Breaking The WORLD RECORD For Finger Strength? ft. Magnus Midtbo

[@AnnaHazelnutt]

Hannah!!! The production quality for this video is soooo good! Also Allison is a mega beast, these numbers are mind-boggling

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Thanks Anna! It was WILD to watch. :)

[@allison_vest]

Video quality on point! Aww shucks ☺️

[@unique_newyork]

I remember Allison from Vancouver back in the day. We climbed at the same bouldering gym and she would 4X4 my projects. She was super humble about it tho. Happy (and low key proud of her) for all her successes. Shout out The Hive Vancouver!!!!

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Yeeeeeeee. What a legend. It was so cool to get to see Allison crush the tests and lots of fun to climb with her. She’s ace. 🏆

[@Finn.noOffcial]

Would love to see some of the japanese climbers try this, I know some of them can one arm hang the 6mm.

[@joris04]

yeah nomura shonchiro did a one arm pull up un the 6mm

[@nicolasgoarnigou8046]

Must be interesting to see. But a 6mm and a 20mm are not the same. Could REALLY be interesting

[@gergelymartonffyclimbing]

Micky from EKB just did around 187% of bodyweight from a deadlift position, crazy numbers. Also I am not sure that the lattice test numbers are for peak force or 5-7 secod hang. Awesome video, and superb strength.

[@svenningen]

Did they not use a 25mm and not a 20?

[@DerButzemann94]

He pulled into it with dynamic force, the device they used just measured the peak force, I doubt he can hang this much weight for even a split second lol

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

We were psyched to see Eric’s video go live last week, super crazy numbers! I think they were using a 25mm edge, and wonder if standing vs pull down is a different test. Would be super cool to see what Micky can do in the same setup! Maybe a challenge I should put to EKB! ☺️

[@gergelymartonffyclimbing]

@@hannahmorrisbouldering Oh yes maybe they did use a 25 mm edge. that can be a huge difference. We would love to see that challange.

[@ramsessiereveld2824]

"want to see my lock-off on a bar? It's pretty funny" continues to do a really really really respectable lock-off...

[@EllaClarke-ht3vb]

Great to see a new video has been put up- I have missed them! 😊 Thank you Hannah and Nathan :)

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Yes! A couple of weeks off but back to regular weekly now :) Hope you enjoyed it!

[@andrewkim9503]

I genuinely wonder if the setup she's using for the 20mm is just limited by pulling strength. I genuinely wonder if she could pull more weight from a deadlift position instead. Regardless, Allison is a total beast!

[@MrNickcrush]

If her fingers aren't close to slipping and she just can't pull more then I would say deadlifting it would be a lot more powerful since she can use bigger muscles to reach her limit.

[@shawnington]

To be fair, its the most climbing specific way to test it... If you can't pull harder on your fingers, you don't really need more finger strength.

[@andrewkim9503]

@@shawnington That's not necessarily true. The force exerted on one's fingers when landing a dynamic movement might be greater than what can be generated in what's essentially a lat-pull down setup that they have here.

[@shawnington]

Usually the move is hit with slightly bent arms and the force is spread over time, so it not the simplistic way you are implying that downward force is exerted all at once as a component greater than lat pull down capability as you are asserting.@@andrewkim9503

[@zacharylaschober]

@@shawningtonis no more climbing specific, merely the appearance of being climbing specific. the difference is being (potentially) shoulder limited in this position versus being axially limited in a deadlift position, but the results should be similar depending on the stronger/weaker positioning.

[@plastikmaiden]

As a longfingered boy I want to know more about that torqued grip position!

[@Fred-oz3tw]

Seems unhealthy.

[@amberblackford9999]

Allison is such an all around awesome person, so cool to see her on your channel ❤ Can’t wait to see her content!!

[@McVollman]

still cheering for the day that my old favorite magnus partners up for a video with my new favorite Hannah :)

[@EllaClarke-ht3vb]

The editing and filming quality is amazing!! Keep up the good work 😁

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Thank you so much!!

[@artificiellexx]

Incredible production on this video, awesome to see on a video featuring the incredible Allison Vest!!

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Thanks so much! Really happy you liked it 😀

[@NikfangZ]

bruh I think that putting fingers sideways might be a game changer for my long fingers

[@AB-fh9zh]

Holy crap, that is just crazy. Also very interesting to learn more about the mechanics of finger strength. Great video.

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Thanks, glad you enjoyed the video. Allison hiked it 🥹

[@sneakysnake123]

Her finger strength is so insane, that it seems so odd her lock off is that weak. She might even be able to hold more force using a deadlift setup, if her pulling limits it. Great video quality as always, keep it up.

