I Upgraded My Ball Vise

He put his what in a vise
This is essentially ball vise 1.5. not the most packed video content wise but I felt it was worth making given how popular the design is already. Also needed to make a full build guide anyways so.
Music: Minecraft soundtrack
Parts, Main ball: www.printables.com/model/8231...
Parts, XL base: www.printables.com/model/8420...
Turntable used: www.amazon.com.au/dp/B08DCZRL...
Follow my socials:
Instagram: borge_design
twitter- / borgey5
thingiverse- www.thingiverse.com/borgey/de...
Like subscribe all that stuff
My name is Chris, I am a 3D printing hobbyist from australia. I dont really specialise in anything specific, but 3D printed tools and tabletop accessories are some things youll probably seen quiet often. I do all my 3d printing on a Ender 3, which I highly recommend as a budget printer. Currently I only run 1 printer but I hope to expand that in the future. Recently acquired a photon 0 to do resin printing with. I like to share all my 3D printing ideas for free although I do plan to sell stuff in the future. Most of my projects will be mostly 3D printed with a few non printed components included, these can often be found on ebay. I actually use the cheapest filament I can get for all my projects, again I hope to change this in the future.

[@viduraherath4008]

Im so glad that its called a ball vise because of the shape of the vise and not what goes in the vise

[@RADkate]

i was searching for a smaller one and quite literally that came up 💀💀💀

[@baconwizard]

I’m so glad you chose to revisit one of your old projects to make it better. So many other KZbinrs will make it good enough for the video and then throw it off to the side.

[@crunchybones2528]

it was posted a few weeks ago, its hardly an "old" project that we should have been expecting to be left abandoned

[@avibank]

No he originally made it 10 years ago on his first channel.

[@anon_y_mousse]

I feel like this should be a project that every maker takes on.

[@AmateurSuperFan]

did anyone else click this video for a different reason?

[@jacrify]

Your shot of the Bunnings bolt section gave me PTSD. So many times I've done a 12 hour print, ducked down to Bunnings, and realised I'm gonna have to redo the print to compensate for their poor inventory management :)

[@Sheevlord]

Pre-existing rust shouldn't cause concrete to crack. Cracks occur when the steel that's already inside the concrete starts to rust, because rust takes up more space than the steel did before rusting, which causes expansion. It shouldn't happen if you keep the concrete base indoors, but if you're worried you can seal the concrete using special sealer that would prevent more moisture from entering through the porous surface.

[@davidbrennan7422]

You don't need to worry about the steel inside the concrete. concrete is an alkaline material which creates a passivation layer on the surface of the steel. Since your concrete isn't stressed, it's unlikely to form cracks which will allow water to get in and damage that passivation layer and cause corrosion of the steel. If you're really worried about it, you could paint it with some regular lyx pint something similar to waterproof the exposed surfaces

[@Zakupla_Builder]

Exactly. Rusty concrete is used in the construction industry as the increased friction increases its effectiveness in reinforced concrete members. As stated by another comment, the alkaline environment will inhibit rust progression.

[@conorstewart2214]

@@davidbrennan7422 the concrete is just there for weight anyway, you could just use sand or gravel too, so cracks in the concrete don’t really affect its use. Also in this application water getting in likely isn’t too much of a concern anyway.

[@davidbrennan7422]

@@conorstewart2214 Yep, completely agree

[@nasuku7342]

oh I am IN LOVE WITH THIS. I was holding off on printing cause Im moving out soon, but this is just too cool! I am planning on printing your version, but also using your design as a template for my own smaller version for gundam painting. Amazing work here!

[@HighBeanz]

Oh! A wild GUNDAM FAN appeared!

[@thanatos454]

Add exhaust fan attached to an adjustable arm to help pull the smoke away from your face as you work. I'm thinking a simple PC fan. You could feed it to a hose duct to route it out a window. Have the option to flip the direction of the fan so you can have something cooling you off while you work.

[@conorstewart2214]

It is very easy to make a simple filter system too, just use a PC fan with a cheap carbon filter in front of it. Maybe add a HEPA filter if you really wanted. A carbon filter is all you need for something like soldering.

[@NeoIsrafil]

He's got a Kirby solder exhaust eater fan thing on his thingiverse page 😂

[@dankcincy]

I absolutely LOVE this project!!!

[@I.no.ah.guy57]

Man you always come up with some awesome projects! Great work Also, missed opportunity to mount your mini fume extractor on the vise!!

