Broadhead Tuning 2.0

In this video I revisit my method of broadhead tuning and why I do it the way that I do.
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@Inside_Out_Precision

[@marvpeery8642]

It took 7 different videos to finally find someone who knew what they were talking about. Thank you for this.

[@GeLeeOutdoors]

3 years later, I’ve been moving my rest wrong. Today I moved my rest towards my Broadhead and BAM grouping great with fixed broadheads

[@frsamfrench]

I've been screwing around for hours doing the wrong thing. Thank you for giving me the method that actually works!

[@InsideOutPrecision]

Glad it helped! Keep em in the middle

[@rbh014]

A few years ago I tried moving my rest towards the dot because that was the conventional wisdom I found online and spent hours chasing my tail. I finally threw my hands up and decided to do the opposite since I had nothing to lose. Within 3 adjustments I was hitting together at 60 yds and laughed to myself the whole way home. Thank you for this video!

[@jacobbrazell8684]

I have referenced back to this video probably four times this hunting season! What he says is true!!!

[@danielcollins7757]

Ok so, 2 weeks ago I was having trouble grouping field points and broadhaeds together and getting really inconsistant shots. So I went right back to the start checking my nock point level to my rest, resetting my 1st,2nd and 3rd axis and then set about paper tuning. i was getting bullet holes with both bare and fletched shafts. I then tried the broadheads again same result 4 inches to the right of my field points!!! I checked out KZbin and found a few video's, one of which you mentioned and set about doing as the said person described.. but that created more problems! Today I found your video and ripped the bow out of the case set the rest back to were it was pre said person and set about with your method. BOOOM!! Broadheads and field points together and just a minor sight adjustment to bring them back on target and Im ready to nail a big mountain boar in the morning!! Awesome video mate and well explained, makes much more sense. Keep up the awesome videos, Im a newby to the sport and need all the help I can get. Oh And happy new year from Down Under!

[@InsideOutPrecision]

Love it

[@tyhansen8]

Literally had the same shit, I’m goin to try this tomorrow. I had just chalked it up to the bowtech revolt x has so much shit to tune and mess with. I was goin to aim 4 inches right when shooting a fixed blade, goin to fix this shit now !

[@Pattyboybx]

@@tyhansen8 just move the cams opposite of where you would move the rest

[@tyhansen8]

Pattyboybx I had the original cams lock up on me, the bow shop had to poach a set just so I could get out opening week in Nebraska. I’m not goin to mess with the new ones until season is over.

[@Pattyboybx]

@@tyhansen8 I actually stripped the sets screws that lock the cams. My shop called Bowtech and they actually sent me all new cams for free. It’s crazy that the screws themselves couldn’t be replace. Luckily this was done just in time. Yea I wouldn’t mess with anything at this point. Good luck this season.

[@josephchavez8280]

4:20-5:00 you just saved me tons and years of misery tuning my broadheads with a hoyt. I’ve taken my bow into local pro shop and telling them I was having broadhead flight issues. They’d move my rest say I’m good send me on my way (don’t allow broadheads shot in their shop) get home to have the same problem. I just threw it on my press adjusted the buss cable and got perfect broadhead to field point flight. Thanks man.

[@tommygunrva]

Tag Dud in this man. He’s a good dude and I’m willing to bet he’d make a quick video correction supporting your method.

[@slalomnorth]

You’re right. This channel is better than nock on, more in detail and helpful than most channels. I just got my first compound (Mathews traverse) after shooting only traditional my whole life. I’ve learned everything on the compound from this channel.

[@nicolaalberti7736]

This channel is great, but I think the channel of the "black and green archer" is great too ! That guy has probably forgotten more things about bows than most of us will ever learn, however, what he said in his video about BH tuning surprised me too, indeed !

[@slalomnorth]

nicola alberti I agree. Dud is still the man.

[@torreyintahoe]

@@nicolaalberti7736 Yeah but he's boring, he talks slow and it takes five mines to make a point. This channel blows his out of the water.

[@nicolaalberti7736]

@@torreyintahoe I like both of them, but I admit that, expecially in the last times, I watch this channel more than the one of the other guy...

[@danjuteau7368]

This method makes perfect sense and worked excellent for me. You provide some of the best archery information on the net.

[@InsideOutPrecision]

Appreciate that! Glad it helped

[@rotor_9fpv937]

You are exactly right... And it is best to eyesight your pins using a field tip and so on...

[@ApexPredatorOutdoors]

You know it never made sense to me that guys would say that. This make much more sense to me.

