Smyth Busters: Do You Have To Pin an AR-15 Gas Block?

[@jhalscott]

I mostly use BA Hanson barrels with matched pinned gas blocks. It’s reassuring. However, I have dozens of top tier guns without pinned gas blocks. None have ever had an issue. On builds that don’t have a pinned gas block I always dimple the barrel if I don’t pin. When given the option I’ll always choose pinned.

[@keefer88]

very happy with the hanson barrels as well

[@calicojack556]

I think this is good advice. If the block is already attached, or you have a drill press and the know-how, pinned is better. If you are not able to do a good pin job, then just get a dimple jig and go the set screw route. I don't like clamp-on blocks.

[@rifleshooterchannel208]

*top tier *unpinned gas block 😂

[@jhalscott]

@@rifleshooterchannel208yep. KAC, Noveske, Hodge, none of mine are factory pinned.

[@kevinhullinger8743]

I use same BA Hanson hard to beat!

[@jamierosengarten3263]

I absolutely loved the fact that you highly experienced individuals disagree, possibly coming from the stand point of Kaleb being a armorer for the military, if I'm correct in that, and Steve knowing that most private citizens will not need a rifle of the same rigidity that the military would. I always watch your videos and love the subjects that you discuss and cover!!!!!! To all the gentleman in the videos from Brownells, thank you very much!!!!!!!!!!

[@bradcampbell7253]

If only politics were this civil

[@archaicsage4803]

​@@bradcampbell7253In the early days of our nation there were even politicians who settled their differences with a duel... 😅 Kind of a long shot on that ever becoming a reality.

[@Gchang54]

But but I thought milspac was lower quality than my wrecky build😂

[@tjc20]

I've never had issue with either method. The last Noveske barrel I used to complete an upper came with a pinned gas block, which makes it seem like a tank; however, I don't think it's necessary to go through the trouble for most shooters. Even in a self-defense situation, if you have an "un-pinned", well-built AR, there's virtually zero reason to worry. The only time I've seen gas blocks fail is after like 400 consecutive rounds in burn-down testing. If you're firing that many rounds, in quick succession, may God help you because that firearm will probably outlast any of us in that situation.

[@SlickSlack4pac]

Stainless or CHF barrel? Just installed a Noveske CHF barrel and was wondering about accuracy. I had to freeze my pin before punching it through the gas block.

[@tjc20]

@@SlickSlack4pac "Noveske 13.7" Infidel 5.56mm Stainless", so I doubt my results would be relevant to your use. Good luck, sir.

[@hairydogstail]

I have never seen a screw gas block come loose, when properly dimpled, Rocksett was applied to the properly torqued screws and green Loctite 620 was applied to the barrel journal under the gas block...In fact it takes some effort to remove these gas blocks. I have seen pinned gas blocks effect accuracy, which is why I will only pin gas blocks if the owner request it...

[@burtlandcastor8359]

What effects on accuracy from pinning did you see? How did you confirm the accuracy issues were due to the pinning?

[@hairydogstail]

@@burtlandcastor8359 I had a BCM BFH barrel that grouped horribly after I had pinned it. It was one of my most accurate barrels when I had only used the set screws..I have also had other gunsmiths verify this to me through the years.. Most precision shooters will use the clamp on gas block...

[@burtlandcastor8359]

@@hairydogstail There were likely other factors involved in your loss of accuracy. What else was changed when you pinned the gas block? How was it done? Who did the work?

[@hairydogstail]

@@burtlandcastor8359 I did the work, I did it with a mill and jig..It was the same gas block I had mounted and I drilled and reamed the gas blcok to set the pin...I have done many of them, but I do not recommend them for precision shooting.. Set screw gas blocks will also effect accuracy on a thin barrel and if the set screws are over torqued. Even muzzle devices will effect accuracy if over torqued.. This is not my first rodeo...

[@burtlandcastor8359]

@@hairydogstail How much accuracy was lost? What did it print prior to and after pinning? I don't doubt there was a change but I've never seen a significant change from pinning an existing gas block to a barrel - so long as it was done well. I'm not discounting what you had happen, nor your experience - I am just very surprised that you had a noticeable loss of accuracy. Was anything else done at the time of pinning?

[@christopherpeppers278]

I remember seeing a Mr Guns N Gear video years ago on the topic. His opinion, which I kind of agree with, is that pinning, set screws, clamps… are just to hold the gas block in place until you shoot your gun enough to carbon lock the gas block to the barrel.

