Bored of lame tool reviews? Meet Makita's new Hypoid Saw.

[@williamgray5712]

I'm an aircraft mechanic. I piss off gravity for a living, and that makes me smile. But, you sir. You, are GOD among Men. This channel is absolutely incredible. I just learned more about tools in 30 minutes than I've ever known prior. Keep the video's coming. And thank god I guessed right about Makita lol.

[@williamgray5712]

Don't worry, we rotor-craft mechs practice the dark art of ".... waiiiiiiiiiiiiit. aww F*ck... dude, look... " to which the brotherhood will reply "let me call the wife, it's gonna be a long one". - We do a good job =)

[@KnobCRICK]

+William Gray I was trying to figure out how you piss on gravity, then I re-read

[@elizondomountaindewherbert3250]

he's perty darn skookum, that's for sure!

[@jansb984]

People who piss on the gravity stay on the ground. This is where you are. Can you get up or are you a chicken? There are no friends at 38,000 feet and .7Mah

[@johno9507]

738polarbear. Another aircraft engineer here! We generally don't use electric hand tools on aircraft...some desk jockeys theory that commutator sparks may ignite fuel fumes.

[@CJ_102]

I don't own many makita tools, just this set of 50 cutters - fucking legend

[@mrpete222]

One of your best. I liked your criticism of the package labeling lies. I often wonder how they can lie like that. Of course ALL advertising is a lie.

[@andrewvida3829]

I don't think they lie for the sake of lying, but only because everyone else uses the same lies because the average consumer is ignorant of the basics of such things. They like big numbers, so the manufacturers publish the biggest ones they can. If Makita used RMS figures, their saws would look candy-ass compared with the rest and people wouldn't buy them. This is the sad reality of a planet infested with ignorant, lazy people.

[@afrog2666]

You must be american.. Some advertising is actually factual, I know, crazy world..

[@listerdave1240]

The overstating of power seems to be a recurring problem for 120 V tools. Here in Europe we have 13 amps at 220V in ordinary household outlets which can easily give 3 or more horsepower and in my (admitedly limited) experience the good brand tools here do actually have the stated power. I have some power tools from Bosch, Makita and some Eastern Europe and Chinesium brands ranging from 1.5 to 2.5 KW. They do actually consume more electrical power than stated when under heavy load. I have seen the exact same model Bosch drill as I have advertised in the US with exactly the same power rating, which would be impossible at 120V and 15 A. I'm guessing that the motor really is the exact same one as I have just wound with thicker gauge and fewer turns and that it would probably provide the same power if your socket outlet could supply it (and the cord didn't melt). Which means the label may be technically correct inasmuch as what the tool is rated but dishonest and misleading inasmuch as what the tool can actually do for you.

[@CPLBSS88]

Its not a lie! Its just just an alternate truth you are not privy to.... they be smarter than us.

[@3dsman]

It's been going on for long before power tool spec's were routinely provided... before that it was stereo equipment with chooched spec's. Watts aren't watts aren't watts. RMS, peak, continuous... etc, etc. They skin the cat the way it makes them look good and them's the numbers they give.

[@mytmousemalibu]

Actually, most all rear drive vehicles are of a hypoid style gear arrangement just like that saw. The pinion drive gear doesn't pass through the centerline. I have *_never_* seen anything but the hypoid gear arrangement in rear drive vehicles. In fail wheel drive vehicles, the diff is internal to the transmission in most cases and are normally a chain drive or direct spur gear. The exceptions to the hypoid rule I would say are some of the really old, early automobiles like a Model T perhaps. Ford 9", Ford 8.8, Dana's, AAR's, GM's, Mercedes, BMW, etc, etc, all hypoid. Even some of the EP rear end lubes say hypoid on the bottle.

[@euromobile900]

Yeah, agree. Notable exceptions are profoundly weird cars in other ways. SAAB 900 cars from '79-'93 and SAAB 99 from '68-'84 had spiral bevel gears, as did many Citroëns (2cv, Traction Avant, DS, SM). This layout was shared (albeit transposed to the back of the car) with many VW-derived vehicles: Bug, Van, and a whole series of front-engine (transaxle at rear) and rear-engine Porsches. Perhaps not coincidentally, lots of these cars have pinion or pinion bearing failure when souped up beyond design spec. Something about not handling torque... Subaru uses a similar setup to the Citroën/VW/Porsche style, but they've gone with hypoid gears at least in some of their units. They are possibly more robust. Some VW people even swap them in.

