Range Rover L322 Ball Joint and Upper Control Arm Replacement

[@4813RT]

Great job! I am hearing clunking on my 2012 L322 and I know I have to do this repair. Great advice about raising the wheel to normal operating position. I feel much more comfortable doing the repair now. Thank you!

[@-simon.]

Excellent tutorial and in-depth explanation of the process, especially the how and why of preloading the bushings.

[@e.e9331]

What a well made informative video, Thank you!

[@HandyNammm]

Thanks for the video! Informative and straight to the point!

[@kylejones4321]

Awesome video great information on the bushings

[@sstoess1]

Great video. Well explained. Thank you for the effort!

[@Golfswingshirt]

Thanks man.. GREAT VIDEO.. gonna do mine now.

[@453421abcdefg12345]

Very many thanks for posting this video! You have "demystified" changing the lower arm, and I do like the way you emphasised the correct setting of the rubber bush, most repairers just tighten up with the lower arm dangling down so the bush is in max torque.( The title says replacing the upper control arm, but this s the lower arm) Chris B.

[@Ryan-vj9bl]

Upper rearward- but still what’s called the upper. The other in front is the lower

[@MultiMathias7]

Super helpful! Thank you

[@chaschaswell1448]

Great video. Thanks for making it

[@vincenteng8003]

You should be aware that factory control arm bushings, as well as many aftermarket control arm bushings, have spaces in the rubber bushing where one can see “daylight.” The “daylight” test is not an indication the bushing is worn. Instead you need to see if the rubber on the bushing is torn. You can see this by using a pry bar when the control arm is attached to the vehicle.

[@TheTesemahb]

The best! Thanks for sharing

[@CLK156BS]

Aren’t those both lower control arms? Curious

[@sobeautiful4690]

Thanks for the video. My yr 2011 HSE makes crunk crunk sound and shaking on the steering when the vehicle goes around 65-70 m/h on a highway when you leaves the gas pedal. What may be the problems it could? Thank you in advance.

[@desertcamel3573]

got 2011 RRS HSE have you made a video on rear CV joint shalf replacement?

[@sussexbikerpillion]

A simple job common fault. Thanks helpfull 👍

[@lukula2934]

That looks like the lower control arm, not the upper like the title says. Can't believe the difference between this suspension and my '06 LR3.

[@geraldmcgowan1526]

thanks alot sir for this video

[@dpf1119]

Thanks! Great video. Looks like moog makes a lower control arm with bushing. Any reason you didn’t use that? Thanks again.

[@4x2WagonFamily]

I’m replacing the lower arm and sway bar links this weekend. It was on back order at the time I placed the order. Best,

[@azzdvlogs4398]

Did you do a video of the sway links and lower control arm? Can’t find it on your channel?

[@ATX_Engineer]

Those control arm bolts are one time use. Once they are torqued to spec they are done. Should have gotten OEM replacement bolts. TMYK

[@desertcamel3573]

Great video,

[@oSTYNCLSYo]

I've been going at my ball joint for 2 days and no luck, it's in there .

[@4x2WagonFamily]

Use pb Blaster or wd-40 let it soak in for 30 minutes and shock it by hitting the ball joint housing few times and spray the ball joint again, repeat… good luck.

[@oSTYNCLSYo]

@@4x2WagonFamily finally got it lol. I gave up for a while. When you tightened the control arm bolt what was the torque spec?

[@derekkchung]

I think that "daylight" is normal.

[@dannybrennan31]

That's the lower control arm not the upper