Bonding System and Zincs

[@davidhall1779]

The only video I’ve seen about the bonding system on the boat. Thank you!

[@tiaramisu]

Thank you for watching. I failed to mention on that video the use of a volt ohm meter to check for continuity between bonded pieces. Cheers!

[@bobshearer7345]

Like much, and am impressed. McGiver would be proud of you. Soon to be needing to know all of this stuff as I await a new sailboat with no experience in saltwater boat ownership. The video of your work show very progressive efforts toward reducing the impacts of electrolysis but doesn't explain clearly the consequences of not doing anything proactive. For all of us newbies, I'd simply recommend you clearly explain them to motivate us even more. Thank you well done!! I'll now be watching your updates. Bob

[@tiaramisu]

Congratulations on your sail boat purchase. Any metal on a boat that is in contact with raw seawater should have a path to a sacrificial anode such as zinc. In this way the zinc will deteriorate and not the metal part that is in contact with seawater such as propellers color shafts, rudders, rudder shafts, heat exchangers, oil coolers, etc. Thanks for watching. Cheers!

[@howardmiller7716]

Just a tip, the connections on your bonding system at each component should be on the same screw. The thru hull fitting should not be a part of the path from what I have read.

[@Fishwish24]

Fishwish here..thanks neighbor 👍👍

[@ThailandAmazing]

Those clamps are wrong. You should use a spring clamp. Regular clamps loose pressure as rubber compresses. Springs apply a constant pressure hot or cold

[@diverd2162]

The rust is from engine hatch actuator motor housing not really marine grade but pretty obvious like a big arrow

[@philipharris3287]

Good evening, could you please tell me what gauge wire has been used for the bonding system? Many thanks Phil.

[@TBevins]

thanks for the vid!

[@mrwrapper]

Never use thread sealants on anode. It insulates the anode

[@Fishwish24]

It doesn't. You can check with a meter.

[@serenitynoobosity5905]

Does the negative bus bar need to be grounded or bonded to the metal on the boat (mine is fiberglass, so it will be hard to find a spot), or is the fact that it is connected to both negative batteries terminals enough to create an acceptable ground?

[@tiaramisu]

My electrical grounds were to the engines. To be clear, this is a bonding system in this video that is in place to inhibit electrolysis of the metal parts of the boat below the water line and inside the boat. The bonding system does not have anything to do with the electrical system in most cases. Thanks for watching! Cheers!

[@robormiston2841]

I didn't see a bilge blower get turned on before starting?

[@tiaramisu]

If I've had the engine hatches open for a significant amount of time and do not smell any gas fumes I would not use the blowers. Good point however, many people don't consider gas fumes before they start up their boats.

[@ericjfontana]

You should switch out the arms for Pantographic ones. Much better (I have the same boat as yours).

[@ericjfontana]

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[@stevefenn758]

Why not just get on with what people want to see? We don't want to see your walk to the boat!!! Get on with it!!!

[@tiaramisu]

Indeed. Good point. Thanks for watching.

[@traumagas123]

WASted time

[@edwiser3547]

Less of the commentary and more showing boat parts. Instead of watching you while you talk it might be more valuable to show the component you are talking about. This would expedite the video since you are going to have to show the component eventually.