[@GarwoodNick]

I am so glad I read this comment because I was starting to question everything I thought I knew when he said they were spiral gears

[@nadineseelmeyer8488]

All done for more ground clearance...

[@justinw.2376]

Nadine Seelmeyer nope done so the drive shaft don’t hit the underside of your vehicle. The haploid gear meshes with the lower side of the diff ring gear. Not the upper side.

[@lr_discostu]

Land Rover differentials have no hypoid offset.

[@pnutmal]

Being a Carpenter I cringed when you stick your finger on the blade as she was turning . I'm glad your Sixth Sense kicked in and you said that's probably not a good idea . You can't regrow fingers . great video

[@G5Hohn]

If you were teaching shop class, we'd never have a shortage of skilled labor.

[@daylegibson4367]

G5 you mean skookum labour

[@nandayane]

If only shop class still existed as an elective.

[@cjr1881]

Fingerless society

[@BaffledBelief]

@@nandayane it does in the good places

[@edwinmondragon3762]

Fortunately, my school is doubling its shop offerings.

[@Pest789]

I think this was the best product review I've ever had the privilege of viewing, sir.

[@thatcreepyxmastreeinyourat8950]

My wife got me one of these for my birthday this year, built half a dozen decks with it already. It is light, and strong, and cuts straight. And now I know there is a scientific explanation for all it's goodness:) Thank you for the review!

[@ianholder3471]

Dude I randomly came across this but you're an absolute beaut. Thanks for the absurdly in depth look at the saw, I'm just a contractor and understood about a third of what you were talking about, but was thoroughly entertained the whole time. Good job

[@donepearce]

To get UL listing for the tool, any component that connects directly to the mains must carry its own listing - for this saw that means the mains cable and the switch.

[@Kawaiiization]

Wow this is very interesting... I work in a testing department for a competitive company... You got a pretty comprehensive setup there man! SUBBED

[@901EE]

Got one of these years back. First cut was a green 3" pine branch. Jammed the blade, blew the gears out and broke the casting. Makita's sales rep saw my post and sent me a new one. I've been using it for all my circular saw cutting now for maybe 15 years. Good things to say for Makita!!

[@francisbarnett]

Watched a few of your videos over the past few days, these tool reviews are exactly what I had been looking for, although I haven't had the need to buy any tools in a couple of years, I still enjoyed. Subbed

[@samuelclark7252]

Have you got nothing better to do other than watch this.

[@red_freckle]

+Samuel Clark douche.

[@treysawyer]

anyone could ask the same of why you're even here. add something productive or say nothing at all.

[@lawrencelamb9601]

As always, a great video. You are among my favorite channels. I just had to point out one thing. An old Eskimo once told me that if you blow a breaker, you've got some serious problems. Breakers trip, fuses blow. He never let me forget that.

[@1987Drews]

I have cut several hundred rafters, sheet material and studs with this tool. I use it almost everyday at work, and I love watching it auger through 12 inch x 1 3/4 engineered glue lamb. This thing never skips a beat! Thanks for the tear down and informative vid!

[@BigAdam2050]

You insane wizzard. If/when I get a new tool, I treat it like royalty. You just stripping them down boggles my tiny hippy noodle.

[@anthonyhoppe5904]

Great review, much more in- depth than I expected. As a builder who buys a lot of tools,it's a huge help to know which tools are actually worth buying and which ones to rent and buy the damage insurance...Thanks!

[@ChristopherSmith-bh4sz]

You make me laugh, love your no BS reviews! I find my self replaying them back to hear your sayings 'McGyver yourself out'. Classic. Keep them coming.

[@Masztufa]

18:27 "I don't know what sort of thermosetplastic this is, but..." 19:25 starts to drum on the *>PC-GF15

[@Dbaxter261]

Great video as always. There is nobody doing tool reviews and tear downs like this. Keep up the good work Ave

[@CGNF8891]

I've binge-watched most of your uploads, and they're all awesome. Thank you for doing what you do!

