Briggs Engine Rebuild - Another Chance at Life

This Briggs engine blew up after it ran out of oil. The engine had less then 50 hours of runtime from new. There is a little damage in the cylinder. I don't think it will cause an issue, but I guess we will find out.
Part 1: • Briggs Threw a Rod - N...
Part 2: • Briggs Threw a Rod - N...
Part 3: • Briggs Engine Rebuild ... (this video)
Engine Model: 210312-0159-E1 CODE: 090219YD
Connecting Rod: 694691
Crankcase Gasket: 694953
Head Gasket: 697690
Wrist Pin: 696581
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Micrometer 2-3": amzn.to/3Belam4
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#GeneratorRepair #SmallEngineRepair #SmallEngine #DIY #Fixed #Troubleshooting #HowTo #BriggsAndStratton #EngineRebuild #BlownEngine
10HP, 210000, 9HP, Alternator, Blown Engine, Bore Gauge, Briggs and Stratton, Briggs, Caliper, Conrod, Cutting Valves, End Gap, Engine Rebuild, Fixed, Generator, Hertz, Horizontal Shaft, How To,
How-To, Load Test, Micrometer, Muriatic Acid, No Oil, OHV, Out of Round, Plastigauge, Polish Journal, Rebuild, Repair, Small Engine, Spring Compressor, Threw a Rod, Timing Mark, Troubleshooting, Valve Lapping, Volts

[@martinflanagan2506]

Great trick of using fine sandpaper and rope to polish the rod journal.

[@generessler6282]

Your conscientiousness is amazing. This episode reminded me of a great time with my father, rest is soul. He was a machinist, mechanic, and about four other trades at a high level. Your approach to things reminds me very much of his, except he was able to do things with the simplest tools imaginable. A point of pride for a depression era kid. We worked on an old lawnmower that someone had thrown away. This was over 50 years ago. Briggs and Stratton. Had been run hard. Many things to be fixed as you did here. CS journal was egg-shaped ~7 thou (he guessed; his only micrometer was at work; but even 12 year old me could see the wiggle). He did not want to spend money on it, so hand-worked the rod with a file until it "felt right." Put it back together. That thing cut an acre of grass every week of every spring and summer for four years before I ran it into a big rock and bent the crankshaft. Man was I in trouble 🙂.

[@MegaDirtyberty]

My grandfather was like that, my father tells me stories about what my grandfather would fix.

[@williambennon7532]

I learn so much from your videos. Thank you for all the effort you put into producing them.

[@johncourtneidge]

Yes!

[@garygullikson6349]

You have a special talent for making "how to" videos. Great camera work, great description without being annoying or skipping over details or being in a hurry. Appreciate showing of detailed techniques.

[@onthemudd1]

It's the best rebuild ever. The cord and sandpaper for crankshaft priceless. ❤

[@Larry-kh7rw]

A Thursday morning treat!! Thanks much.

[@TheSoundmanPete]

I've been working on small engines all my life. Your knowledge and videos are exceptional. As mentioned they are addictive and are fascinating to watch. Keep up the great work.

[@ericponta9771]

Ever seen the bolt that holds counterweights to rod and crank broken in 12.5 hp. Slight damage to case and counterweights.

[@bertgrau3934]

Doing the valve job, reminds me of working on a Briggs 875, the valve guide had moved. I did a thorough job cleaning. Took it to a machine shop to have the guide fixed, and a valve job. I had a gentleman tell me that IF a machine shop does a valve job, it would ruin the head. I laughed at that. The engine never ran as good. Sometimes people have unusual ideas, that may or may not be correct. The machinest said there was no way lapping the valves on that head would have worked. (Most do) just not that piticular head. You do great work, easy to understand what and why. I always enjoy your videos. I have a 3500 Predator generator/ inverter. I checked the ohms on the outlets so I would have an idea of where it should be in case I ever need to check it. It was 0.019. I learned from you that's where it should be. I changed the oil at 10 hours and I try to use it once a month. It's just a year old. I'm pretty happy with it .

[@jcondon1]

Just note the inverter generator outlets connect to the inverter module and not the stator directly. Still good to have that measurement because it’s usually the inverter that eventually fails.

[@bertgrau3934]

@@jcondon1 Thank you sir.

[@mrobi5797]

I ecourage you to continu your videos James. They are very educative which permitted me to do my own repair on small engines. Thanks for your knowledge.

