDan1]

Some great info. Thanks for letting me know (for my own motor). I'm seriously considering making a video of taking that as a video project. Take mine apart and check it out. That along with the water pump system. Maybe I could do both at the same time! I plan on a long trip down a local river that should take about 6 hours. After that I'm willing to take it apart and do an examination. I'm still waiting for water levels to come down before taking my raft on that type trip. Good to hear that you were able to improve your motor!

[@roycornell2001]

@@BoilerDan1 taiking mine out this sunday should be a great day also had to replace fuel lines even after using only premium gas my coworker told me to go to menards and get etanol free 2 stroke pure gas already mixed with oil said he uses in all his small engines with a tank bad side its 14.99 a gallon but motor runs way better and much cooler because ethanol burns hotter

[@roycornell2001]

they have 40 to 1 mix and 50 to 1 which i bought life span of pure gas is 2 years after opening

[@BoilerDan1]

I’ve seen the ethanol free at places too. Yes, very pricy. I’ll be the tester of putting in a fuel additive and see if that helps. Water levels on local rivers still to high for my little raft.... I hope in the next week or so, I can give it a try... Enjoy your outing on Sunday!

[@roycornell2001]

well dan unfortunately that clutch didnt work its slipping real bad motor is still good but im afraid its gonna go to the junk pile im not spending anymore on it as i bought an electric trolling motor .to bad all it needs is the correct clutch

[@TONYZDANDY]

Hi I bought the same engine on Amazon. I know that there are all a series of procedures to be done before using the engine, could you list all the steps I need to do please? I don’t want to ruin the engine. I know that there is to put the grease in the gears to mix gasoline etc. can you explain to me well please , everything that needs to be done and the products to buy and how to apply everything? Thank you

[@BoilerDan1]

That's a big request! Not sure I can fill all your needs but I will outline some, (Hopfully) helpful hints... 1. You need to add gear lubricant in the lower gear housing. Do Not over fill it. There needs to be just a little airspace to allow for expansion when it heats up. If you look close, there is actually a line stamped into the metal. 2. Do not overtighten any of the screws, bolts, or spark plug. The block is aluminum and will strip out easily. 3. Here is the manufactures link with some helpful articles for you research: www.hang-kai.com/en/nr.jsp 4. Break-in the motor: Here is what Hangkai says: HANGKAI two-stroke outboards fuel used for lead-free number from 90 to 93 two-stroke gasoline and gas oil (TC-W3) mixed oil. The new machine in the running and fuel oil during the volume ratio of 25: 1 After the run-in fuel and oil volume ratio of 50: 1 ************************************************************************************ 5. You will find that 25;1 will result in a lot of oil residue. (You decide, but 30:1 is a little cleaner). Don't run in a bucket, but if you must, run cool water the entire time so you don't overheat the motor. BEST is to run it on a lake or pond on you boat. 6. Don't put any sound deadening on it like I tried to do. You will hold too much heat , so leave it alone. Same with air filter, the one on it is fine. ************************************************************************************* Hangkai recommends this run schedule to break it in: New outboards general points four stages, a total of eight hours. When running, the volume of fuel and oil used in the mixing ratio of 25: 1 (1) Outboard motors start hanging neutral, throttle control in less than 1000 rev / min, running 10 minutes; (2) when the run began outboard hanging forward gears, throttle control operation in 1/4 (25%) 50 minutes; (3) Next, the engine control 50% throttle, speed 2500 to 3500 rev / min is not getting off the change, running time of 2 hours; (4) the engine speed up to 3500 to 4500 rev / min, 80% do not throttle control in the changing gradually, running time of 3 hours; (5) the engine can be run at any speed, running time of 2 hours, but full throttle running time should not exceed 10 minutes, to a reasonable conversion at different throttle speed. After eight hours in front of the run, the engine can switch to 50: 1 volume of petrol and oil mix ratio. ************************************************************************************ I think basically the manufacturer is saying to vary your speed during break in. ************************************************************************************ 7. I would change the sparkplug to a better one. Featured in one of my videos as my sparkplug went bad.... 8. The clutch spring is too strong and will wear out the clutch withing the first two seasons. I have posted a video on that too. You'll need to learn how to work on the motor, but that can be fun too. Thanks for watching. Hope you enjoy yours and have good success with it.

