Boom with Lost PLA Bronze Hardware S2-E65

In this episode (S2-E65) of the Art of Boat Building, Boat Builder Bob Emser show how he cast a bronze gooseneck using the Lost PLA method. Lost PLA is much like Lost Wax casting except PLA filament from 3D printed parts is melted (lost) out of the mold and then replaced with bronze.The bronze gooseneck is what attaches the boom to the mast. In addition Bob makes the tapered boom out of Sitka Spruce.
“If you’re going to make it, make it beautiful.”
Bob Emser
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[@jamesbain2791]

I looked forward to the weekend knowing that this episode was likely to air. Bob, you did not disappoint. Thank you.

[@horatiohornblower868]

I keep repeating your advice “if you’re gonna make it, make it beautiful” to my grandchildren. Thx, Bob, for sharing your great gifts with the world.

[@michaelc.3812]

Bob, you do such a great job, both in your boat craftsmanship and your video production. My selfish thinking is that you would publish weekly videos. Thank you so much.

[@sakumar]

Wow! That spar-maker's gauge is simple and ingenious!

[@scottgorman7166]

Yes sir you made it beautiful....Lee Valley Tools has a nice set of bow sanders which would be perfect for sanding the spars and booms. You can use any grit paper as the job requires. Those bronze fittings really make the wood pop.

[@rickestabrook4987]

Breathtaking. I particularly enjoy seeing the slotted screws align along the length of the spar. Gorgeous work.

[@thomasarussellsr]

Those "attention to detail" details make a difference to us OCD folks.

[@davidslor7103]

I believe the only addition to perfecting this further, is adding a couple of drops of varnish in the predrilled screw holes before setting in the screws. Thus further limiting the remote possibility of any water ever entering and damaging the wood through the holes. Just my 2 cents from my late dad and I. This is beautiful meticolous work! And I really appreciate the zen pace!

[@thomasarussellsr]

@@davidslor7103 I concur. Sealing the wood inside the screw holes is that little extra step that adds to longevity. (Added bonus, the laquer also lubes the screw when wet and acts as a screw locker when dried around the screw.)

[@davidslor7103]

@@thomasarussellsr Excactly!

[@donwilliams3626]

The spar makers gauge is a useful jig. I'm going to make one and give it a test drive. I appreciate your taking the time to share your tips with us.

[@lacleman9394]

Worthy of Swiss precision

[@stanmoderate4460]

Bob, I am dreading you finishing this boat! I hope you have another project planned.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

No worries Stan, already got the plans for the next couple of boats. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob

[@Tammy-un3ql]

Gorgeous work.✔✔✔✔

[@jonny-b4954]

Hahaha from thumbnail I though it was a BROOM. I was going to say.... man, that's some beautiful hardware for that socket. Ha

[@4englishlies875]

Bob the boom is looking great!! Well done. You handled the power planer like a champ, I always seem to mess up with that tool and anyone that can work with it is a Demi-God in my book...lol. I always take to much and always in a hurry it seems. If you ever want tips on. Making oval poles and what not ask me....lol great video thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@danoyes1]

Dang dude, spill, I'm about to start shaping spars for the Alpha Beachcomber, I was going to go with a rectangular section mast and boom but a oval section could be pretty sweet...

[@davidc6510]

Great episode Bob. Thanks for sharing!

[@michaelc.3812]

Bob, I appreciate your humility and self-deprecation. It show just how wise and truly gifted you are.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Thanks Michael

[@bulletproofpepper2]

Thanks for sharing!

[@TrapShooter68]

Love your work. Each and every piece a work of art. Just one thing. I would expect some kind of protective coating on your bronzework. Why not?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

I will wax the bronze before it’s in the elements. My experience with protective coatings (X-I-M 900 clear coat I found to be the best) is that they are only good for so long. Then one has to strip the old coat off, polish and re-coat. I think much easier to just re-polish and wax each season. Thanks your question and watching!

[@glencrandall7051]

Great progress comes in little steps. The steps may be small but they are fascinating. 👍👍Looking forward the the last step with great anticipation. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂🙂

[@drop_dtuned6167]

When Bob posted this thumbnail, I thought here are more examples of the processes already demonstrated. But no, here comes ultra modern casting with 3D printing. Boy was I surprised.

[@bobsails9750]

Thank you.

