BondTech CHT nozzle - better layer adhesion on slower 3D printers? (Ender3 or Prusa MK3)

[@GeekDetour]

Excellent idea Igor - I am not really into this frenzy for speed. Quality, on the other hand, interests me a lot!

[@DavidT778]

I appreciate the premises of this test...I don't really want quicker printing, I want high quality parts that have good strength. The hardened nozzle results were really valuable, Thankyou.

[@conorstewart2214]

Including the details of how you print and test is very important, yes a lot of people might skip it but for anyone actually interested in the results it is very important. Some of the 3D printing channels here on KZbin reveal nothing about their print setup, print settings or test methods. Which makes it very annoying when they come out and make untrue statements, like claiming a filament is rubbish without viewers knowing if it is printed properly. Like someone I saw claiming nylon had very low layer adhesion when they likely didn’t print it hot enough and didn’t use an enclosure. I asked someone about their printing method and if they calibrate each filament they test, like doing a temperature tower and printing it with optimal settings to get best results since their results for more difficult filaments tend to be a lot worse than others. They could print fine and get good results with PLA and PLA plus but always got low results from higher temperature filaments that need enclosures (most likely because they are printing colder than they should and without enclosures) and when I asked they just got defensive and refused to even answer if they did temperature towers to find the best temperature for the filament. Just made excuses and said I shouldn’t trust anyones results anyway when I suggested their results would be a lot more useful for viewers if they knew that the filaments were printed correctly and for optimal results when they appear in the videos to want to do things right and have a decent testing setup but won’t even answer questions about or show how they print the test pieces or take any suggestions, that just makes me think that they know they aren’t printing the high temperature filaments right and don’t care. This was from a channel that printed firearm parts and made bold claims like nylons were all rubbish. If you are going to do something then do it right, which is what you do, you show the printing including if you used an enclosure, do temperatures towers, show and explain your testing methods and any changes and for the most part your results line up with other high quality 3D printing channels and even the expected material properties which make your results reliable and useful, unlike some channels where it is pretty clear they just chucked it on the printer, printed it with the first settings that kind of work and then test it and get bad results.

[@M3D1AC]

thanks for speeding out the breaking, it was amazing this time I enjoyed it :D

[@Mark_5150]

I wouldn't have guessed the nozzles would make that much of a difference in strength. thanks!

[@ianhoolihan2396]

I admire your scientific approach. Very interesting discovery that the abrasive nozzle at 10C higher is so superior in the CHT configuration

[@karabrandsen4200]

Thank you. Excellent video. Would definitely be interesting to see the comparison of layer adhesion for hardened steel nozzles vs brass at various temperatures. I use hardened steel nozzles for everything and I noticed on my machine even with a 10 deg increase in hotend temp the layer adhesion was very weak. After watching this it might be the hardened steel nozzle I am using.

[@griffgear3d]

Very interesting research as always.

[@aaron12693]

Thanks for the video! I use a .6mm cht nozzle on my mk3s, but I use it to print faster. I print functional parts, usually at .3 or .35mm layer height, and with .8mm wide lines. Still, I have only found it to make a difference on large parts, particularly without a lot of detail so that acceleration isn't the limiting factor.

[@baddan]

Thanks for the video I'll keep the brass nozzle Great and impecable work!

[@igiannakas]

Fantastic work! 👏🏻

[@aberodriguez4149]

Cool experiment as usual I learned that I prefer slow and detailed is more in line of interest to me until I shift my interest to 3D printing more on the side of mechanical structures with durability and survival. None the less very intriguing experiments to bad the neighbors don't appreciate the value of your experiments. XD Thanks for sharing and keep on printing.

[@dekurvajo]

Exactly the question i had in my mind! Thanks for the test!

[@VolkanTaninmis]

For ender 3 variants: copper heat block + thermal paste around heater and nozzle = 2.5 times extrusion performance. Use this with all metal hotend or bimetallic throat.

