Boost solenoid bypass/delete

[@ashbarwick5923]

Thank you so much for the tip no one wants to help you out these days it's how much money can I get off u

[@Big_LosF]

This worked on a series 1 3800 supercharged park abe ultra. Thank for this

[@ViewThis.]

I've reconfigured one of these superchargers to work with a Carburetor, so I've deleted the Bypass. It simply won't work to recirculate/bypass fuel laden air, it would only become richer and richer until flooding happens or -- leak fuel laden air into the atmosphere. Not Good. This video helps me to know what those ports are for. Thanks.

[@thisyoutubechannel3107]

Works awesome on an l67 gtp. Thanks mate I owe ya

[@JPGordon123]

Thanks for the video mate. Probably a really dumb question, but the line that you removed off the back of the Boost Actuator, which goes down and attaches to the passenger side head; are you removing the line from the head too (or just from the actuator and leaving it dangling in there?) Do you have to block anything on the head?

[@motov8-garage832]

Im having a hard time understanding how the bypass controller is supposed to maneuver. My 2002 frontier has the eaton supercharger. Had it 7 years and always thought it works correctly. When i rev the engine from ynder the hood the arm goes quick down to the stopper tab, then immediately back up an inch or so then as i continue to rev higher the arm kinda goes higher up. My supercharger has always had this slight rattaling noise to it, the dealer ship said its just how they sound..i read on the forums that it means somthing with the bypass isnt hooked up correctly..anyways the other night i was working on the truck and n oticed that one of the vacume lines hidden in the back was rotted in half, i put a new vacume line and hooked it up, now my rattaking noise went away and the truck idles better. I admit i was slacking on not noticing that hose sooner.. So now my question is my actuater bypass arm moving correctly?

[@aaronelder5080]

Thanks heaps, instead of blocking the one on supercharger can use it for a boost gauge

[@javiergarcia-rj8vc]

Excuse my ignorance will making this help in any form? Hp related? Now for the vacuum being exposed no other solution would be there for a weird idle correct? Thanks in advance.

[@Decicrate01]

This only helps when the boost solenoid is faulty or when the ecu thinks that you require less boost. Unfortunately the ecu quite often thinks that we need less boost and then bleeds it off by opening the boost actuator. By doing what I have shown will not affect idle or light throttle use. The blower will still operate as intended.

[@HaydenMate]

Hey mate on my l67 the boost tree thing the lines are opposite like you said they can be but does that mean they are the wrong way around and how would you block off that little hole on the boost tree

[@africanhuman5795]

i have a roots blower from a vw twincharge inatslled on a toyota 1gfe engine, should i install a bypass valve? thanks

[@Shane-un2hi]

I have a VT Holden Commodore L 67 supercharged Gets to 6 pound boost and then surges, what could that be?

[@Shane-un2hi]

It has 11 PSI pulley on it

[@dillanthomas-seiler9067]

Does the effect fuel economy?

[@paulbruh7683]

Those 2 lines that run to the solenoid (the bottom one from the tree & the one at the back of the actuator) do you have to plug the ones at the solenoid?? Or let them breath to air??

[@LosDoyerss]

Thanks mate, appreciate you.

[@java9826]

does that mean if you want to install a boost gauge you would t off that top vacuum line and connect it there?

[@xtwistiez8851]

I just did mine and previous owner has it t’d on the bottom line I just blocked it after the t

[@danielmeyer4515]

If u look directly underneith the supercharger snout there is a barb with rubber blocking it of factory from Holden take the rubber of and run the boost line of there. That's how I did mine

[@rozman9756]

My normal actuator line on the top always disconnected burst at the end. Why is that happened and what will be the effect to the supercharge?

[@briantimms6528]

it goes brittle, and the actuator might be siezed. The issue with this is that it will not actually open up and allow boost, it will sit closed and you get nothing. you should see the actuator opening and closing when you give the engine a quick rev, it opens to allow boost to feed into the motor, closes so that you have fuel econemy when not on heavy throttle. If yours is popping the top hose, get new hose, and get that actuator replaced/checked.

[@jw879]

Can’t you just pull the line off the tree and the solenoid and then leave the one on the actuator to the solenoid and that would do the same thing?

