The Path to Model Railroad Nirvana | Boomer Diorama ~ # 248

There are many ways to do things. On the other hand, there are proven methods that work for good reason. If you neglect the basic fundamentals of track wiring on your model railroad you won't experience reliable operations, or much joy operating it, no matter how good it looks.
KZbin
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[@What_If_We_Tried]

Really appreciate you sharing your modeling insights and wisdom.

[@boomerdiorama]

I appreciate that!

[@mariahojnacki9174]

Nirvana what a great place to be. Thanks Boomer.

[@boomerdiorama]

You bet!

[@stephenhottle6783]

Nice shot of the superintendent 🐈👍🏻

[@boomerdiorama]

Ah yes . . . Miss Dusty is on the clock today. ;-)

[@FarlandHowe]

It is always worth the effort to explain that concept. People who had a train set when young, may not know about it when they start their first real layout. cheers, Rob

[@boomerdiorama]

We all did this. Some still do for certain reasons as well - like under the Christmas tree. ;-)

[@BrooksMoses]

Yup. And in my case, even though I knew about the general idea, there were new things I learned from the explanation. It hadn't occurred to me to isolate the turnouts on separate feeders with insulated rail joiners, but the idea that doing that makes it easier to figure out where shorts are if they happen makes a lot of sense.

[@jasonminier6782]

Thank you for this. I have a difficult time understanding how electricity works. This makes it make more sense.

[@boomerdiorama]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Riochamasouthern]

Keep Alive’s have been game changers.

[@boomerdiorama]

Oh yes, they certainly are game changers. Especially for switching layouts and slow running.

[@BrooksMoses]

Yup. Though they also can be a lot like 4-wheel-drive: They let you get stuck deeper in the mess. Without a keepalive, you can jostle the model back a little to get back to live track (and you know exactly where the dead spot is), but with a keepalive, you may be well into the dead track by the time your train stops. Of course, if you've got a whole stretch of dead track rather than a tiny spot or two, you've got bigger problems. I discovered this one on a little-used branch on my club's layout that was desperately in need of cleaning, and my train ended up well down the hill past the point where the track started being too dirty to conduct.

[@mikedurhan9941]

A simple explanation of a great concept. Thanks.

[@boomerdiorama]

You are welcome!

[@andrewpalm2103]

Since my layout is only 1 x 6 feet I installed only one power connection to the track and rely on the Peco spring switch points on my two turnouts to route power. After 4 years, so far so good (knock on wood), but I do live in fear that I may have to retro-fit a proper power buss. Since I run at very slow speeds I converted to DCC for the improved motor control and as a result discovered Keep-Alives, which are in 3 of my 4 DCC locos. Clean track and Keep-Alives together have given me excellent reliability, especially with the short-wheelbase locos I use. Cheers from Wisconsin!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for sharing! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@AndyDorsch]

Very good demonstration of correct wiring of your model railroad. The great thing about electricity its always the same... positive/negative...keep it documented! I found making a wiring diagram is of equal or more value than having a trackplan!!! - Andy

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks Andy.😁

[@Christiane069]

You are so right on perfect wiring. Model railroad electrical 101 is critical to get right from the get go.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes indeed.

[@SD40Fan_Jason]