[@mattevans-koch9353]

Another piece of art competed on this classy boat. Thank you Bob for sharing this.

[@brianwhitehouse8380]

Thanks Bob. Another great one.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.

[@darkhorsegarage9623]

T shirt idea . The art of sweeping and buying clamps.

[@belledetector]

Wow. looking good, and so close to splashing. Beautiful work

[@petermarsh4993]

Dear Bob, the two casting methods using wax or PLA are just brilliant. Probably out of reach for me in my home workshop but worth aiming to achieve. Compared to sand casting, much smoother. Cheers.

[@MCsCreations]

Really amazing work, Bob! Beautiful pieces!!! 😃 The idea of 3d printing to make molds is brilliant! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@garyfroeschner2523]

good stuff

[@Edivision]

Sublime craftsmanship. Kudos.

[@rick91443]

Beautiful, as usual, and always such a pleasure to watch...cheers...rr Normandy, Fra.

[@johnwestacott9455]

Always a delight!

[@garyfairbrother5532]

You make every task on this boat extremely enjoyable to watch. I’m a hobby woodworker and in the past, when I have had to taper a workpiece, I have always started at the (smaller) end and planed increasingly longer segments from that end to the other (larger) end of the taper. Kind of hard to explain, lol. It seems in the video that you worked from the larger to the smaller end of the taper. Is either way OK, or should I,switch for best results. Can’t wait to see the mast. I’ve watched A to A do theirs and will be standing by for your version. Best regards!

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Gary, I don't think it matters. I did plane both ways depending on the grain to avoid any possible tear out. Thanks for watching!

[@tomtruesdale6901]

That boom turned out beautiful Bob. I think that the "lost PLA" method of casting will soon become the norm for small scale productions and one offs. Great job, just wished I lived closer as I have always loved visiting Mystic Seaport but Texas to there is a bit far right now.

[@mattlewandowski73]

With the 3d printers, you can do lost wax, lost PLA, or PLA pattern mold casting. Each method has its advantages and disadvantages. Resin printers have similar options available with even finer detail available, but are limited to smaller pieces. They can however do bulk prints easier... Then there is laser sintering which can process small bulk jobs easily but the printers are not really available at a hobbyist level, though a number of companies are offering print services. Both resin and laser sintering are excellent for smaller hardware pieces that you need a number of. Yes... 3d printing is absolutely the future of metal and ceramic casting.

[@WilliamAlanPhoto]

I love watching your channel. Thank you.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Thank you!

[@RappinIggyG]

Ahhh, the screw heads 😊

[@billmeldrum2509]

Looking fantastic! Very interesting episode. 🇨🇦

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Thank you! Cheers!

[@inventiveowl395]

23:53 - I couldn't agree more. I'm only 22, but I've already learned the hard way.. Either your work is going to get screwed up, or you'll get hurt.

[@thomasarussellsr]

Congrats on learning that early. Hopefully it didn't cost you any injuries or important project pieces. A dull blade will cut/injure you much quicker than a sharp one. Much more effort is needed with a dull tool, which increases the chances of a tool slip up.

[@inventiveowl395]

@@thomasarussellsr Oh it cost me both of those, although, more injuries than work pieces. However, as I'm the impulsive type of person who first does and *then* thinks (not to mention the lack of self-preservation instinct), I'm still kinda asking for it... ':D

[@thomasarussellsr]

@@inventiveowl395 yeah, I've got my share of scars, from the shop, the kitchen and the wilderness. I've caught kickbacks from chainsaws, tablesaws, and chairbacked felling trees, side kicks from glancing blows from splitting firewood, and lost the side of my thumb with vegetable slicers in the kitchen. Not to mention stabbed myself with screwdrivers and dull knives. Once I took the time to learn sharpening my accidents went way down, and the results of quality of my work went considerably better. In both the shop, kitchen, yard, and field/wilderness. Taking the time to learn a better way and the time to sharpen even makes the task itself go more quickly, usually.

[@acraftman2823]

Tbh , I thought you might break out some papyrus or saw grass for finial sanding lol! I am looking forward to the mast ! Thanks for posting hopefully you will be finished before it hits 90F in your shop.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

You and me both! unfortunately it already hit 90 last week. Thanks for watching.