[@erix288]

Was having issues with broadband tuning. I was following some of the advise he spoke about but with I done what he said to do in this video my issue was fixed in 2 shots. Thank you

[@spittins]

Seriously man, i truly appreciate everything you said, it made complete sense, but then, just today, i went and did it your way, and guess what... thank you. you rock 🤘

[@Jimbowiejr]

I use your site like a dictionary, whenever I struggle with something I just come here to find the answers to my problems. Been twice the last two days. This and the let off video. If you have shoulder injuries, the more let off the better. Just went from 80 to 85 on my Ventum 33. One little peace of information, if your shoulder doesn’t allow for a correct high elbow it’s ok to be close to level as long as you pull back, not down or out ( tear in labrum of right shoulder, surgery corrected rotator cuff etc but labrum still tore, 25 yrs worth)

[@j.don.hunter3219]

Don't worry about the comments. I've tried every available method you can use and you're right with the way you tune it works 100% of the time. Thanks you helped me a lot best info out there

[@itismylifesogoforit]

hmm I still don't get it. why the rest influences the tail (or the back part of the shaft) when it's horizontal, but then instead influences the point (or the front part of the shaft) when it comes to vertical? appreciate your clarification on this, bothering me quite a long time.

[@jeffhafley1868]

Thank you so much, worked like a charm!!! I had been doing it the opposite way for years and always settled on close enough, now I'm cutting fetching off if I shot my field tip first.

[@mattgriffith5044]

Me too. Close enough for years,get frustrated and move the sight. Did it his way today and have both hitting same at 40yds.

[@FISHFANATIC95]

Had to save this video after seeing other videos and seeing the comments here! Thanks for what you do brother. Makes perfect sense to me!

[@SlimPickins_07]

MAN I always have trouble remembering which way to move the rest when broadhead tuning. I recently switched to a little bigger diameter fixed blade and it was hitting a few inches right compared to field points. I kept going the wrong dang way after watching a couple other videos. It did get a little better moving the wrong way, but I was getting some whacky flight. Watched this video and 5 minutes later broadheads were hitting with field points.

[@JW-uj3we]

Your level of experience and logic always amaze me. Love your instruction vids, thanks lots.

[@RobertQuinlan-kz1mt]

Great explanation it a sign of a good teacher to explain how and why things work or doesn't work. Keep up the good work RTQ

[@bowhogfl]

Buddy I just did this for the second time. First time I figured it out accidentally on my own and didn’t understand why... then I saw this video and clarified everything.

[@ApexPredatorOutdoors]

There is so much misinformation in our community thanks for such a good explanation!

[@WM-jy9dz]

now this one kept me busy, and after spending quite some time to evaluate all the experts' arguments, the following seem to be plausible for me: 1) if the BH hits to the right (left) of the field point, the likely cause is that the BH (due to the surface) was planing a little bit (assuming that the weight and dynamic spine of the arrows are all the same). 2} to minimize the planing (where the BH is more effected as the field point) I have to move (like with a sail) the BH a little bit more out of the wind, 3) which would mean I would have to move the BH (sail) into the opposite direction, 4) and the only (?...stay tuned) way to do this is to move the arrow rest also into the opposite direction; 5) as a result the BH should now plan less, the field tip is less effected by this move due to the smaller surface thus the arrows should now group closer. If I would follow your approach I actually would increase the planing for the BH, the field point wouldn't be effected so much, thus the grouping would become bigger? ....sounds plausible, BUT (I mentioned it kept me busy for a while 😁)...the contemplating above didn't consider the impact of the other "sails" involved in this equation: the vanes! ...by moving the rest towards the broadhead (moving the BH more into the wind) I also move the vanes more into the wind, and the lever of the vanes (distance of the way to the center) is bigger than the lever of the BH (especially if you have a high FOC!!!...so the arrow will pivoting close to the BH providing more "corrective power") - therefore THIS APPROACH COULD WORK INDEED TOO❗❗❗ Conclusion: both approaches can work, it will depend on your specific arrow setup (especially the FOC and the fletching) AND the distance (time you give the vanes to correct the flight). Personally I think the "opposite direction approach" is more promising, your approach will likely only work with a very specific setup you shoot at a fixed distance; the results will likely differ if you do the tuning with a bare shaft without fletching. Eta: @2:55 you say ..." if you have a tail-right tear you have to move your rest to the left" ....that's usually not correct?.... I say usually as there is indeed more than one location of the rest where you can get a bullet hole pending on the archers paradox and the DYNAMIC spine (stiffness) of your arrow. However this second rest position you get when moving the rest to the left (sticking with your example) is far out from the centre shot - when this happened to me (when I started with archery) I was absolutely convinced that this was the right spot for the rest (as verified by the bullet hole), I was just wondering why my sight was totally maxed out wrt windage adjustment options 😁.