[@homeroaguilar6163]

I'm trying to understand you but for some reason I cant anyway I'm trying to install an boost gauge on my riviera cause mine doesn't come with but for some reason mine hff as different set up mine its 95 riviera supercharged

[@FloppyThings98]

Nice vid. I like. But from what I have researched, this makes the charger on boost all the time, over works it and decreases longevity. I will leave mine alone

[@Decicrate01]

Don't know where you did your research, but unfortunately that information is incorrect. The boost bypass solenoid is activated by the ECU and will reduce boost under certain conditions, it also has a bad habit of failing completely. By doing what i have shown in the video, still allows the boost actuator to work as it was intended to do and run with no boost under light throttle and then apply boost as you increase throttle load.......

[@LosDoyerss]

Boost is activated by the RPM's.

[@needmoreboost6369]

It’s a good simple fix! And can’t go wrong with vac only! I’ll do it to mine once I put it all back together and im still keen to bring my turbo ute down for a dyno run! I put another box in it and I’m keen to see how much it’ll hold

[@briantimms6528]

it doesnt change longtivity of the charger, the charger spins regardless of the actuator position, and infact, if the charger is spinning, it's creating boost. if you take the intake pipe off, and open the throttle with 1 hand, and spin the charger snout with the other, you will actually hear and most likely (depending on the direction you turn the snout) feel the air. This mod is similar to the function of a Blow off valve on a turbo, when you get off the throttle, the air pressure in the in the blower goes vaccum, which pulls the actuator closed and allows bypass. This means that on light/no throttle, the actuator can do it's job properly and not have issues from electronics trying to change/compensate. It's essentially a conversion from mech-electric controlled, to purely mechanicall.

[@stevemoore1148]

@@LosDoyerssincorrect boost is directly related to load. This is why the engine doesn’t make boost while not under load

[@richd2353]

What is the purpose of this as I have a l67 please advise me

[@Decicrate01]

Go to L67torque on Facebook and there is heaps of information there about this

[@dvtv4629]

Yea. Leave both of just one open on the rear of the passenger side

[@Decicrate01]

@johnathan smith Well if you like your ECU throwing error code, than doing it your way will work, but it will make no more power that doing it the way I have shown, except there will be no error code....

[@Decicrate01]

@johnathan smith LOL with the solenoid unplugged there will be a error code....

[@mrmystery8484]

I notice doing this makes a odd idle

[@mrmystery8484]

Only on start up until it goes for a drove and then it idle normal, and then the same process when the car has been turned off again

[@mrmystery8484]

Any advice on why it would do this

[@rayrubio498]

Demonstrate it on a GM 3800 Series Supercharger 2&3series thnx

[@Decicrate01]

Hmmm it works the same on all GM M90's

[@NunyaBuisness-i3o]

@@Decicrate01I believe the vaccum lines are different. I had to pull 1 vaccum line in the front for this to work as I was only making 2-3psi of boost and think I had a faulty solenoid, pulled the line and now I’m making 6-7

[@ALLAUS]

Beauty cheers

[@daveerrington5166]

Why would you do this mod?

[@Decicrate01]

@@daveerrington5166 it stops the ecu from bleeding off boost as well as stopping the boost from being bled off when the solenoid starts to fail

[@joshatkins912]

So why was it there in the first place?

[@Decicrate01]

It is there to reduce the boost pressure under certain circumstances like in reverse gear... The trouble is that the solenoid has a bad habit of failing and reducing the way the actuator works . this bypasses the electrical side of things without the ECU throwing a error code. It also costs nothing to do... Win win !!!

[@JonLaBree]

If you follow this tip, it will hold the valve open and you will never get a boost.

[@Decicrate01]

Hmm really??? Seems that you have not a single clue as to how these work. The actuator still works as factory when done this way, the difference is that the boost SOLENOID now can not bleed boost off........ You do know that the actuator is operated by vacuum don't you???

[@lsjionredlinesupercharged2049]

Hmmm I'll leave mine alone.

[@FloppyThings98]

Same

[@Decicrate01]

@@FloppyThings98 That is your choice. Probably the right call for you guys. I doubt that you could handle any more p;owerzzzzzz....

[@LosDoyerss]

It's not going to hurt anything since you can just put it back on if you wanted. But then again you've probably never worked on your vehicle before.

[@pcballer157]

nhvhv