[@AznGothic]

I have no clue how I stumbled across these video's of yours. But I'm glad I did. It's about time someone did tear down reviews of tools instead of the same old "I like this tool because I use it so you should buy one too" review. Keep it up!

[@GogogoFolowMe]

That's what I call a tool review, awesome man how you can explain every details and give examples of your own experience ;)

[@bikingmnviking3801]

Something you missed? Holy hell that was more complete and in depth than at a few places I can even understand. *awesome* review, no BS. Thing you _might_ have missed: First let me preface this by saying its been two+ decades since I came out of electronics college but I do clearly remember the 20k ripums motors are series wound and yes they will run on both AC & DC and I am glad you showed that to all the newbies out there (even the 'failure' with the 9 volt batteries is valuable teaching tool because it illustrates low current scenarios which can happen in real life. Like my last house this fellow wired up the garage himself using red and black wire... not only did my circular saw trip the breaker but he had the polarities backward and the voltage was 90VAC. I traced it back to a weak connection which was right under my bedroom and a FIRE HAZARD to boot! After I used compression connectors to rewire it and put the whole mess in a proper electrical box it worked fine. I also added a GFI which saved my life when a cracked droplight cord was in a mess of water that I was standing it. Best $6 I ever spent! ) the signs of a low voltage/low current/bad connection scenario since these are one of the most common issues in electronics. 90% of shit is bad connections and knowing how the load acts helps one diagnose the issue. And you know how valuable it is to be a good/great diagnostician. It's where the real money is. OK, as I was trying to say before I rambled myself out the door and atop the barn: Series wound motors, IIRC, are basically meant to self-destruct with no load on them. Meaning running it without the blade is obviously not good. Testing it in this manner really doesn't tell us much and risks burning the coating off the motor winding wire. Of course this is not how us woodworkers use the tool so either way it is a moot point. After your excellent breakdown I will buy a Makita hypoid saw or angle grinder should I ever need one! (its like a reverse psychology sell!) 8 amps times 120 gives us about 960 watts and at 746 watts per hp that means this is about a 1 1/3 hp @20k ripums noload ... I find that is the only TRUEer # to use when buying tools and even then there is power loss in the gears and bearings but it looks like that Makita would keep it to a minimum. I knew about differentials but not about hypoid gears and *I really appreciate that breakdown & illustration*. Glad you insist on plug in tools since the cordless junk is just all that -- JUNK. Trendy DIY stuff... the only thing I really like/need is my cordless light for occasions under the car, lockwork or in closets/etc. Keep 'em coming!

[@therealstubot]

Having used the magnesium or aluminum bodied worm drive skil and milwaukee saws in residential home building in the lovely but severely wet Washington State USA for several years, I can tell you that the plastic bodies do not shock the bejezus out of you when you are standing in mud, cutting wet wood. Those old skil saws would tingle in the handle even when you were bone dry, and downright juice you when damp. Also, we abused those saws fiercely. Power pole was usually 50 to 100 feet away, and a couple of costco extension cords run up to the house... pull the trigger on the saw and get about 200 rpm out of it with the extension cords smoking hot. We'd saw through truss nail plates that way, cut 4x6 headers, bird mouths on rafter tails, drag them through the mud and up the side of the house by the power cord... they just never seemed to mind, other than bleeding electricity through the body. When one of the saws died, likely due to the gearbox being dry, but no post-mortem was performed, we bought a newfangled at the time, Makita hypoid saw. It performed flawlessly. The carrying handle would break on those, usually when you threw it in the back of the pickup truck. But they were several pounds lighter, and had as much grunt as the skil's had. We bent more of the bottom plates on the makita's though, and the makita would weep more oil out of the gear box, so much so that we had a bottle of oil in the truck and would top off the case about once a week ( which we NEVER did on the skil saws ) As I recall, a new skil 77 was about $200 and the makita was about $180. Skil eventually made the pistol grip on the 77 out of plastic, but it was replaceable which was nice. When I got out of that racket, and bought a house, I tried a circular saw and I simply couldn't use it. The torque and offset of the blade seemed like it was designed to cross up the blade in the wood. I bought a Skil 77 and now I'm a legend in my neighborhood.