[@christophermarshall5765]

Good fix. Runs great. Test will be under load. I don't think the piston will suffer.

[@georgehelaine]

I work as diving tech and you have taught me so much! It will be great to give you back in return. Your voice is very soothing and calming and you work with meticulous care wonderful to watch!

[@davidplaster4576]

Good job James!! I am glad that you gave that engine another chance at life. About 90 percent of engines that blew a rod that I rebuilt for people had some sort of minor damage to the cylinder skirting, and the engines held up like nothing happened to it. I have never had a comeback or failure due to minor chunks taken out. I have had cracks in the skirting, and using a air Dremel, ground the crack out of skirt to remove the small crack. As far as pistons go, I have used pistons with scratches in the skirting far in excess of what I saw in the video. I used the wire wheel on the bench grinder to smooth them out, and have never had a comeback. Believe me, these small engines have a lot of tolerance for abuse. While I understand the guilt feeling to use possible substandard parts/components, what should be taken away is it's not the space shuttle, it's not flying to the moon. You would be amazed at what these engines can endure. So long as the piston rings are good, little piston slop in the cylinder, the valves are sealing, the carb is cleaned up, you got good spark, the valve gap is in spec and no slop, the engine is getting its lubrication, you will then have a good running engine. Unlike a multi-cylinder engine where every detail counts, single cylinder engines are tolerable to things not quite being 100%; you will know if something is off due to lack of power or failing to run good or at all. Some times you have to YOLO (You Only Live Once) it, I have saved many people a lot of money rebuilding their engines; where some shops would not touch it.

[@jcondon1]

Good to know. Because I just brought home two more storm responders both run out of oil and both needing an engine. So it looks like I will be putting it back in service.

[@davidplaster4576]

@@jcondon1 Wow, that is crazy!! I have never heard of a line of generators that have had this kind of failure. One note is that it is correct with the piston rings being 180 degrees apart during assembly on some engines, but also take into consideration that the rings will move as the engine runs and takes on hours. It's possible that is why Briggs did not include that spec in the manual, they probably figured it is pointless to do that, as they know the rings will move. Unless the piston has tiny pins to retain the rings in position, they will move. They move during the end travel when the rings are "unloaded" from the travel of the piston, they can slightly turn during opposite travel (my guess is due to the scratches of the hone) This is a good thing, as the wear will never be in the same exact spot over and over again. It becomes a problem if the rings are stuck on the piston, and can not move (due to overheating, and thick oil burn in the ring grooves) I would guess that with the engine being new, it was burning excess oil as the rings seat into the cylinder (or bad hone job from factory, I've seen that) Generators have it hard when new, as they typically run hours at a time, and nobody wants to shut it down to check oil level. I recommend people when buying a new one, to run them for a 24hr break in procedure, where the genset is not needed, so you can check the oil at 4-6hr periods. The other way is to check the oil when new at 4hr periods, until it has racked up 24hrs. It would be interesting to see if it is even remotely possible to add some kind of oil level sensor to these engines. I would take what you just did and repeat that process for the next ones. You did good as far as lightly honing the cylinder (use WD40 as oil when honing), checked clearances with the crankshaft, and other considerations when putting it back together.

[@butler386]

One of the best video's of rebuilding a small engine. Fantastic job and camera work. Thanks for the videos.

[@YukonHawk1]

Totally agree on the camera work. Outstanding!

[@YukonHawk1]

Another award winning video from Dr. Generator. That engine is just as good as new!! Loved all the tips and tricks as you went along getting this bad boy back in shape. Awesome that is started on the first pull. Thank you for your weekly college lessons!!

[@ron827]

Excellent work as usual. Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid and needs plenty of ventilation when reacting with aluminum. Secure it well if your kids are allowed to mess around in your shop as it is some VERY nasty stuff. Your lapping method of the journal is pure genius. Removing the sharp points of the broken section of the cylinder wall was good thinking as they could be stress risers and cause cracks to form. The top two rings are compression rings and "should not" have much of an affect on oil consumption. The bottom ring is the oil ring and scrapes oil off the cylinder wall to prevent it from being burned.

[@appasahebpatil9139]

I enjoyed watching this video. The best technical video on any mechanical thing I have ever seen. Very informative with many good practices/methods and practical tricks of the trade. You also knew, mentioned and adhered to all technical specs on the engine components, installation/assembly. This video is head and shoulder above all other videos I have seen. It also reminded me of my brother who taught me about the valve grinding and cleaning and rebuilding a Bosch fuel pump on a diesel engine. Your commentary is very clear. I would give this video a five star rating. THANKS !