[@deancook867]

I’m currently going through this now. I just can’t get my bow to tune in Broadhead, followed everyone’s advice and all the Broadhead tuning vids. So I started reading comments and here we are. I hit a wall so I sat down and started thinking. I came up with exactly the same reasoning you did. I’m going for it tomorrow. I’ll update.

[@MrBanolicious]

Are you worried about your paper tune if you’re adjusting the rest towards the broadhead?

[@timbow50]

After u get a bullet hole proper tune with the hunting arrow and have sighted in the field point and the broad head isn't hitting the same point of impact (POI), make only like 132nd" movement of the rest at a time. Seriously, that small amount can work wonders sometimes. Yoke tuning on some bows may work too. Every bow has there own quirks. Good Luck Mr.

[@VinnyJuly69]

I’m always learning and I Ike your vids. I think where the arguments start is from this point: if your rest is kicking your bh to the left of the field point then the rest is directing the arrow to the left. When you draw back, the arrow is already aimed to the left and moving the rest to the left further will only magnify the deviation. The confusion is because one method focuses on the front of the arrow and the other focuses on the tail. That’s what I think is causing conflict between the two. Either way there is still a resighting of the sight to bring the points of impact together or re-center the impact point. I’m not arguing for either side but I have heard of both methods working for people.

[@harvestpnw3511]

The problem where he is wrong (IMO) and why the other opinion is right: he is assuming the rest is kicking the tail. This is NOT the case with a drop away rest, as there is nothing actually touching the arrow after release. The only thing the rest does is point the arrow in a direction needed to be aimed. Therefore, the focus should be on the front of the arrow, and yes, this method will throw off the tuning of your bow. This is why you should go the opposite direction when adjusting your rest.

[@mitchimal]

@@harvestpnw3511 touching a rest or not is irrelevant, it's physics, the arrow doesn't want to change direction but the back of the arrow is being pushed and there's weight up front which resists moving so the tail will then kick out and the weight up front is now pointing to one side. Literally it's not a right and wrong argument it's simply physics. If you don't understand it, then that's ok but unless you understand how the physics is distributing force to manipulate the arrows direction then you can't really say you're right. Not trying to argue with you but want to help you understand.

[@mitchimal]

@@harvestpnw3511 it's about the initial position of the rest and the angle of the arrow at full draw, the rest doesn't have to be touching the arrow

[@greatwhitenorth762]

Physics and math; foundations of the Universe. Solid gold logic and explanation of how and why Kellen, keep the great videos coming. Much appreciated.

[@JoshWheelers]

This worked for me too! I have done the opposite approach and had the exact same outcome you describe. My broadheads did move but so did my field points, in the same direction. SO FRUSTRATING! Today I tried this method as I am switching to a new arrow and re-tuning my bow anyway. I had already center shot tuned my bow, nock tuned a couple of bare shaft arrows through paper and was just thinking about my broadheads when I came across this video. Recalling my previous frustrations I thought, man, what do I have to lose by trying your method?! Well, after shooting a few rounds of a broadhead & field point I was able to identify which way my broadhead was planing and I started moving my rest that way and sure enough both the broadhead and field point moved that way but what I could see was that the arrows were now aligning more parallel in the target and closer together, meaning the broadhead shaft was in better alignment with the field point shaft. I made a few more very small adjustments and got them both looking great. Then I sighted in for the adjustment made to the rest and man, it worked! Then I thought, I wonder what's happened to my paper tune?! So, I shot through paper and it was still good but now I noticed a slight nock high tare. I adjusted my rest up a tiny amount and got perfect bullet holes! I'm stoked! I go back to 20 yards and now I'm shooting bare shaft broadheads with my bare shaft field points!!! AWESOME! Thank you!

[@bobbymartin8042]

Spot on dude, I have argued this point with guys who have shot a lot longer than me.. It's basic physics

[@deepdivingdak]

Thank you so much for this video. This ACTUALLY WORKED and saved me so much frustration. It is crazy how much misinformation is out there telling people to move their rests the opposite way for broadhead tuning.

[@bowhogfl]

I gotta say huge thanks to you for this video. I accidentally figured this out on my own while tuning and thought it went against everything I’ve ever read or heard. This proved I’m not crazy and my bow isn’t a piece of crap! Thanks buddy!

[@jimmiekaelin4804]

Your way works. It’s a no brainer.

