Great stuff guys, very intresting and fresh perspective!

Alex explaining to Hannah how to smear into a corner. Precious :0)

It wasn’t till the end of the video that I realized the length of this video. I didn’t notice at all that this video was AN HOUR LONG! Time flew so fast watching

wow

Your story telling skill is so inspiring. Every video I get so hooked!!! I didn’t even know Alex climbed the nose, that’s insane

nice video

anybody got any tips for my arms being on fire to the point i dont even wanna move them, i think its my tendons being on fire last few bouldering sessions i could barely do a handful of boulders cuz of the pain 33 yo, 95 kg, can do about 15 pullups, trying to do bouldering 3 times a week even tho id prefer more often. been climbing for like 6 months. still feel the occasional jolts of pain in me arm and ive got another bouldering appointment tomorrow D:

Believe in Jesus Christ, trust in Him for your eternal salvation and repent of your sins!

The tone of this video threw me off. It was weird, smug, condescending... I disagree with the opinion that indoor climbing, specifically comp style climbing, is similar to outdoor climbing. I respect people's opinions and love to hear discussions about topics like this usually. However, this video and the attitude made me feel like I was being talked down to and generally unwelcome.

Hannah this video is amazing! The edit is sick, I felt like I got so much information out of it all, and I was there all day 😂

Everywhere I Go I See His Face - Magnus ;)

I do really like ur videos and editing style Something in them relaxing Love uuuuu hannah❤❤❤❤

I mean comp boulders on average have more dynamic and coordination type moves and generally sit differently on the RIC scale compared to the average outdoor boulder. That's why one isn't representative of the other. Saying 'you can't find those moves on real rock' is obviously wrong; it's just more rare whereas in competitions it is common. When talking purely about movement I think the elite dynamic and coordination skillset is what differentiates a comp climber to an outdoor climber, the reason in difference being exposure.

Nice video…love alex’s psyche! Although disagree about the comment “crack climbing is not commercial” Crack climbing would be commercial if setters knew how to set cracks, at easy safe levels for hands & fist.

Awesome!

I really don't like the beginning of this video. It starts of with a picture of Jakob Schubert and text as Alex Waterhouse says "Jakob sort of said this for a long time, indoor comps aren't representative of real climbing." If he has actually been saying "sort of" that there must be some quotes of him saying things instead of having another guy putting words in his mouth. I feel like the editing also makes it seem like that is an actual quote by Schubert. Then there's other things I don't particularly care for like the weird trash talking at 2:34, but maybe that was mean to be lighthearted.

It is wonderfull that todays mainstream climbing is focused on indoirs 😊

While the video is entertaining to watch, I feel like it's completely missing the point, mainly because the problems shown in the video don't look anything like "comp style" problems that some people (me included) complain about. The interesting part would have been to address one thing a setter says "anything is possible on rock, if you think there are no coordination moves or dynos on rock you haven't climbed hard enough". I think this is another way of missing the point as well. First of, it may exist, it's just rare, but it just doesn't address the most important part about culture. Iconic outdoor boulders at least until now don't include those. And for a long time they barely included dynamic moves even. When bouldering became a thing in Fontainebleau, climbers actually just wanted to train in the summer for mountaineering, they had climbing shoes that looked like snow boots and no pads, as technology and climbers evolved in their goals as well, people specialized in bouldering, and brought pads, and started to do dynamic moves... Are comp style problems useful to train, sure, do they teach interesting useful stuff, sure, but they simply don't match some people's vision of nice stuff they want to climb... If you used the exact same argument for painful holds, everybody would complain, yet it's very common outdoors, even on very famous climbs... But who wants to go to the gym and get deep cuts, right ? It's training, it's a fun activity, it's sport, it shouldn't be a chore. Also there isn't nearly as much satisfaction getting to the top of a wooden panel covered in plastic stuff someone put there, compared to getting to the very top of a piece of rock nature came up without any consideration of whether or not a human could overcome it. That's why pure lines are regarded as having more "value" than a random game with forbidden holds or starting in an absurd position for example. If Burden of Dreams had a ladder of holds just to its right, the line would be a lot less amazing. Comp climbing appeared in comps because climbers got so strong that they could all top problems that were simply hard, and setters needed to introduce unpredictability, involve different muscle groups and so on. If comp climbing is just climbing, why are so many very strong people not competing in bouldering anymore ? Another reason was that setters want to make a show for people to watch. Sure, a slab with tiny poor holds doesn't seem that impressive when watching IFSC events, and a big dyno will impress even someone who doesn't know shit about climbing. It's the same on social networks, some climbing videos of really average dynos will get millions of views from people that don't climb, and insane V15+ footage will only get a tiny fraction of that... But these climbs do not reflect what some of us maybe older climbers view as stuff that we want to climb. I stopped watching the IFSC around 2016... Before that, the guys looked strong and I wanted to climb just like them. Nowadays, they're on problems similar to the ones that make me sight in my own gym... I'm not interested in watching or climbing that, it doesn't translate to what I think is nice climbing, which is control, strength, precision. It's a matter of taste, and that's fine, setters disregarding that because it might happen on a few actual boulders on the planet is what creates the frustration, I wish a video tried to address that, including someone that believes that and able to articulate a thought properly... That'd be an interesting watch, if you have some oldschool climber around for a follow up video it'd be great !

