BUDGET 350 Chevy - How to degree your camshaft - Do you need to?? More money saving tips

[@nobleeffort2.4]

I've learned more on this channel in the last 4 hours than I learned anywhere else in the last 5 years about engines

[@goldsgarage8236]

Well that is a very nice compliment Noble. Thanks so much for watching and commenting, that is inspiration to keep digging, lots more content to come. AG

[@jamessenos1396]

Thank you Allan … Your message of the importance of learning is ESSENTIAL to helping DIY folks out there to truly gain a much greater and positive experience! Very well done 👍🏻👍🏻

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks as always Jimmy! AG

[@alexvendrig9205]

the oil screen is a great tip- along with all of your other tips-thanks for sharing

[@goldsgarage8236]

thanks Alex for your support as always! AG

[@jasonpaine9546]

Some of best most detailed videos on how to build an engine!! Thanks for sharing you years of knowledge!

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the nice compliment Jason, glad you found it helpful. AG

[@kenjohnson3412]

Good job! Very helpful. Top line camera work!

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for your comment Ken. Glad you enjoyed it. AG

[@leonardfoster6252]

Allan, you make it harder than it needs to be... You are right, find top dead center first to the degree wheel. I have a tool that has two type of solid lifters that fits in the lifter bore. One is for a flat tappet cam and the other for a roller cam. Dial indicator fits in the top of them and is done in number one intake lifter bore. Turn engine over until it is on the heel of cam, rotate engine to highest lift and set dial indicator on 0, than turn engine until dial indicator reads .050" than write down the number on degree wheel, than go down .050" on the other side of love and write it down, add the two numbers together and divide by two and that's what lobe center the cam is installed on... Good job Allan, as long as it works buddy... I pump oil to every rocker arm before starting the engine. I don't work on many stock engines anymore, mostly race engine that make alot of HP, BBC and sbc...

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the input Leonard. Looks like you are working from the top of the lobe and I am working from the bottom. As long as we both get to the same place. I always prime the engine too, I will try to get it on camera. AG

[@danapike3152]

Thanks Allan i think this one of the best vidios out there on degreeing a cam shaft. Its the way you use drawings to help a person understand. When i first went to marine school for marine engineering my instructor said its when you understand it you as cant memorize all that information keep up the good information Allen.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the very nice compliment Dana. Motivation for me. AG

[@mtbmaverik5826]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge, not many have the opportunity to learn about engine building directly from someone that's willing to teach them what they know. Last year i built up a spare 305 Chevy that i put together mostly by learning (and gaining confidence) from other videos here on KZbin. I'm planning to build a 7k rpm capable 350 now... but i'm looking forward to any more content from you, thanks again!!

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the comment Maverik. I am happy to share, let me know if you have any questions. AG

[@HeadFlowInc]

HEI is an excellent ignition/distributor once it receives a “Performance” advance curve and added mechanical stop for the mechanical advance. The stock “Heavy” mechanical advance springs are way to slow advancing the mechanical timing. ***Not having a positive stop for the mechanical advance will result in unwanted timing advance with engine rpms above 4800-5300+ due to “Spring stretch” being the only limiting factor fighting centrifugal force. JD

[@yurimodin7333]

I've seen alot of guys will put a physical stop where they want final timing and then use a real light set of springs to get that advance in there ASAP for some real snap.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks HeadFlow for sharing your knowledge and experience. Your input is always appreciated. AG

[@zAvAvAz]

awesome Allan.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks Dennis. AG

[@rsmith3033]

for a stock 400” 2 bolt sbc what rpm should be max ? i also have a 1968 350” 4 bolt i have turned up higher but i dont want to loose either one. thank you for all the info. you give us

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the question, but it is a bit tricky to answer without knowing its condition, camshaft and valve springs spec's etc. For a 350 with a stock cast iron crankshaft 6000RPM should be safe if everything else is right. A 400 has the same piston speed at 5600RPM. If the valve springs are good and don't float the valves then you could go higher. For example our 602 GM circle track crate engine which is the same as a ZZ4, 350cu.in. has a cast iron crank and hydraulic cam with valve springs 80lb. on the seat and 200lb. open. We have revved it 6200RPM for hundreds of laps on a 1/2 mile track. Even though the power is dropping off, we need the torque in the corners. Here is another reference point, I am going to do a video about Waddell Wilson's 1975 NASCAR 350 engine. It went over 7000RPM for 500 miles with GM rods and crank, push rods, TRW pistons, 150/325lb valve spring pressure. If you are building a street engine, my suggestion would be to use a camshaft that makes good low end power and torque so you don't need to rev higher. RPM is what kills engines. Hope this helps. AG

[@jacquelinechellis4036]

Pre screen is good tip. Do you ever groove lifter bores to help cam lobes get more oil?