[@kimspencer434]

When you have to replace parts in any of your videos would you be able to provide part links? We are considering this motor but want to be sure parts are accessible and easy to get. That is my main concern with this type of motor.

[@BoilerDan1]

Sorry, I'm not capable of going back and putting in that type edit. (Not that it can't be done, I'm just not sure how?) I had good success just searching both eBay and Amazon by typing Hangkai outboard motor parts.... The clutch for example is the same as several brush cutter and trimmer parts. Here's a list of the part and what it fits: Clutch Drive Bolt Washers for Honda GX31 GX35 GX35NT Fit Mitsubishi TL33 TL43 TL52 T180 T200 T240 Engine Brush Cutter Tiller Trimmer Here's an Amazon link of one that I purchased to install on my motor: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J6F4J6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@dozamm]

Can it be lay on side in the Vehicle (Car or truck)

[@BoilerDan1]

Yes, that’s why I bought the two cycle. I’d have preferred the 4 but had to lay it down in my car, and the 4 would leak oil into the cylinder. Not a problem with the 2cycle.

[@abrahamkou5909]

FYI: My Hangkai 3.6's kill switch failed and shot stuck in the "run" position. I replaced it with another switch and along the way made some measurements that may interest you: 1) red wire is case or ground. 2) black wire has ~400V pulses when sparking. I felt it when I press my finger on this failed switch. 3) the kill switch runs normally open. When one presses it, it shorts the 2 wires and stopped sparking.

[@BoilerDan1]

I knew about how the kill switch worked. I didn’t know about the black wire being pulsating 400 volts….. but I’m taking your word of experience as opposed to grabbing the wire myself 😂. Thanks for the info. I’ll help others as they check the motor out👍👍

[@testtech8474]

Hi Dan, Thank you for this wonderful effort, I want to ask a question, I have this same engine, How do I know if the water pump is working well? And from where does the water get out?

[@BoilerDan1]

The water exits about mid way down the shaft going to the propeller. There is a black plastic rectangular cover that has a hole in the bottom. Once you accelerate the motor enough to turn the propeller, the pump will run. It's a simple wheel on the shaft that pushed the water along. Water will not pump at an idle, so you don't want to sit at an idle for long periods of time. Not a lot of water comes out but it you should be able to see it. Here is a link to another one of my video's that shows the water coming out. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpXXeod8rZuBY7M

[@testtech8474]

Thanks Dan You are radiant in experience This is a wonderful thing that makes you avoid those looking for science and knowledge Accept my full respect

[@competitionblonde]

Dan, love the videos. Quick question. While doing the break in I noticed water coming out of the cowl. After further inspection it look like an exhaust tube right nest to the water line. It us spurting water out of the bottom when that tube meets the base. Is this something to be concerned about and how to fix. Was thinking about just smooshing some JB weld over the hole.

[@BoilerDan1]

It seems to be that the water comes up from the idle exhaust port. It’s nothing to worry about, but it is a little annoying. At first I thought that the clips holding the water lines were not tight enough. But when I replaced the clutch I discovered that there’s nothing to prevent water from coming up the shaft. And you and I are not the only ones that have this issue. I ended up just ignoring it 😅. Appreciate your watching 👍👍

[@BoilerDan1]

Let me add a little more: water should come out the hole about half way down the shaft along with some exhaust. Most goes out below the water line. So don’t plug any holes 😉

[@ryanpatrick116]

I just bought this motor.. so far I like it no problems yet but I do see me screwing up the propeller do you know were I can find a spare.. thanks

[@BoilerDan1]

I found them on eBay, both metal and plastic. I’m out of town until later today. I’ll send you a link later today or sometime tomorrow showing an example. I’ve had trouble finding a shear pin replacement. Made some out of brass rod but not sure how well it will work? Thanks for watching! Good luck with your motor. Might order yourself a clutch as they wear out fast! eBay top!