[@BruceCross]

Interesting, I hadn't heard that before.

[@richardturk7162]

Always pinned mine, then used a set screw kind and dimpled the barrel and that worked fine too. The only problem is getting the set screws tight enough without stripping the head of the set screw.

[@vic2796]

Yup I red loctite them all in and torque them as tight as possible without hurting anything. I’ve failed a couple times and went over board lol I still red loctite and monkey tight

[@kansasgardener5844]

I definitely vote for the red suspenders!

[@robviousobviously5757]

one red one green.. lol

[@RobinP556]

Belts & suspenders, love it! I build my own ARs, but I have a bunch of training and a machine shop in my house, so I pin them all. It’s a quick setup after it’s been done a few times. But to be honest, at 60 years of age I’m not running and gunning anymore, so set screws would probably be fine, I’m just a bit OCD and since I have the tools I might as well use them.

[@miguelolmedo9178]

I wish you were my neighbor 😅 last time I shot one of my ARs, my gas block came loose and jammed up my rifle. Found out my screws were loose as they were not factory pinned. I don't want to risk doing it myself so I just tightened them back up.

[@jhutch1470]

@@miguelolmedo9178 I have an SLR dimple jig for my barrel profile. It only took me a couple of minutes, and was super easy. If you want, just dimple the rear screw, the one directly under the gas port, so you can run other gas blocks with different spacings in the future.

[@GrippinTheGauge206]

Working with guns for quite a while now I’ve seen enough things come loose and fall out to know the strongest possible way to secure something is preferable. Lots of guys who build their ARs don’t do anything to secure the gas block at all, no dimple, just set screws. Same thing with the castle nut not being staked. Most of the time they say things like “I’ve built 5 of them.” Or “I mean why would I pin it/stake it, It’s not going anywhere” these are quick ways to tell whether the person you’re dealing with actually trains and shoots their guns or not.

[@grben9959]

I always stake the gas key, but not the castle nut. The castle nut is right where you can see and feel if it is getting loose. I'm seldom putting more than 100 rounds through the gun at a time and will be able to fix it before it becomes an issue. I'd stake it on a trunk gun that's going to bang around unobserved and needs to be ready when you get it out or if I was carrying the thing for a living because it is more secure, but it really isn't necessary for almost all users. The funny one to me is people who go to the effort to doing everything the most secure way when building a gun and mount sights with thumbscrew bases.

[@brianbeauchaine2597]

While I agree that the strongest way to secure it is preferable, I’ve put a lot of rounds down range and not had any issues with my gas blocks that are held by set screws. Of course now that I say that, next time I go to the range I’m certain to have it happen!

[@patricklozito7042]

What I have done for years is to order the barrel with a standard military front sight installed and cut off the top portion of the sight, grind the contour on the belt sander (or by hand if I didn't have a belt sander available) and, there you go, a low profile, pinned gas block. For clamp on blocks, I put a little medium or coarse lapping compound on the lower 2/3 of the barrel where the gas block will clamp, avoiding the top area where the gas port is, and torque the screws down and haven't had one budge yet. And, yes, I always dimple a set screw type but only the one in line with the gas port.

[@dennisdain987]

This is my first AR and it came with the tall front sight. But I want to add a full handguard. I like your idea of cutting off the top portion. I am seriously considering this idea.

[@patricklozito7042]

@@dennisdain987 It would work quite well. If this would be your first time working with metal cutting, shaping and finishing, I would seek out someone that has as it is very easy to slip with a saw and mark up the barrel. You must have a good vise, sharp metal saw, good files and abrasive paper for final finishing. Also you do not want to remove any metal where the gas tube fits. Wrap a few turns of duct tape around the barrel directly in front of and behind the sight to protect the barrel if you slip.

[@dennisdain987]

@@patricklozito7042 Thanks for the tips. Fortunately, I am quite handy and not afraid to try most anything. I watched a few other videos of guys actually doing it and I don't see a problem. I'll wait till buy the new handguard then go for it.

[@patricklozito7042]

@@dennisdain987 That's great! I never know how skilled a person may be so I always err on the side of caution. You can do a search for a picture of an old Bushmaster Varmint barrel and you'll see what it should look like when you're done. Enjoy!