[@michaelrobinson9643]

Valuable findings and well executed sir. thanks you.

[@stevedegeorge726]

Really good info. As I do not really print fast I had wondered if I should try the CHT.

[@chatroux399]

I would never think the difference was so big . Can you test with ruby and tungsten as well ? Great work 👍

[@fluxx1]

I was about to suggest to you the same topic for a video, but you beat me to it! Great! The results are a bit surprising as well. If you do a follow-up, I'd love to see how PETG would do. Also, chinese knockoff nozzles too. I've been printing with them for some time now, they work great, but I have no way of measuring accurately (like you). Also, you could measure the weight of the samples to insure the same flow rate was achieved.

[@daliasprints9798]

Have you considered that the CHT might partly be compensating for temperature too low to get a good melt, even at low speeds? I've come to view conventional wisdom about appropriate hotend temps as pretty much wrong, especially at high speeds (I use 260-270 for PLA at high speeds) but maybe at lower speeds too.

[@lennynnnnnn]

No Bozzle Nozzle :( Also, I think PLA is typically good with respect to layer adhesion. I would be curious about improvements in ABS and PC!

[@kimmotoivanen]

I might skip bending and twist tests, but I almost always watch breaking and droop tests. Rope pulley could also provide silent breaking force :)

[@landroveraddict2457]

I have an Ender 5 and the CHT nozzle allows me to increase the print speed and flow by 20% with a temperature increase of 10 degrees C.

[@kimmotoivanen]

Was it all because of raised temperature?

[@landroveraddict2457]

@@kimmotoivanen CNC Kitchen did a side by side comparison of the original and the clone. The clone won. I think this is because the clone uses a copper insert to create the three channels, the original is drilled brass.

[@sovahc]

Yes, please make hardened steel and brass comparison. By how much need to be temperature raised exactly?

[@hieroben]

As always: nice and interesting video! (Hope this convinces the algorithm too.)

[@reinux]

I think the hotend is the bottleneck for Ender 3/Prusa clones. I upgraded mine to a Phaetus Dragonfly, and combined with the CHT nozzle, it prints much better and faster, and my parts seem to be watertight more consistently. My bottleneck now seems to be the heating element, which improved marginally when I upgraded from 40W to 50W. Klipper's duty cycle display seems to agree.

[@venko3211]

I bought cht .8 nozzle what is the best setting for Ender 3 v2

[@daliasprints9798]

Ender 3 doesn't have to be a slower printer once you put a CHT on it. 😁

[@conorstewart2214]

The ender 3 is very much limited by its frame, it doesn’t handle high speeds or accelerations well at all, so it will always be a slow printer but a higher flow nozzle or hot end does mean you can get more volumetric flow rate out of it and print faster without increasing the movement speeds.

[@daliasprints9798]

@@conorstewart2214 Yeah about that.. kzbin.infobHdYWj3FI1c?feature=share 😈

[@kimmotoivanen]

If it's 0.4mm CHT, it will (at least my clone was)

[@melangkoh4184]

there are some cheap CHT clones on ALi express for 2eu each...not exact copies, they have a lose copper core in the nozzle...some people claim they are at least as good as the originals.

[@hd-be7di]

I got a CHT nozzle for a Dragon HF for Ender 3 with 0.8 nozzle & it's wayyyy overkill. I use hardened steel nozzle with HF hotend now

[@NM-wd7kx]

How do you find the HF? What filaments are you printing with? I've had repeated issues with heatcreep, so I have to use a V6 style cold end & massive overkill fans to keep it cool with PLA & PETG.

[@hd-be7di]

@@NM-wd7kx I designed a custom mount that cools it with a 5015 blower fan. I was aware of it having heat creep issues before getting it so that was taken into account. No heat creep issues after 300 hours of testing so far the performance and quality is excellent! For filaments I print with both pla and petg.

[@themountain59]

Very interesting results....but come on...50 bucks for a nozzle 🙄