[@BoilerDan1]

Here is a link from eBay. I purchased two from this place total for each was under $15, so I can confirm they did send me two of them in separate orders. They don't come with the Shear Pin... So I'm working on making my own.... www.ebay.com/itm/Outboard-Aluminium-Alloy-Propeller-7-1-4X5-A-for-Yamaha-Boat-Motor-2-Stroke-2HP/401314346622?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I also ordered and received a new clutch from Amazon and here is that link. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J6F4J6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@markbrown7449]

I don't run regular gas in my mower or weed eater, only premix 50:1. I figure premix is real gas and most of the time, its 92-93 octane.. Whatcha think

[@BoilerDan1]

Yes, I agree. I’ve had two people in my family have carburetor and fuel line problems on mowers and snowblowers using regular gas.

[@cheddiwilson6267]

Hi Dan ....question....after starting the engine, when do i put the choke in the off position. And when running the engine on the water where should the choke be? Thanks

[@BoilerDan1]

Easy answer: They put the sticker on backwards! So choke on is actually the choke is off! With a cold motor have the choke active. Right after you get it started you can shut it off. I guess it would be easier if they had used the word “Run” instead of “on”. If confused, take the cover off and see what the choke actually does. There’s just a plastic flap that covers the air intake going into the carburetor. When you cover the air intake you are choking the engine. (Less air, more fuel). Now that I have you totally confused...😂... When you’re running the motor the lever should be in the “On” position indicating “Run”. Just remember it’s backwards and you’ll be fine out on the water 👍 Thanks for watching 😁

[@cheddiwilson6267]

@@BoilerDan1 Man I really appreciate your quick response. I recently purchased a 11 ft Saturn Inflatable and I just want to make sure I break this engine in the proper way. I started the breaking in yesterday....1 hour so far. Dan, While the engine was running I noticed that not much or at times no water was coming out of the area where the exhaust fumes was exiting from.......Is this something that I should be concerned about?

[@kennethmkirschprofessional267]

Hi Dan, Great videos! I purchased the Hangkai 3.5 this spring. Changed spark plug and added lube to gear case etc... In testing, the prop doesn’t turn. Prop is correctly seated and locked on shaft. Without prop in bucket test, it’s splashing all over but I notice no water coming out from outtake spigot. I opened and checked water prop and it spins when I rotate the main shaft. Seems ok. Shaft is correctly seated up in engine block. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated Dan. Thanks!

[@BoilerDan1]

The prop only turns when there is enough speed to stretch open the clutch spring. So first question, are you above an idle? At an idle there is not enough RPM's to open the clutch to engage the propeller. I'll attach a link showing the clutch replacement part and you can see how it is designed. With speed, the clutch pivots open and similar to a brake pad, catches and turns the propeller shaft. The clutch could also be defective or I've heard of the springs breaking, but in that case, the clutch should engage with very little acceleration. So if you have tried keeping up to at least half full speed and no water is coming out of the water exhaust port and the propeller isn't spinning... Not good. You'll have to decide on returning it or replacing the clutch. Here is a link where so you can see one... Or purchase it too.... :0( www.ebay.com/itm/232564536839 Also, Don't rev up too much without the prop.... Someone wrote me and said that is not a good idea! Although I have had no problems as a result.... But note, I kept putting snow in my water to keep it cool... In summer, just run water from a hose in the bucket to keep it cool. Let me know how it turns out. Thanks for watching.

[@kennethmkirschprofessional267]

Thanks Dan Yes, when I rev the throttle, the prop does not turn and no water is coming out at all. I’m indeed hesitant to keep it running without water thru the engine. So I suppose I must then take apart the entire motor, from the 6 base bolts, and check to see if the clutch is defective? (I’ve seen quite a few problems with this engine, but not this issue right out of the box).

[@BoilerDan1]

Sorry to hear that. I've been considering taking mine apart to show how to replace that particular item.... I've never actually done it but it seems like a simple motor. Shame it's not me instead of you, I actually purchased the motor to play around with it. You are the third person I know of with this issue. One returned theirs, the other replaced the clutch and last I heard it was working but the person lost all faith in the motor. Hope it goes well with yours. I'm still milling over taking mine apart just as a thanks to all those that have watched my video's.... I think I'm talking myself in to it!

[@BoilerDan1]

Hey, I just thought of something! I wonder if the clutch is just stuck on itself? Could you vibrate it from the outside, like tap the area with a hammer or rubber mallet? Not beat it to death or anything like that! Although that's what you might like to do at this point! :0) Just something to jar it lose...… Maybe I'm thinking too hard... I suppose open it up and try and free it up from the inside would be a better choice. Let me know how it works out.