[@bishop0001]

No need to pin. Dimpled set screws under a hand guard aren’t going anywhere… little Rocksett or proper Loctite and you are fine.

[@jhh600]

Ok bishop . Let’s take ur word . 🤡

[@bishop0001]

@@jhh600 schmuck, they asked for what people think on the subject and a scan will show loads of people who agree with me.

[@jhh600]

@@bishop0001 🤣 u and all 8

[@bishop0001]

@@jhh600 guess we can add “inability to count” to your bio.

[@GodGunsGills]

​@jhh600 way more than 8 you @$$hole

[@michaelellis5930]

I totally agree with the idea that if the gas block is under the handguard and properly installed, with barrel dimples and/or proper torque, then pinning it is unnecessary. If I had a block that incorporated a rail or front sight ahead of the handguard, then I'd probably get it properly pinned.

[@zaffdos]

If mine comes cut for a pin, i pin it. If not, retention screws haven’t failed me yet

[@jhh600]

Wow u been to war , ur local range is proud 🤣🤡

[@zaffdos]

@@jhh600 I hope replying to week old KZbin comments brings you great peace and joy, have a lovely day

[@herknorth8691]

Pinned is best for durability and reliability. Next best is probably a properly dimpled barrel (I use the SLR Rifleworks dimpling jig) with staked set screws. One of the biggest problems I see with home built uppers is that gas block coming loose. Fortunately, it's usually an easy (or at least simple) fix.

[@geofftimm2291]

One of the biggest PITAs in the US Army was troops and/or their Drill Sergeants, exceeding their level of maintenance and using a hammer and punch to drive out the Front Sight/Gas Block Pins. Geoff Who was a Small Arms Repairman lo these many years agone.

[@fook-joby-den6172]

While pinning & set screws are ideal…. If dual dimple barrel, use knurled set screws, a dab of rockset & torque to 25-30in Lbs, I’ve had no issues. When I say, “no issues” I stress test my rifles with 18 std capacity mags(ruffly 500rounds) & employ them in 10min or less. If I have more than one malfunction in that time frame or cannot finish all 500 rounds, then it’s a fail. If not it’s a pass & it’s gtg. Now, this isn’t meant to be realistic but stress the weapon to 2/3rds to 3/4rd of its consecutive round count in order to bring any potential issues out so they can be addressed in a controlled environment & not lead to a failure when your relying on that weapon to preserve your life. It’s not an exact science just my personal way of vetting my defensive weapons based off borrowing the concept.

[@masonjohns208]

I'm with Steve on this one! If it's under a handguard it's pretty well protected and doesn't need to be pinned

[@tazerface8659]

It will still fail before a pinned gas block will

[@masonjohns208]

@@tazerface8659 pinned is definitely better. But not always necessary

[@2a4life81]

You gentlemen both make great points. I can not disagree with either of you based on the validity of said opinions. The apparent banter between one another brings me both a smile and laughter. Keep up the great work guys!!!

[@sfcbamf9249]

I really like the HM Defense monobloc method. Have the gas block machined right from the barrel steel, all one piece.

[@dfl19034]

Thanks for the tip about HM Defense. I just spoke with Clay and ordered their 556-L upper (it even comes with their bolt).

[@joetompkinsAaRdVArK7]

Pin whenever you can, gas blocks like the TRIARC easy pin make this task more easily accomplished.

[@ToastbackWhale]

Faxon makes barrels already milled for pinned gas blocks, they send the gas block with the rifle, and they use straight roll pins (also included). Makes it pretty simple to get a pinned block tbh.

[@daxnightingale6214]

Thank you guys for putting these videos together. I really appreciate the wisdom you guys share.

[@TheBigdutchster]

I built a black rifle with parts mainly sourced from Brownells and pinned my own gas block. Everything fit like it should.

[@danliberty734]

I’ve got mine attached with a set screw into a dimple and lock-tite to keep the screw in place. Rockset is another good choice.

[@marine6680]

There are steps you can take to make a set screw type block just as rock solid as pinned. BCM does this… They use a compound designed to retain sleeves and bearings in place on a shaft. I believe it is called retaining compound. They make high temp versions of the stuff, and it is no joke. I have needed to remove one, and it was a PitA. That was on a used rifle as well, so it held up to the heat of use. MrGunsngear has a video of him needing to remove one, and he had to hold a torch to the block for a couple minutes or so. Those blocks are not going anywhere. Especially if combined with a super high temp thread locker on the set screws. (Those types can handle over 1000 deg) Now, if you are installing a FSB then I say pin it. Those are sticking out and exposed, so the extra security of pins may be worthwhile. I am not a fan of the clamp on type blocks.