[@davidvillegas7565]

Jeff Stewart ty

[@shanegalang9]

House framer here too.........some 21 years ending about 15 years ago. But yeah, couldn't kill a SKIL!! We would pull them up into the joist buy the chord attached to an extension chord. I LOVED the big 60 degree for doing serious cut up roofs here in south Louisiana.

[@gentbar7296]

don say the dreaded racket word... polish plain your diplomatic skills and replace with bubble or derivatives, you'll sound like james bond at the next rummage block party

[@bradylanger9328]

@@gentbar7296 what does it mean if i'm catching on to the ketchup? I never claim to know anything to a certainty, but a certain entity seems to have pit itsself against thee. I understand too much to look away. I feel as though I'm constantly playing catch-up. The guide I seek never cummms!

[@fillg]

I have no idea what all the technical stuff you say means but I do enjoy watching your reviews just to see what's inside of all these tools. Good stuff!

[@TehRamenBrotherz]

I feel like a nerd for catching Dave's quote from EEVblog, Loving your vids, informative and damn entertaining

[@damonstr]

Ruben Briones *thick aussie accent* Don't turn it on, take it apahttttt

[@mastermetalshredder]

I'm kinda surprised at how in depth and serious this review is. You are really giving the word "review" a whole new meaning. Thanks for freezing your butt off so we can have good audio on your videos too. Subscribed, and thumbs up

[@taebinrice1701D]

That plastic slidey useless choocher thing typically has the rfid anti theft strip in it and nothing else in my experience.

[@candoprepper497]

Love the review, just picked one up that was barely used for $10.00 at a thrift store. Very pleased with it!!

[@johnbrentford641]

I have repaired tools for Makita for seven years and I can guarantee you that plastic piece on the cord is not a ferrite toroid. It does not have a Makita part number and you can't get a new one from Makita. The only thing that plastic piece does is container the little security strip that will set off the alarms at the door of the Home Depot.

[@Blookor]

Quite right!

[@censormedaddy]

I was also going to point this out. You are absolutely right. When I buy tools with that plastic thing on them, the first thing I do is smash it off.

[@spoofer20]

I was so confused, doesn't a ferrite torroid need to be connected?

[@jakeb1778]

en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ferrite_bead

[@elizabethmcheffey8699]

Cracked one open couple years back and that’s exactly what it is

[@troywilliams5553]

The only channel I've found that has real technical knowledge from an actual expert. No bobble here. Much thanks. With all your knowledge I would think you'd have made yourself a noiseless heater by now.

[@michaelmurray9154]

I enjoy your videos! Just one comment for your viewers. thermo set plastics unlike thermo plastics won't melt, they burn. General characteristics for thermo set plastic is: good dimensional stability, high strength, resistant to heat, high dielectric strength, low creep etc. Manufacturing downsides, expensive material cost, slower molding cycle times, scrap can't be recycled etc. Keep your stick on the ice! lol. Mike

[@3dsman]

Another tidbit for you. Thermosets are essentially pre-mixed EPOXY based plastic meaning they are curing from the moment they're manufactured (mixed). They're pelletized and shipped frozen and include a thaw-alarm/detector so that when received it can be spotted if any thawing may have occured and hence, rejected. The end-user (manufacturer) then monitors their life as they do expire even in the freezer (shelf-life product). Immediately before use they are put in a pre-heat (thaw) oven (microwave) and then transfer molded (not injection molded).

[@johno9507]

9:00 Sorry mate but most rear wheel drive differentials are hypoid with the pinion meshing below the centre line of crown wheel, which is why they have a big tapered roller bearing to take the thrust of the pinion.

[@jfarrisbraun2977]

Good lord, I wish I had found your reviews so long ago. Thanks for all the extra bits and pieces knowledge/info on random parts, oil, names of keys and all the little engineering radness that pertains to the things you are ripping apart!!! Like that slidy plastic thing on some cords.. Thanks! Will be watching 'em all.

[@annonomis9299]

+AvE It is?! I thought it was some sort of electrical surge protector or something like that...