[@goldsgarage8236]

No, I have never done this. It might help lube the cam, but will also bleed off some oil pressure. I was contemplating doing this in my last BBC build, then I went to a roller cam instead. AG

[@hardtail-gy8dk]

I think i followed the dyno results and changing 4 degrees didn’t affect power much, my question is does it affect vacuum, have a big cam where adjusting timing might prevent buying more equipment if power loss is minor

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good question, vacuum, or lack of it is a function of overlap. (the time in crankshaft degrees that the intake and exhaust valve is open together) . Advancing or retarding the cam changes where that occurs but does not change the amount, so advancing the cam should have minimal or no effect on vacuum.AG

[@majoraslayer64]

I have a very basic, stupid question: what's the purpose of doing this? From the perspective of what I'm working on, swapping a camshaft, I had planned on finding TDC with the heads on by feeling the #1 spark plug hole for exhaust stroke and stopping with the timing mark at 0 degrees. This will allow me to keep track of where TDC is as long as I don't rotate the engine during the rest of the process. Then I'm pulling my lifter setup, camshaft and heads (I'm changing my head gasket and upgrading my cam at the same time). With the heads reinstalled, the engine confirmed at TDC (I should be able to confirm the timing mark on the balancer was correct while the heads are off), then shouldn't the position of the camshaft be pretty obvious in relation to everything? The cam timing gear is keyed for installing on the cam and has a mark on it to line up with the crankshaft gear when reinstalling the timing chain. I'm not trying to argue against this process, I'm just trying to understand what it is.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good question Major. rotate your crankshaft until the dot on the crankshaft timing gear is at the very top 12:00 o'clock position. #1 piston will now be at TDC, trust me!. Install the camshaft timing gear until the dot on the camshaft timing gear lines up with the dot on the crankshaft timing gear when it is at the top. You are good to go. After you have the camshaft gear bolts tight, rotate it again just to be sure you got it right. Leave it in that position when you put the cover on. When you install your balancer the timing mark will line up and it will be at #1 firing. Hope this helps. Before you start the engine, you can confirm firing by putting your thumb in the spark plug hole. when you feel compression, you are at #1 firing. AG

[@majoraslayer64]

@@goldsgarage8236 you're the best, thanks for the info!

[@garagegladiator]

Hi. Great Video. Can you provide a link for the Distributor you purchased on Amazon.. I am Canadian as well. Thanks..

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks GG. Go to Amazon. Search Bravex Super High Performance Chevy/GM. it will come up. AG

[@shane-222]

Typically lobe centreline is defined as the middle point at 0.050” tappet lift. Opening and closing ramps aren’t always symmetrical. Measuring centre at 0.200” is a crapshoot.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the info Shane.AG

[@gotta56forme]

I've been reading up on degree'ing a camshaft and more interestingly, how to optimize a chosen camshaft to a build. Question for you... have you heard of or tried/used a technique I read about in a MotorTrend(?) article this morning that (paraphrasing) has you do a cranking cylinder pressure test during mockup (cyl head & starter needed) where you advance or retard the cam shaft by two degree increments until you find the highest cranking cylinder pressure? I found it an interesting read. Obviously, clearances like valve to piston need to be considered before undertaking the exercise. Thanks for the vids, I've been enjoying them.

[@goldsgarage8236]

That is interesting Scott. I have a Cloyes adjustable timing gear set up so I might just try that. Advancing the cam closes the intake valve sooner so it will usually increase cylinder pressure. AG

[@matsblom7314]

Hi My name is Mats I wonder I have a 1969 impala 427 block 2 bolt main borded .30 over I planned to put it in a 1969 corvette roadster stick shift car ( the car have an old 1974 350 truck engine) The problem I see the 1969 427 block have a startmotor whole repair it will not be possible put all trans bolt in Is it worth spend money on it ?

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the question Matts. Based on the limited information I think it would be worth using. There are 6 bolts, one missing should probably not hurt. AG

[@matsblom7314]

@@goldsgarage8236 Yes ,,What worried me is the startmotor bolts the outer bolt whole is repared The transmission bolt will probably be fine with 5 bolt but the startmotor I wonder how this damage could happen? Could it been motor back fired when cranking it over trying to start it ??? I just do not want it happen again thats all When i took the motor apart there was a burned whole in 1 piston at the Top And another piston was little bit melted disformed The motor was totally stock from a 1969 Impala Thank YOU for reply I understand it can be hard answer But have you seen whole in piston TOP before ?

[@Cultofpersonality09129]

Thanks!

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks you for watching and commenting Willy. AG

[@jackhandee1660]

What is part number of HEI ON Amazon thanks

[@goldsgarage8236]

Can't find a part #, on amazon, just type BRAVEX super high performance. it should come up. AG

[@samrothstein9716]

He was 24 years old when he started recording and 74 when he finished.

[@mediumjumbo7484]

What's the power range on that Crower cam ? What do you 2 gents think of the Isky 264 Mega cam ? It's also a circle track cam ,but with much less duration. 214° @ .050 .

[@hackertheslacker]

I’ve ran the Isky 270 mega for years in a daily driven / commuter 350 sbc th350 2000 stall, 3:55 rear gear 72 nova. I would run a 264 or the 270 again.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for responding to this question for me Hacker. AG

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the question Medium. I couldn't find that info on the cam card so I will ask Mike to respond to this as he did all the research on the selection. AG

[@blakenorman4822]

I dont see the 104 degree center line on your cam card you showed

[@tiitsaul9036]

Tha ks for the content. A quick suggestion: your audio is below average. You start off sentence loud and clear, but soon volume starts drooping. I recommend applying "auto levels" in your camera or editing software.

[@goldsgarage8236]

Thanks for the input. I will work on improving the audio. AG

[@TomSmith-cv8hk]

@TomSmith-cv8hk 0 seconds ago Even getting intake lift at TDC off the cam supplier and checking it after setting yup your TDC pointer is better than doing nothing

[@goldsgarage8236]

Good point Tom. At least you will know that you have the cam you though you have. AG