[@hanksyflamework]

just saw the video without the improvements, seeing this version 1.5 update was great, susbcribing for more low cost and simple diy and very usable tool ideas

[@wh0tube]

It may be missing an ice-maker, but it has pretty much everything else covered! 😍👍👍

[@DaveEtchells]

Wow, this thing is an absolute tour de force of design awesomeness now! It was already great, but the tweaks and add-ons raise it to legendary levels! Thanks so much for sharing all the design files!

[@Praecantetia]

Fiy I'm currently in the process of making this and greatly appreciated that updated BOM. I do have to say, seeing a update video so close after starting to buy the metal bolts gave me a spook thinking you'd revisioned it to be bigger with better sizes and such.

[@ScottFleckenstein]

Well, I guess my printer has a job to do. Wonderful work! Bravo!

[@Raymond-Wu]

Great work on the upgrades! I held off on building mine waiting for this video!

[@TheChillieboo]

awesome development ! love seeing that iterative process bear fruit. Great work!

[@binaryspace6444]

Such a wild and nifty holder, really awesome design! Found you on the printables page for this and you earned another subscriber after watching the video!

[@CusterSurvivors]

I have been working on parts for this very thing. This is crazy. I went modular at first. Tip: Cannibalize from stop-motion armatures, 3d printer frames, etc. Robotic arms are spendy. I'm going to shut up and watch your video now. I can't believe this. By the way, my project started as a way for people with essential tremors to reengage in their hobbies. Whittling, airbrush, stenciling, painting. My therapist is going to love your video!!!

[@davidbrennan7422]

It looks like you're using a screw and a series of depressions around the perimeter of the rotating bearing to lock the bearing in place, which I think is a good idea. I wonder if you could create an adjustable friction mechanism by having a plane bearing surface and a low friction or medium friction surface like a piece of felt that you could adjust with the screw to create an adjustable resistance rotation rather than simply a stop.

[@Miscast]

I'm very excited to build one, thank you for sharing your process mate, this will be great for sculpting miniatures.

[@chettiarsirusraj9501]

A vibrating pen or rod from amazon would be a great tool to have if you intend to do more future projects with concreate since it will seal the concreate surface better and make it less brittle or powder like when it's dried up. The concreate will be more uniform when drying up rather then full of air bubbles as it is dried up.

[@tetros2064]

very very very good. Marvelous indeed. Thank you for bestowing thy wisdom upon me

[@lewsdiod]

Looks amazing, nice work!

[@Luke-yx5ve]

Literally amazing dont often see something with this much Ingenuity

[@mirag3304]

That handrest option is wonderful. I'm always having to find a way to support my arm/wrist when I solder because of the tremor in my dominate hand. I'm looking into painting miniatures as well, so I'm loving this project.

[@kingyachan]

I started getting the hardware together to make the V1 of this, but some stuff got in the way and didnt have time to start on it, and I'm glad I got delayed and can now pivot to this version!

[@weistonaski6924]

Please consider adding this thing : Spherical parallel manipulator from MakeBreakRepair This would add even more power to this thing to paint figures and such (maybe other use case i didn't tought of)

[@petersilva4242]

Great project

[@endidasdis]

Thanks for sharing

[@theBoonarmies]

classic hardware store misadventure. Go there for 1 specific thing, they're out of it.

[@ericmorriscompany9648]

I used a shot put ball to make chasing balls. The Olympic official weight is 7.2kg but you can buy training versions in heavier or lighter. They are right cast iron so they need to have the entire outer surface ground and sanded smooth. And you will need to machine a flat face. There is a hole drilled to adjust to the desired weight that can be used for fixtures.

[@prototype4571]

its so beautiful

[@Guds777]

When rusted metal is covered in concrete it will stop rusting and it will not crack the concrete, lack of steel reinforcement and thermal expansion will crack the concrete. If the concrete layer is to thin around the steel, water can get to it and make it rust. Although steel’s natural tendency is to undergo corrosion reactions, the alkaline environment of concrete (pH of 12 to 13) provides steel with corrosion protection. At the high pH, a thin oxide layer forms on the steel and prevents metal atoms from dissolving. This passive film does not actually stop corrosion; it reduces the corrosion rate to an insignificant level. For steel in concrete, the passive corrosion rate is typically 0.1 µm per year. Without the passive film, the steel would corrode at rates at least 1,000 times higher...

[@conorstewart2214]

The concrete isn’t really structural and is just there for weight so cracks shouldn’t really matter, you could do the same just filling it with gravel or sand.

[@conorstewart2214]

Rather the recutting the threads and using nuts you could just screw directly into the plastic. It holds perfectly fine but only lasts a few times being screwed or unscrewed.