[@AZStarYT]

I grew up in an aerospace tool and die machine shop. "Graduated" to industrial/medical/computer electronics, then biochemistry, and wound up a laser tech (in a biomed research lab, of all things). This is the FIRST tool review I've actually found interesting and WORTH the time to watch.

[@MrBaconis]

What's the point of the CV preamble?

[@nollid96]

Don't turn it on, take it apart! EVE Blog for the win, make me smile hearing you say that @AvE

[@MTerrance]

Just gorging on old AvE videos. Fascinating watch him deconstruct tools that are WAY out of my price range and still finding things that are not skookum. Also learning a lot about what goes into these things and what trade-offs manufacturers make.

[@bradley3549]

Great vid. One minor quabble though is that automotive differentials definitely use hypoid bevel gears - though the hypoid distance is not as extreme as this saw uses. The highest hypoid gearset in common use was probably the Ford 9", which of course was phased out a long time ago (presumably for efficiency reasons.) Though regardless, most every automotive differential I've messed with has been hypoid and not straight nuts spiral bevel.

[@richarddixon70]

The Ford 9" rear end is still in production at least in the aftermarket in the USA. It is the most common rear end for high performance applications. All NASCAR cars use them and they are very widespread in drag racing. The last car in the USA to use a spiral bevel gear was the Ford Model A. They initially started using hypoid rear ends to lower the driveshaft to reduce the intrusion into the floor. Then they discovered the vastly improved torque capacity over spiral bevel and never went back.

[@benfairhall5331]

This is like listening to my tafe teacher when I a was a apprentice but you just have a way of describing things that I understand easily it’s great

[@oslimybinlyin]

Hey AvE I went out and bought this saw based on your review, It is a succumb saw as you would say, I love it. I was wondering if you could compare it to the Skil SPT77W-01 15 Amp 7 1/4-in Worm Drive Corded Circular Saw. I look forward to seeing your breakdown and comparison between the worm drive and the hypoid drive. keep up the good work P.S your reviews of tools are the best and most in-depth, and really gives tradesmen the info they need to buy to tools that are truly going to outlast us.........which is really what you want out of a tool.

[@keithklassen5320]

Succumb... I do not think it means what you think it means. Skookum is the word you seek.

[@robertfrance1160]

greetings from florida. keep up the great work on the reviews, you are the only one that tears them down and shows the inner workings of the tong yang. would like to add one little tidbit when checking for shaft hardness one should collect the filings and put them in the hypoid reservoir this will give you many years of quiet reliable operation its like gear tumbling. dude you crack me up. thanks i needed that seeeyu

[@misterguts]

You know, AvsE, those jump-cuts around power tools make me itch. I keep expecting a jump-cut to a (hopefully simulated) severed finger and loud screaming. THAT would bring the show to a close right away. Maybe you can target that saw with your IR camera, give us a temperature profile? Great teardown video, thanks!

[@MrPotatochips4]

I got one of these in 1988, when I was working in a furniture restoration shop. Also got a extra heavy 25' extension cord. I ripped many 9/4 maple boards, the table saw we had was small and not up to it. Also done some framing. I did replace the cord 2005. Also flatened the base plate after seeing Japanese carpenters using the saws made there for non-export. The brushes are about half gone. Paid for itself in about a year. So about 30yrs of gravy - thanks Makita!

[@bobsofia68]

"...finishing schools these days, ain't what they used to be." ... nearly fell off the couch.

[@alanclark9984]

Awesome, eh?

[@shanerr929]

Dude you seem super hands on and I really respect how you tore this brand new saw apart , and did it with the confidence that you can reassemble it ... I know you know your stuff... Help me out here .. You made it very clear that in your car 's differential there is basically just a spiral bevel gear set that transmits power from the pinion to the crown ... But actually your car has a Hypoid gear set . And the reason for this is that the very much older cars had a spiral bevel gear set to transmit power from the transmission to the rear differential ... The only problem with this was that the encasement for the driveshaft was so high in the interior of the car, that this was the reason why there was that giant hump in the middle of the car that " We as little kids were always told to ride in the middle while in the backseat !!! Later on car companies came up with the Hypoid Gear Set ... This kept the drive shaft and housing lower in the car . Which gives more foot space in the car , and is actually more quiet and yes more efficient than the old spiral bevel setup .. I mean no disrespect , i love learning new shit all the time , so please tell me if you agree or disagree and why ....