[@allison_vest]

I can hold ~10% more when I use a deadlift set up!

[@BungarangYT]

what a great sponsorship! The wheel is super fun and the merchandise is really cool. It sucks that a lot was sold out, but that’s good news for you guys!

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Thank you! We're psyched to be working with them :)

[@arnaudjouanin7561]

When's the Yves Gravelle vs Allison Vest video?

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

I've always wanted to go to Canada... :D

[@qotsa1234]

​@@hannahmorrisboulderingbouldering gyms are crazy good here in montreal :)

[@allison_vest]

Sign me up!!

[@ArchibaldVonSkip]

@@qotsa1234 I second this!

[@JeZeus1984]

I saw Yves on the verge of getting the 4mm edge single this week on IG

[@lupe75]

Excellent video, Hannah! You´ve been spoiling us with such a good content! And it´s nice to know that Alice is the person behind Float. I discovered it a few months ago and immediately subscribed to it.

[@dsmeier6270]

This was filmed so nicely Hannah. ❤

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Thank you!

[@augustclimbing]

25:47 “good for the ‘gram” 😂 That’s what it’s all about! Haha but seriously, great video! Allison is so strong and I look forward to seeing more from her on her new KZbin channel! 👍🏻👍🏻

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

So true! Float is a super cool channel. Looking forward to watching it grow :)

[@augustclimbing]

@@hannahmorrisbouldering same here! I appreciate you taking the time to respond 😊

[@shawnington]

Thats so fascinating, I have like 1/3 the finger strength, but can lock off for 15 seconds, and boulder v8. Ive always had weak fingers for what ever grade a climbed, but I have made up for it with a lot of shoulder strength from very "mobile" positions. Meaning Im not super strong in an absolute sense, but I can generate a disproportionate amount of force from positions people are usually quite weak in. It is true that everyone has a climbing super power! morphology is weird

[@tomcharoy9919]

one of the best videos on finger strength on YT

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Thank you! It was a lot of fun to film with Allison. ☺️

[@hubertnooisdonn6917]

it`s absolutely amazing.....BUT she has a special square finger position, so she gets in very deep......full second joint of the index finger is inside, which she talks about at 14:18. So, I am sure a lot of guys like Magnus or Ondra can do at least the same with a little training and technical advice. By the way my first finger joint of my index is 25mm, so I could never use my second finger joint on a 20mm bar. It's a completely different game if you get your second finger joints of your main fingers into it than just the first ones.

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

You’ve gotta be trolling

[@hubertnooisdonn6917]

it's not trolling....it's facts that she talks about herself at 14:18 ...watch your own video. By the way I changed my original comment a bit.

[@Bobbzorzen]

absolute insanity, great episode!

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Thanks so much 🤩

[@richardbradley1532]

Having followed Alison on Instagram for a few years, I'm not remotely surprised.

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Hangboard Queen 👸

[@andnowwecry9225]

She may be the most fit climber I have ever seen! That is really cool to see.

[@Romaing7]

Well…she is not, she has probably the best genetic we have ever seen in terms finger strength and particularly straight arm but that’s it. She can’t even maintain a one arm lock off for more than a few sec… strong but clearly not the most fit

[@noproblem4158]

14:10 great technique for 20mm hangs

[@colehibbard2851]

The lockoff is easier for a deadhang cause it’s easier to prevent swinging. When you’re sitting on a bench testing max force I wouldn’t expect it to be much different

[@chasleichner5895]

One of your major finger flexor muscles (the FDS) is attached to the bottom of the upper arm in addition to the top of the forearm, so it wouldn’t be surprising for people to have a stronger grip at some elbow angles compared to others since different elbow angles produce different FDS lengths.

[@iamaninja326]

I’ve been waiting for this!!

[@liviu445]

Hannah, I joined the raffle giveaway through your link and I won a magdust chalk, I tried putting that code through checkout with a magdust chalk in my cart and it doesn't work, what do I do?.

[@agusmkasmiri1092]

finally....wow...awesome content...great Hannah ,!

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Thanks very much ☺️

[@KnighTime..]