I absolutely endorse this segment! The plastic insulators may not be truly necessary unless you are specifically intending to isolate your tracks into blocks. Ideal for turnouts, crossovers, grade crossings or anywhere that the two poles cross each other in theory! But as Boomer pointed out; depending on the track to provide your electrical current is just careless. Even on the prototype, where jointed rail is still used, they electrically bond each joint because the joint bars and the rails themselves are poor, poor conductors. Yes, they are steel and they CAN conduct electricity. But if you've ever seen what it looks like when a joint bar is removed, it's packed like a powder keg with rust. And while it can still conduct millions of volts of static electricity, getting a 32-volt audible range signal through it is next to impossible. Also, I really love that you supply your lights and accessories with a separate bus. That is practical and useful, for the same reasons. The only time it might be an issue is if you want to have a switch board that controls the lights and the houses, etc. independently. In that case, you would simply run a switched leg down with your bus wire to provide power when switched. And if you have an issue where lights dim slightly when something is turned on, try using an isolated return circuit wire. If you switch the negative leg, then you want a positive return leg. Or vice versa, if you switch the positive leg, then you want a negative return leg. Neither polarity matters on low voltage DC as long as you are interrupting the circuit with a switch. Some folks are hardcore at switching only the positive leg. Those folks probably spent some time working in automotive electrical where everything grounded out to the chassis and had a negative chassis ground. And while that concept is acceptable for lights and cigarette lighters, if you have any electronics you value beyond a nickel, you will power it with a fused positive and a return negative wire. I can tell you it matters in a situation where you are driving your layout with an Arduino, or Raspberry Pi, or some other microcontroller. You will likely switch the negative lead with your electronics and have a positive return leg. Boomer, if it's okay I want to use this segment to show my friends and customers how to wire their layout in the future. I will likely link your video to my website if you say it's okay? Of course I will have to warn them that watching your videos is addictive and can cost them many hours of time they were not expecting to spend while we watch you wave your magic wands and make the layout more stunning each time.

[@SD40Fan_Jason]

I think the ONLY piece I would have to offer additional to your video is just when you note underneath the table your positive and negative leads, you may also wish to mark "Northbound and Southbound" or "East and West" in the case you have a track that goes a long distance and/or completes a circle. While track polarity will always be the same no matter what, you do not want to set yourself up for any cornfield meets if your accessories are related to something like wayside signals.

[@boomerdiorama]

O.K. Sure thing. Not sure if KZbin allows imbedding videos but a link to KZbin should be fine. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes indeed. Thanks for sharing that! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@michaelimpey1407]

Boomer, great little thought provoker on track wiring. I run 3 buses, my track DCC, a 12V DC bus, and a 16V AC Bus, and then the issue of keeping the Colours consistent. Some accessories want 12 volt, some 16 volt - bad purchasing decisions? (But I really wanted them). Thank you for sharing, cheers, and stay safe, Michael

[@boomerdiorama]

Sur thing. Thank you too!😁

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds great!

[@1Nanerz]

Great vid for the electrically impared. 14/2 “Romex” house wiring works great for a buss. Just strip the casing off and scrap the bare copper ground. Same for turnout or accessory buss lines.

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds good! I used lamp cord once many years ago . . . lol.

[@philippeleblanc7293]

I did the same. 14/2 solid wire for the bus, works great and I use 22-24 ga solid phone wire 12:54 for the feeders.

[@BTW...]

Why "scrap" the bare conductor, when it can be used as a common 0V and the insulated conductors used for +15V and +5V ?

[@1Nanerz]

@@BTW... good thinking. I never got to the point of LED structure and layout lighting on my last layout.

[@genejablonski9909]

Basic but very important info. This combined with good track work is the basis for NIRVANA. Thanks

[@boomerdiorama]

I don't even notice issues on my layout and therefore take it for granted that the track work is wired well. It really does make for great running regardless of how it all looks. It needs to feel good to make it fun. Then we can get on with terraforming the layout as we see fit. Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@ainsleyperry5192]

Boomer, I see the boss was around. Now that you've taken the mystery's out of wiring. Can you have a tutoral on rolling stock couplers and wheels. Do you have a fixed standard? So from the cheapest boxcar to the most expensive tanker whatever couplers and wheels they come with. You just change them to the River Road standard. Or do you find that on the shelf layout when your just shunting a few cars around you can use the wheels and couplers they come with? Cheers, Chris Perry. P. S weight would be another one to look at.

[@boomerdiorama]

I usually change out the coupler's and wheel sets after I paint or weather the cars. I like to use the Kadee # 158 couplers. I also like to use the Intermountain semi-scale wheels sets as the treads look more scale especially with tank and hopper cars.