[@kennethmkirschprofessional267]

BoilerDan1 Thanks Dan! It seems the rubber water impeller is so snug it doesn’t allow the shaft to turn freely. Did a test with no water impeller, ran engine briefly out of water and clutch engaged and was rotating the shaft. Baffled but challenging.

[@jamesphung3091]

Thank you for sharing Dan. Looking forward to make a purchase of a Hangkai. How does it fair in salt water with this motor?

[@BoilerDan1]

I couldn’t be farther from salt water. But some viewers do use it in salt water. The one thing that could be a concern is the water supply tube. It looks like copper but I saw a video of one that deteriorated. I do think that you could make a replacement from a similar size copper tube. You can see the water supply tube in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/fmXQgXqrerChgas Part 2: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h6acgJ2Ol7KoqqM Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment 👍👍

[@jamesphung3091]

BoilerDan1 Thanks Dan for your input.

[@inmotion81]

I was thinking about getting one as a kicker motor for my boat but they seem kinda noise because the exhaust dont inter the water

[@BoilerDan1]

Actually the exhaust does exit below the waterline. A small amount comes out the port at an idle, but isn't loud. However, the motor itself is a little loud compared to more expensive ones. I'm guessing because there is no sound deadening material. I tried to add some but it was ineffective.

[@vichelton2002]

I have one that is new this year. It's book says 30 to one mix for break in. I'm having trouble getting it started. I have to yank that cord until I'm give out at least twice before it will start. Any suggestions for getting it started?

[@BoilerDan1]

Suggestion: For some reason the sellers say 30:1 mix. In short, use 25:1. Here’s the manufacturer’s recommendation from their website: And the mixing ratio of the fuel HANGKAl two-stroke outboards fuel used for lead-free number from 90 to 93 two-stroke gasoline and gas oil (TC-W3) mixed oil. The new machine in the running and fuel oil during the volume ratio of 25: 1 (ie, the oil content of 4% gasoline); After the run-in fuel and oil volume ratio of 50: Here’s a link to the website: go to upper left corner and click on the hash marks: then select NEWS and you’ll find lots of information m.hang-kai.com/en/

[@vichelton2002]

Thanks, I'm using ethanol free gasoline for my mixture. I will check out the link.

[@BoilerDan1]

I don’t have ethanol fuel readily available so I used the highest octane fuel. But my fuel lines wore out the beginning of the second season. Not difficult to change, so I would just do it every spring! Another thing I thought of: when I received mine there was a side note regarding the fuel/oil mixture. It said the manual said 30:1 mixture but it was a printing error and suggested 25:1. Also at 25:1 it will run dirty with an oily discharge. Once you go to 50:1 it’ll run clean! Hope yours does well.👍

[@joshpesca9017]

How much of oil and gas you use because I don’t have the container??? Thank you

[@BoilerDan1]

To break the motor in you should mix 1 part oil to 35 parts fuel. 35/1mix. Once it’s broken in, then you can do a 50/1 mix. You should get yourself a mixing container. Walmart has one or here is a link for one at Amazon: 1.0L 1L Gas Pertrol Fuel Oil Mix Mixing Bottle Gasoline Chainsaw Trimmer 25:1/50:1/40:1/20:1 www.amazon.com/dp/B07FDPX4PR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N6LbFbP0S92YH

[@ThomasCullen-jp4fy]

Dumb question. Why is the fuel green? I've never owned 2 stroke.

[@BoilerDan1]

You mix special 2 cycle oil with the gas, maybe it gave it that color.

[@BornAgainBoating]

Sweet!

[@DailyEuchre]

Hi Dan. Thank you for your videos. I got one of these motors recently and am trying to get it prepared for when it warms up and I can get it out for the first time. I am relying heavily on your videos. I have a question for you. I put gas in to try it out but then I laid it down and noticed later that gas leaked out. I'm assuming it leaked out of the vent hole. Then I actually read the little sticker saying what to do before laying it down. It says 1. Turn the fuel cock to the "closed" position. 2. Tighten the air-vent screw on the fuel tank cap. I don't know what either of those mean. If there's supposed to be a screw thing on the cap I don't have one on mine. We're hoping to take our little boat to Colorado in the summer and I think the motor would have to be laying down for the trip. Thank you.