[@mr.huckleberry4951]

I’m a newer bow shooter, but I have been in the precision and LR rifle world for many years. I’ve listened to -and made- many arguments in the rifle world (both good and bad ones). I know a good argument when I hear one. You sir, made a better argument than your counterparts. Well done.

[@sportbikeguy9875]

The video I watched JUST before this one, was the one with the "black and green archer" you mention (lol). The science behind this method makes more sense

[@keithstrat]

Spot on, you're 100% correct.! I've been trying to get guys to understand this for a long time..!!

[@archerash6695]

Best channel hands down!

[@83-Outdoors]

I've always had trouble with tuning broadheads and fieldpoints and always followed the the other method and never seemed to work. Tried ur method yesterday and alot better results

[@randylarkin7022]

This guy knows what he is talking about great information on tuning your arrows thank you

[@Pattyboybx]

Dude. I’ve been trying to tune my revolt x for a good month now. Bare shafts hit left and field points to the right. Just today I recentered my rest and cams. Once again shafts to left. I moved the rest towards the field points which is right. All that happen was both set of arrows were shooting further to the right on target. Same spacing between the two on impact. I’d say about a good 6 inches. Then I remembered that Australian dudes KZbin channel and how he said “sometimes you need to move the rest opposite of what people claim”. So I did this and bam!!!! All on point. This was at 20 yards. I then grabbed my broad head and took a 60 yard shot. Yea I jumped the gun a bit from frustration. Anyway the bH was on point at 60. So yea you’re right. Don’t listen to Hoyt oh I mean pse “experts” 🤫😉

[@r1sabotage]

Thanks for the video. I was shooting about 12 inches to the left at 60 yard when I shot my broadhead. I used your teaching and both are now hitting together. incredible, thanks...

[@scottmorton3146]

Hey mate, keep up the good information. I’m gonna go buy a hat! Well done.

[@TheSchmuel]

good job. You are correct on BH tuning. the point is to get field points and fixed blades hitting the same spot. then adjust your sight to bring both back to the bulleye. If your broadhead is impacting to the right of your field point, move rest in direction of broadhead... I too have wondered why John Dudley would say the opposite but I think its because he was only caring where the broadhead hit and not the field point. At that point, you may as well just sight in your bow for broad heads and not even bother with the rest at all, as you stated.

[@nicolaalberti7736]

expecially because, if you do like J.D. says, you make your tuning problem worst...

[@joeybennett1491]

I agree with this method based on tuning Iron Will Wide BHs. I was able to shoot out to 70 yards with these BHs while grouping with my field points.

[@chengsterboi07]

Question. I am shooting an deadlock cam system. To broadhead instead of moving my rest how will I get the field point to hit the same spot as my broadheads? Do I move the cams to the broadheads or away from broadheads left/right movement?

[@InsideOutPrecision]

You would move the cams opposite of the broadhead

[@TheAllankuz]

Good video and what I've experienced, (with perfect, weak or stiff spine) is the vertical movements never change, but as you stated if you get a weak spine, good luck on the left and rights! What I also think should be stressed is the adjustment left or right should be extremely minor, (again like you stated 1/32" to 1/16" max). I shot Bowtech for many years and yoke tuning was so straight forward, but been shooting Prime past few years and have used your method of tuning my rest with solid results. My question, (since the new Primes are coming with top hats), when do you change/swap top hats over moving the rest?

[@nicolaalberti7736]

Never owned a Prime, but if they now use top hats like Mathews, I think the best method you can use is to set the rest at the raccomanded center shot (usually 13/16 from the riser) and use top hats to get as close as possible to the perfect tuning, then make the needed minor adjustements moving the rest for the horizontal corrections and the rest or the nocking point for the vertical ones.

[@jonah-n8l]

If u got a stiff spine good luck with the left and right too

[@jeffodriscoll3971]

I don't have a press to add/remove twists in my string. Can you explain how to use a flexible cable guard to make adjustments for broadhead tuning?

[@Therezlife360]

I agree only because I need to learn about it more

[@bdaddy3536]

It’s about time someone made a video about this. I have been saying this for years about all the miss information on the internet when it comes to bh tuning. It took me a long time to learn that it was all wrong.

[@danielellisporter]

Boxing 101 nope

[@j.g.2825]

Lol

[@daneshelman440]

Just fixed 2 years of frustration with my Triax! So much that I bought the VXR I was so sick of “chasing my field tip”

[@tomcruise9815]

I’m in the same boat with my Triax. So damn frustrating!

