Break It Down - Casting Complicated Objects

[@okhowdy]

The visual draw overs and paper cut out demonstrations are SUPER helpful to help understand the process better!

[@stiffk666]

Genius way of explaining how to position the vents and sprue. I can take this simplified visual and apply it to my casts much more easily than a verbal description. Awesome as ever RT.

[@ironworksmodels]

These videos have really helped me set up my resin 3d print supports. Instead of looking for bubbles, I’m looking for islands. Little different implementation, but similar thought process. Thanks!

[@hyperorbit]

I love the paper diagram, really explains it well!

[@Armoredattacker]

Really love these diagnotic/post Mortem to see what could of been done better after the fact even if its years after! love seeing your work

[@LeGrandMort]

Love the presentation with the paper cutouts!

[@Senjamin]

this is explained fabulously, ive been confused about bubbles and where you put things for so long, this is put so simply thank you so much. This is why teaching is a skill of its own.

[@DingleDops]

I love the visuals! They’re very satisfying

[@TheDarkArtist66]

Content is golden Bob. As always. Everything I know about molding and casting it's either from you or experience. No need to look anywhere else. Thanks for all the awesome advice and information.

[@eekseye666]

Oh, I love this paper filling scheme )

[@SimonPower-hj1sr]

Thanks for taking the time and effort to show such valuable techniques!

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks!

[@BrockCheddar]

Robert, ive learned so much from watching your casting videos. something (from an outsider's perspective) as seemingly simple as casting a spherical mold in silicone was once difficult for me. thank you for making (and continuing to make) these videos. A++, wish i had your shop haha!

[@mark.nelson1]

That’s the best diagram explanation of the pour process (and bubble spots) I’ve seen. Thanks so much and luv the videos. Love from Australia. 🙏🇳🇿✊🇺🇸

[@SEBKing06]

Thank you so much for these videos Robert! really helps me with mold making😊

[@Aurelius_Khan]

Great vid Rob. You da man!🤗

[@GreenDayFanMT]

Great inside. Thank you

[@Bren0780K]

Fantastic explanation as always!

[@juliovallejos2716]

me fascina la manera que explica súper detallado y preciso, maestro muchas gracias por todo!!!!!

[@sibhs66]

Brilliant Robert!

[@bobhannah9944]

Great videos! Thanks for all the tips! Could you offer a suggestion for a reproduction motorcycle seat pan material, I made the mold using your tips and the parts are pretty good, but the material choices I have tried are to brittle to accept staples to hold the seat cover, I am looking for a material similar to 5 gallon plastic bucket - i prefer a material that is white/ opaque- or can be colored - not a must have though. Thanks for your time robert b

[@SwissplWatches]

awesome video!!

[@wiesejay]

Thanks!

[@RobertTolone]

Thanks!

[@Nillerus]

This is endlessly fascinating to me.

[@wollibar5263]

brilliant animation, thank you Robert

[@brianbosma1396]

Great channel. Thankyou for informative teaching.

[@GauthierKERVYN]

Great job; thank you for this clear explanation!

[@ekaterinaveil8059]

Thank you for your work I am learning so much from your videos

[@MarkATrombley]

Free the bubbles!

[@ricardoislasruiz3186]

Beautiful!

[@JK-pg2qn]

Mr Tolone, I'm so happy you're on YT, posting awesome content. I have a few questions. 1. It's very highly recommended to degas silicone prior to making a mold for obvious reasons, but wouldn't it be a good step afterwards to degas the silicone after pouring it into the mold? I mean, logically, wouldn't it eliminate all the bubbles trapped around the model? Just in case, silicone setting time and frothing/mess aren't an issue. 2. I'm considering setting up a tiny side project where I'd be making copies of some small elements, but those would be dyed. I'd rather avoid the hassle of dying resin every time, so the idea I had is to split one of the resin components into containers and pre-dye those. This way, if my reasoning is correct, I'd just end up with a perfect color match, every time I mix and cast. Do you think it would be viable? Thank you! JK

[@RobertTolone]

I never put a model under pressure or vacuum because I don’t know if it has voids inside of it. That would either explode or crash when the vacuum or pressure is applied. Also, I don’t do it because it’s not necessary. I dye urethane resin all the time - kzbin.info6H7Pf3QEr4o?feature=share

[@Svyatoslav-Nero]

It's SO helpful, man, thank you!!!