[@hairydogstail]

Green loctite 620 does this..

[@innercityprepper]

Check Smythbusters' episode on using locking compounds on guns :)

[@marine6680]

@@innercityprepper I have seen it… My opinion… Use it where it makes sense and use it properly. Too many use it where they should not, and/or do not use it correctly and that will cause problems. I am going to use blue on my scope mounts, and I am going to use high temp on my gas block set screws, and I mean the high temp over 1000* stuff. That ain’t stopping. BCM has used their technique for a while, and it has not been a problem, and it is highly effective. It’s basically as secure as a pinned gas block.

[@hairydogstail]

@@marine6680 Yup!

[@user-vv7fc4sj1r]

Came here to find this comment

[@fireantfury2539]

I'm a home builder who's been learning the gunsmith trade all my life and how I do it, I dimple the barrel and just use the set screws as opposed to pinning. Though I'm not military, my ARs get tossed around, worked, and abused to test how ruged they are after they're built and/or bought and I adjust accordingly. I've never felt a need to pin my gas block. If you're using a gas block with set screws and dimple the barrel. I found its sufficient enough to not come loose.

[@airborneivan]

I like having them pinned if the option is there but I like set screws due to the ease of remove and modularity. I always dimple the barrel if not already dimpled. This is a must. I always replaces the set screws with Prime Line black oxide steel set screws. They are longer and have a deeper allen head pocket so they don't strip. Stainless steel set screws strip too easily. Threads and journal have to be thoroughly degreased for proper adhesion. Lastly, I install them with Rocksett and torque them to 30 in-lbs. Prefer Rocksett because of its strength and it won't melt or loosen with heat. I have yet to have a gas block or any set screw come loose during any hard use, suppressed or unsuppressed.

[@pauldeahl3980]

If the barrel is dimpled, blue loctite applied, and careful attention to not over torque, then set screws are perfectly fine in my experience.

[@Ripper13F1V]

THIS, in spades. It will hold up to hard use with proper loctite and torque values.

[@LîNkxUSMC]

For gas block set screws blue locktite isnt going to cut it as the gas block will greatly exceed blues temperature threshold. For set screws on the gas block rockset is what you want.

[@didamnesia3575]

@@LîNkxUSMC blue doesn't release on temperature. It isn't a temp release product at these levels. You don't need red.

[@LîNkxUSMC]

@@didamnesia3575 blue will melt away and become virtually useless. Depending on rate of fire, it will also exceed reds temperature rating as well but either way red has too high of a torque value for set screws, hence why i didnt suggest that either. Rockset is the way. Extremely high temperature rating and minimal torque required to remove.

[@didamnesia3575]

@@LîNkxUSMC 👍 I'll give it a try. I appreciate your opinion and help looking out. Noticed it being recommended quite a bit in the comments section. I've had good luck with purple as a general usage product for handstops and holster screws, knows for projects. They all have their uses.

[@03redrubi]

IDK. However, I do agree on the red suspenders!!!

[@roberteidsmoe8573]

If using set screws I take a Dremel and make a deeper dimple to help anchor the set screws. Add some Loctite Red to keep in place. Has worked for me for my home built ARs

[@alexv6324]

As a hobbyist builder. I've put together about 6 rifles now and two of them have had pinned blocks. I prefer them now and will go with that option whenever I can. While I think a non pinned block is perfectly fine for a light use rifle or where you know you're going to be switching out barrels often, I just prefer knowing that my block is correctly aligned and won't budge. I don't usually change barrels anyways, I just start a new build lol.

[@MrAlexthemachine]

I have a rock river arms elite operator bought in 2011 and sometime in 2017 after many range trips went to clean the rifle and the clamp gas block literally slid off. After that everything was pinned.

[@leanhard1987]

I'm a huge proponent of the pinned gas block. In my eyes if it's not secured by a pin, it ain't duty grade.

[@aahhronismyname8068]

I have clamp on style. Never once came off. Using red loctite too just to be sure. I also got BCM upper and a couple spikes with pinned a2 sights. No problems on all my ar15s. But you are correct, pinning is the bomb proof way to go. The barrel steel preventing it from moving will be stronger than any screw used, within reason.