[@DailyEuchre]

Also, I noticed down below that you mentioned the clutch wears out fast. How would I know if the clutch is bad?

[@BoilerDan1]

Actually this motor doesn’t have either of those items on the motor. Best solution is to remove the fuel from the tank. It’s pretty easy to remove the 4 bolts securing it. Take a small funnel with you and dump excess fuel back into your fuel can. Also if you have the 2 cycle, it can lay on its side however the 4 cycle that has oil separate from the fuel can have oil leak into the cylinder if laid on its side. So for transportation, oil would need removed too. Thanks for watching, Note that in my early videos I should have mentioned to keep cool water running when operating in a bucket. I kept adding snow but failed to mention it.

[@BoilerDan1]

You can kind of hear it slipping and you will lose thrust. When mine went out completely, I had almost had zero forwarded motion. Thanks for watching!

[@DailyEuchre]

Thank you so much. And I did see where you had a bucket to keep it cool. I am running water slowly but continuously into a bucket.

[@timkaczmarowski8151]

did u do anything special for storage after the first season or just dump out the fuel and thats it?

[@BoilerDan1]

Since it doesn’t have oil inside it, I just removed all the fuel, ran out any extra by starting it. My garage is climate controlled, so it was exposed to extreme cold or humidity over the winter.

[@timkaczmarowski8151]

@@BoilerDan1 thanks, if i were to burn out the excess fuel today where would i take it apart to drain any water that may be left in it? i am in wisconsin and my insulated garage does have the potential to get below freezing in the dead of winter, thanks

[@BoilerDan1]

@timkaczmarowski8151 The water cooling system is very simple. I’m guessing you could take the cap off that’s part way down the shaft going to the propeller. I think it just has a screw holding it on. It’s where the water comes out when it’s running. Anyway, just hold a. Shop vac hose up to the area and it should pull out any moisture left. It would probably just drain out and dry on its own. You could also just blow air into it as opposed to shop vacuuming it.

[@timkaczmarowski8151]

@@BoilerDan1 thanks BD! done and done! glad it fired right up when i burned out the extra gas, i hadnt run it since august

[@BoilerDan1]

@timkaczmarowski8151 Hopefully it’ll start right up in the spring 👍👍

[@BoomTerra]

What is the name of that NGK spark plug you were using. I have been trying to figure out what spark plug I need to get. Thx

[@BoilerDan1]

It is NKG number BM6Y. Here is a link to a video also providing that info: studio.kzbin.infoJUaHjwJSglw/edit Amazon has one ( www.amazon.com/NGK-BM6Y-Standard-Spark-Plug/dp/B000BYR3E6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=bm6y&qid=1562503063&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-2-catcorr ) but you can take the info to big box stores or maybe auto parts store and get one there too. The good news is: The spark plug came pre-gapped, so I didn't change anything on the NGK spark plug. Also, Here is a link I found directly to the Manufacturer: www.hang-kai.com/en/ if you click on the ARTICLES tab you can find all kinds of information on the motor. "Spark plug type recommended for: NGK its electrode gap of 0.9 to 1.0 mm.

[@jamesbeams489]

Champion j8y works great.

[@BoilerDan1]

@jamesbeams489 I started with the Champion, but a viewer convinced me to go with the NGK. But I think the Champion would have continued to work just fine! Thanks for watching and contributing to the conversation.👍

[@mrcharlesbreed]

My propeller does not turn at any throttle speed, prop turns but very stiff ?

[@BoilerDan1]

Make sure you have put gear lubricant in at propeller. The clutch in these are very poor. Watch my video on replacing it. You might try replacing or removing the clutch spring. I also have video posted on that. Make sure that your sheer pin isn’t broken off. That’s some of what it might be???? Hope it gets better for you. Thanks for watching.

[@mrcharlesbreed]

BoilerDan1 yes, we have gear oil, first thing we did. I think the impeller is causing too much resistance so the cutch is not able to over come that resistance even at full throttle. I’ll be taking it all a part once the new clutch, spring, fuel line, bees wax, propeller, spark plug - all show up next week.