[@herrkiwi3110]

The biggest con in the industry is buying a "model train accessory transformer". I have a laptop power supply for my acc bus powering my point motors 19v DC @ 5A cost $10 NZD best move I ever made. Re track reliability all the best wiring in the world can still be undone by room humidity, I run a dehumidifier and also stopped using isopropyl alcohol for track cleaning, I should rephrase that, I still use isopropyl alcohol to clean the track but I wipe the track down after with a small amount of kerosene (non-polar) across the rails then wipe that off with a dry cloth, massive improvement in reliability and the need to reclean ! Cheers. Thanks so much as always Mr Boomer.

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds awesome. I try to keep my track clean with a piece of wood sometimes as well. ;-)

[@garyspencer-salt4336]

You are 100% correct with the kero; a surgically clean track will not provide smooth operation. It would be best to have a wetting agent after cleaning the track mechanically. I suggested a wipe with WD40 or proper electronic agents such as Iniox or CRC26 to my customers.

[@shaunhuckstepp7531]

I've gone through the process of using all these products and found none of them really work. Until I was at an exhibition and I asked one of the layout operators what they use on their track, he mentioned CRC 2-26 , that was 15 years ago and Im still using it today , my layout is in the garage so its opened to the elements unlike a dedicated room. I can leave the layout for 6 months come back spray a drop on each of the locos wheels run around the layout and be done in 5 minute without wiping the track . It works every time never looked back since , give it a go you won't be disappointed thought this might be of some help

[@BrooksMoses]

@@shaunhuckstepp7531 : Oh, interesting! Going to have to try that, I think.

[@shaunhuckstepp7531]

@@BrooksMoses Nothing to lose except endless ours of cleaning track , sounds good to me LOL

[@205004gs]

Thanks Boomer! Now I can reduce the amount of soldering to join rails by using insulated connectors and having feeders for each section of track as opposed to seeing big globs of solder at each joint which I see on a lot of layouts. No more stalling, and dead spots! Great explanation! 👍👍

[@boomerdiorama]

I do solder some rail, like an extension, etc. where you deem it necessary. However, most of my track sections are isolated with redundant feeders for reliability and trouble free running. The one disadvantage to this method is a "cold solder" that drops off. But I eliminate this with a second pair of feeders when I solder up the droppers.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes indeed. I add redundant droppers in case of the odd cold solder that slips past quality control. ;-)

[@FHollis-gw4cc]

Oh how I hate those suitcase connectors! I have a bus of 12 gauge wire and use 18 for feeders, which are soldered to the bottom of each rail so I don't have any solder globs visible. The 12 g bus is sectioned with terminal blocks every 4 to 5 feet. Positive on one side of the layout and negative on the other. I connect the bus to one end of the terminal block, which has a jumper, and the other end goes to the next terminal block. All the drops go to the terminal blocks. That way I can trouble shoot any piece of track by simply disconnecting the rails in question.

[@boomerdiorama]

Personally, I do not ever use "suitcase" connectors. I just mentioned them because I know many do. Cheers!

[@derz-crackmodellbahnvideosinsp]

You call it BUS, we call it a Ringleitung😊 ..."✌️🤝👍" ...Greetings, Olli

[@boomerdiorama]

O.K. ;-) . . . . awesome! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@brucec954]

Thats why I put Current Keepers in all my engines even though it's more expensive and can be difficult to find room. With Sound and DCC, even a momentary disruption will reset the decoder and stop the sound even if the engine didn't completely stop (flywheels). I think the NMRA screwed up by not having a CC requirement in the spec.

[@boomerdiorama]

I have current keepers as well. Although, current keepers won't solve defective track in the end. That switcher (Atlas MP15) needs no current keeper. It will run through two lines in the sand. ;-)

[@muir8009]

Boomer, always enjoying your tutoring... however... I could add electrical Nirvana for a modern layout :) Just throwing that bit in where my 1950's märklin runs absolutely sweetly with no track cleaning, no polarity issues, no derailments etc. My 3 rail hornby dublo: 42 turnouts, multiple reverse loops, multiple train running: 3 wires to the whole layout with one track input, no buses, isolating points cut power as appropriate: ran brilliantly. They can't compare as scenic or fidelity of realism (I'm not going to say operational realism) but there's a lot to be said about how good old quality equipment actually was/is for functional use. Sometimes there can be a couple of different paths to model railroading Nirvana... which is exactly as it should be. P.S that doyen of model railway design, the legendary Cyril Freezer, was actually a sparky by trade and he had some quite intelligent articles on model railway wiring through the years. Unfortunately through the '60's and '70's with the less than quality equipment coming out it was lost on many who were at bedt trying to get the jolly things even running...