That yellow "V3" is a North American Reddit video post "V7" Come at me Americans & Canadians

Really cool! I would love to have a go at all those boulders but especially the crack one! I am a bit of a crackhead unfortunately... Just love the suffering 😅 E: A word.

So what you're saying is, indoor climbing can be relevant to outdoor, if you specifically set up your indoor training to mimic the outdoor challenges... ...kinda like people have been doing for decades. None of that counters the points Jakob and Ondra have been making recently, which is that the direction of *competition* bouldering - especially at the professional level - has been away from the skills more generally needed for outdoor challenges, and towards what looks good on TV to give climbing a wider global appeal. That fact that elite, super strong, super flexible, focused athletes who do a load of cross discipline training are good at both, in no way refutes that point.

not only do I strongly disagree with Alex...I can tell you he is 100 procent wrong (strictly about the topic that comp climbing are te same as outdoor) it is completely different..especially comp boulders...those run in coordination boulders,4 starting points, paddles like you see in al the big comps lately...not a single boulder like this exist in the whole area of Fontainebleau..it's completely different..I understand if you climb indoor you will learn the skill the climb outdoors..for sure..but if you climb only outdoor you are not gonna learn the skill of the coordination ninja warrior parkour stuff...not a single boulder in fontainebleau is like a World Cup boulder...it is true that most of the boulders you find outdoor you cab find indoor to...but not the comp coordination parkour problems, and it's those boulders Jakob is talking about...off course comp climbers can climb good outdoors, but that doesn't mean that comp boulders are like outdoors...not a single typical coordination comp boulder is shown in this video as you see them all the time in all big comps now days...but off course,as always..high quality video and edit here...enjoyable to watch...but indoor (especially comp boulders) are not the same as outdoor boulders...and te gap between plastic and rock is become bigger over the years..two different disciplines..but that's fine..all good and fun...

Alex is a great climber and this was a great video, but I (like Jakob and pretty much every other pro climber) disagree entirely with his thesis that comp climbing and outdoor climbing are actually very similar lol especially climbs like the nose that are primarily crack climbing

12:09 caught me off guard with a beautiful edit out of nowhere lol

Going to clip n climb tmrw for a birthday and I’ve never climbed before so this rlly helps

Bunch of yuppy pansies accessing it only because it’s indoors, and if/when they do venture outside they try to police people who have decades more experience because they got a “belay license” and took some kind of class. Ruining the wild, free nature of the sport with their nonsense

Random rant before watching the video: I hate it when I make it to videos *after* thumbnail/title changes because just seeing my favorite subscriptions posting gets me so hyped up but I can’t watch immediately because of work, chores or something else, so I get on with my day with my only goal being getting everything done as soon as possible so I can sit down and enjoy the video without distractions. Then I finally get to the video a couple hours later and it’s been changed so I feel like it registers (for the poster or the platform, idk) as me only engaging because of the change. All this to say, I’d watch even with a solid color block for a thumbnail and a dash for a title, because I know for a fact it’s gonna be quality content, and I know I’m not alone. But hey, if it works, it works. Get that engagement! Now, let’s get to actually watching ❤️

I wish magnus was here

What was your training routine?