[@thomasarussellsr]

Strange, I didn't see him working on a "finial". Could you supply a time stamp? Edit: dang it... never mind... you had an auto correct get you... (I think) I believe that was supposed to be "final" sanding, right? So never mind my requested time stamp. 😞

[@KiwiMC99]

Great craftmanship. Great explanations/stories as you go. Great video editing - all the good bits. I'm a new sub from A2A - came for Victoria, stayed for the quality of what you do. Cheers.

[@svpearlsailacapegeorgesail4758]

Great video, I love that your build is more than woodworking, And I wonder came up with that sparmakers tool?!

[@olatedin]

I would go for a slightly longer boom. Spars are notorious for being too short and most (all?) rules call for maximum length of leech/luff of sail, not the spar itself. Leave an extra couple of inches will give you some room för a trim adjustment configuration that won't be totally crambed out on the far edge of the boom

[@svpearlsailacapegeorgesail4758]

My boom is 17' and I was thinking that the boom was too long!

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

The original design for this boat was done 108 years ago by N.G. Herreshoff, The great yacht designer. In 1985 another yacht designer of note, Joel White, designed the Haven 12 1/2 off of the Herreshoff 12 1/2. Changing only from a full keel boat to a centerboard sailboat. I've been following all the critical design elements as designed! Thousands of these boat have been built and sailed with the 11'-11" boom for over one hundred years. I have had the pleasure of sailing both a Herreshoff 12 1/2 and a Haven 12 1/2. With all do respect I must disagree with your suggestion. However, when or if you build a Haven 12 1/2 you can do what you like. My boat will follow a long tradition of a very successful boat, and "is nearly universally acclaimed as one of the finest small boats of all time." en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herreshoff_12%C2%BD

[@drxym]

I was wondering if you'd do lost PLA some time. Most of the shapes seem kind of simple & geometric, probably as easy to make the old way as any other, or in lost wax. Still, lost PLA is a really cool way of producing complex, repeatable parts. I think you would be better to make the layer height smaller to reduce the layer lines - the stepping visible in those prints.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Not sure what you mean by (wondering if you'd do lost PLA some time) These part were cast by Lost PLA. Are you asking for a more detailed video on the process? These small part where perfect candidates of the PLA process. Small parts are hard to cast in sand casting and geometric shape are difficult to produce with out an intermediate mold from a part. The layers are an unavoidable part of the 3D printing. However, the PLA is easily sanded smooth before casting.

[@drxym]

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding just my mind running through a few thoughts one after the other. Most lost PLA castings on KZbin usually involve complex parts or sculptures where design & repeatability is a requirement. e.g. Robinson Foundry channel does a lot of them. I was wondering here if you chose lost PLA for a reason over wax since the parts looked like they were fairly geometric and could have been done that way.

[@SteelDoesMyWill]

If you can find a Single Flute Countersink they work much better on metal than three or four flute, they won't leave that weird pentagon type distortion in the concave cut (more round, seats the screws more flush). I wish I could give you a good source and a name brand but I get mine from an Industrial Surplus place so its hit or miss.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Luke, I wish you had a good source. I’ve purchased several single flute CS. All have been less than impressive. If you do find a source or know the maker of your please DM me. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob

[@jimm9052]

Think it's worthwhile investing and learning how to fabricate patterns for casting using a 3D printer?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Jim, I think whether you burn to patterns out or using them with sand casting it is worth looking into. I’m still learning the modeling software, however in the meantime I’ve found or paid others to model the parts for me. Thanks for watching! Cheers, Bob

[@kensolee]

Thought it was the greeks who tapered columns but I could be mistaken.

[@AaronBrand]

Does a spar maker ever use a spokeshave? Or are those only for spokemakers?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Aaron, Yes they do. I find a spoke shave a bit more aggressive. This is why I used a block plane on the soft spruce.

[@petterandersson7429]

Sweet. So is the mast solid or hollow?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Thanks Petter, Well we'll have to wait and see. What's your guess?

[@petterandersson7429]

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding I'm hoping for hollow so I can watch you do the "bird mouth" router technic. A 16 foot mast could be pretty heavy even if it is spruce.

[@thomasarussellsr]

@@petterandersson7429 hollow would be great for weight, especially for a removable mast for transporting the boat to and from home to water if it won't be left water-side. Also, hollow is great if any electronics like a mast top light or nav-sensor will be in play. Solid would be stronger, but as you said, would be heavier. It would also have its negatives to portability of the vessel. Having to raise and lower the heavier solid mast for transport would definitely be a negative. The builder/owner (Bob) would have to weigh the pros and cons and make the choice. I guess we'll see next time.