[@boomerdiorama]

Well I did point out that electrical was the path to Nirvana. Depends on the type of track like in this case HO Scale 2-rail. ;-) Cheers.

[@danielfantino1714]

Buy only quality electrical products, like toggle switch and make proper tcheck before installing. Goof assembly happens. If your layout consists in an assembly of module, it´s sometimes easier to work on module at your workbench than on the layout. Keep them removable with easily disconnectable bus wirings. Imagine working long hours on track or scenery in hard to reach locations. Lift module on one side, unplug, then you´re free to work on it in confort with good lightnings and tools already on site. Thanks Boomer and simplicity is always the best.😊

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds awesome to me! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@Cowboy_Steve]

Howdy Boomer! Great video on the basics of wiring. The wiring is the foundation on which the entire layout is built. Looking forward to this series of videos. Thanks for sharing 🤠

[@boomerdiorama]

Oh yeah. It seems painful for some at first. The payoff is pain free operations for years to come though. ;-)

[@randygates364]

I model n-scale so I have a mini-bus. I use 14 gauge speaker wire with Wago connectors. Works great. Great back-to basics video,

[@boomerdiorama]

14 gauge for N-Scale sounds perfect!

[@JeffRichBLET129]

You know, it's a sad state of affairs that I can fire up a tier lll locomotive, hook up a few thousand tons and drag it all over creation but I'm the dullest crayon in the box electrically. I'd heard you explain the bus system before and was convinced but with the diagram it's crystal clear . Got plywood in the garage and more wallspace cleaned out. Benchwork and track in the sketching stage. No more stand alone vignettes. Time to get to work! Cheers!

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds awesome! Have fun with it.

[@donwillhoit6866]

Boomer, I agree 110%. I connect the feeders from the bus(s) in the approximate middle of the rail section. I also run a feeder to every piece of rail 1" or longer. Shorter pieces get soldered on to one end or the other. My club recently built a new layout and all wiring was done using this method. Seven years later there has not been one complaint about dead spots. Keep up the good work.

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds good. I tend to add two sets per three foot section as well for redundancy - in case of a "cold" solder or losing a dropper connection. Like you say, I never experience dead spots - ever. Cheers.

[@garylambertwilson]

Just wanted to proffer my grateful thanks Boomer. Your videos have encouraged me back into the hobby after sooo many years and your modeling tips and advice have helped me move to new heights! Love the Tamiya Flat earth recommendation, used as a wash - goes so far!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for taking the time to share Gary. Glad to hear that you are inspired to re-engage the hobby. It always gets better as we get older as well. ;-) CHeers ~ Boomer.

[@garylambertwilson]

@@boomerdiorama. Hi Boomer. May I ask for your wisdom on how best to static grass between tracks? Your video shows protecting the rails/sleepers with tape. What size static grass on running sections? 1mm or 2mm? Secondly. My layout is English china clay with spillage on sidings. How best might I replicate white clay dust without it looking like a snow scene? Would value your advice! Blessings. Gary

[@boomerdiorama]

@@garylambertwilson Using tape is one way for a small section. You can stab in matte medium with a detail brush as well. When it comes to white substance in miniature, on a layout, I shy away from it because it never looks right - unless you paint it beige with a wash or something and use very little white to highlight.

[@garylambertwilson]

@@boomerdiorama Hi. Good call! Thank you! Will try building up layers of beige washes. And 2mm static grass, stabbed in with Matte Medium. Appreciate your guidance! Blessings. Gary.

[@CharlieH65]

Absolutely. 100% yes, proper track wiring is paramount!

