Brother toner transfer - which media is the best?

[@sto2779]

0.2mm clearance and 0.05mm track width is good enough for almost all pro pcb prototyping, for example soldering QFN chips, this video was really helpful. 99% of all videos on the internet shows people etching pcb using dip chips, I needed some real precision details of the classic "toner transfer method". This video tells it all. I was in complete dilemma (just like anyone else) whether or not if I should use TT method or the newer "photoresist" method. This particular TT method of using photo paper with a laser printer seems to be bulletproof, no one has ever complained about it and always recommend using it. This video is proof that TT method is still a better choice, simple and fast. Thanks!

[@laneboysrc]

Your persistence put a big smile on my face. Thanks for sharing your tinkering!

[@randomtronic]

You are welcome. Thank you for your comment! :)

[@jjustinengineer]

Excellent!! I'll give it a try with my Brother printer. Thank you for your work.

[@judkiewiczj]

Thank you very much for this video and you right parchment paper is a headache to put a print on it, but transfers very good. I have used sandpaper 1000 with very little scratch (the more you scratch, the more difficult will be transfer later). Generally I am not satisfied with parchment paper. Wax paper is doing much better job, however to peel it off I had to use heat gun.

[@bendtherules0]

Cheap photo paper worked great with my Brother printer as well! Thanks for this video. To remove the second layer of paper, I brushed the whole board pretty roughly with a old toothbrush and that didn't affect the toner at all. Without clearing this inner paper, the clearances might not be etched reliably.

[@anpier926]

Thank you! 0.2 mm is O.K. is really good for a diy PCB, you shared a lot of information on how to do it.

[@OIE82]

Very well-done video. I need to print a small board (2.5 x 3.5cm) for a project and have not had success using my Brother Laser with magazine paper. I will give the photo paper a try.

[@SpinStar1956]

Great video. If you want a blue silk-screen you can use the photo-resist film but I think your black looks great 👍 😊

[@dmytro5798]

I bought the same printer. The problem was to find fine toner on market. Not all toners on market are suitable for laser PCB transfer. Empirically, I find the best toner(in terms of print boldness and polygon fill) - Mitsubishi Japanese brand (don't take it as an advertisement). By the way, only this toner suited me for Chinese yellow thermal transfer paper. Due to the fact that the yellow paper is very thin, it was necessary(as well as the author of the video) to cut out small pieces(to the size of the PCB) and stick with adhesive tape in place of the printout.

[@hyperhektor7733]

finally i achived some results after having difficulties with acetone and ironing method. I have a HP Laserjet 1010 which need the max temperature my iron can heat up (350-360 degrees celsius). Also the paper is very important i tried normal,photo paper which did not work at all and i guess they are shielding the heat too much. Backing paper works a but gives unclean results. Finally magazine paper (ikea ad cataloge) works with pretty results like in the video. But i figured out its important to put the piece with the paper into water before removing the paper. (2mins heating, 3-5mins cool down on rair, then put into warm water for 3mins, and remove the paper under water). Another idea i will try out is using a soldering iron to rub the paper from behind (since my toner needs higher temperature of above 320 degrees). edit: i tried soldering iron @450 degrees with the flat case (not the tip) which works even better than the clothes iron (max 360degrees)

[@Sekhar_Home]

You jave made complete scientific experiment...thanx

[@rogerwalter2500]

I use refilled toner for my canon lbp2900, works great. Good video

[@randomtronic]

Thanks!

[@SidneyCritic]

My old Canon LBP3000 used to lay down thicker toner than my new Brother HL-1110 set on max dark. You could actually feel it like Braille when you print with it. I think I will get rid of the HL-1110 and try refills for the LBP3000.

[@albyboy4278]

Use the sponge with a little water to remove the paper before immersing the copper in the acid. the toner will be more precise.

[@randomtronic]

I know what you mean, but I found that with this particular photo paper peeling off does just fine, and toner also pulls off a layer of plastic from the paper, thus making the mask stronger. But with different paper types I would definitely remove paper by wet method.