4:10 Summer in February?!! Utah is a crazy place

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Hehehe, we waited a little while to release this one :D

[@V2inyourjim]

Amazing production quality! Even more awesome video 🔥

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Thank you 🙌

[@Michael_Schmatzberger]

I really appreciate that someone (and noone better than Allison Vest) finally steps up and calls a World Record. Would love to know the record on 20mm both hands, and 10, 8 and 6mm one/two-arms as well... For example I did 150% BW on 8mm with two arms and wish I could see how far away the World Record is, without browsing instagram for hours and not coming to a good conclusion or contacting training facilities with their private record lists... Edit: Also interested in maximum duration hangs on 20, 10 and below. There is the zlag-board world ranking for 20mm but thats it

[@Dave1507]

Oooh, it was a trick question!! Cheeky! 😂

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Heheh maybe ALLLLL of them :D

[@chantsmantrasandrelaxation5079]

Have you ever looked at a pianist's fingers? I have often wondered about the strength of a pro pianist's fingers, when you consider the exercises and practise they've done through the years. I know that even though I'm no pro, I surprised my neurologist who expected worse finger damage after nerve damage in my arm, but I was able to do piano finger drills far in excess of his expectation - luckily for me - although I've noticed a decrease in capacity whilst playing, I am still above average in many finger things. I do not know if there is any correlation, wonder if someone does, which is why I'm asking.

[@liviu445]

Pianists do not have strong fingers because they don't need to, they have coordinated fingers, the motor units are refined neurologically, there is nothing to be said about strength, apart from playing string breaking loud.

[@thegzak]

What climbing grade does that translate to for her? I would imagine the relatively weaker biceps to be her current limiting factor, although could also be core but that wasn’t tested here so it’s just a conjecture.

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

I believe Allison has climbed 8B+ :)

[@garywheaton7112]

Adrian Kask pulled 265 on the tension block 20 mil. Is that the world record or are there bigger numbers I don’t know about?

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

This is the test for overhead pull on the digi rung! I just watched Adrian’s video though, impressive stuff!

[@ewiken5529]

As a former swimmer and swim coach, nothing wrong with being told you could have been a great athlete in another sport.

[@druncle1977]

watching this vid, I was thinking the exact same thing as her former couch. She have great genetics for competitive swimming. I do wonder what her wing span to height ratio is.

[@michaelb2938]

Great video, Alison is amazingly strong

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Very!

[@tyronelaces8690]

So by my calculation. She can carry a human up a wall (especially given some good holds and using her feet) Love to see this!! Woohoo!

[@lucaa4480]

On the 10 mm they are half crimping it, i think it is a huge difference in holding that hold in difference finger positions

[@soccutd77]

Funnily enough Eric Karlsson just put out a video with the Tindeq where they showed one person (Mickey) pulling 187% BW with one arm, so Lattice definitely can’t claim the world record there 😅 edit: that video was done with a 25 mm edge while this is done with 20, so not necessarily the same!

[@stevecool4381]

must've been heartbreaking to see that video appear while this video was most likely in the final stages of production

[@niko-ri6li]

That was on 25mm though

[@soccutd77]

@@niko-ri6li good point, forgot about that! Will put that in the original comment

[@alakabaz3]

Also they were standing and driving with their legs. Would be so interesting if the EK gang see this and repeat with this set-up to see if there’s a difference.

[@matthewsevers5862]

@@alakabaz3agree, using legs would make a huge difference. Would love to see EKB do pulling down only

[@HardcoreHunterCadima006]

What app is that? The one that somehow detects how much shes polling thats so cool

[@NathanBetts]

It is the app for the Tindeq Progressor, details in video description.

[@robertcreer8826]

Some crazy numbers there!

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Right!

[@GucciFeet]

Would love to see you and Tyler have a chat about strength training!!

[@stf6086]

There are loads of podcast episodes with Tyler about this stuff, e.g. on the nugget climbing podcast, training beta…

[@GucciFeet]

@@stf6086 ok then dont make a video about them chatting.

[@otpeezy5788]

Not the best info either

[@GucciFeet]

what is the best info?@@otpeezy5788

[@this_too_shaII_pass]

Hoooooly crap this is impressive!

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

So so impressive to witness!

[@ikarosdream5971]

Great video Hannah! You are super strong!

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Thank you so much!!

[@syhallaampula831]

So fun to see such beasts in my home gym. :D

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Such a cool gym - I really wish we could have stayed a bit longer to climb! :)

[@corygosney2469]

im not able to claim the magdust on the website even though i got the code

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Hey! I think looking at the t&c that the code can be redeemed with an order - hope that helps! :)

[@bikerbob182]

Absolutely insane!

[@lukasz-dg5rn]

She should compete in grip versus that 'new' guy on Erik Karlsson's channel. Mikey iirc? I remember on one Erik's video he hang on that edge with like 20 or 30kg like it was nothing and he's been climbing for very short time (4 years or sth?).That guy is one of the biggest genetic freaks when it comes to grip strength. It would be really fun to see those 2 compared.