[@Adam-su2jj]

Not sure if you guys remember, but you sell all the stuff you need to do it with. Shopping Brownells makes it kinda easy.

[@DavidMishchukDM]

One of these days, Steve isn't gonna let Caleb off so easy.

[@grunt167]

I normally use gas blocks with set screws, so I dimple the barrel and use Rockset to secure the set screws.

[@IdeaCalledFreedom]

If it’s an AR that is or may be needed/used for serious use (I.e. home and community defense, law enforcement, military, heavy training schedules, etc) then it definitely needs to be pinned. Non-pinned gas blocks don’t come loose from banging around, they come loose from shooting. Screws vibrate loose and the pressure of the gas over and over again can push the gas block forward. We see this all the time with home builds.

[@austindecker7643]

I’ve put thousands of rounds through my builds and my set screws have never come loose

[@Enjoyer.762]

If you want to ensure there no chance of a low profile gas seat working loose, pinning against the barrel is typically the best method. The next best method is a dimpled barrel for set screws and high temp thread locker. Brownell's has the jigs for drilling and pinning and for set screw barrel dimpling. Many manufacturers offer AR barrels for sale with pre-installed low profile gas seats that are either pin or secured by sets screws or even simultaneously both. That's probably the way to go for most consumers. Gunsmiths can also install a pinned low profile gas seat so that's an option for consumers who aren't interested in buying a drill press and the jigs to do it themselves. If one isn't going to be building many ARs for hard use or serious use (competitive use, civilian self-defense, LE / military use - armorers), a budget clamped-on gas seat probably isn't going to be an issue for a recreational shooter or hunter. High-end companies like KAC and LMT which use proprietary barrels include proprietary gas systems. KAC uses a (Knights Armament Mod 2 system) uses a proprietary castle nut system and straight gas tube. LMT uses a pressfit and pinned system including a straight gas tube.

[@theairwaybat1830]

Always look forward for another episode of smythbusters

[@wannabecarguy]

Any time I saw an ar fail to cycle,it was because the gas block moving. Maybe from assembly or it came lose not sure. But I personally have never had one come lose. I also don't shoot often.

[@5thBeatle]

While pinning is the most secure method, a good clamp-on block is very good as well due to the amount of surface area in contact with the barrel. There is so much friction that trying to turn a gas block that's clamped on the barrel can cause the barrel extension pin to shear. I'm not a fan of set screws for this same reason. Tightening a set screw actually creates a gap and reduces the surface area in contact with the barrel. I would only use a set screw in a dimpled barrel.

[@pcpolice7937]

Belts and Suspenders! Perry suspenders to hold that heavy belt up. Come in all sorts of colors , fully adjustable, and easy to hook on and off. Great combo with Kore or your favorite gun belt. Perry has heavy duty suspenders too that can easily handle 4 or more lbs

[@bev8200]

Yes you have to pin it. It will work without it but if you use it a lot it will come lose after a some time. I’ve seen them fly off but it can’t get past the flash hider

[@dgax65]

Pinning will undoubtedly secure the gas block, but set screws on a dimpled barrel are completely adequate for most use cases. If you make a habit of regularly cleaning and inspecting your weapons you should be able to catch any set screws that are backing out or pins that are drifting out.

[@markbell6864]

I have the Geissele Super Gas Block and since I have a drill press, I took the extra step to pin it for like you and Geissele said, BOMBPROOF installation. I am not sure if it is necessary, but it pinned I know for sure it's not going anywhere.

[@Lazy-Gator]

When I worked for a manufacturer and we had LEO bids come in. And alot of them, not all, had requested pinned gasblocks. This was because they said that they had guns fail after set screws loosened under heavy sustained fire. So I would say if it is a duty gun for hard use Pin it to be safe. If it is one being shot every couple of months, get whatever as it should be fine. And if you are using a barrel with just set screws I highly suggest the barrel have at least one dimple preferably two.

[@1life2pono]

I bought a POF Minuteman AR pistol, then I wanted to add a can and the POF Dictator adjustable gas block and have it pinned. There's not 1 single gunsmith in my town that could machine my barrel to pin my gb. I got ahold of POF and they said "send us your upper and we'll take care it". I couldn't believe it! All I had to do is pay for shipping one way. Those guys are awesome.