[@ApexPredatorOutdoors]

Have you had any luck or experience with the Ethics archery spinning inserts? The idea seems legit, but IDK.. supposed to make this a non issue..

[@InsideOutPrecision]

Haven't played with them. But generally you dont want anything moving on your shaft. Lots of gimmicks out there, be careful

[@ApexPredatorOutdoors]

Inside Out Precision I would agree. The idea is that the broadhead cannot steer the arrow, but idk.

[@BowhuntingAfrica]

Thanks for your videos. I know many people have different ways of doing things and I am glad you are confident in your method. You are however opposite to pretty much everyone else out there and I personally don't see how it is going to work. It may help if you explained this all with a "first person" view so there is no confusing left and right. Simply put ..... if the arrow is flying to the left due to the rest. It would be logical to assume the rest is pointing it to the left. If you then move the rest further left, the problem will get worse. Please tell me how I'm wrong?

[@TheBudgetSportsman]

Bowhunting Africa glad to see I’m not alone in my total confusion of his explanation.

[@Cparchery...]

I definitely agree with you on this I've watched the videos of people doing it the opposite way and when I did that it got worse then I thought about why my broadheads were hitting left and realized I was doing the opposite of what I needed to do

[@bobdibb7622]

Question if moving for a correction left did I hit lower with field point. Hadn’t moved rest up or down yet. Thanks

[@KLeger-iq3so]

What's confusing me about this issue is why would you change from rest towards broadhead for windage to rest opposite of broadhead for elevation. Why would that change? If the tail kick is what you're trying to correct, the procedure should stay the same windage or elevation. Or perhaps in missing something here.

[@InsideOutPrecision]

Because if your broadhead is hitting high, your arrow is tail low. To correct a tail low tear you drop the rest. If its hitting low its because the arrow us flying tail high, meaning you need to raise the rest to bring the front of the arrow up.

[@jonathanmartin7003]

Need a little help. My broadheads are hitting about 3-4 inches to the left and a hair lower than field points. I tried to adjust horizontally first. I moved my rest a little to the left (towards broadhead as instructed in this video) and now my broadhead is hitting even further left and is almost off target. Followed up with a field point and it hit a little left of the original bullseye. Am I doing something wrong?

[@InsideOutPrecision]

Well when you move your rest left, its going to shift your point of impact to the left. But it should bring your broadhead and field point closer together. Once theyre hitting together, you just mkve your sight until they're both in the middle

[@brittpereira2600]

You helped me with the broad head hitting to the right of the field tips it worked

[@BlackCobra331]

Great tuning tips, all your videos, some of the best on Utube!

[@toddwalker4301]

Your logic is sound, Sir.

[@space.youtube]

6:36 lol Be careful, you're going to take an eye out ; )

[@scottcarlson8502]

Space Jockey he played it off well!!!😂😂

[@jseekell]

😂😅

[@chrisdunn8038]

Thank you for your advice, it works! My broadheads (125gr Slick Trick Grizz Tricks) were shooting 3" to the right of my field points but they were grouping well. I just did the arrow rest adjustment, in the direction of my broadheads, and they eventually came together. Took about 30 mins of shooting and making very minor adjustments. Does this method work the same way if broadheads are hitting lower than field points? Should I also adjust the arrow rest down?

[@blainegrissom4586]

Opposite for vertical adjustment. Same direction for horizontal adjustment.

[@chrisdunn8038]

Blaine Grissom thank you for clarifying this for me! I removed the lighted nocks from my hunting arrows, installed new nocks in all arrows, and made one very minor adjustment up on the rest and it is money. I am happy with how easy this was and how well my arrows are shooting with broadheads. I also weighed all of my arrows and they are within 1 grain of each other. Appreciate the advice

[@samdingo1956]

Explain to me why you move your rest opposite for vertical tuning, but move the same direction as your BH is hitting in horizontal? I've always moved my BH towards my field point.

[@InsideOutPrecision]

you just have to think of it like paper tuning… if the broad head is low it’s because the arrow is tail high… so just like in paper tuning you’d bring the rest up. If the broadhead is left, it’s because it’s kicking tail right, so you move the rest left. Moving the rest towards the field will obviously move your point of impact in that direction, but doesn’t generally get your broadhead and field point to hit in the same spot

[@kevinfowler6065]

I’m retired so I’ve got time to spend with my bow. I’m an okay shot and getting better every week. This week I started included one broad head with my practice rounds. I’m glad I found your video before I started messing around. I want to shoot my blades as good as I do my field points all the way out to sixty yards. It’s gonna take some time. Anyway thanks for your help with this.