[@drop_dtuned6167]

Looking at what’s left of the board, my guess would be hollow.

[@thomasarussellsr]

Beautifully done, Bob. Sure would have liked to have seen how you rounded that egg on the fore end of the boom, but, oh well. Everything looked like it fit pretty well. Any more filing on the bronze, or fitting the boom to the bronze, when the time came? Did you drill for the screws then soak the screw holes with varnish or some other sealant before mounting the hardware? I feel these are important questions for the longevity of the wood. Thanks, Thomas

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Thomas, I simply rounded the ends with a hand rasp. No extra fitting on the bronze. Steve did a great job modeling the parts and thy fit perfectly. The screws are coated in wax as I've done before. However, your suggestion is a good one. As alway thanks for watching and your consistent support with leaving comments. Cheers, Bob

[@thomasarussellsr]

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Thanks

[@fonhollohan2908]

Hey Bob, Just out of curiosity, I thought that extra metal that is the gate shaped like a H is for a purpose. I noticed you ground that metal out, I believe it is not just a gate but it is there for reinforcement of your work pieces. If you ground them out won't that weaken the work pieces? Of course I could be wrong but that is my thoughts on the matter, what do you think? what are your thoughts? Nice work! Bob. As always.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Hi Fon, the H you're referring to is just a gate for the metal to flow into the part. It doesn't have anything to do with the strength of the part. If you look at the plans it does not show that on the finished part. Adding it was purely Steve and my invention to make gating easier on these small parts. Thanks for watching! Bob

[@thomasarussellsr]

It looked like gating for casting to me, but I see your point as well. Only thing with leaving it would be it would catch and hold water and expedite rot in the wood. At least that would make sense in my mind.

[@jorgenr]

Why did you opt for a block plane instead of a bench plane? Seems like it would be nicer to work with. A #4 or so.

[@PaulDeCamp]

BIG Question: those bolts that secure the gooseneck together seem awful thin? They have to withstand a lot of force, especially if your boat is blown over. If any part of the rigging fails I bet on those. Could they not have been overbuilt a little? And, will you carry an extra pair when you are out at sea?

[@nutsmcflurry3737]

I thought it was the Romans that did tapered columns.

[@lunkydog]

I was expecting a mention on grain orientation.

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Indeed, the orientation of the annual rings is vertical. Thanks for watching!

[@thepigwillfly5869]

Nice video. What varnish do you use?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

TotalBoat Lust

[@dennismcintosh4751]

Hexadecagon

[@thomasarussellsr]

Very good. After all, he did include it in the video (in written form as an overlay). What if it was 17 sided? Or 19? Do you know the names for those? (Genuinely interested.)

[@johnfriend240]

Looking at the models I was asking myself about fillets, then saw you added them with wax. Any reason why they were not printed?

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Sketch up is not fillet friendly. It was the way quick solution. I’m currently working with Fusion 360,( fillet friendly), however the learn curve is much steeper.

[@johnfriend240]

@@TheArtofBoatBuilding Roger that! I'm Fusion 360 for my CNC mill...

[@VAdu56]

Ce serait tellement plus simple de travailler en Mètre, centimètres et Millimètres.... que travailler avec f des 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, 1/32 ème de pouce...!!

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Ce serait pour vous. Cependant, les plans du bateau sont en pieds et en pouces. La métrique est-elle plus efficace ? Oui! Aussi étant que je suis aux États-Unis, c'est ce que je sais. Donc, je veux passer beaucoup de temps à convertir, ce n'est pas plus simple de ma part. Comme vous l'avez peut-être remarqué, j'inclus des conversions métriques dans les légendes pour ceux d'entre vous dans d'autres parties du monde.

[@alexnagle575]

My man, you do a great job but ALWAYS use wax on your screws. Mix beeswax and paint thinner, use a toilet ring, but USE WAX! Future you will be glad that you did, trust me!

[@TheArtofBoatBuilding]

Alex you need to watch my other videos I alway use wax. I just did it off camera this time. In this video kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4bbkKuYnLSkfpo At 23:37 you can see me loading the screws in a toilet wax ring.

[@johnwestacott9455]

Always a delight!