BSA Gold Star 250 SS (B25SS) - Sidepanel Paint - By A Moron - Part 1

As we can't get any response from professional painters, let's do it ourselves starting with the B25SS and then in the future the B50SS. I used to do all my own painting years ago with rattle cans so why not again? What could possibly go wrong? Let's get going following the previous Intro video.
Oh and this video capture didn't begin on the 22nd June - that's today when publishing! Derrrrrr.
Channel email: [e-mail]
T's and other parts: www.ebay.co.uk/usr/bsatriumph
#BSAGoldStar
#BSAB25SS
#birminghamsmallarms

[@philmuskett265]

Mate, your patience and attention to detail are legendary!!!

[@BSAPowerSet]

Cheers Phil - it’s taken years of practice looking at a lump hammer.

[@andrewwalker8640]

I'm almost relieved to see I am not the only one who has trouble with paint jobs! I have had to paint things twice countless times due to mistakes. At least you are nearly there in the end!

[@BSAPowerSet]

Well it depends upon the definition of “nearly” Andrew but the end of this sidepanel is in sight. Before the other four items. It is rewarding though that we seem to be recreating the correct finish.

[@alexanderpotts7308]

Angus, when doing these spray jobs always leave at least 24 hours after spraying for the paint or filler to dry as that prevents sagging. The thicker the coat, the longer you need for it to dry. Panels like that I generally leave for two or three days just to be on the safe side

[@BSAPowerSet]

Hi Alexander. Thanks for the advice - I normally do leave for at least 24 hours but was hasty on the first occasion as I damaged the surface when preventing the panel from falling to the floor and was trying to dress the surface to save it but it was always a lost cause - start again! Thanks for the interest and comment.

[@waltcrawford6153]

A couple of ideas that might help with your painting: A: Use a guide or color coat to help when you are block sanding the part. A guide coat is a light coat of paint in a contrasting color to the filler coat. After the initial block sanding the low spots will still have the guide coat on them. Keep sanding until you either eliminate all the guide coat or you start to cut through the filler coat. If you cut through the filler coat you need to spray another filler coat and repeat the process. This is faster and will give you better results. B: Use the masking tape trick to remove wet paint blemishes. You make a ring with the adhesive side of the tape facing out. Then you touch the tape to the wet paint and remove the blemish. This would work on the paint spatters you have and it works on runs. Hope this helps.

[@BSAPowerSet]

Hi Walt -thanks for the interest and comment. Appreciate the tips which we can use on the next panel. I’ve heard of the guide coat process but not the masking tips trick - that might be a game changer. Thanks again and yes very helpful.

[@ashleyderrick6202]

I feel your pain with the paint spluttering right at the end. EXACTLY the same happened to me with rattle cans from the same company's products on a Honda side panel. So annoying and morale deflating, right at the end of a what should potentially have been a perfect finish. It turned out they sent me WB (water based) paint. It was definitely the quality of the rattle can, as the first can they supplied sprayed out OK. I contacted them and they sent me a couple of spare nozzles, told me to heat the can in hot water (which I had done already) and agreed to supply another can if I bought another can. All in all, not impressed, so I switched to their COB (clear over base) solvent version and that went on a lot better without spluttering. I have to say that for other bikes I have used custom mixed aerosols from Paints4U in Grimsby at about half the cost and got a super finish with those. For clear-coat I use 2K-in-a-can Spraymax Gloss (German) and this product is absolutely superb ... as good as my Devilbiss mini-gun finish. Contains isocyanate though, so you need an air fed mask plus you have to use the can after mixing within a few hours. The spray pattern, finish and delivery right to the end of the can is awesome.

[@BSAPowerSet]

Thanks for the interest, comment and anecdote Ashley and for sharing your experiences with technique and product - appreciated. Indeed it can be so frustrating but you’ve got to bite your lip, be patient, and start all over again! We both got there in the end. More to do though so let’s see how that goes.

[@ashleyderrick6202]

@@BSAPowerSet Love your videos Angus. You would probably ask why a bloke with loads of Hondas would be so interested and subscriber. Fact is that I have five Honda '68 - '71 CB250/350 K0/K2's but the Bandit & Fury have always absolutely fascinated me, so much more advanced than anything on offer from Britain in the small capacity stakes. ... they came so close to being a serious contender to my bikes. If they had ever reached proper production it would definitely be a machine in my stable today.

[@BSAPowerSet]

@@ashleyderrick6202Many thanks Ashley. I began with a Honda CD175A and my brother had a 250 K4 so we have a soft spot for early 70s Honda’s too. Later he had a Black Bomber - great bike. It would have been interesting to see how the Fury would have fared against the CB/CL 350 but it was not to be.

[@ashleyderrick6202]

​@@BSAPowerSetha ha .. I also have a '67 Bomber and the '67 Honda UK press bike CD175A sloper.

[@BSAPowerSet]

@@ashleyderrick6202👍 nice one Ashley. I passed my test on the CD sloper having paid £30 for it and putting it back on the road.

[@54macdog]

What a job!

[@BSAPowerSet]

Especially when a fat fingered moron is involved. We are getting there. Repeat after me.

[@54macdog]

@@BSAPowerSet You have set the bar very high for yourself. I'd have binned it or sent it away to be chromed. Your dedication to originality is very impressive and your patience is off the scale. Best wishes.

[@BSAPowerSet]

@@54macdog Thanks Mac - most kind and the interest and interaction is appreciated.

[@Cobra427Veight]

Have you tried that Brunox epoxy rust converter, and I think that Durapox is awesome primer . Cheers .

[@BSAPowerSet]

Thanks for the interest, comment and suggestions. I haven't heard of either so will bear that in mind for the other four parts that will require the same treatment. Cheers.

[@stewy62]

Around the houses but a very nice finish in the end !

[@BSAPowerSet]

Thanks Stew - not quite there yet but at least I’m confident we can achieve the desired flamboyant effect.

[@martinowl]

How frustrating, when you almost get a task finished, with the result you want & then the splatter totally deflates your effort.

[@BSAPowerSet]

Indeed Martin. The good news is that there’s not much prep involved before the base coat goes on for another attempt. So 2 forward but only 1 back this time rather than 3 when I had to take back to metal again.

[@p--n]

Paint stripper has been neutered.

[@BSAPowerSet]

Indeed Paul but at least you can still get the good old fashioned stuff online - for the moment. God the fumes - it was great! Thanks for the interest.

[@p--n]

@@BSAPowerSet Even Nitromores had to alter their formula in 2009 when the EU banned methylene chloride.

[@BSAPowerSet]

@@p--n I didn't know that Paul; however, the Nitromors that I secured was infinitely better than the Paint Predator stuff. Thanks for the info.