[@arthurbiringer5676]

Great video! And now I even know the E5 size for the carb studs! 70 inch pounds torque!

[@prorityfeed3210]

This is great. Thanks for doing this. I'd like to see the unit put into use. Get it under a load for say 1/4 of it's expected lifetime, then pull it apart and inspect it to see how it does. We can all learn from this as to what can and can't be done.

[@2OO_OK]

Great video! Potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide dissolve aluminum with no effect on iron.

[@r8118830]

Preparation is everything.

[@ramontorres3526]

Hi, my name is ramon I learned a lot from all your videos. You do good work excellent

[@martynbuzzing3327]

It's always a good watch. You detail every move very clearly. As a seasoned mechanic myself, I'm still learning. Thanks

[@philliphall5198]

I was waiting for this video It’s a keeper for sure and will run great 👍

[@swallowinn4410]

Hello James I am glad to see that you took the time to repair the engine. I have repaired many with similar damage and they all worked well. 2 of about 10 🎉did e entirely fail again but only after many hours of heavy work.(I expect they were run low on oil again.) Most were snowblower use engines.Your investment in quality measuring equipment & tools is impressive, Micrometers and Bore guages are not inexpensive. Great video keep them coming.

[@aerotro]

Good job James, yeah I think it makes a good bench test engine to test with until your happy it's not going to self destruct.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Nice it started up first pull no issues

[@grahamlack3302]

Great video James as always, amazing view of honing from inside the crank case, never seen that before it has to be a first.

[@robertmorin6495]

Nice going James. I enjoyed watching it and your explanation of the ring clocking and the plastic cover function.

[@DanKoning777]

The plastic piece at 59:15 should be addressed by Briggs engineering. There should be a means to adjust the amount of hot air it's able to contain via a sliding or adjustable opening-one position for hot weather and one for cold to allow the heat to either escape or stay circulating. Just a thought. Great content as always. God bless.

[@PabloDiablo682]

People should really clean the heads thoroughly after lapping the valves. That lapping compound can really eat up the inside of your motor over time if any of it remains. Even a little bit. And or change the oil after warming it up once really well.

[@mjg263]

Great resurrection video, really enjoyed that! I don’t think that little missing piece is going to matter one bit; it’s not in a critical mechanical area, doesn’t have any structural function and doesn’t have any influence on the piston travel. Runs beautifully!

[@clementagyin8362]

James, you have very steady hands, no tremors at all as do the fine jobs.

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Definitely only time will tell if the piston will become damaged from the damaged skirt sleeve good video @James Condon

[@edmckinley1333]

Excellent and detailed video, thanks for taking the time to show us your rebuild, very educational and precise

[@skynjaydensdaddy]

As thorough of a job as you did, it'll last. I bought a 2018 YZ250X June 11th 2018 and the bottom end went out November 11th 2018. I did a complete rebuild February 2019 and it is still going to this day, I've done a couple piston kits since the overhaul as preventative maintenance, but nothing more.

[@annierenard5954]

very educational, thank you

[@tonygriffiths2485]

That was terrific. The engine should last for years after that excellent work, thanks, very interesting. I have done that kind of work myself, but its always nice to see it done properly and skillfully :)

[@wildefox1478]

Great video, that engine runs and sounds great after rebuilding it despite that damage to the bottom of the cylinder, nice work James! Muriatic acid also works great to remove rust from metal gas tanks, I used it to remove the rust from inside the tank on my 1980 Honda XL500 dirt bike then sealed it with tank sealer.

[@Kuster_jose]

Amazing Work, Congratulations, here in Brazil we have almost no technical content about brigs engines....

[@waynec3121]

Was wondering if this engine was going to make a comeback. Great video James

[@williambrandenburg1196]

Thank you for your very informative content! Love the way you showed every detail measuring the crank, cam, bore, valve lapping, and most importantly...... torqueing all the fasteners! Great Job and keep the videos coming!

[@anthonyhawkins3576]

You had me worried. You've said before that you have to remind yourself to fill with oil. Since we didn't see you fill it, I wondered if you had. Obviously you did, but you had me thinking 🙂

[@jcondon1]

Somehow missed adding that video clip into the final cut. But rest assured it was done. Just found the missing clip kzbin.info/www/bejne/pmfQl5SXftyHrs0

[@hubertwhitlock9968]

Carburetor cleaner works for getting that carbon out of the head

[@thepoopsoup]

Couple table spoons of gum out in the gas every now and then keeps carbon from happening.