[@boomerdiorama]

It is extra work but the work is forever forgotten, once in place, because reliability rules the day. ;-)

[@donhanley1213]

Well said. There are a few in the hobby that need to be bulletproof, and wiring is one of those.

[@boomerdiorama]

Yes indeed!

[@trainmanroysmodelrailroadh7686]

your videos have taught me so much - and i have just invested in some point motors. Electrics is a black art to me and the simple explanation of point motor wiring just lifted the fog. Simple to some people, theory of relativity complex to me! Cheers again

[@boomerdiorama]

If you take it one step at a time you will progressively learn and pick it up. Be patient and it will come. We are all in this learning curve together in one aspect or another. Cheers.

[@johnkelley4874]

Wow! What a great way of showing how to do this! Makes total sense never even knew what an electrical buss was. Thanks so much for the lesson! It couldn't have come at a better time as I'm starting my new 20ftx17inch HO switching layout with a little bit of scenery ,truss bridge over a river then a mountain with a tunnel at the far left end to a Fidel track modeling a compressed version of Donner Pass using trackside scenery backdrops to make the 3 scenes in a shadow box to improve the sound and immersion factor 😊

[@boomerdiorama]

You can run feeder wire (droppers) to each end of the bridge (down to the bus) as well for reliability. ;-)

[@sferguson1130]

Hey Boomer, great content as always! I’ve got almost 30 years of experience in fine arts, model making, dioramas, etc, but zero experience in model railroading, from a builder/user standpoint. I’ve always loved & admired it, but from a far, since I was a kid. It wasn’t until discovering your channel maybe a year ago, that I realized I didn’t need to own a home, and/or need/want a large footprint, to build on. To make a long story shorter, thanks to you, my benchwork is complete, and I’m currently working on my track plans. Throughout the last year, I’ve been very slowly taking in info. on the electrical side of things, since this is the most foreign subject for me. At the risk of being a silly question, I’ll shamelessly ask it. Where does the running end of the bus wire end up? I understand that the standing end, connects to the power source, but where does the bus wire end up, at the other end of a point to point layout? Does it just connect to the last set of jumpers, coming down from the furthest piece of track? Sorry for the long winded message. Thanks for everything you do for the community!

[@boomerdiorama]

Good question. All you do is "dead" end the track bus at the end of your layout. I don't strip it either, unless I want to splice into it for further expansion. I also like to leave a little extra for future expansion (you can add to to the bus down the road). Note: Do not connect the end of the bus to anything, Just make sure they don't touch each other. I fold the positive (red) wire out of the way of the negative end (black wire). The advantage of solid copper wire is it holds its shape as well. Cheers.

[@sferguson1130]

@@boomerdiorama I really appreciate the time and effort you allocate, for the comments section. The level of teaching you operate at, is the kind of thing, you expect to pay for, like Masterclass for example. Thanks for answering my question!

[@boomerdiorama]

@@sferguson1130 Thank you. I appreciate the community around the channel as well.😁

[@conrailfan6277]

Great Video Boomer, a solid power source is crucial to a great running layout!! Gotta love the Switcher, my first ride was on a NYC SW7 when I was 5 years old, about a month afterward NYC merged with the Pennsy and became PC, they stopped using the the Switchers in Anderson Indiana and went to the venerable GP9!! Cheers!!

[@boomerdiorama]

Love those four axles! Actually this Atlas MP15 switcher has no "keep alive" simply because it would make no difference because it actually runs unbelievable. It will run through two lines in the sand . . . lol. ;-)

[@DRCRailroard]

Hey Boomer, this principle is suited to successful operations for all scales. I run conventional with AC transformers in 0-scale. I have a single common bus and 6 hot bus wires with all my transformers phased together to a single common bus wire. I have taps every 6', which ensures that I have a tap within easy reach of each end of my turnouts. I soldiered all my rail joints and I also use an electrically conductive oxide inhibitor on my rails, and I believe it is the reason I can run slower, uninterrupted, consistent scale speeds running conventionally with my Lionel postwar pullmor motors. I can set my throttles at a single setting and maintain that speed even through curves for the entire loop. The bus should be tapped at the mid point of the bus from the transformer supply to reduce the voltage drop. This ensures a uniform voltage in each direction from the midpoint. Voltage drop is more of an issue with DC voltage.