[@kidbowjb]

You my friend are 100% correct

[@zackg8129]

Thanks for the advice man! I picked up a couple boxes of the Exodus broadheads today. field points are just about driving tacks. broadheads shooting 5in low....I will try to move the rest in the morning 🤞🤔

[@Hunter01165]

That’s my problem….. gotta fix that

[@amc31b]

Tried this today. You are right. Move your arrow rest towards the broadhead to correct left or right.

[@NathanMJones]

Great video! What adjustments would you recommend for the Bowtech Deadlock system? You mention Bowtech two cam systems, but perhaps not the system that moves the cams laterally and therefore the string. For example, a BH hitting left of FP, would you move the cams right (i.e. opposite of the rest adjustments you would make in a similar scenario)?

[@InsideOutPrecision]

So you would push the cams in the opposite direction of the broadhead

[@NathanMJones]

@@InsideOutPrecision Awesome! Thanks for the reply! Looking forward to getting my new IW broadheads tuned in the near future

[@NoNoGSP]

Amazing I was tinkering with lighted nocks with G5 montecs it's amazing how the weight of the nock throws the arrow spine off just enough to get erratic arrow flight..went back to the factory nocks and the montecs shoot just like field points out to 60 yards

[@nicolaalberti7736]

Maybe just a FOC problem...

[@Sapper_Rage]

Did you nock tune your bare shafts?

[@FishinOnaMission]

So i have a hoyt torrex xt. If im shooting a bullet hole throught paper. Should i just move the rest and not put twists in the cables?

[@InsideOutPrecision]

you can use the yokes if you have a press

[@torreyintahoe]

So, is this information assuming that you've done a good job bare shaft tuning and your broad heads still aren't shooting right? In your bare shaft videos you've said that your broad heads should be hitting with your field points if you bare shaft tune correctly.

[@InsideOutPrecision]

yeah generally that’s the case. If your bare shaft and fletch shaft are shooting together your broad heads and field points should be shooting the same. If there’s just a a minor difference (1-3”) then you can use this method

[@torreyintahoe]

@@InsideOutPrecision Thanks for the clarification Kellum. You're the best source of info on KZbin!

[@ChilcoteForestryServices]

If your paper tuning is done and the arrows are flying straight...and if then the broadhead hits left of the field tips, you would move the rest to the right? Maybe. Im confused now.

[@InsideOutPrecision]

No, TOWARDS BROADHEAD. As I explained in the video, if your broadhead is hitting left, it's because your arrow is kicking slightly tail right some time during flight. It's a very minor adjustment. This will of course cause your field point to impact slightly to the left, but if the broadhead and field point hit in the same spot after the adjustment, then you just bump your sight over.

[@chadhouser973]

Question! Field points flying well and grouping tight at 40yrds. Broadheads (standard slick trick 100gr) are flying wild. 65lb drawing 29in. Straight Vanes. Do I need to add a helical to my vanes??

[@InsideOutPrecision]

Yeah you definitely need a heliclal or offset

[@chadhouser973]

Inside Out Precision Thanks. I’ll try it

[@chadhouser973]

Inside Out Precision Put a 3 degree helical on my vanes...made a drastic difference in Broadhead accuracy

[@Flatrocker512]

Does this apply to vertical axis as well? Using a whisker biscuit.

[@nmtidefan4735]

I like JD and he has some good videos but damn this video here fixed me up in about 10 minutes.

[@claytonwiescamp4907]

Hey man your videos are very helpful. I can't say how many of your videos I have actually watched, along with others for setting up and tuning my Matthews. However not only did I try your method and it was the opposite way I should have gone but also so many others saying the same thing. You should probly try it again and clarify yet again how to broadhead tune.

[@toddwolfe1978]

Great review and explained very well. Is aligning the spine of your arrow the same on every arrow as far as when you fletch them important for fixed heads? I shoot mechanicals and have never had an issue.

[@InsideOutPrecision]

You know it doesn't hurt to spine align your arrows, but it's not like it will take your group from a 4" group to a 1" group. It will help a little bit though. More just for peace of mind

[@travisholibaugh8413]

So I'm shooting about 3in to the left of FP. I shoot the V3 and I am out of space to move left because of the cable roller. Could just shim my cams to the left with the top hats?

[@InsideOutPrecision]

If your hitting left it’s because your arrows are kicking tail right, so you’d actually need to push a cam one shim size to the right

[@steve8828]

I absolutely agree and I really like your videos. I spine index my bare shaft, then bare shaft tune. Then I broad head tune. Question: Why bare shaft tune at all? Why not go directly to broad head tune?