[@shatnersufolanded7785]

Actually wd 40 or PB blaster a piece of Scotch Brite works better and is less harmful.

[@woody95124]

Your defiantly top notch on all the work & details you do....Enjoy your vids

[@martyb3783]

I think that engine will run as well and as long as any new one. Great job. I learned allot!

[@PeterDurrant]

Brilliant as usual. Thank you for an informative and meticulous procedure. -Cheers 👍

[@johnoconnor9331]

GREAT job

[@stevetealey2804]

Great job james well done.

[@stevendufresne9994]

Thanks for the Great Video James always pickup new things!!👍👍

[@TopCat2021]

Great job on the rebuild; if you're not sure of the longevity of the engine in a critical application it can be adapted for use as a go cart engine for the children.

[@jcondon1]

It would be a fast go cart

[@emylrmm]

Superb work again James, and thanks for yet another high quality presentation.

[@johndawson2122]

Thank you for a very interesting video. I like your detailed views of the progress and attention to cleanliness. Great!

[@MiniLuv-1984]

Bravo!

[@dalitohana6979]

Great Informative Video. Thanks!!

[@texascottonfarmer]

👌👌👍👍 Nice work James, as always. Thanks for the video.

[@andrewrussack8647]

Really appreciate your methodical measured approach. Also makes for relaxing viewing.

[@randomvideos5872]

Asalam-Alaikum I am from Pakistan and Watching Your every single video much interesting and Informative, I learn lot of Knowledge Masha Allah. Best Wishes....

[@johnhershey4010]

Thats going to cost someone a $100.000.000 Because all of the work you did and All the Hours you put into it and Parts, Label, Blood. Sweet and Tears. And all the 24/7 hours you put into it. $1000 Parts had to go into it just to make it run like a champion.

[@somerandomguy3868]

It's looking pretty good, excellent video James

[@stonebruze1499]

WOW.... U r so detailed n u work clean

[@thomasstewart9368]

Thanks - enjoyed watching 👍

[@robertcochran7103]

What a great video. I have now watched all 3 videos for the two Briggs and Stratton engines. I do wonder how these engines compare to Honda or Kubota engines for quality. Thank you for posting these videos, I now have the itch to rebuild an engine some day. It is just a fantasy since I have no shop space and my wife and neighbors will be most, most displeased with me if I start an engine in the yard.

[@dennistennyson8856]

I liked your method of polishing the rod journal, it keeps it in round.

[@ricdenali4213]

I enjoy watching you work and the narration give the details. Nicely none.

[@MotoRestoFL]

Dump that plastiguage. Bolt the conrod together at torque spec and use an ID mic, snap gauge or better yet a dial bore gauge and subtract the ID of the big-end to the OD of the crank journal. Subtract the two. There’s your dinner, as Taryll likes to say.

[@1pcfred]

Plastigauge is a sanity check to make sure the clearance is correct. Measure twice.

[@brianwood5220]

I'm not a mechanic and I don't own an engine or a generator. But I can't stop watching your videos, James. They are so addictive. Thanks again for sharing.

[@emylrmm]

agreed!

[@vw4x4]

You guys better try someone else, he is not doing this job correctly or conventionally.

[@brianwood5220]

@@vw4x4 No, he's doing it the way that's always worked for him.

[@thebridge707]

I am watching to fix but was thinking the same thing

[@lavina58]

Me too 😊👍🍀

[@johnnybgoode6466]

Another runner, well done yet again James. Great to see 112k subscribers - roll on 150k.... its increasing quite steadily now...

[@MrTonyPiscatelle]

Great job James

[@jamesbubnick]

For the carbon on the head if it fits in your ultrasonic, try it, it will do wonders and save you the elbow work. I had a completely carbon covered briggs L head and and after a few cycles it looked almost like new. over

[@oemytech]

Great rebuild.👍and you saved some💰.

[@patrickthomas6170]

E torx also for water pump studs on Lexus timing belt job

[@danballou2202]

Nicely done. When all apart it would be wise to replace the main crankshaft seals. You are in there anyway. The shroud also helps channel the air flow generated by the fins on the flywheel through the cylinder cooling fins.