[@ModelMotorworks]

Hi, would you mind posting a pdf file in the description of the video of the PCB test pattern you used? I would love to try it out for myself. Anyways, nice experiment!

[@minkorrh]

Lots of discount places sell these cheap, monochrome laser printers. I picked up a Brother HL-L2360D for $75 CDN about three years ago.

[@JamesSleeman]

For those who think in mils for trace and space, 0.2mm is slightly less than 8mil

[@SS-mj2mq]

Ty for sharing and thank you for your time blessings brother 😁💯✌️

[@SidneyCritic]

There is a special yellow TT paper on Ebay, with a high gloss side, that works pretty good.

[@waynemcnab9496]

What laminator are you using, and what is the spec for max thickness. Most of the one I have seen talk about max of 0.01 to 0.02"

[@curtstacy779]

when you are cleaning the board before applying your resist. use just water, not acetone. and the resist will stick much better. more of your papers will work this way.

[@Plan-C]

nice. I have the same printer and use a clothes iron. Mixed results but I am pushing it a bit. I have found that cheap, yellow eBay toner transfer paper sometimes works and sometimes doesn't print correctly. Glossy junk mail is good if you don't go too fine with the traces. Which laminator are you using? Cheers

[@Edmorbus]

have fun with your new printer

[@randomtronic]

+Edmorbus thanks. I will use it and abuse it!

[@hackinblack7102]

thanks for the experiments youve done,to save others the trouble! was the poundland photo paper the stuff for inkjets; or does it say its for laser printers? photo paper is expensive here,and i dont want to trash my beloved old HP laserjet melting some in it! I have been playing about with toner transfer recently,but cannot stop the 'pin-holeing' with ANY of the papers i have tried ( shiny premium office paper,tracing paper,magazine pages ) it LOOKS good until you examine the print on a lightbox and see its grey rather than dense black.i'm using HP original toner.The best so far, for ease of removal from the copper, is the backing sheet for laser labels; it simply peels off once the copper has cooled down,with no scrubbing or soaking; and leaves just the toner,well stuck to the copper; i use the 'big brother' (A3 size) of the laminator you have, i found the rollers don't deflect as much at the gearbox end on the large model as they do on small one, which risks stripping the gear teeth when feeding normal PCB through it,and its heater output seems better too...though it takes about 20 minutes to get to temperature.it was sold under the 'staples' brand,sometimes also as a 'fellowes' they're identical hardware. pinholes though, curse me; i'm convinced its the printer not laying down enough toner (as there is nothing left on the sheet!) no matter what settings i choose in the software 8

[@randomtronic]

+Hack In Black thanks! The photo paper did not say specifically laser printer, just cheapest stuff out there. Did not seem to do any harm to the printer :)

[@randydireen3566]

Very awesome!

[@crispybacon501]

How many times did you put it through the laminator?

[@EJPARSONSUK]

Hi, love the video, very neat work! Was wondering what laminator do you use? I have just ordered a Brother laser printer, specifically for toner transfer, then saw all the negative comments on the internet; your video was a huge relief, many thanks!! I am going to be etching metals for jewellery making and will be using some intricate designs; I will therefore need good transfer of toner to the metal. I will experiment with paper but am also wondering if the laminator is important? Many thanks, Emma : )

[@randomtronic]

The laminator is the cheapest kind, nothing fancy. My one is old style generic WHSmith brand, but that is irrelevant. Only thing that matters is that the transfer paper and your work for between the rollers. For some laminators you may have to enlarge the gap in the casing, but in general, any will do. I suspect all the basic ones are exactly the same on the inside. Thanks and good luck with your jewelry making!