[@InsideOutPrecision]

Because bareshaft tuning will tell you a lot about spine and if done correctly your broadheads will usually fly with your field points right away.

[@rudolphferdinand3634]

Your bow will determine what way to go. I have eight compound bows, and all do their thing. Somethings the field point is left move the rest left, it may or not work; the bow will determine what will. Shift the rest may move the field point arrow further left or right now the board head where the field point was. More work to be done.

[@hammerinwithhorton1217]

And also idc if your 7 or 8 hours away I would like To drive to the shop one day just to have you all really make sure my bow is set up correctly can’t find anybody within 3 hours of where I am that does true quality work and cares if my bow is set up correct or not where are you all located exactly?

[@GlenKimpton]

Rest type make a difference? I can see a whisker biscuit and drop away behaving differently

[@InsideOutPrecision]

Yeah whisker biscuits can be tricky. Sometimes they make the arrow do exactly the opposite of what a fall away does

[@SomewhereInWisconsin]

That's true, I actually have had good luck moving my rest in the opposite direction to bring my broadhead towards my FP. However, I have also bumped it slightly in the opposite direction, like you are saying now, and have had success. I made a video, on BH tuning, and stated it wrong, as I didn't actually have to make any Left Right adjustment.

[@silentassassin1108]

My broadhead was hitting about 4” right of field tips at 40 yards. Moved the rest right and the broadhead went further right. If I moved it left the broadhead hit where I was aiming but my field points were now 4” left. Nothing brought them together

[@cyosh345]

Hope you can steer me in the right direction. First, thanks for that video...it was the most helpful so far. I have a Hoyt Helix, 70#, 29",340spine 28.25" arrows. Sight in with field tips fine, then broadheads corkscrew counter clockwise. Im hearing you explain about planing of the blades and that makes sense. My tear on paper is tip left, nock right...which yoke cables should I be adding twist to? Also, one video said that indicates too stiff of spine...340 seems right according to the charts (although I've shot 400 with my 70#pse for years...) Thanks again🤙🏾

[@bradnelson8410]

With all due respect, I have experimented with this, a lot, and I have not found this to be true. How does moving the rest left fix a tail right?

[@InsideOutPrecision]

The same way it fixes it when paper tuning?? In rare cases when someone is using a cable driven drop away rest that doesn’t support the arrow long enough to effect the tail of the arrow rather than the front of the arrow, you will move it opposite the broadhead. But that’s the only time I haven’t seen it work?

[@bradnelson8410]

That makes sense. I’ll give that a try! Enjoy your videos 👍🏻

[@budl5328]

If I have a newer Hoyt can I still use the rest move method since I do not have a bow press to do string twist method?

[@jonah-n8l]

Don’t need a press, draw bow back half way turn bow side ways put bow cam on screw driver shaft and let down slow! Instant bow press! If u can’t do this then ur over bowed!

[@RobertWilliams82-22]

my set up works opposite of this… not saying your wrong but on my v3, I have to bring my BH to my FP… but I have a micro adjust rest and don’t go buy about 1/64”…. In MY HEAD, the BH sits closer to the rest and with a drop away, the tail never comes into contact with the rest… so “I” want to bring my BH directly in front of the travel path of my nock…

[@darcybarkhouse4732]

I’m curious how if you move you rest one arrow will move closer to the other instead of both arrows moving?

[@jonah-n8l]

Because u move the rest micro literally micro movements! Like loosen and tighten micro

[@Sapper_Rage]

Is that tigerstripe camo in the background on the left?

[@billhemphill1243]

I have watched multiple videos on BH tuning. Assuming correct spine, Dudley, MFJJ, and several others (all who I greatly respect, admire and appreciate) advise to move the rest towards the field tip. That is, if BH is left of the field tip - move rest to the right (and vice versa). You advise the opposite. I have watched your video and read the comments. I'm BH tuning this weekend. I'm going with your advice. Based on the good reports below, I vote for a "cage match" video: Inside Out Precision vs. Podium Archery and NockOnArchery. The Ranch Fairy could referee.

[@InsideOutPrecision]

Lol yeah it’s always a topic of debate. If you move the rest opposite of the broadhead , it will surely move your broad head over, but your field tip will also move over. I want them to hit together

[@johnelkins4958]

I just did this day before yesterday, and my bow must have been way off. I had a slightly high and 4" to the right broadhead ( NAP hellrazor). I had to move the rest to the left to get them to impact together.

[@anthonyfiducia]

I have a Hoyt Alfalfa X do I move my rest or try moving turn the yokes on the cams first?