[@beyondthelol]

+shanerr929 but even modern rwd cars have the transmission tunnel too dont they?

[@Nox665]

18:27 The case is made of polycarbonate, as written on the case itself at 19:21 That >PC-GF15< stamped on the plastic means polycarbonate reinforced with 15% of glass fibers.

[@martincunningham3052]

nice catch! and a bad ass material, almost like bullet proof glass

[@horste9237]

It is the material used in bullet proof glass.

[@horste9237]

@@8bits59 Not quite. PC has superior optical properties. It's indeed clear as glass. And other than glas it's very tought and doesn't break on impact.

[@8bits59]

@@horste9237 that makes sense, thanks for the info! I knew it was something special about PC, they didn't just pick any ol plastique.

[@lesleyhiddins2067]

I've only just discovered this channel and I love it. Learning soooo much about power tools, thanks

[@McGeesFabLab]

You are incorrect on Spiral bevel gears in automobiles Ave. The have not been widely used in a very long time. The hypoid gear is the standard for Most if not all autos on the road.

[@danielgoetz7821]

Just going your channel today. Bought my Hypoid saw about 6 years ago, it still works great. Fun fact, you really can NOT change out the blade with a cut off wheel. The case will catch fire. 😆 No biggie, I got to buy a 60v Cordless Dewalt 😃

[@shmio]

So about 4 videos ago I was worried that this was becoming my new favorite channel. I'm no longer worried.

[@Regnisab]

Can't believe I watched a saw review and learned a lot and really enjoyed it! Can't get me the sit through a movie but this had me spellbound.

[@rogiervs420420]

"So what does that actually mean to you and me? The guys with the big arms and the little heads on the dumb end of the tape measure" "electrocity" I`m in tears hahahahah, seriously good entertainment value and much learny things. Could fill a book with you quotes. grand stuff!

[@Swassticles]

I don't know anything about tools, but I love watching these, I'm learning and laughing all at the same time, you're an awesome dude, thanks for making these!

[@youtubasoarus]

Well that was surprisingly in depth. Great vid.

[@russellbishop317]

By far the best tool review I have ever watched (and I've watched a lot). So much so, that I feel compelled to let you know.

[@vreference]

@ 9:15 or so - For what it's worth, every automotive differential that isn't a novelty is Hypoid. Ford 9", 8.8" - Dana... everything. GM x-Bolt... Not the Model-T axle though.

[@troublesomez24]

I saw one of your reviews on reddit last week and I've been watching them ever since. Love them, keep em up!

[@BlowDevilUp]

"He's a good man, and thorough." -Maude Lebowski

[@YounRangr]

Thanks for your video. My hypoid just recently cancel out on me for an unknown reason. It's relatively brand new, buying it around late 2020 and it hasn't had a lot of use except for a few projects. It has been a great accessory except for it not switching on as of recently. Your vid helps to break down what could be the issue which could be the switch being burnt out. Wish me luck.

[@justingreen8006]

Love the eevblog reference. "don't turn it on, take it apart."

[@yusufdubois8680]

been watching so much AvE it reads "take it A-part"

[@domakent]

Swoooit channel. The content is A1 already. But when you add in the Canadian chit-chat (of which we Australians have little exposure to), you have yourself a cherry/cake scenario on your hands. Very like!!

[@autonomousindividual7780]

I called makita. They had a part number for the lube. Crazy expensive at $34 for an ounce. Guy was kind enough to tell me that its 90wt or VG 220. I just ordered Mobil SHC 630 to change it after my new saw breaks in. Can bear the thought of never changing it. Great video. Wish you could do a bunch more. But that would be costly.

[@autonomousindividual7780]

***** Please comment on this if you can. How can I be sure this SHC 630 will not attack the seals. Ive seen some posting the said seal compatibility is pretty good but it attacked some nitrile seals. I know Makita wouldn't get down in the weeds esp because they sell the oil as a part. Anyway, just curious what you think the chances are that I'd have an issue.