[@mattmonsta4264]

Impressive,don’t get me wrong. The fact to take into consideration is that her fingers are shorter therefore she gets more of her finger on an edge than people with longer fingers. More surface area

[@chiz161190]

this is insane

[@Outlabyrinth]

She use the outside rounded edge with the pinkie finger It helps a lot Personally I can’t hang one hand on the middle beast maker if I don’t use the pinkie on the outside rounded edge If I use it I can hang confortable body weight + 5kg So all the pro that want to compare use the pinkie rounded edge on the board to be fare ! But still incredible how strong she is !!!!!!!!

[@silenttwine2368]

This video is so humbling 25kg one arm is crazy, I only can do 3

[@Scott-ir5eg]

There’s chalk in my eyes!

[@JustinCasey216]

Where are magnus ondra and bosi? This title and thumbnail are misleading but holy crap the strength in this womans fingers!!!

[@osrictentaqclesmin]

I have witnessed a friend hang a 6mm for over five seconds. There are many string people out there without KZbin channels. Seriously cool vid though

[@Stickmayne]

Alright. That is friggn insane

[@stevenvandijck2814]

When did they standard drop from hanging 8 or 5 seconds all the way to almost 3?

[@simonwilliams9850]

Interesting video, but why can't we say featuring Allison Vest, who is the professional climber who is subject of the video, rather than needing to reinforce the dependence of climbing media on Magnus specifically and more generally on men's perception of strength? Magnus seems more surprised that Allison is stronger than himself and his buddies rather than simply affirming that she is strong in her own right

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

I hear your perspective here, and take the feedback on board. I would like to counter a couple of things so my intention is clear. Besides documenting Alison’s incredibly impressive strength in its own right, one of the primary motivations on the video, and indeed my channel, is to represent and platform women. The use of Magnus’ name in the title is for reach on the platform, but I do understand why it seems like an oversight on my part to place the focus on Magnus. As you said, Magnus has a HUGE influence on climbing media and in KZbin keywording, and I want this video of Allison crushing records (male or female) to be seen by as many people as it can be, giving it the chance to hopefully recalibrate a few perceptions. I hope that the video overall is put together in such a way that it affirms Alison’s talent in a way that stays true to the values of the channel - the featuring of Adam, Will and Magnus is included because the video we filmed was a response to a video of Magnus’. We reached out to Magnus for comment, and without speaking for him, I think he is amazed at the numbers, because they’re mind boggling for men or women, and his frame of reference is two of the strongest male climbers in the world.

[@Michael_Schmatzberger]

@@hannahmorrisbouldering Would a change of the title to "Pro Climber Allison Vest Vs Finger Strength WORLD RECORD ft. Magnus Midtbo" reduce the reach of the video? I don't know anything about how this works and think it is comendable what you are trying to accomplish with the way you set it up. And it is a good video title and you can do with it what you like. I missed her name as well tho...

[@boogaloo4640]

@@Michael_Schmatzberger Looks like the Magnus algorithm may be broken though. The new videos with Ondra aren't getting the views you would normally expect to see.

[@94jmh]

loved this

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

I’m glad!

[@CrimpingPebbles]

Just wow 😯

[@zacharylaschober]

To the folks trying to give reasons dismissively about Allison and her numbers, she is phenomenally dedicated and capable to exploit her advantages because every elite athlete is. This is impressive and worthwhile, take the disrespect to valueless channels of climbing "banger" boulders with the bros.

[@WillTheFrozen]

Where is my national hero Yves Gravelle

[@jonathanrossddsmhs1271]

Insane finger strength but I don’t think Tyler Nelson calls it “climbing specific”, but I may be wrong.

[@zacharylaschober]

definitely he does not, but Allison has some tremendous force production through her tips and climbs enough to more than make use of.

[@cwehden]

my comments keep getting deleted, cool video

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Glad you liked it ☺️

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Unsure why your comments get deleted too - it's not me deleting them :)

[@cwehden]

@@hannahmorrisbouldering don't worry, thanks for reply great channel keep up the amazing videos

[@damu6678]

She's doing more than 211 lbs. The rope stretches and flexes, so she has to pull more than 211 for the device to register that weight

[@chazott]

that's not how static forces work

[@sportenapfeltorten2095]

From now on I am going to say I cant one arm lock of because I habe a +3 ape Totally not because I am not strong enough. :D

[@andreykarayvansky9549]

I have zero superpowers in climbing!

[@hughloeffler4907]

Great video and truly inspiring but I think Yve Gravaille beats this ratio.

[@filippecha7909]

Never saw her in the world cup finals...imagine the lvl...also the finger strenght isnt everything

[@HourRomanticist]

I'm sure the angry Norwegians will forgive you for mispronouncing Rugne, but it's Rung-neh.