[@boomerdiorama]

Thanks for sharing!😁

[@canoeingnav7618]

Thanks Boomer. Thankfully I had a friend show this to me when I got started. I even colour code the wire to help prevent miswiring while I am bashing my head under the shelf. Next layout will be higher than 42 inches.🙄

[@boomerdiorama]

Lol . . . mine is 57" high with less bruises on the noggin. ;-)

[@williamdickman7917]

Great wiring demo fir dcc, Abita more complicated if using straight DC with block control

[@boomerdiorama]

If you need to run multiple locomotives in DC, block systems can be complicated. But that is why I jumped to DCC - it's easy and reliable. ;-)

[@bruceames6332]

Great bit of information, Boomer ! Needed to know this I am wiring my new layout this weekend. And appreciate this info. Thank You, Sir Bruce in Minnesota

[@boomerdiorama]

No problem Bruce, Thanks for sharing. Cheers.

[@user-uc7js2hb5i]

Great advice, thank you

[@boomerdiorama]

Your welcome!

[@What_If_We_Tried]

Your explanation of bus wiring is so clear and concise, and will be a game changer for me when I start building my first layout later this year. Do you have a Patreon page so I can make a donation?

[@boomerdiorama]

You can use "Super Thanks" on the video to the far right where the three little dots are. Click on those and it will take you to the "Thanks" and you can donate there. Cheers!

[@shaunhuckstepp7531]

Hi Boomer , I really struggle with layout wiring , the way you explain the process makes it easier to understand. Could I trouble you please to do a Vlog on how to wire a set of points with DPDT centre off switch , yea I know these is tutorials on the subject but you seem to have the gift of making it easy to understand especially for the electronic challenged like me LOL. My bus wiring is multi strand copper heavy gage about 4mm thick and has a black plastic outer casing which I just strip off and solder drop wires at every rail join which runs positive and negative bus wire , very close to how you explained in the vlong, because it in the garage and opened to temperature changes I don't solder the rail joiners. Great Vlog thanks . Shaun

[@boomerdiorama]

Sounds good. I scratch build all my turnouts and don't normally use DPDT switches. In fact I am starting to use "frog" juicers instead of switches now, although I leave the switch wire lead in place just in case.

[@schadowolf]

Great video and information!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you Sir! Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@davidcurtis5398]

All my wires are soldered as I do not trust the suit case connectors. I've not had a problem in the past several roads after I learned to solder right. I am working on a way to power the points so I can paint all of the track but have positive power on my inexpensive switches with the plastic frogs.

[@boomerdiorama]

I don't use suitcase connectors. I know people do. I pigtail solder everything as well.😁👍

[@boomerdiorama]

You can have powered points by using a PC board tie.

[@ISAACBATENBURG]

Thank you for clear explanation

[@boomerdiorama]

You are welcome! Thanks for sharing!

[@theMudFather]

Great advice thanks boomer! I already use a bus for my track and a separate bus for accessories, but I have a reverse loop that I had working, made some track changes and now it does not work. I even changed it back to original and it still does not work. But hey, I'm still having fun!

[@boomerdiorama]

Right on!

[@bernicemeade3232]

Keep up the good work ❤ Cheers

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! Will do!

[@mikerubynfs]

My big turn off at shows is a layout that doesn't run well, the one thing I always made sure was that my layouts ran well. I run busses for all my tracks, DCC accessories, lights, switch motors etc. even onto boards that don't use some of those, easy to do as you start the layout. Then in the future if I add something the bus is already nearby to connect to. Soldering is another problem I've seen, a blobby joint is probably a bad one and the number of people using acid flux, which works for a while and then rots the joint out a year or two later.