[@KF-qj2rn]

an .au guy who filled his milling machine frame did same, he used granite epoxy and junk metal bits. if you can't buy lead shot in bags, can melt it and fine drizzle off a height, more than 10 feet into water tank, assumes spherical shape in flight, the smallest balls possible (dust would be perfect but hard and dangerous)...pour these with epoxy into half sphere.

[@erggml1887]

If you live in an area where reloading supplies are a thing you can get, lead birdshot for shotguns would be significantly easier to mix and pour into the concrete. The birdshot are small lead spheres, so mixing will be even easier than the wheel weights. Additionally, the birdshot is smaller in size than the wheel weights and can simply be mixed into the concrete prior to pouring. Alternatively, you might look for tungeston powder, heavier than lead and even easier to mix into concrete.

[@EnlightenedSavage]

If the ball was magnetic you could use magnets to "clamp" it in place.

[@joshuamurphy4928]

I'm going to have to get a printer just to make this. I need one of these for my scale models. This would do everything I would need it to.

[@WoLpH]

For the dovetail it would be nice to have a camlock to very quickly lock/unlock it for fast swapping of options. That might work for other parts too :)

[@kidnex1]

This went from "I should make this" to "I need to make this"

[@Heidegaff]

Holy shit this is actually great, I could seriously build myself one

[@TheLargedwarf]

This project is great, I'm surprised you haven't included a lamp adapter yet, but it's probably only a matter of time

[@MrBricks148]

Hey mate, bolt and nut will let you order small qtys of fasteneers, price is in between bulk and bunnings so i'd say it's pretty worth checking out.

[@TheRodlund]

So awesome. I'm glad I waited to print it until the upgraded version was complete. That Magic Arm is pretty sweet, I've heard of them, but do you have a link to the version with that clamp on the end? It seems super useful.

[@Borgedesigns]

Its an indicator holder, not a clamp, which is why I didnt actually show it being used in the video lol.

[@leoetcheverry9685]

When you recut the treads 😱 This supermarket is 🤬

[@conorstewart2214]

When soldering, especially when up closer to your face, make sure you wear glasses or goggles. All it takes is the flux to spit and it could end up in your eyes which is not very good for them. Also a good upgrade would be an extractor fan. Any fan, most commonly a PC fan, plus a cheap carbon filter will suck the fumes away and get rid of them.

[@Alex_Vir]

4:10 little did they know we still couldn't see the tip.

[@Max-tj7bp]

Where can we donate you some metric screws 😅 great product! Will also make one!

[@richard-6920]

While the amount of complexity might make it extremely unnecessary, have you thought about making a version with a spherical parallel manipulator instead of the ball?

[@chaosordeal294]

I suspect that clamping to the work surface beats the heavy base, and the hemisphere could be replaced by a single joint on a rotating base.

[@adamfilipowicz9260]

i like it except the concrete... rather just trap some screws/lead weights/ball bearings under a cover. perhaps some ballast seperators would be needed

[@giuseppebonatici7169]

I would recommend to print the "concrete-related" parts with PETG. why? PLA degrades in contact with concrete. concrete is highly alkaline and attacks the PLA to generate lactate salts. It is worse when you try to reinforce concrete with PLA, but the same problem should arise: the concrete will not adhere to the PLA as the boundary layer of lactates (that generate initially, and grows over time) is powdery. there is quiet a bit of research, PETG (in the cheaper end, of course) is the best for reinforcing concrete (as does not react at all, and their properties are not crap like ABS/ASA) PLA is good for everything else that do not store energy for long periods of time (creeping problems). ABS/ASA is best for high temp apps but not exposed to UV (but if you are already spraying cancer particles and toxic fumes, you could just use PC if your machine can melt it)

[@DeathCoreGuitar]

Imagine 3D printed feet from 75A TPU for true grip

[@patrickjoyce8355]

A note on weights. When I made a ball telescope, I needed a counter weight and I used BBs in epoxy. BBs and cement would probably be even better. It’s a good source of mass that can be acquired new at a relatively low price.

[@b03tz]

Just a quick question, but why not fill it with sand and completely close the covers?

[@NKCubed]

are you going to change the V1 printables page? the current descriptoin link goes to that one

[@Borgedesigns]

Updated now

[@littlehills739]

for $40 you can buy a steel shotput athletic throwing ball off fle bay :) then print the ball size u want

[@mrmas2535]

Hi Chris, do you have a link to the table bearing you used?

[@christopherfisher4819]

Came here to ask this. I watched the new video but can’t find the detailed product link.