[@brianallen9810]

Muriatic acid ?? Didn't know about that. You probably spent more time and care than the folks at Briggs putting this engine together and in my opinion it's as good as new. Nice job.

[@stragenmitsuko]

That engine will be fine . I like that you decided to rebuild it . Here's a tip for you . Parts with carbon build up will clean in the ultrasonic machine without any effort . Takes a few cycles though and a heated bath . Works especially well on valves , pistons and piston rings . You 'll need some ammonia based cleaning sollution and it works like magic . Try it some day , you'll be surprised .

[@merlolimet4224]

Thank you very muc that's what I'm searching to my problem.

[@kevinkline3491]

When an engines running the piston rings rotate inside the piston ring grooves this helps keep the piston rings and the ring grooves clean of carbon. The only time they’re not rotating around is when they begin to become stuck with carbon so your ring gaps are constantly moving when running, if you ever tear an engine apart that you set them at 180 and ran it for a few hours you’ll see that they’re no longer at 180.

[@WADS-rr9wy]

Great video. I’m learning about Small engines and doing repairs on lawn equipment. Vids like this really help my understanding of all the mechanical relationships within the engine. Great stuff thanks!

[@jim96r]

Your content is so appealing and easy to watch. Thank you,😊

[@williampugh6699]

I would have liked to have seen how much piston you could see from the chipped out cylinder.

[@KensSmallEngineRepair]

Another great save Jim. We need to plan a Day to get that Tecumseh going. Also, the Generac is still waiting for you here lol!

[@jcondon1]

Trying to find a time to grab the Generac. The Tecumseh is on the back burner for now. Too many projects in the works. Thinking July I can circle back on the Tecumseh.

[@jcondon1]

I actually was working on another gp7500 yesterday. Found the cam to be worn out. Very common problem.

[@ruben_balea]

The same spring flew off me three times, first outside while disassembling a chainsaw carburetor on a trailer, then twice in the garage while reassembling the carburettor, I found it every time and it's not like my garage is exactly empty, plus the floor is rough concrete... I should have bought a lottery ticket that day! After the third time I decided to go home and get the dentist's tweezers that I use as electronic tweezers because they are much stronger than the ones that are sold as electronic tweezers, with them I had no more problems assembling the carburetor. It was the metering lever spring from a Zama C1Q-S69A carburettor, I measured one from a new rebuild kit and didn't want to open the bag but it seems to be 3x12 milimeters at most.

[@Farm_fab]

Jim, if one doesn't have an e-torx socket for the carb studs, probably a regular nut and a jam (or a thinner)nut would be sufficient together.

[@jcondon1]

Would have to be a thin nut. Have done it before and it messed up the threads a little.

[@mikehazelton497]

Good job. Thanks!

[@sgtbrown4273]

I'm so glad you fixed the little guy! 😊

[@matticus6339]

Great videos!! I just recently found your channel. Hate it took me so long, the positive is I got alot to watch to catch up.

[@gerardrusso9642]

great as usual high quality content

[@wazza33racer]

one thing about Aluminum con rods.......when they grab, they dont do such horrific damage as the steel rods.

[@daboomer2277]

You literally rebuilt that engine with the chunk missing out of the bottom of the cylinder boy😂. Nice work man..❤

[@AZVIDS]

Another very informative video👍👍👍👍

[@thesilentonevictor]

Great work on this rebuild engine

[@WILD35]

I'm really impressed your engine building skills 😄

[@philliphall5198]

Great news

[@MrGaby47]

Love your video! Learning a lot watching!

[@totaljunk7508]

I enjoyed watching the whole rebuild and stayed to the end!

[@georgehelaine]

You are one of my best shows on the tube. You should also consider having caps and t-shirts available?

[@h7qvi]

Should do the rope rubbing on the crank using sodium hydroxide cloth until all aluminium gone. Only then, do any sanding, probably starting at 1500 grade. Should spray wd40 on the gudgeon pin before pulling it out. Brass wire brush better than stainless on aluminium coz it's softer.

[@jcondon1]

True, although I find the brass brushes drop a lot of bristles. Still safer though.

[@mudzy9820]

this video helped me figure that the engine on my pressure washer no name brand is a B&S lol

[@kcmosley4886]

So after you finish up here you still have the Nuro patient scheduled for surgery at 3:30pm!

[@liljoeii6091]

Thank you for the video

[@philliphall5198]

Put piston in front of electric heater for a few minutes and it will easily come out