[@boomerdiorama]

I agree. It's a real immersion killer. I like that approach you speak of. It's so nice to have reliable power bus and source to tap into when you need it, and as you expand the layout. ;-)

[@OldcampRanch]

Very cool👍🏻

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you!😁

[@BrooksMoses]

Boomer, when the title sounds like the video is all about technical details: Delivers soliloquies about philosophy of modeling. Boomer, when the title sounds like a soliloquy about philosophy of modeling: Delivers a video all about technical details. I think this means you're making the point that the two are inseparable, and I'm here for it.

[@boomerdiorama]

One of the best model railroad operational experiences I ever had was with moving one rustic boxcar after a hard days work. Everything went smoothly without interruptions. It felt real and satisfying. I was good for a month because I normally like looking at my layout with no trains at all at times . . . lol. ;-) Cheers ~ Boomer.

[@wilzdart]

Boomer you be surprised, (maybe not) the layouts I have been to that are a rats nest of wiring. Also the different colors on the bus itself. You give sound advise and I hope it is heeded. I had to strip my friends layout down to the bench work to get his wiring straight , I found three different colors on the bus. Thanks for the info

[@boomerdiorama]

I know why it happens (as you mention) and I get why. Model railroad expansion happens spontaneously over a long period of time and we can end up in a real mess. We are all prone to it. I find simple and thorough is best in the end. It does not need to be complicated but rather reliable. Cheers.

[@jaxithfox]

Wiring is the one thing I'm going to be going overkill on with my planned shelf layout. I couldn't possibly count the number of times I've seen people with electrical issues on layouts.

[@boomerdiorama]

I overkill on my wiring as well. Funny thing . . . when you do you never notice it ever again because it just works consistently. ;-)

[@MU-2]

As straightforward an explanation of basic wiring that I have heard. I’ve listened to numerous KZbin descriptions but none as to the point as this. Yes, pure nirvana for smooth locomotive operations, just as the theme music is. May I ask where you found the piece?

[@boomerdiorama]

KZbin!

[@bernicemeade3232]

Thanks!

[@boomerdiorama]

Thank you! You are awesome!

[@thomasdecker7631]

OK, so I learned to wire a layout as a kid from an article in Model Railroader back around 1966. You've sold me on the bus idea. It makes a lot of sense. I do have a few DCC equipped locomotives, so will eventually be yanked kicking and screaming (partly at least) into the 21st century. However, I also have a collection of old DC locomotives. Replacing them is not going to happen and converting all of them is out of the question, so I will be using the old system of block toggles. etc. Question: Probably the best route is to install an individual bus for each block? Wiring is in the planning stage, so I've got some flexibility there.

[@SD40Fan_Jason]

If you are ever planning to have more than one train go in an opposing direction to another train at the same time, then yes. You will definitely want to power your individual blocks with a bus for each one. If you only have one train at a time then you can still wire everything in on a single bus.

[@boomerdiorama]

This method works equally well with DC or DCC. It does not matter. I can flick a switch from DC to DCC on the same layout with this wiring. ;-)

[@boomerdiorama]

You still get increased resistance when you use track as a bus as you add more track. It will get you in the end if you plan to expand.

[@dwightatnorthernstar1820]

I would add to twist the buss wires together where there is no soldered connection

[@boomerdiorama]

O.K.

[@bobainsworth5057]

All good. May I suggest that the bus should be at least 14ga. Wire . Don't know the equivalent in metric. Then as layout expands in number of engines running you can have no fear.

[@boomerdiorama]

It depends on the scale. Personally I use 12-14 gauge on my layout. In "Z" scale much smaller is suitable.😁

[@Vman7757]

Thanks for sharing. Very sound explanation. Do you insulate all six points of rail on your Turnouts? Interesting.

[@boomerdiorama]

Sometimes I do. Like the three-way turnout is completely isolated with its own power from the bus and frog juicers which tap into the same bus under the layout. I make exceptions when I extend a diverging route in some situations.