[@Borgedesigns]

Linked now :)

[@mrmas2535]

@@Borgedesigns thank you!

[@ryanokeefe12]

Rust won't cause the concrete to crack over time. Not sure where that person/people got that information. The surface rust actually helps with the bond to the concrete and once the concrete has cured, the rusting process stops. Rusty reinforcement is installed into concrete slabs every single day. Concrete cancer is probably what they're assuming will happen, but concrete cancer will only start if a portion of the steel is exposed to water/oxygen.

[@AndyLundell]

Even if the rust on the nails did progress enough to stress or even crack the concrete, so what? It's not a structural piece. It's not going to crumble into gravel, and that's how bad it would have to get before it's a problem.

[@SilentShiba]

ohh nooo not the coupling nuts again in the design. I had such a pain in the ass time finding those

[@Borgedesigns]

Ive added a printed version, even if its weaker, or you could just use two m8 nuts you just have less thread to use.

[@SilentShiba]

@@Borgedesigns I ended up using to 5/16 nuts (as you know, these are nearly interchangeable). Thanks for designing in a printable version

[@davidrobertson5700]

VICE !

[@Quasar0406]

smoking is a vice. this is a vise

[@davidrobertson5700]

@@Quasar0406 Clearly you need to educate yourself by reading the Oxford ENGLISH dictionary. 👍 Trump supporter per chance ? 🤔

[@Quasar0406]

@@davidrobertson5700 You are not sane

[@davidrobertson5700]

@@Quasar0406 Go away you uneducated individual, you accuse me of being what you are clearly are. You seem narcissistic and the life of the party aren't you ?

[@jakobhansen1396]

Concrete engineer here, as long as the rust is not loose (DK gravrust) the alkalinity and minerals in concrete attacks the rust and create a seal bonding tigthly around the steel protecting it from further corrosion. Any plating with zinc (or loose rust) will also be attacked but seperated from the steel as a loose black powder, hence the necessity for the spacer on the bolt. Using rusty material includes a mandatory shaking and thats it. A vibrator will also help on the casting, leveling up from the prodding with sticks from the last video. Massage anything or a drill with hammer function on the table does the trick horribly loud

[@OpIsForNoobs]

I’m a bot and I approve of this video

[@littlehills739]

ask for a ball at 10pin bowling and explain u have a project cost nothing to ask

[@bromine_35]

Luckily this device is a ball vise and not a ball vise

[@MikeKasprzak]

I'm an apartment dweller, and the need for concrete is where I hit a dead end. 🤔

[@Quasar0406]

there's concrete in the sidewalk

[@Quasar0406]

it's just sitting there

[@Quasar0406]

have you ever seen anyone guarding the sidewalk concrete

[@TylerKrick]

you could use sand instead, and cap it with glue or epoxy

[@michelefiste760]

Most home improvement stores carry small quantities for patches 1 bucket would probably be enough for the whole project

[@jp9403]

That turntable does not ship to the United States.

[@Borgedesigns]

Added a US link to the same product

[@viktorhillar5145]

Metals doesnt rust inside concrete cuz the pH is too low. Thats why you dont need stainless steel rebars.

[@ScottFleckenstein]

sorry, you're mistaken: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o4Cme3l5lr2BZtU

[@Labrat009]

can you print an ankle breaker/snapper please?

[@Borgedesigns]

of course :)))))

[@robertsheldrick4267]

Bet you are forced to shop at bummings. I could go there 100 times and 2 times walk out with what I went in for.

[@Riku0990]

This is WAAAY off topic, but you caught me off guard while I was in a bad mood. Could we just entirely abolish the use of the term "bolt" for machine SCREWS. I acknowledge that as a Finnish mechanical engineer, our taught terminology is based on the German DIN standards, which recognizes a total of _zero_ BOLTS, but as I haven't been able to locate any relevant discussion online on the topic of: how silly it is to define the name of your standard mechanical fastener not via geometry, but by its application (a regular machine screw threaded into some base material makes it a "screw", while the exact same machine screw going through a blind hole into a nut suddenly becomes a "bolt"?!) I feel compelled to call out just how plain idiotic the UK/US scheme is. In my loss of temper I feel no remorse ranting that the ANSI-mob, vying to hold on to the good old times of the 1800's, should feel just as much inferiority over this, as they should over having hold-over industries that still deal in "imperial" over metric (BTW, what kind of name is that, "Imperial system"? Sounds like something a nation born out of rebellion against its imperial masters, would vigorously fight to disavow)

[@user-qd8og5he7w]

дерьмо придумал ! еще и цементом залил ? вы че там жрете в своей америке ?позор