Brake ferrules, v-brake pads, and cable lubrication

Quick video I made after watching the new ‪@cruisinginthe808‬ video. I look at some brake ferrules, brake pad conical washers and the order for mounting, and talk about cable lubrication. One side note that I didn't mention in the video, the shifter cable that runs to a derailleur (road bike, mountain bike, etc.) is thinner than brake cable. So if you have a SE Fast Ripper, for example, you wouldn't use brake cable housing for the shifter cable that runs to the derailleur. Enjoy..

[@cruisinginthe808]

We didn't get a chance to watch the entire video today before we filmed our next video in which we put on the brakes to the Skyway. I wish we did because I would have followed that tip on swapping the spacers! I need to do that the next time we work on the Skyway, once I get some cranks. The Bullseye brakes bow out a little. How do you adjust the brakes when one lever pulls more than the other? The right side pulls and the left hardly moves. We figured out that there is a screw that adjusts some tension and that seemed to help but I still have more play on the right than the left. Thanks for your video man! Appreciate you!

[@TuesdaysTurn]

Adjusting v-brakes can go very simple and be a pleasure, or it can take a long tedious time and be super annoying, so be patient and know you'll get it dialed if you keep messing with them. First, make sure you have TriFlo in the cable, and make sure the brake mount posts are clean, paint free, and the brake arms are not binding when you put the arm on. If the arm doesn't slide onto the post easily, then take it off and sand down the posts until the arms slide on easily. Make sure there is grease on the posts (on the outside, not on the inside where the bolt goes). Then bolt them down and bolt down the cable in the right spot. Then you need to squeeze the brake lever hard at least 30 times, I'm not joking (also make sure the cable is seated properly in all the right areas). Then readjust the cable tension if necessary. Now for the frustrating (sometimes) part. There are fine adjustment screws on both sides. They work the opposite of how you might think. When you screw them in, the brake arm does not move inward, it moves outward. This is because you are putting tension on the spring, which moves the brake arm outward. So you have to keep messing with those screws (little by little), until both arms are moving freely, and both pads are equal distance from the rim. Each time you adjust a screw, you need to pull hard on the brake lever again like 5 times. YOU GOT THIS!

[@TuesdaysTurn]

To clarify, you won't screw both in. Typically, you'll be screwing one side in (to move the arm outward), and loosening the opposite side to move that side inward, which will also affect the other side at the same time.