BOOSTING SOLAR POWER on Our Winnebago Micro Minnie FLX to 1170 Watts! 🌞

Join Rob as he shows you how he supercharged our Winnebago Micro Minnie FLX RV with 1170 Watts total Solar!
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💰Items in the video which you can purchase.💰
HQST Panel 190 Watt amzn.to/4a7is1i
Solar on the Side NewPowa 200 Watt Panel amzn.to/49LyHRM
HQST 100 Watt Panel on Roof amzn.to/3wO8DH1
Rich Solar 100 Watt 2 pack on Roof amzn.to/48O2tUz
Solar Connectors amzn.to/4c69xij
10 GA Copper Wire amzn.to/43dp1x5
Parallel Connectors amzn.to/3wPzFhn
10 amp Inline Fuse amzn.to/3wMaMTN
Renogy DC to DC charger amzn.to/3IyVhRH
Renogy Blue Tooth Controller amzn.to/3VcGLXb
Solar on the Side SAE Adaptor Plug amzn.to/3IwaFOD
Solar Crimp Tool amzn.to/3wPzN0l
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About: In this video we are going to be showing you how we have managed to upgrade our solar system to 1170 watts on our Winnebago Micro Minnie 2108DS FLX model camper. I am going to show you how we are using two charge controllers to run a total of 1170 watts of solar panels.
The Winnebago Micro Minnie is touted as an Off Grid camper for boondocking but it comes from the Factory ill prepared for boondocking any longer than around 3 days. Since we live full time, we have now added enough solar to truly get us through indefinitely when we are boondocking (which is all the time).
00:00 Introduction
02:03 Install of 190 Watt HQST Solar Panel on the FLX
08:17 The Rich and HQST 100 watt Solar Panels installed in Parallel
10:53 My Choice on laying out the 12v Wiring on the roof
12:43 GoPower and the Solar on the Side Port Mis Wiring on the Winnebago FLX
13:31 Installing the second Solar Charge Controller, Renogy 50 Amp DC to DC
13:44 My 200 Watt Solar on the Side Panel
13:57 The 190 Watt HQST Panel installed on the Front of the FLX
14:36 How my Two Solar charge controllers are working
15:29 If I had to do it all over again thoughts
15:42 I would install the 190 watt in series with the factory GoPower panels
16:52 Putting the panel on the nose of the RV
17:32 Using brackets which allow me to take the panels off easily
19:59 Upgrading our Batteries to provide more Amp Hours
#fulltimerv #rvliving #winnebagomicrominnie #winnebagoflx #livingwithrob #robertanthony #rvlife #landscapephotography #professionalphotography #robandjoelle #robandjoelleanthony #rvsolar

[@brianreichart9054]

I'm just getting started on researching solar and how much I need, so I appreciate the insight you provided. Thanks Rob!

[@livingwithrob]

Thank Brian. Reach out if you need anything!

[@tonytate3912]

Man you are very good at this .. thanks for info👍

[@livingwithrob]

Thank you for watching.

[@RVwifelife]

Bravo! Awesome to see this install from start to finish. Great detail

[@livingwithrob]

Thanks

[@merrileepuccio7677]

I might be interested in your battery. Thanks fellow Flx owner.

[@livingwithrob]

To answer your settings question... Xantrex app ----> settings---> charger -----> charger current- set to whatever works. I keep ours set to 85 amps or lower Back up one step scroll to Grid. Set at 15, 20, or 30. Whatever your breaker tolerance on the receptacle is. If you pull your charger current down to say, 20 amps, your breaker should not trip. Reach out to me thru our site and we can talk about the battery. livingwithrob.com/contact-rob

[@itsjustthatez4275]

Saw your comment on Tech Tip Tuesday. I have rhe 2108 FB flx and want to use the side port, which you mentioned you already have experience with. Is it my understanding if I use the side port for a 100 watt panel, I need ro get a separate controller? Have you determibed the aide port gies ro the battery or controller. Any help is greatly appreciated. Flx doesnt provide much information.. Thank you.

[@livingwithrob]

Good morning. It goes to the controller. However, the way it's wired to the controller makes it problematic. You are better installing a separate charge controller and rewiring the side port connection to it. This is straight from GoPower when I worked up my modifications.

[@user-jn8lb8tf2y]

Hello Rob, I am going to install 4, 100 Watt panels on my 1708FB. I’m using a Stud finder to locate the roof rafters. Winnebago states in their brochure those are on 16” centers across the trailer. I’m getting all kind of findings as to where the rafters are. I wondered if you had any issues or problems locating the rafters on your trailer ?

[@livingwithrob]

WB will send you the roof schematics if you ask for them. The schematic has very precise measurements and locations of everything up there. Personally...I didn't concern myself with hitting rafters. Put Dicor down first, then use Stainless hex heads to screw brackets to roof (don't over tighten...it's easy to do so) on top of the Dicor, then use Dicor self leveling over the brackets till they're well covered. I think that's fine. It would take a LOT of force to rip all 4 spots away from the roof once the Dicor sets. Again, only my opinion here. 🤓

[@user-jn8lb8tf2y]

@@livingwithrob Many thanks! I will call Winnebago tomorrow.

[@livingwithrob]

@@user-jn8lb8tf2y happy to help!