[@adrianacruz6177]

An incredible explanation 🌺🌺❤🌺🌺

[@Morax024]

im learning a lot . thank u.

[@shawnmichaelis1609]

any techniques on painting multiple figures with tiny detail and want to keep consistency? like if it had teeth and needed to paint them white, do they use templates they lay over the model in the industry? toys and figures have such fine detail that noway a human could paint, theres gotta be some secrets to making a professional figures. Take the Homies figures for example, each one has different colors and tiny detail that have to decals and templates, i want to replicate that at home on a small scale. Also what paints should i use? acrylics are ok, but take many layers to get a nice clean look. any models paints or somthing thats only takes one or 2 coats?

[@thurow37]

Been busting out some high tech illustrations recently. Loving them all -- whether computer generated or how you did it here!! Quick question: have you ever done a shrink mold? I'm gonna search your content here now, but figured I'd ask here. Looking to shrink some heads from a 1/12 scale toy line to put on / use on a 1/18 scale line. Mixed silicon with mineral spirits, poured, demolded and now waiting for the mineral spirits to evaporate to see how much shrink I get. Did a 50/50 this time. Figure to make a cast in the morning, then another either late tomorrow and/or Sunday morning to see if I get the right size.

[@Pygar2]

"Calico"?

[@thurow37]

@@Pygar2 ooof..."silicon "

[@thurow37]

UPDATE: not so good...a little deformed and awkward pieces coming out of the mold so far. Gonna give it another couple days to maybe dry out that mineral spirits, but so far no dice.

[@Pygar2]

@@thurow37 I'm having that kind of week, too...!

[@Pygar2]

And now?

[@danielleross1125]

This is an amazing video!

[@toufans]

thanks for this video

[@Dirk_Berserk]

the paper really helped

[@brigittewillers9929]

Hi Robert thank you so much for all the info super helpful. Quick question I have a beautiful African Buffalo scull I would like to replicate how would you have done it? Is quite complicated and large.

[@UPandUNDER16]

This content is priceless, thanks o.g

[@karlh6692]

Great video! Pretty sure 'sculpting a mickey' is some kind of euphemism..,. :)

[@daniel-pablo]

You should make a little character model of a personified "wicked bubble"

[@TheCraftyAutistic]

I'm really wondering how well this correlates with adding the supports for resin 3D printing?

[@annekabrimhall1059]

Could you cast a wood carving? Maybe just to show us why not to try😂

[@Jkauppa]

how about a blow through fill mold

[@Jkauppa]

ie not a drop fill air holes mold

[@Jkauppa]

kinda like forced fill injection molding, but pass through

[@balamurugan_art]

if we use pressure pot also we can get bubbles? in this case?

[@thiagosouza9445]

Goddamn! What a great explanation! Thanks for the knowledge sir. One more sub!

[@gsestream]

how about hard mold casting (like hand AB/molten injection mold cast), you seem to do soft mold casting most of the time

[@gsestream]

how about syringe injection casting into (hard) molds, ie forcing the stuff in, from the bottom, letting gases out from the top injection hole

[@richardkatzman2066]

Bob, you know the old saying, a guy jumps off the Empire State Building and at every floor they hear say, “so far so good” until he hits the ground floor. Not so good!!

[@taftancastingchannel]

عالی بود 👍🏼

[@h7opolo]

1:13 your graphic could've used some arrows and text here.

[@anthonymartelli6091]

3D printer...