[@BoilerDan1]

@@mrcharlesbreed, I think you have it figured out! The bolts holding the clutch in place are probably too tight. I had no way of knowing how much you had researched. I have had a few others mention the same symptoms and it turned out to be the bolts were so tight that the clutch couldn't spin outward. Sorry I hadn't covered that initially... I was on vacation in S/W Florida and didn't have access to my computer. I hope that it all works out for you.

[@BoilerDan1]

@@mrcharlesbreed These links may help with parts in the future: Clutch: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07J6F4J6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Propeller: www.ebay.com/itm/Outboard-Aluminium-Alloy-Propeller-7-1-4X5-A-for-Yamaha-Boat-Motor-2-Stroke-2HP/401314346622?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Pull cord assembly: www.ebay.com/itm/Pull-Starter-2HP-3-5HP-2-Stroke-Outboard-Motor-Hangkai-Boat-Engine-Parts-Red-/253107162319?hash=item3aee5ccccf Best wishes.

[@balderamadondy6102]

Can i use the fuel of the car?

[@BoilerDan1]

Yes

[@BoilerDan1]

I should mention that you have to mix the fuel with 2 stroke oil, as this type motor doesn’t have an oil pan like a car, but it does use the same gasoline. Thanks for watching 👍👍

[@balderamadondy6102]

Thank you very much 😊

[@markbrown7449]

I know it cost more, but whatcha think on 50:1 premix ?

[@BoilerDan1]

I think that’s actually a good idea! 👍

[@Hankjr76]

How did you know to go to 50:1 after the 35:1 ?

[@BoilerDan1]

The manufacturer: Below is copied from the website: And the mixing ratio of the fuel HANGKAI two-stroke outboards fuel used for lead-free number from 90 to 93 two-stroke gasoline and gas oil (TC-W3) mixed oil. The new machine in the running and fuel oil during the volume ratio of 25: 1 (ie, the oil content of 4% gasoline); After the run-in fuel and oil volume ratio of 50: 1 (ie, the oil content of 2% gasoline) Here’s their website link: m.hang-kai.com/en/ Kinda hard to figure it out, but if you click around you can find guides on troubleshooting and more. Thanks for watching 👍👍

[@zachd1404]

Hey BoilerDan1, don't know if you'll see this but I just purchased this motor and you seem to know a lot about it. I've put in the gear oil and the 35:1 mix of gas. When I go to start it it will only start with the choke in the "on" position and when I rev the throttle right after pulling the cord. I have to keep revving it to keep the motor running. The second I release the throttle it dies. Any idea what I should do next to get this motor running right? Also should I be using 89 or higher octane gas?

[@BoilerDan1]

Simple answer: The choke is marked wrong for the English reading. “ON” actually means that the choke is off and the motor is on or in the run position. You probably don’t need to use the choke very often. So keep it in the ON position and go for a spin! To confirm what I am saying, look at the carburetor air intake. When you turn the choke to off, if covers the air intake with a plastic disc, cutting down the air supply (thusly choking the motor). Bonus: your pull cord will last a lot longer if you rub in some bees wax into the cord!

[@BoilerDan1]

Let me add to my first answer: The company recommends lead-free number from 90 to 93 octane. I just purchased the highest octane as I didn’t use that much fuel. The motor will also run better once you go to the 50:1 fuel mixture. Many stores now carry pre-mixed cans. A little pricey but convenient. Let me know that you got my two replies. Thanks for watching 👍

[@zachd1404]

@@BoilerDan1 that’s great info on the choke. Thank you! So I just happen to have been starting the motor with choke in the ON position, and leaving it in the ON position. I can only keep the motor running from there if I continuously rev it. If I let go of the throttle it dies. Is this just how the motor works? I’ll make sure to fill it with 90 octane or higher.

[@BoilerDan1]

You only need the choke when engine is cold or has been empty of fuel for a while. The only thing that the choke does is shut off the air supply so it sucks in raw fuel. You would never operate it with the choke as it won’t run very long…. As you found out.👍

[@zachd1404]

​@@BoilerDan1After watching some other videos I've noticed my problem. The throttle is supposed to stick at the idle position (slightly turned). My throttle always tracks back to 0 throttle. Which is why when I let go the engine turns off. I will need to figure out how to tighten down the throttle handle so it sticks in the idle position when I let go.​ Can you confirm that the throttle is suppose to stick in an idle position and not turn all the way back to zero throttle?