[@j.b.8767]

Man, that was the best tool review I've EVER watched!! Thank you, brother!!

[@MikeBaxterABC]

AvE ! .. you seem like a Millwright! ... I worked as a Millwright and conratior of years. One time I worked for a couple hours at a our gun club with 3 car batteries running my old Sears saw (a worm drive Skilsaw private labeled) ... worked fine for the 1X6's we were cross cutting! ... mine is labeled "AC / DC" I think because back in the day (before inverters) there used to be popular DC converter kits for GM alternators ... you just flipped a switch run the RPM up till the voltage was 120VDC or so .. and had power all day.

[@davida.5683]

That was a dam fine review segment. Wow... Greetings and thanks from Nashville,Tn.

[@Altenurgy]

I always thought the purpose of 120v DC tools was so you could run them off of the big portable AC/DC welders that had 120v household style outlets them. We used to work a welder that would always warn us about our tools needing to be DC rated before we plugged into his welder for power.

[@smclynden]

Almost all rear differentials of cars/trucks are hypoid gears...rears are typically below the centerline (far stronger due to the direction they spin) and referred to as low pinion, while front differentials, the high pinion (pinion above centerline) is stronger... This has to do with the gears pulling themselves together, this is also why you should NEVER use a 4x4 to pull something in reverse...as the gears are substantially weaker in reverse.. I do love your videos and you sir are a genius and seem like an all around great guy... Keep the vids comin!

[@NitroAuto77]

Can you put together a video covering your glossary of technical terms?

[@nicknewell23]

^

[@stranger5088]

Pat Maloney yeah it is. It means good. Skookem as frig means it’s even better.

[@Mainbusfail]

Best tool review from KZbin I have seen so far

[@Draxel]

As a non-native english speaker, I had no idea what you we're talking about. I'm sure it was pretty smart though!

[@WolfManJammer]

Best review yet. Truly enjoyed the knowledge and comical banter ratio. I thought that I was the last one to use the phrase "for shits and giggles". Cheers man, keep the good info coming.

[@byronsabird]

When the Hypoid first came out I bought one and really liked the extra power and RPM that it put out, over the Skill, and especially the weight difference .I liked the Hypoid so much better than the Skill that I continued to replace the Hypoid about once a year , as the drive gear would burn up and wasn't replaceable , for five or six years, The Skill saw I was using is still working fine, but the energy and time I saved made it well worth the cost,

[@jamescarter9294]

I HAVE this saw and I love it. Thank you for this in depth video. It is just what it feels like in your hands!

[@rummy98]

The saw is gonna last FOR...EVER! Guaranteed!... This is not a guarantee. lol.

[@maxk4324]

I once had to install a 4" diameter internal snap ring into the tail end of solid rocket motor, which we had to buy special vice clamping pliers for (over $100!). I had a rule that when I was installing it, no one could walk through the same plane as the snap ring incase it flew off. Absolutely heart stopping.

[@mwilliamshs]

3:29 "if we had 120 volts DC this would run just fine" It'd be hard on the switch though. DC arcs. AC doesn't.

[@WarrenGarabrandt]

Jacob's Ladder wants to know your location.

[@johntrauger68]

Having bought the very same tool some time back I'm quite relieved and informed.

[@Not_Whelan]

Loved the intermission music, AvE :)

[@severnia]

First review of yours i have watched, kick ass! didn't expect to find one that wasn't "Have Makita, cuts wood, real good, buy now!"

[@MikeAndLaurenTV]

Curious how you would rank the major brands. Personally I've always put Makkita and Bosch in one category, Rigid, Dewalt, and Millwaukee below that, Ryobi and Kobalt, then Harbour Freight.

[@jrmym2]

You're ignoring a lot of brands like Fein, Metabo, and Festool.

[@superdau]

jrmym2 Not only that. Bosch has the blue (professional) and the green (occasional use) line (at least here in Europe), as has Metabo (green = high quality, blue = DIY level with Metabo label slapped on it)

[@phogelbice]

We got several festool at the job and they take alot of abuse of oversized drills and holesaws etc none have ever broken down, but the chucks are crap imo, but they are anywhere between 4 and 10 years old. I like hitachi cordless drills they are a bit flimsy but very nice grip and really good power, i know of some broken gearboxes though.