[@jimiandersonblackknight7554]

Red suspenders aside LOL mine are red white and blue! I would say definitely pin your gas block every time, unless it is physically impossible to do. This is from experience and a gas block coming loose while shooting. It caused a miss cycle, did not deliver enough gas for a full cycle two or three rounds before I noticed it was the setscrew gas block. Luckily I had one requiring a pin in the range box of tools so I simply swapped out the gas blocks put the pin in and have now fired well over 5000 rounds out of that gun. Yes I will pay a few bucks extra if needed when purchasing a new barrel to insure I can pin the gas block. Once you’ve been there and done that and had it filled, if you’re like me you never make the same mistake twice

[@scubasleeve3497]

Pinning is the "best/most secure" method and it makes sense that that's what was done when you have a front sight that's part of the gas block and it's sticking way up above the barrel and could get knocked around. On an AR with a low profile gas block under a free float handguard it's unnecessary overkill.

[@TheLoneRanger745]

I changed the hand guard on my S&W M&P sport ll too a 15" STNGR with it came a set screw low profile gas block , the problem, the rear set screw landed on most of the cross pin stake hole it was going to be useless , ,so I took the die grinder and trimmed off the A 2 sight making it a clean low profile gas block using the original cross pin stake holes , it's factory , clean and we know it's reliable .

[@markgualtieri2264]

I'm going with Caleb on this one, both of you gentlemen are a wealth of information keep making videos.

[@Stonecon]

Im new to the AR platform and love these videos. These guys are always drinking coffee so this can easily be my new "morning show" 😂 Good bye "good morning America " hello Brownell's

[@guyaustin9]

No pin alternative method is done properly

[@x-calibearusallc]

I’m a traditionalist, however a properly fitted gas block with dimple(s) and set screws are very adequate. Use of a proper thread locking compound is important. Rocksett!

[@agentmuzz]

I can tell you from being a mechanic for over 30 years that a properly torqued and Loctited fastener isn't going anywhere. If you are abusing your rifle to the point you need to pin the gas block to prevent it from moving, then you will most likely have other failures are well.

[@556online]

This is a statement I agree with 100%. It’s possible to lose accuracy with pinning the gas block as well. Criterion, one of the best barrel makers out there said it can cause hot spots causing an MOA rifle to go to 2 or 3 MOA. Steve also touched on an important point. Rifles with FSB/gas blocks are exposed. Pinning helps there especially with how rough soldiers are throwing their rifles around. Now with free floating hand guards protecting the gas block, there is really no need to.

[@1BigBen]

Mister Caleb with red suspenders, that works better than a red jacket 😁

[@joewho4339]

Does a pinned gas block change the harmonics of the barrel to the extent that it will have a negative impact on accuracy?

[@colterodell1851]

Yeah pinned for me. Good barrels with pinned gas blocks included are abundant and inexpensive so if I'm doing the assembly anyway, then there's just no reason not to.

[@methylmania]

Eugene Stoner was a damned genius. One thing You will notice about the AR-15 is the absence of allot of screws. There is essentially 3 screws on the whole rifle. Two on the gas key and the other holding on the pistol grip. One can't help but think if Stoner had access to modern machine tooling and cnc machine tool paths He would have machined the gas key into the BCG. Screws suck on any machine as they introduce a failure point.

[@rifleshooterchannel208]

They gas key is a wear part, the bolt carrier is not. I think a non replaceable gas key is kind of a disadvantage.

[@LibertyFromLead]

SHTF/ Go rifle I'd pin bc no worries. Set screws with dimpled barrels are good to go from what I've experienced, even for heavy often use. Especially if on something you may tinker with and change up. Edited to add: Double check tight when doing normal confirming maintenance. Just to make sure. Especially if for whatever reason didn't dimple your barrel for set screws or if running clamp style block. Appreciate the videos Brownell's 🐍🇺🇸

[@Broman-es4sx]

Definitely pinned but I agree with Caleb on the modularity part, it makes it so easy to assemble one with a set screw and a dimpled barrel , but a pinned locked in gas system is bomb proof, like he said. Can’t go wrong with pinning it .

[@Logan-mr4xg]

Set screw gas block with one or both dimples and use rocksett on the set screws!

[@bigbeaver]

Brownells 1939-2024 RIP...We will miss you !!! Corn by one's onw bushel.