[@paulh5537]

A couple of questions: 1) You mention that you're looking at replacing your Lithionics battery and you're looking at a couple of manufacturers. Can you provide your initial thoughts on that? 2) You have added an additional 50A solar controller. Any issues with the two controllers working together? I'm about to take delivery on a 2108DS (comes with one-200 W panel and a 30A Go-Power, and planning to upgrade the solar to probably 600W), would appreciate your insight. Thanks Rob!

[@livingwithrob]

Paul, sure. 1) I really like the Epoch line. They have a new RV line of Lithium that are both heated and cold protected with smart BMS installed. They have been great to talk to on the phone. Many options. If we upgrade batteries we are ditching the Lithionics and buying matching Epochs. I'll install (2) 300ah batteries in it's place. I want them heated and with cold protection should it be needed. LiTime is another brand and while they are less expensive, they do not have the heated option. Will Prowse @willprowse recently side by side compared both lines. He likes both and says if the heated option isn't necessary you'll save a lot of $ with the LiTime. I want the better quality, American made Epochs if I do it. www.litime.com/ www.epochbatteries.com/ 2) The charge controllers work fine together and create no issues for me. I first consulted with a few associates who do solar installs along with GoPower and all confirmed there is no issue with putting them in use in the same system. Related to your charge controller and panel. Here's my opinion. This opinion is based on my personal experiences and research with GoPower and some other techs. The GoPower 30 amp can handle as many solar panels you can put together that do not exceed the 30 amps if installed in Parallel or the total Voltage if installed in Series. If you are putting them together, I'd make sure the wattage is exactly the same. For example, the GoPower panels, if that is what is installed is a 190 watt. If the installed panel is 190, I'd make sure the additional panels are 190. If it is a straight 200, make sure the additional panels are 200 each to match. If you plan to install in parallel, make sure the total amps of the 3 panels does not exceed the 30 amps of the charge controller. If you plan to install in series, the amps do not matter and instead, make sure their voltages do not exceed the capacity of the charge controller. If you have the same GoPower 30 amp that I have, they need to stay under 100 volts total when added together (in a series array). So in Parallel, add Amps for total max capacity In Series Add Volts for total max capacity Let me know on that panel precise wattage and I will shoot you links to some to review.

[@paulh5537]

@@livingwithrob Thanks Rob! This video has been incredibly helpful for planning my 2108DS solar expansion. A follow-up question: what other routing options did you consider for running the new PV lines?

[@livingwithrob]

@@paulh5537 hey again. I thought about attempting to pull through the roof but that's about it. I really could see very few other options to get wire down into that cargo bay. No way did I want to get into taking stuff apart inside to have them go from the roof into that bay. I hope that helps. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Always here to help if I can.

[@paulh5537]

For the starter battery line to your dc-dc charger (4 ga?)... What did you use for a connector from the back of truck to trailer? Any tips on line routing along bottom of the truck (I have a 2015 Tundra, similar to your 2013)?

[@livingwithrob]

@@paulh5537 Yes. I used 4ga. I put breakers at both ends. Larger in the truck compartment, smaller in the WB. I used Anderson connectors. I put the wire in loom and fed it through the frame on the passenger side all the say back and over the spare tire (had to lower the spare to pull the wire) If you email me, I will send you photos of the set up and links to the cable, the connectors, the crimpers and the Anderson connectors. [e-mail]

[@cdbnum1]

I have a 2023 micro Minnie 2100bh would you happen to know if I can use my 200watt solar panels to charge my ecoflow portable power station on the side go power solar port hookup? If so what wiring would I need?

[@livingwithrob]

I do not believe this is possible. I think you could charge your device by turning the Inverter on and then plugging your unit into the 110v receptacle. The panels will then charge your battery...as the battery powers the inverter...which is powering the receptacle.

[@mattjurcak9028]

Is there something you were looking for in a bigger rv? I have an F150, I'm looking in the 18' to 20' range.

[@livingwithrob]

Hey there. I am really liking the Ember line and also the Outdoors RV line. They have a few in that length that would work for you. In our case, we will stay in this for this travel season but will be upgrading. Given we would need to move up to an F250 or 350 to pull anything we may want to travel with, we may simply make the jump to a Class A and tow a small, say, Subaru with us. We would use the Subaru to get to the out of reach areas to do photography and video. Still on the fence here though. For example, we have an epic spot in which we are presently camped. There is no way we could have gotten in here with anything larger than this FLX. Missing out on spots such as this would be tragic. Outdoors and Ember both make models that are a tad bigger which would work well for us, however, again, they are so much heavier we would absolutely need to upgrade. The Tundra and our trailer right now are maxed out weight wise. Cannot add any more (and we travel very light). By the time we were to purchase, even an older model F250, we'd be over 100k for the trailer and truck. Yet, if we found a solid Class A used, well cared for, we could get that and a Subaru for under 65k. If, however you are looking for that length, check out Ember and Outdoors. Bigfoots are nice too, but with no slides, limited room interior speaking.😁

[@mattjurcak9028]

@livingwithrob The outdoors are heavier, but extremely well built. I saw quite a few of them in Oregon last fall. I haven't researched the ember. We won't be doing it full time, so we plan to stay on the smaller side. Thanks for the info.