[@EJPARSONSUK]

randomtronic Thank you very much for that 😁 I have a very basic laminator ... will give it a try. I was wondering if a heat press machine would work?? My Brother laser printer has arrived ... can't wait to get stuck in!! Many thanks again, Emma 😊

[@TYGAMatt]

I bought a cheap Brother laser printer and a super cheap laminator. The laminator wasn't up to the job so I modified it with a half speed synchronous motor and also now control the temperature with an Arduino and two thermistors fixed to the laminator. It works well now. Just need to modify the gap between the rollers a little as I haven't done that yet and you can see the rollers bow a little

[@robinmorris3416]

I have had some success with a brother laser for toner transfer. However now I'm suffering from bad pitting. Not sure if brother toner or 3rd party toner is best so if you have any developments in this regard I'm sure the community will be interested.

[@randomtronic]

Hi, I am still on the original toner, but as soon as it is gone, I will be buying 3rd party replacements, so this will be a subject of a future video. If your printer does not print like it used to, perhaps it's time to change the drum? Or is it happening during transfer?

[@robinmorris3416]

randomtronic Ok so I have a 3rd party toner and the original brother toner that came with the printer. Neither of these are giving good results now but the original toner used to give excellent results. I've bought a new brother toner (£55!) which is arriving tonight so I'll update on the results when that arrives. Transfer is always 100% but the print has microholes which results in the pitting

[@robinmorris3416]

The brother toner gave flawless coverage and I've now successfully etched my board. It seems the problem was that the 3rd party toner (Cool Toner, ~£12) wasn't suitable. If you find a 3rd party toner that does work for ~10mil traces please let me know because £55 is a rip off.

[@randomtronic]

Robin Morris will do. i will be buying some cheap replacement when the one i got is finished.

[@johnpeck11]

Photo paper works quite well

[@Shadowman-in9zj]

What thickness of photo paper do you use?

[@johnpeck11]

I don't know. It's just hp photo card stock.

[@maxdurend4349]

how type of paper you use? How gramature? It's glossy paper? Thanks!

[@diyelectronics5375]

i have a brother laser printer same to you. i would like to ask you what kind of paper do you use? and where do you buy? can you send me a link?

[@oliebrien9349]

. Great presentation -Big Thanks I would like to know about the plastic bag you used for etching , and its 2 plastic sealing pieces. Where from I can buy one of those? Thanks again.

[@randomtronic]

+Olie Brien its called seno gs, look on ebay.

[@oliebrien9349]

. Thanks for your reply. Unfortunately this specific “seno gs” bag is not available on eBay. There are alternatives called Air tight silicon food storage bags from China. But I do not know if silicon material can be used with the Ferric Chloride etchant??

[@randomtronic]

Yes it can, silicone is fine, hdpe is fine too. Here is ebay link: rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F291550786896

[@jrb_sland5066]

I get good results using a Tupperware brand plastic sandwich box/container which has a nice air- and water-tight sealing lid. Pour about 1 cm thick layer of ferric chloride into the bottom of the container, drop in the card [circuit side up] replace the lid, and shake/rock gently for fast, even etching. Don't let the lid come off! Heating the etchant in a microwave oven to about 40 ~ 45 degC [with the card immersed if you like] will speed the etch. Remove the card, rinse in three waters, soak in a mild solution of baking soda [sodium bicarbonate] for a minute to neutralize any residual etchant, rinse in another couple of waters, and you are done. The etchant can stay in the container [close the lid tightly] until the next job. Tupperware is handy - for larger cards simply purchase a larger container. Glass containers with plastic lids also work well. I wouldn't use these containers for food once they have contained etchant...

[@g-tech9349]

Are they the same with hl-1110?

[@khalidsoomro4547]

can i use hp 1102 for this purpose mean pcb

[@mohamedalsada9122]

You are amazing.. what is the software you are using ?

[@randomtronic]

If you are referring to pcb software, it was kicad. Thanks :l

[@mohamedalsada9122]

Actually i was referring to the one you use to show and print the PCBs

[@sanjeevrao-xb4pk]

Can you tell which laminator you used .

[@randomtronic]

I don't know the name or brand (it might be WHSmiths one, but not sure) it's the most basic standard laminator type.

[@attilarivera]

I really ned a brother