[@larsonhomeinspection9932]

1. Metabo, Fein, Festool, Hilti 2. Milwaukee 3. Makita, DeWalt 4. Bosch, Rigid 5. Porter Cable, Hitachi 6. Craftsman , Skil, Ryobi 7. Black & Decker 8. Rest of em- don't bother!

[@jamescline2726]

Common on....what about about HILTI??? DUH? This site is full of residential contractors and the weekend warriors.

[@ositomoose]

One of my favorite reviews of all time.. Great explanation, review and analysis.. Thank you !

[@shackwrrr]

Automotive differentials use hypoid and amboid type gear sets. The only differentials that I know of that use a spiral bevel(or spur never seen inside one) would be oils model T fords.

[@paratrooper7340]

This is the best by far review of any tool I've watched on line - right up there with the man from Australia who reviews spinning reels, of course his name escapes me off hand but he's easy enough to find. This was the first review by you that I've seen but I'm hoping to find more reviews by you.

[@rmyc]

Nsk is a Japanese bearing

[@TheRealRobeh]

Great review. Can't believe i watched the whole thing but it opened my DiY eyes to how tools like these are made. Excellent job.

[@NimsChannel]

I got the magnesium version of this saw after I watched this video. Someone grabbed my cordless Bosch and they ended up making it shoot a foot long flame out the back end. Basically if I don't watch my saw it starts moving farther away from the other carpenters walking over to use it.

[@Thegreenman]

Nice to watch a guy that knows what he's doing and we can learn from 👍

[@NoGufff]

I've finally worked out what BOLTR means. What a fucking relief.

[@telefon72]

+NoGufff Please do share.

[@NoGufff]

+telefon72 Well, it's not acronymised in the title of this video.

[@micromachine7954]

+telefon72 "Bored Of Lame Tool Reviews"

[@telefon72]

Ron Garvin Yeah, if you would care to read the rest of the comments here, you would have known, that i figured it out...

[@micromachine7954]

telefon72 Well you don't have to be a dickhole about it.

[@manwithouteyes]

My dad taught me the grease trick with woodruff keys back when we tore apart the transmission of his lawn tractor after I broke it. Thanks for the memory!

[@NickFotopoulos]

I know ratings are mostly useless, but you should include a Skookum Rating on each video that is based on the number of times you actually say Skookum in the video...lol

[@meeksdigital]

+1 for skookum rating. This is a must.

[@gentbar7296]

definitely

[@vannk73]

His awareness of the new rating system would taint the results.

[@michaellohre1470]

Came over from Essential Craftsman. Yeah man, you are rocking good and smart and funny. Never tried a Makita but will now.

[@doubleboost]

Great video no shit just facts

[@bodders1029]

+doubleboost 15:00?

[@afrog2666]

Was gonna say..

[@charlesalberti563]

I still use my grandpa's black and decker circ saw from ages ago, keeps up with the best of them

[@ItsJustKnight]

gonna have to make sure my dad keeps the skill saw. I hear it's right skookum.

[@deefdeefdeef]

Impressive mechanical tear down. Love all the nerdy mechanical discussion. I learn something every time. Thanks.

[@Raul28153]

An old injection mold shop manager showed me to burn a Known polymer and the stench of the smoke after you blow the flame out will be utterly unique from polymer to polymer and - - you will never forget it the stink is so unique.

[@rickwoud4319]

+AvE is that intermission scence from austria or germany?

[@Sc-tch]

My stepdad, a plastics engineer, had us learn those smells. I can tell nylon from polypropylene, but now I usually can't remember my name. Priorities.

[@222varminter]

Thank you! That's a review I watched every second of and loved it! XD I sometimes repair old power tools, so seeing the guts, machining and "magic goo" in this machine was very interesting and informative! Thumbs up!!!

[@Bunnyonabender]

You had me at "distinctive stank"

[@markbonham3477]

Great review Ave and keep them coming along with your angelic way of communicating with us!