[@jamesbraxton6132]

The landlord wants her old spot back

[@boomerdiorama]

Lol . . . she gave me a swat the other day over this issue. She kind of intimidates me at times . . . lol

[@garyspencer-salt4336]

The first thing I tell a customer is nickel silver rail has no silver; it's a nickel-bearing brass and copper can carry 100 times more current [power] per square mm than brass. The rail's job is to keep trains out of the dirt, but the copper drives the models, with the track just for local power delivery. Refrain from using rail joiners for power connections; they are not trusted in the real world as they use jumpers across them for reliable signalling. The rule I tell customers is that if it is 4'' or 36'' long, the track needs a feeder; this shatters the two wires to the track mantra. You are more than 100% correct with this clip, but personally, I do not agree with solid wire. If you nick it, this can result in a fracture point. Multicore is better here. DCC real Achilles heal is the signal delivery, not the potential difference [voltage] between the wheel and track; if you cannot get the loco to run with a 14V, here, there is another issue. A decoder is constantly looking to be validated by receiving a packet with its name, power is always there but here the decoder timeout period shows up. If a valid packet is not received with a defined time period it will begin to slow down to a stop, this is to prevent runaways [refer Soundtraxx]. This is a result of poor pickup at the wipers and wheels, but it looks like the dirtiest DC operation imaginable. The rest is good maintenance, including cleaning when required. Check wipers with a piece of bond paper [carefully]; when you cannot feel a tiny bit of drag, that one is most likely not working.

[@boomerdiorama]

I do agree with you on the solid wire dilemma - so far so good however. ;-) Back in the day I actually used stranded lamp cord for smaller layouts . . . lol. I never really experienced bad track connections at a very early age because I listened to the voice of experience. Cheers and thanks for sharing!

[@AemJaY]

so as a bus wire, i can use any powercable and open it up and solder my feeder cables in? sound like a really nice idea. i think i have to try this. thnx boomer for the inspiration.

[@boomerdiorama]

Sure you can.

[@erikklopfenstein1948]

Hey, great video Boomer!!! I truly appreciate the reinforcement of the bus wire system. I’m intending to use 12gauge solid core wire for my bus, but I’m waffling on a feeder wire gauge. I’m going to use solid core as well. I just don’t want to over or under size them. Any thoughts???

[@boomerdiorama]

I have 12 gauge bus for mine but 14 gauge is plenty good enough. You can use both. Just make sure you solder the two gauges together really well.

[@RonStanek]

Buss⚡️101 Cheers 🍻

[@boomerdiorama]

👍

[@murraymartin9009]

Good advice. Love it!

[@boomerdiorama]

Awesome! It works in basic form for me. I do improvise on this a little here-and-there as well. ;-)

[@ApproachMedium]

Do you solder your feeder wires to the side or bottom of your rails?

[@boomerdiorama]

I solder to the bottom. I clip out some spacers on the ties (bottom of rail), slide them over, file the bottom to add texture to the rail, then solder. I drill holes in the base just outside the ties and then ballast over the wires (droppers).

[@ApproachMedium]

Thanks! Keep up the great work, you're quite the inspiration :-)

[@tabletop-glory]

That Crawl at the start! God I wish my old DC layout could do that.

[@boomerdiorama]

DC (Wave) has a neat feel to it though. I still like it. I can run DC on this layout as well. ;-)

[@ColtonsHobbies]

What switch machine is that?

[@WHJeffB]

BluPoint

[@boomerdiorama]

Blue Point - Manual switch with power routing board built it in. You can also wire it to other accessories as well. I use RC servo cables under the facia for "Line-Crew" style switching.

[@shaunhuckstepp7531]

Hi Boomer . you've Got me curious , what are frog juicers not heard of them before. Shaun

[@boomerdiorama]

If you Google them up you will see that they are little boards that you hook up to the "Bus" wire under the layout, and then one yellow wire to the frog. They are so fast that they will switch polarity before the DCC locomotive knows it to rout the appropriate power polarity through the frog regardless of the route. No more shorts or dead frogs. No stalling on turnouts either!

[@shaunhuckstepp7531]

@@boomerdiorama Hi Boomer , sorry I forgot to mention that my layout is DC ,would I still need a DPDT switch to change the points? I will more than likely purchase a few Tortoise units to play around so I get the hang of it > Thank for your help Shaun

[@boomerdiorama]

@@shaunhuckstepp7531 Tortoise will "power route" no problem.