[@jimdombroski]

how long does the motor run at full throttle on a single tank?

[@BoilerDan1]

I’ve not really tested it. But am guessing 1-1/2 hour.... probably a little more? I usually filled the tank about 3/4 full and would take the small mixing can full along with me. Then I knew that I would have enough to get back once the 3/4 tank was empty 😉. Sorry I couldn’t be more specific. Thanks for watching 👍. It seems very similar to a standard lawnmower.... I’d fill it every other time I cut.... not very precise an answer, sorry 🙃

[@goatman702]

Mine said 30:1 in the manual

[@BoilerDan1]

I agree with your manual at 30:1. The 25:1 will run even dirtier. That being said, the Hangkai manufacturer web site says the following: And the mixing ratio of the fuel HANGKAI two-stroke outboards fuel used for lead-free number from 90 to 93 two-stroke gasoline and gas oil (TC-W3) mixed oil. The new machine in the running and fuel oil during the volume ratio of 25: 1 (ie, the oil content of 4% gasoline); After the run-in fuel and oil volume ratio of 50:1 Here’s the website link: You’ll need to click the lines in the upper left corner. Then click news. m.hang-kai.com/en/

[@johnanoe471]

IS A YADAO THE SAME AS HANGKIA?

[@BoilerDan1]

There are several motors that are the same or very similar, I'm not 100% sure if the YADAO is, but I would guess that it is?

[@carolinabermafrdjdrio92]

Enqe parte de colombia com sigo los repuestos delos motores HaNGkAI

[@keithleboeuf9036]

How long did it take to come in after you ordered it?

[@BoilerDan1]

When I purchased mine it was around Christmas, and I received it within a couple of weeks. That's the good news.... The bad news is, I looked up the seller and they currently do not have anything for sale. Also on eBay, the prices are very VERY high right now. The motor is not worth spending the kind of prices that I've seen. I'm guessing it's due to the current trade climate between the US and China. So at this time, unless you can find one at the $200 or less Priceline, I wouldn't consider buying one. Mine was under $200, but again, that was off season.... Thanks for watching. Wish I could provide better news.

[@BillyGirlardo]

This is your12th and last video I see covering your Hankai O.B. from way back on 4/11/19; I'm going to read them in order but I hope it started back up okay cuz I have a virgin one now also! Too bad your Hankai's don't make up a separate Playlist here on KZbin < hint hint > :-)

[@BoilerDan1]

Actually there is a playlist of 16 segments. Here’s the link: Hangkia 3.6 video Reviews & Repairs collection This is an edit as first try didn’t have the link: kzbin.info/aero/PLjMZtm2hvqrOIvLcah1u1V45Y_R-AKeqm

[@BoilerDan1]

Sorry: try this link: kzbin.info/aero/PLjMZtm2hvqrOIvLcah1u1V45Y_R-AKeqm

[@BillyGirlardo]

@@BoilerDan1 Way better than me having a bunch of browser tabs open , so thx so much! BTW, even after seeing that this last link does open a playlist, I still don't see it when I click on your profile pic and then select Playlists vs Videos (which is how I found them all the 1st time around) - so I assume that means nobody else is seeing this Playlist either...

[@BillyGirlardo]

Glad to see it started up on 3rd pull after a garage kept winter season! And yea, number one reason for an ob to stop peeing is those bloody impellers; at least they're easy to replace by dropping the lower unit and pouring in some new gear oil while you're at it. Peace.

[@BoilerDan1]

I’m not sure how to get the playlist to kick in? I wasn’t aware of the issue, so I’ll try to figure it out. Thanks for letting me know! 👍👍

[@joshuaswanson3068]

What size boats y’all putting this on I need a motor for my 14/32 Jon boat ?

[@BoilerDan1]

I had it on an inflatable raft with a plywood floor. It was sluggish do to the sponginess of the raft. It’s not a high speed motor for sure. Maybe a viewer can add more?