[@TwoStageTrigger]

I dont think its necessary, but it does make it a lot more reliable. As long as you get it pinned on straight. Got an at kit from psa. Rear aperture sight was all the way to the left and it still wasn't shooting center. The front sight was pinned on crooked, and I had to modify my receiver to straighten it out.

[@GunsNBBQ]

We will be waiting to see them Red suspenders Caleb

[@manuelmorales5729]

In my opinion it depends. If you have a rifle you take out and put 100-200 rounds on a range session then set screwed is fine. If your into high rate of fire or full auto then pinned is the way to go

[@longhunter5520]

The main difference between the pinned and un pinned gas blocks is that bayonet lug. That lug is the anchor for the pokey thing. No alignment pins and you risk tweaking or outright disassembling your gas system when using and or removing the bayonet. Also forgot that the A frame for the front sight is pretty important as well. I personally don't want that held on to hot barrel with set screws.

[@robertcaccavalla6469]

No need to pin for most. They are made of light alloy and not stronger steel as a military weapon. However for rough duty it would have more strength. Most people will never know the difference. Might be better off keeping it standard military configuration if you believe the durability is needed.

[@The10thManRules]

Your first sentence is BS. What component between the barrel, gas block, and pin is alloy on an AR15? A modern AR15 is materially identical to a military Mk18/M4/M16. That is to day, everything on a milspec firearm is steel in that area. A pinned gas block is a manufacturer choice. For example, Ballistic Advantage offers pin-able barrels and gas blocks. When you buy a barrel with an installed gas block, it's likely pinned.

[@trumpwon20204]

Would have to see a test to failure before i decide. 2 set screws with locktite torqued properly offer 2 points of clamp where the roll pin offers 1 point. As far as surface area the set screws touch more of the barrel. Roll pins are cheaper and for mass production

[@burtlandcastor8359]

Roll pins are not usually used for gas blocks. Taper pins are the common type used. Taper pins create an indexed mechanical lock between the two parts that are pinned together. Set screws, even with a threadlocker are inferior in clamping force and index retention.

[@rifleshooterchannel208]

Yep, roll pinned is fake pinned. I actually prefer dowel pins to taper pins but either is fine and superior to roll and coil pins and vastly superior to glued screws only.

[@BLUELEADER78]

2:26 to 2:37 has to be my favorite part of any of these videos.

[@mikebabb2155]

I will agree that you do not have to pin the gas block on. Granted I did and prefer to do so even though it is much more work but it is worth it because it is not going to easily come off. Keep in mind that most people including myself will probably be fine using some high heat loctite to keep the set screw in place or to keep the screws on a clamp on gas block in place.

[@mattfleming86]

Clamp on over loctite bearing retainer, and a little rocksett on the screws. Try to remove one and you'll appreciate that it's not going anywhere. I also stake the screws on gas blocks that are suitable for it. Secure is secure, and more than one way to get there.

[@ethan5.56]

I've been wanting to do a build with an F marked front sight gas block but not looking forward to drilling and reaming everything for the taper pins. Great video as always

[@chitownbangin]

Great videos from Brownells as usual!

[@thomasrouh2258]

Depending on the barrel.....Dimple and pin... You don't have to taper pin.....3/32 with a quality coil is more than sufficient.....I do believe a forward assist Mil-Sec is the correct size with 3/32 straight hole.....5/32 taper....I've done them every single way depending on the build....

[@ThePatriotParadox]

With a smooth bore shotgun I use a modified choke for turkey even buckshot... But what about running like rifled slugs.... Should do a video all on what to run and when.. plus when you need to use what kinda choke..... I think people would like to see it.

[@spilledmilk9000]

I'm having difficulty finding tools that would allow me to put an A2 front sight post on a virgin barrel. I suspect there's a jig out there to start the process but when i look i come up empty.

[@johnaustin6673]

this is a link to taper pin reamer

[@toynazi]

SLR dimpling jig.

[@jhutch1470]

Whoa, whoa, whoa there Caleb. You have to wear one red suspender, and one green suspender. There is no other way.

[@ETHRON1]

Personally I use a "tiny" drope of vibra-tite (a form of red loktite) on each side of the barrel then slide the gasblock over it and tighten it down...have never had an issue. Also put a dab on the set screws before I tighten them. Have to work quickly. .