I thoroughly enjoyed this video, thanks all involved! I've been meaning to pick up some rungne gear, so I'll use the code in the new year 😊

too many short cuts, both visually and accoustically. It makes me nervos. And music too

I loved this video! Super interesting topic. Thank you :) I suppose it makes sense that the boulders have completely random color volumes, since Alex Waterhouse it's in the video...

Cool.😊 I watched your video dubbed for the first time. Funny and at times really helpful. But I'm so used to your voices that I'll watch it again in the original later.

V7 climber dropping a v2 hmmm okiii

Such a cool and interesting video, it should be a series!

You guys are going above and beyond on the filming/editing - really good pacing and great narrative, dipping between KZbin style vlog content and doco. Especially loving all the drill/trolley/ladder mounted shots to mix things up! Super cool, super inspiring.

your edits are absolutely awesome!

Of course training for comp will translate well. The Nose is about endurance, strength and nerve. Comp climbers usually end up with great endurance due to the amount of training they do, on top of the strength you naturally develop bouldering. Casual boulderers are the ones that struggle with it. I'm a trad climber primarily, and most boulderers I climb with can't handle staying on a full climbing pitch, much less 31 pitches of climbing. Throw in a trad rack on top of it and they are usually miserable. I train at the gym all the time specifically to work techniques I'm going to use outside. Is it exactly the same, no. It's usually a different feel, but I have found that if I can do a hard sequence in the gym on slippery plastic, then when I'm outside I can do the same move easier on sticky granite. I would say nerve is the big one. If the climber can handle the heights and the whips at height, then they can do just about anything. The vast majority of boulderers I have climbed with have been terrified going more than 20' off the ground no matter how much they have tried. If they can get their head on straight, why not go for it?

I completely agree with the take that modern indoor bouldering has amazing carryover to rock climbing, but.... Alex Waterhouse did have quite a tick-list at Rumney while he was a student at Dartmouth. Great video as always!

For me, rope climbing is no-go. Too much faffing around with gear. And big walls? For me, it would be hard to climb with my pants full of sh...I test my limits with hard scrambles in the Scottish Highlands and that's challenging enough, with some of the exposed routes :)

well he's unlikeable

Another masterpiece for us. We are so lucky to have access to such content. I really love the evolution of the quality of your videos.

I think my argument is if indoor climbing is so unrealistic, why are all the top world class comp climbers climbing 9a and higher outdoors?

I'm certain they both have a huge amount of experience with outdoor boulder and sport climbing, so seems a little odd to suggest they basically have no technical rock climbing experience prior to tackling the Nose.

Very entertaining video but I feel like Jakob's point about comp boulders not being representative of outdoor climbing refers specifically to coordination style moves. Everything else in the intro to this video also suggests that "parkour style moves" is what people are talking about when they make that point. If Jakob or Adam wants to do well in todays bouldering competitions then they have to spend a lot of time training coordination moves, but if their goals are to climb outdoor boulders or routes at their limit then they would obviously not spend time training coordination dynos. The problems shown in the video do not have any coordination dynos, so I don't see how this disproves Jakobs point at all. If the point was that "plastic climbing can never train you for real rock climbing" then you have successfully disproved it with this video, but no climber thinks that, and it's almost rude to suggest that Jakob Schubert would say something that dumb. EDIT: I am not against modern style comp bouldering, I think it looks cool and that might make the sport more popular. But a downside is that it is not representative of outdoor climbing, like Jakob points out.

so good! i said it before but the editting and animation are suberb. filming on point too. great job you guys get the official "this is a documentary" from me

I love the style of this and your last video, I'm not sure quite how to explain what is different.. but it's great :) Also big love for the Climbing Hangar, they create such a great environment

Love this video 👍

Theres something about Hannahs videos that they are not overstimulating/advertising to the algorithm, yet extremely calming and easy going. Nothing click-bait, just good vibes and good climbs. Thanks as always, Hannah!

The nose is the route that the daring speed climb….sub two hours by Honnold and Caldwell.