what a genius idea

T-nuts and vibration ?

Where can I find the files for the vice attachment please?

What about some fancy strong filament for the gears?

That’s a useful contribution to the world.

i recently just got a Bambu P1s and I have always wanted a metal lathe, pref cnc :D but so expensive for a useful one. Hopefully, your ideas are the answers to my dreams. Also, can you make CNC router for us please!!!

I would love to see a lever operated tool like on actual large metal working lathes. That would make a build like this much more versatile for all sorts of builds. Very cool build! I would never have thought you could make a good tool like this with 3d printing!

Very nice

A rice grain with holes, looks like a tiny button. Cool

Thats nothing...I printed a 3D printer!! :)

mate, the things you do in these vids are utterly fascinating. thanks for the effort you go to for making these.

Don't use superglue to glue together printed parts, use "3D Gloop" It's a special adhesive specifically made for gluing PLA, PETG and ABS/ASA. The bond is incredibly stronger than superglue or even welding with a soldering iron, in the tests the layers gave up before the glued part did. Give it a try

Very nicely done video. Informative, visually appealing, concise. I also do design and 3d printing. I have to say how impressed I am with your design which also included a first class case. First class.

Was in the process of making this, but i don't have rusty nails from the box of treasure found in the abandoned fort in the valley in Australia. A plane ticket from Norway was way too expensive Could you please ship me some so i can finish the build ? Thanks matey

I just bought a 3D printer to make my own tools. Then I find your channel. I like the tools you create and share.

Great video! I've been trying to print small gears in a 3D printer without any success, I guess it's time to buy a Resin printer.

Nice project !

this is a great idea! i am currently making this and i don't quite get why it is necessary to print the dove tail and the vise adaptor plate seperate instead of making it one print. In the end they are glued together anyways and the nuts could be inserted through the dovetail too, right? Am i missing something?

Because of the orange plastic, your lathe reminds me of those modular, multi-purpose lathe / mill / drill machine tools you can buy online, although I think yours looks nicer. I never took those multi-tools very seriously because they seemed too weak and flimsy. The use of concrete in your lathe must give it some real credible rigidity though. I've heard of 3d printed lathes and concrete lathes, but yours is the first time I've heard of the two coming together. Congratulations on a very clever idea!

M5x0.8 and 10-32 are so close that they're interchangeable in some cases. Other than that, your video nicely illustrates how bad the threads are after re-cutting. I would only trust such a screw for non-critical applications, like when you only need it to _look_ like you used a screw.

Now cnc it and make a thread!

Wow!

Your work is absolutely incredible. Definitely following along!

Prusa put your vise in the new Prusa Core 1 video !!! You're a star now !

Instead of concrete maybe resin with iron powder (if stainless is available that would be better) The metal would give you the density you want while the resin would take up more space (less air than concrete has) and easier to pour

i recently had the same idea of filling printed forms with concrete for machining tools. this video has emboldened me to sink money into it lol

This series is giving me similar vibes to the Gingery books. Make a printed shaper next! Then you can use it to make proper ways for your tools. Tools to build tools!

Seriously impressive!

A nice mod for this would be the ability to feed a 2020, 3030 etc extrusion through the base, hold it straight and true, and tap the end of the extrusion for a blind joint. Maybe by hanging the front end of the tapper over the edge of the workbench

Marking with a caliper. SHAME on you. The Rest of the Video is wonderfull, but the Marking killed erverything. 😊

tapered roller bearings need preload to work well, which you havn't given and the plastic wouldn't support anyway. you might get better results with a double row angular contact bearing on the front end and a normal axial bearing on the rear. also if useing unsealed bearings you NEED to provide a chip guard or it's going to get crunchy really quickly as the grease picks up every little chip.

Wow this is a really cool video

I agree some way to quickly lock in place would be a must for us painters :) as well as to lock in place if we were fitting out a PCB as when soldering a move at the wrong time can cause wasted time from have to clean solder from a spot not needing to be soldered :). I would probably use old lead sinkers instead of rusting iron/steel as rusting metal will just keep rusting even inside the concrete and eventually cause the concrete to crack, just like concrete stumps under Houses do as the metal reenforcing rusts over time as I had to replace all the stumps of my house as they were all in different stages of breaking apart. Just a thought as I noticed a lot of rusty metal not just a few pieces :)

Mate. This is so hecking awesome and I shall be building it

Concrete metal lathes have been a thing for a long time. So you have a solid idea.

Awesome design and Awesome build bro! Very well done.

I think this is very clever

This is terrific. I did some early research into what I called secondary injection techniques for printed parts back when I worked at Honda in R&D in 2008 / 2009. It never occurred to me to look into concrete. Amazing results for such little expense (other than intelligence, blood, sweat and tears). Well done mate.

this is amazing

This is amazing.

You wouldn't download a car?

Can you print a full sized borosilicate glass lather?

That is such an awesome idea but working around a fast spinning machine made of plastic, concrete and dreams is scary ngl

Don’t you pack the bearings with grease? And put a seal on either side

Awesome!

That professor has a really unique look, like an old baby somehow, with Jessica Rabbit lips, almost a cartoon character.

you need to build a small concrete pump, it will make you life easier for more future projects

This is a brilliant design and build. You have talent! As a picky person, I do notice something with the 3D printed parts. Or at least some. Especially those "rails", like at 5:39 where you put some stuff on it to get a smooth surface. I noticed that on that piece, when you first placed it where it belongs, that there were a lot of filament strands on top. Strands that didn't melt together well. Been there, done that! I hate when that happens. But I found a solution, that at least, works for me. Actually, 2 solutions, but one you may or may not like. The 1st one, is to enable "Ironing", perhaps printing those parts separately and tweaking the settings for ironing so assure it works on that entire surface. Ironing does 2 things, as I suspect you know. For one, it makes a really smooth and solid finish. It also creates more strength, especially if you increase flow for the ironing portion. The 2nd thing I use is "Fuzzy." With my old printer, which was trash, I used "fuzzy" in order to hide not-so-good layer lines. It worked well. I now have 2 new machines, Creality Ender 3 V3 Plus printers. When I print something where I need to have a really smooth look to it, for one, I print at a layer height of 0.08. I'll often use ironing for top surfaces that are seen and depending on the project, I may use Fuzzy as well. The print plate/bed is reversible. One side smooth, the other textured. I always use the textured side and when I use Fuzzy, I have it tweaked to where it looks almost identical to what the textured plate produces. This way, a consistent look on all parts. I don't know the slicer you use, but there's a newer feature on Creality Print (and I think it's in Orca too), called "Scarf". When set right, not only does it totally hide any seams, but with the right settings, can create a very smooth and if one likes, shiny sides to the prints. The end results with all the above are parts that almost look molded. Just a thought.

Clearance not tolerance

3D printed bandsaw when?