[@InsideOutPrecision]

@@anthonyfiducia there are no yokes on the alpha X. Your pro shop should use the shim system to tune it with a field point first, the. You can micro the rest for broadhead tuning

[@anthonyfiducia]

Okay thanks I realize that, however micro adjusting my rest causes my bow not to be centered, I did it and the arrows were fish tailing a little. I’ve decided to tune my broadheads with my sight.

[@ryan_ramirez_exp]

So if I am shooting to the left with BH, I need to move the rest to the left?

[@InsideOutPrecision]

Correct. This will most likely move the point of impact of your field point slightly left, but will bring the broad head to the right. Once they’re hitting together you move the sight until they’re both in the middle

[@royhoglund1322]

Gotcha, I should have listened to the whole video! Keep them coming!

[@bobdibb7622]

Thanks didn’t take to long doing it this was and makes more sense then doing it the (other way) .

[@ronaldirvineII]

"If i wanted my broadheads to only hit in the middle then why wouldnt i just sight in for my broadheads instead of moving my rest" that was absolute gold kellen you had me laughing so hard😂😂😂

[@InsideOutPrecision]

@@ronaldirvineII because they aren’t flying as true as they could be, resulting in less transfer of energy upon impact, decreasing penetration

[@ronaldirvineII]

@@InsideOutPrecision no no no you read that wrong. I just repeated what you said cuz i thought it was gold. My bad ill edit that

[@InsideOutPrecision]

@@ronaldirvineII ohhhh haha my bad man!

[@MaxxHDROM]

this make sense to me. i was having this issue with broadhead tuning last year and coulndt get it right. went back to my schwackers.

[@gunneyhwy]

Very helpful video. Thank you!

[@greekmaster1001]

You are the best....period!

[@jterry081]

So is that the same if your broadhead is hitting low or high or only for left and right?

[@InsideOutPrecision]

@@jterry081 I explain it in the video, but for vertical difference you move the rest opposite of the broadhead

[@jterry081]

Yelp that’s my bad! I should kept listening sorry!

[@InsideOutPrecision]

@@jterry081 haha your’re good my man!

[@InsideOutPrecision]

There are certain set ups where you have to move the rest opposite the broadhead both ways. Usually happens with a cable driven rest. I wish there was an exact science to it, but sometimes if what’s “supposed to work” doesn’t, you gotta try the opposite! Good luck this season 👊

[@bbmas1930]

I guess the confusion comes from walk back tuning principles versus the above bare shaft tuning principles. Take a right handed shooter who gets bare shaft right tears and thus bare shaft impacts to the left of fletched and the shaft lands skewed with a nock right angle. The above described bare shaft tuning principle says move the rest towards the bareshaft to get both to group and then sight in at the end. But in a walk back tune scenario if you are ALREADY sighted in at short range but your arrows push to the left of the dot, one could assume that (lets say spine is correct) you have a left impact because the arrow is naturally flying tail right out of the bow and planing left - same reason, yeah. In walk back tuning wisdom you would not move the rest left (to correct that flight as you would in a bare shaft tune) you move the rest right. In both scenarios the arrow has tended to push left at distance due to the same flight characteristics yet, the remedy is opposite in each tuning method. I think that is the source of the confusion and I cant see how opposite rest movements are true for the same cause. I can bare shaft tune as described here moving my rest towards the bare shaft but what I find is that I end up outside of centre shot specs (visibly out to the left). You could argue that my rest has chased form/ grip torque/ release technique off to the left and I'm not denying you'd be right. I'm human. But if I was to walk back tune adjusting my rest to the right, would my rest position end up being in spec for the same result? I think that with bare shaft tuning a lot of the rest adjustments towards the bare shaft that people are making are made chasing poor form more than poor bow spec. The ultimate test would be for the author to bare shaft tune AND separately walk back tune the same bow/arrow straight after the paper tuning step. The resulting position of the rest could then be compared between both methodologies and the groupings compared. If rest positions end up the same, then both methods obviously arrive at the same outcome from different sides. If not, there's a flaw somewhere or a bow is capable of achieving the same arrow flight and accuracy in several different rest/sight position combinations. For me having done both I'm thinking maybe the solution is to set the bow right down the middle and shoot appropriately spined/length bare shafts at 20y adjusting tip weights until they land dead straight. Then Walk back tune this bare shaft out to say 25y and I find it hard to believe that a broadhead or field point would land far from the result. Best of both worlds.

[@d500mag2]

The only thing I have ever used walkback for was getting sight dialed in.