[@deminmax]

Allison is very cute!

[@234i9]

Seems like a dangerous record to go for..I mean finger tendons at stake..for a climber? For just what...a record?

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

I don’t think Allison would have gone for it if she thought she was at a high risk of injuring herself. ☺️

[@kevedwards]

Would recommend against using that wheel, I won a code for free chalk that wouldn’t work on the website but since I entered my email it’s been inundated with Spam.

[@asdfxyz_randomname2133]

I don't know how that can be compared. In absolute strength, bigger is always better. But in relative strength, smaller is always better, because with k times the height, the tendons strengthpotential increases by k^2 while the body weight increases by k^3. Also if you measured relative strength, you'd have to have a smaller edge too, but even then smaller people would have an advantage. But anyway, it's still amazing.

[@ABDILLASOUR]

Epic

[@XxGamer]

Females have Strong Fingers.

[@Animatedron]

🤣 Oh I did it.

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

No biggie

[@danabartlett9772]

John Brookfield.

[@chazott]

No doubt Allison should be world record holder for many finger strength feats. However, the "official" lattice record was done on a board that is plumb, not a block hanging from a cord which could be at any angle. That's a big variable and I don't think her attempt here should be considered official. If she wants an official lattice record, why not go to their gym like all the other "official" entries? I know from experience the angle of the edge makes a huge difference how much weight I can pull, so it needs to be controlled in order to compare results with other climbers.

[@ripapa6355]

Blows my mind the finger strength, but can't lock off for 5 seconds. Beastor-ish?😅

[@wsemenske]

Fun fact, smaller fingers makes smaller ledges feel bigger

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

That might be so, but pulling world record numbers is pretty impressive every way you look at it hey!

[@alex29lala]

I still think Yves Gravelle can beat this

[@Yoim]

First

[@zsines6640]

you are crazy strong, but no need for clickbait

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

It’s not clickbait.

[@fourleafproductions9788]

​@@hannahmorrisbouldering I think it's them misunderstanding the term "ft." Dw I know what you meant you obviously have to ask permission from magnus to feature his content

[@seraf174]

🤦‍♂

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

You'll have to explain that one!

[@kaioh.simone295]

Tension 20mm and lattice 20mm are definitely not the same. (Way harder lattice)

[@jonnes__4657]

I don't like crimps... .

[@Fred-oz3tw]

So will bosi is stronger she did not hold it for 5 seconds

[@jmb9701]

She can beat anyonr because a. Shes very strong. b. She trains fringer strength more. Not many of the best climbers she referencing are directly training their max. If they trained max they would crush her.

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

I think Will mentioned in Magnus’ video that he does max hangs every other session. Either way, I think it’s safe to say all the climbers mentioned do train their fingers & many not referenced train at their max and still don’t pull what Allison can. I definitely don’t think the conjecture that Allison would be crushed in the hypothetical reality where all the climbers mentioned trained with the sole focus of beating those numbers reasons.

[@Michael_Schmatzberger]

This is not about the training.

[@gb2755]

@@hannahmorrisbouldering on the latest lattice video he says he’s “moved away from finger boarding for two years now”. And that he’d stop at 10-20% body weight on arm hangs to switch up the edge. Also, Allison is listed to have climbed V14. Hope there’s more research in these responses for more factual information.

[@hannahmorrisbouldering]

Lattice's records on the 20mm Digi ring pull were reported by them, and Allison pulled higher than the numbers in that test. I don't follow Will's training too closely, but that's the video concept and the information is factual. The video isn't intended to stoke a fire, it's just really impressive, and a record so far as we know, and Lattice knows. My response is that Allison has climbed 8B+. 8B+ is V14. @@gb2755

[@gb2755]

@@hannahmorrisbouldering​​⁠he clearly said he “used to” in the exact video you referenced but you wrote “he mentioned HE DOES max hangs every other session”, when he has “moved away” from it for two years now. We need to be able to showcase strength of women, specifically Allison’s without clear misinformation. For me it doesn’t matter that others don’t train it specifically as she does, like so what? She’s still stronger. But the fact is stronger without lies. Great channel and video however. Just sick of fake news and misquotes that these type of responses contribute to.

[@tshorty90210]

😂 155% is + 55lbs for me weight around 100lbs. Some times less and sometimes a lb or 2 more. Pretty sure with a couple months of training I can do more 🤔

[@blazelearhernanders4662]

She is obviously super strong but technically you wouldnt call it "strongest finger stregth" but rather realative strengh-

[@eeinarsson]

So stoked to see @c4hp - the best in the game!