[@JTheraos]

Just remember, red vibratite is the equivalent of blue loctite.

[@chipsterb4946]

I agree with Steve. When there’s an exposed sight integral to the gas block providing a perfect lever if the weapon is dropped, pin it. However, if the gas block is protected by the hand guard, I see no reason to risk degrading accuracy by milling a new hole across the barrel and relatively close to the bore.

[@ETHRON1]

I understand the basis for it but most people are not set up or capable of doing it.

[@natemel12]

Gas blocks need to be either pinned or at least dimpled for the set screw

[@BrassCatcher]

Can you stake a gas block screw? I’ve always used a drop of red on my set screws but a stake isn’t going to be effected by heat nearly as much.

[@bradbolluyt9569]

I've seen people do it on the AR forums, it looks like it'd be hard to undo if you ever want to and you'll need to replace the gas block after most likely

[@hairydogstail]

Yes, but I would recommend Rocksett over any red or blue thread locker. Heat will not effect Rocksett as it will the other thread lockers..

[@sixoffive]

I’ve heard of it, don’t know how well it works. If screw loosen you have a reference point? Screw, stake, pin, and some red not going anywhere.

[@rifleshooterchannel208]

@@sixoffive Staking is a fair compromise. Though it is easier to mess up staking it properly and have it not even work than it is to simply pin it from the start. Lack of GB pinning is indicative of low experience level or lack of serious attention to detail. You might not feel comfortable pinning it yourself and that is fine, but anyone trying to profit off of you by offering you a barrel, GB, or whole rifle and telling you it being unpinned is fine is someone who is trying to rip you off and play you for a fool. Happy Pride Month to all those people out there with unpinned gas blocks 🤣

[@lindeleasley]

I took off a pinned gas block (A2 type) and installed a low profile clamp-on so I could install a free-floating hand guard.

[@staycalmkiller2026]

Ok still looking for the how to pin video, and upgrade to to adjustable video

[@leethomas556]

Done properly, set screws are solid enough

[@jetdr]

Have 1 pinned, 1 not, not are used and abused and both still perfect after many many rds! If it has been machines for a pin use it, if not don’t worry about it!

[@Murderface666]

Since I dont have any select fire rifles, I dont think pinning is necessary. Just some loctite and torque has been good enough for my barrels for years.

[@righteousone8454]

I pin all my gas blocks by drilling the .9-.12" dent into the barrel. I had gas block walk on me plenty of times without it. Got tired of fixing it

[@sallyann8971]

dust double dimple your barrel. then send those dimples a few thousand deeper. I mean it is 3/4" few more thousand won't hurt. and finish with rockset. I'm struggling now with one I did that I can't get apart

[@andyd2960]

I've got both and haven't had any issues with either one. That's not to say that I never will.

[@ryand8024]

I got both, but if I do use set screws I always use a little loctite

[@johnmollet2637]

I have no vote on the gas block but Caleb definitely needs a set of Red/Green suspenders.

[@jasonrichardson9260]

Never pinned one ,never had a single issue either. Built them for years. Blue loctite on the dimple screw and no problems ever...

[@edreyes1391]

I really enjoy your production.

[@AdamJohnson-dr2ri]

Has any manufacturer silver soldered, braised, or welded an AR gas block successfully? I’m assuming if you weld anything on a barrel you’d have to heat treat it after to fix the heat affected zone, plus overboring and prob machining the outer for looks after welding which may warp the barrel(point being welding prob isn’t a cost effective method but would be more “bulletproof” than pins in my opinion).

[@tomjones5418]

Original design considerations included full auto fire. That's a huge difference. You don't need to pin a semi auto 223. Are all your rifles all pinned together or falling apart? Probably not. I have lots of screws holding lots of parts on to lots of firearms just fine. They always have. Pinning is stronger but what if you need to change your barrel or block in the field and you don't have punches, a drill, a mallet, a reamer... I need an Allen wrench and channel locks or a small pipe wrench to swap barrels. They both have their good points.

[@kotcher69]

Shouldnt need to change a barrel in the field, even in the marines there was no need, we were taught to treat our rifles well.

[@tomjones5418]

@@kotcher69 completely irrelevant comparison.

[@godsdozer]

I use Elmers glue to keep mine on nice and tight.

[@kotcher69]

Seems to me if your not going to remove the gas block ,after using the set screws just stake them so they cant back out,